Woodinblack

Well, I got a mail about it from Line6 today. It certainly fixes one of my main issues with the Stomp - the lack of buttons. Probably don't need it because I have the FX, but might be something that would be useful for the stick. Interesting to see what the price is. Also it has bumped up the number of blocks to 8 - edit £679 at gak - a bit rich but presumably street price will go down.

Would have to have black metal pickup surrounds

Not quite - my last car was gunmetal grey, and I liked that colour. better on a car than a bass though IMO. You could be right about the wood. Yep, its got to be special (to the owner - sod everyone else). When the sunlight is in the right place (and present) in my office it lands on the shuker and catches my eye (pretty easy, it is right next to where I work) and I have a 'wow' moment.

My shuker has two J width (but they are delano humbuckers) pickups and no scoop when both are on with an active blend (in fact, a john east like mentioned earlier), however, it doesn't have a passive mode to compare it too so who knows if it would have it anyway.

Yes, both white and black are good. Other colours could be too but that is like a non-colour, like grey cars a few years ago which I noticed were a thing as a few years ago my work carpark was 7 grey cars and one bluey off grey. I find colour is more important the more expensive something is. Well, to a point, if my other half doesn't like the colour of a bass it doesn't get to live in the living room!

Cant say i am surprised in that colour, doesn't really have mass market appeal like white or black

Squier need to get their naming sorted - fender only offered one 5 string in the 70s and it wasn't like that! I liked having that option (the S1 switch) on the jazz when you just needed a bit more.

Well, yes I worked it out just fine but what is the point providing a manual with a bass that contains no information about that bass? It would be better to have not provided anything as you are just wasting peoples time, it is effectively negative documentation.

I find it a very useful tool, and what I use for most things like that. It has a few little hangups, and it takes a bit of time to get round the keyboard (which is easier on a full keyboard than a laptop), but for what it does it is well worth it for me.

True, although that can be said for many things, how can I prove my ibanez headstock split on its own and I didn't just heat it up and put a chisel in it? Luckily I didn't. However, in this case there is glue on the threads. OK it is possible the user did that afterwards but unlikely. - some times you just have to go on likelyhood.

Those are. I had commented before about their user manuals. The user manual for the EHB contains information on a lot of bridge and control adjustment, none of which exists on the EHB. It doesn't tell you how to adjust its bridge. With humbuckers, the change is different in that you already have two coils connected already, so any other effect is going to be lesser. Its not an issue but it isn't something that can be corrected by an EQ in that although it is a bit of a mid scoop, it isn't reqlly an eq issue. And also only exists at full volume, any change of the volume control will affect it.

I changed my knobs to metal ones, and it only sounded 15% better, and they were east knobs. Mind you I have the nordstrand pickups which are better. I have never been much of a fan of the BH type pickups on ibanezes, regardless of the preamp. In fact none of the licensed barts have worked for me (the actual original barts though are a different matter).

It is indeed. I have had other jazzes that didn't have that issue though. Not fender ones. Most ibanez preamps that I have dealt with have a passive blend. A bit poor of them really, although most of them are pretty obvious. Unless you got it with no wires! I am sure most are on the internet somewhere even if they don't come from ibanez. And to be honest, ibanezes documentation is pretty poor at the best of times.

If the truss rods don't work without carbon rods (which would be odd as most people don't have them on basses), they shouldn't come without them. I wouldn't pay a manufacturer to get another neck if the neck failed due to their issues in the first place, however much I loved the bass! No, clearly not, just a lot less value than it had.

There have been a few more in this thread, but generally fairly good if you don't have to try and get something fixed.

I don't think it will split now. From mine and the ones I have seen, they have split just after purchase / manufacture, so maybe part of the drying out process, or manufacturing defect. So if it is going to break, it breaks pretty early, otherwise it is fine. I do notice that the construction of my replacement neck is different to the original, or at least the woods are (and the new neck is older). Never had that but it would still be a good plan for me to see if I got bored with them! Will have a read when I get the chance - I don't go there often.

It is not a fixed value here, like two perfect waves or a phase difference in a mathematical model. The 2 coils at full volume are in parallel and thus interacting with each other (as well as the strings), and are being presented with different amplitudes and phases of the same frequencies. If you buffer the individual coils, you remove this interaction - all you have is the two waveforms mixed together. This is what I assumed caused the mid scoop - and I know it well, it was quite strong on the geddy jazz I had, but none of my ibanezes and not on my aerodyne. It should be apparent on any active preamp that has individual pickup buffering as well as a standard passive mode (I am not sure if that is how it is done on those pickups).

seems not quite the same, seems to have split on the laminations. but the replacement is fine, so I don't think it is something that is going to happen to it again, I do check from time to time, and there are quite a lot out there. I am not that worried. It has to be said I do have a few other basses, although I am down to my lowest Ibanez count in a long time! It must admit to not knowing much about them, just have one in the Shuker.

The r/c circuit doesn't have much added by the R given there is also an L and a R already in the circuit and quite a complex filter network presented by the lead. but as I said I don't believe the east preamp has much of a passive filter network that would brighten the signal (if any). I presume they didn't want to drill holes in the ehbs. A little puzzled though as to why you would buy a preamp like that for an ehb that already has something very similar. Also why you would spend that much on a preamp and comment on how much better it sounded when it was off!

A resistor wouldn't dull them. It wouldn't brighten them either. Maybe it is what they had so why they installed it I wouldn't replace the ehb pre with the east pre either, it's pretty good on its own - I have an east in my Shuker, only problem going between them is the knobs are the other way round. maybe I could get an east for my SR5005 - not many companies do a 6 knob one though

I don't think all east pickups do that, and obviously they cant in passive. However, maybe they do have some additional resistors between the output and the mixing, which might prevent the scoop.

Mine wasn't a roasted neck though, it is an EHB1505, and it had the same. I think it is a risk with the design, although 3 isn't a huge amount. Still, my replacement has been great and I wouldn't want to be without it! - I posted on that thread, possibly being my 3rd post on that forum!