Woodinblack

I am not sure of any specific bass class a amp, and both class a amps I have here are fairly low power. I am fully aware what the class of amps is thanks, I was clarifying a confusion above that class a/b has anything to do with being a transistor amp vs a valve amp. The class a amp I have is a hifi amp, and I have a small guitar one too (that I haven't used for a long time) Of course it wouldn't surprise me? but in the context of bass amps that we are talking about and specifically the tc rh amps, one of their weaknesses was considered their power supply.

I would have thought having a helix makes it much easier to play in a covers band. Not saying whether you want to or not, but helixes are pretty common in covers.

Valve what? Class A/B what? I mean a class A/B mosfet is going to be very similar to an all valve (apart from maybe one with a valve power supply regulation too, which is less common). A class A amplifier is going to always sound better than a class B or a class A/B regardless of power delivery. A class A mosfet will clearly sound better than a class B valve and when you are overdriving they will both sound better than a transistor (regardless of class). When you are not overdriving they are basically down to the power supply. Often class D (which is very different) is going to fail because of a lack of power supply. So a class D with a big power supply (of the sort of the sort of power of any class A) will probably be very good, but you don't get them really in small heads (as its kind of not really the point).

Ah, suppose I am better off in the way I didn't get to start again!

So you are left without part of a pa, or someone that comes in to replace that person has to buy that bit of the PA? I don't trust people in the group I am in to turn up with a strap for their guitar half the time, let alone part of the PA!

Yep, that is where we are. One in every 10 or so gigs that we do is on a truck or in a place that has a PA, the rest of the time it is my PA. The PA does the vocals / sax and a bit of the other instruments. My bass goes through my amp, the guitar goes through its amp (and I have tried to put it through in ears but he doesn't get on with them the one time he tried). We don't currently have any monitors because the singers one died, I use in ears, as does the drummer, so I am not buying one, and no-one else has bothered to buy one so obviously they don't care either. I was going to buy a sub before lockdown, but obviously we haven't played since march so I haven't (and I didn't have a way of transporting it, or storing it). Singer wears an in ear on one ear sometimes, but he is an 'in audience' guy so he needs the interaction.

Indeed, but that is just terms. You can't use the pickups without power, so the pickup assembly is active. The board in the picture is just a set of plugs to get power to the required pickups and the output to the plug, so the loom itself is passive. Advantage of that is you can use very small windings or small magnets which would normally produce too low an output as it is being buffered at source.

None of our bands have been able to practice since march, what is different then?

Depends if the tubes are working as class a or class b. Tricky to do a class d valve, but not impossible

Many low voltage effects pedals that use a tube use it in cold cathode format which means there is no glow from the valve. As any fool knows, the sound of a valve that doesn't have an orange glow is nowhere near as nice as the sound of a valve that has an orange glow, so they tend to put an orange LED underneath it to make the sound right

I am a fan of them, have them on one of my basses. A bit more expensive though Bass goes boom!

I think these things are more noticable now seeing as youtube (after spending years saying they would never charge) have come up with a premium service, and they need to persuade people to use it, I guess the easiest way is to just fosters them off enough with the free one.

I just skip those bits, although you don't really get that in the actual lessons. Even in those there can be a lot of waffle though, but skipping is easy enough. And its just enthusiasm, i mean he is genuinely enthusiastic and when you meet him, he is just the same so it is not a put on thing. I can understand why people find it irritating, but I have learned more from his videos than pretty well anything, so I am happy to cut him as much slack as it needs.

All fairly lightweight considering, wouldn't call any of those 'featherwieght', so yes, it is true.

I would be quite keen on trying the RM500s (or whatever power), but in reality, I will have probably forgotten all about it by the time we are gigging again.

Yes, you have missed a on that socket, just under what you have labelled as A, there is a real a. If I was to guess I would say the one you labelled as a is just the body for earthing, the one under it was the tip, c was the sleeve and b was the tip, but that would be a guess and I would never take a guess at that before wiring, I would read its documentation or buzz it out with a meter. and yes, doesn't look like there is a preamp but again, EMGs documentation is very detailed so look there

Actually slightly better! It does sound good actually, looks like it would be all clean and hifi sounding, but it isn't, those 'single coils' are humbuckers and they sound great. All the way up to the 26th fret.

Im not blaming the amp, it is just a 100w amp, and the reason people say about 'valve watts' is that once a valve amp runs out of steam it compresses and distorts with even harmonics which are musically pleasant, so people are happy with that. a transistor based solid state A/B type will distort with odd harmoncs which aren't musically pleasant so people don't do it, so you get this idea of valves being louder, just that valves are more 'musical' when overdriven. A class D will run out of power supply capability before anything else, so yes, the low end will go first because it is the bit which requires most power. If I was going to use the CTM for pub gigs without PA support and wanting to not overdrive, I could go for a CTM300, but that would involve having someone to carry it for me, and I suspect that isn't going to happen!

I have a tc450 and a Ashdown CTM (also another ashdown A/b in a case I have only played live once). The CTM sounds better for rock stuff, but as a 100w amp it is hard to make a clean sound at volume. If you like the tubey compressed sound it would certainly be a winner. It also is very heavy and until I changed car recently it was too much of a faff getting it into a car and into a pub, so the 450 does most gigs with me and all practices. Also the full time tuner on it is handy for giving the guitarist a clue as to what key we are in If I was prepared to carry more, or didn't have to carry the PA, or had some bandmates who were prepared to actually help with stuff, then maybe I would use the CTM more. And bigger speakers of course, Its too wide to go frontwards across a 12" speaker cab!

Ah, the one I like to call "The one just to the right of my shoulder at this very second"

So do think that that guy (whoever he is) would be worse playing something else? I have actually never seen an F Bass in a shop. Like an actual shop that I have been to, even the big ones. I could afford one, I had never even thought about it. They look nice, but I have never had a chance to try one and at that money it is very unlikely I would get one. if I had that money to spend on a bass I would be heading to the Ritter page! Oh one of the best guitars I have played was a PRS (513?), it was a lovely thing. I have also played less lovely ones. And I have an SE (which is great although always seemed muted on the top string).

Ooh, which green uberhorn was that?

I don't bother, I just balance it on the seat in front of me.

Frankly when dealing with Bax, that is so far better than anything they did I would be delighted with it - imagine, them actually responding to something!

Under the sales of goods act, the items has to last as long as would be reasonable for it to last (which as you say, is about 6 years), but the supplier is only responsible for it for the first year, or for items that failed straight away (which obviously you can't prove it did as you didn't try it). For things that have failed beyond that period, it is then the manufacturers problem. So GG have no responsibility to replace it, it is down to GK to do that.