Woodinblack

Yep, that is where we are. One in every 10 or so gigs that we do is on a truck or in a place that has a PA, the rest of the time it is my PA. The PA does the vocals / sax and a bit of the other instruments. My bass goes through my amp, the guitar goes through its amp (and I have tried to put it through in ears but he doesn't get on with them the one time he tried). We don't currently have any monitors because the singers one died, I use in ears, as does the drummer, so I am not buying one, and no-one else has bothered to buy one so obviously they don't care either. I was going to buy a sub before lockdown, but obviously we haven't played since march so I haven't (and I didn't have a way of transporting it, or storing it). Singer wears an in ear on one ear sometimes, but he is an 'in audience' guy so he needs the interaction.

Indeed, but that is just terms. You can't use the pickups without power, so the pickup assembly is active. The board in the picture is just a set of plugs to get power to the required pickups and the output to the plug, so the loom itself is passive. Advantage of that is you can use very small windings or small magnets which would normally produce too low an output as it is being buffered at source.

None of our bands have been able to practice since march, what is different then?

Depends if the tubes are working as class a or class b. Tricky to do a class d valve, but not impossible

Many low voltage effects pedals that use a tube use it in cold cathode format which means there is no glow from the valve. As any fool knows, the sound of a valve that doesn't have an orange glow is nowhere near as nice as the sound of a valve that has an orange glow, so they tend to put an orange LED underneath it to make the sound right

I am a fan of them, have them on one of my basses. A bit more expensive though Bass goes boom!

I think these things are more noticable now seeing as youtube (after spending years saying they would never charge) have come up with a premium service, and they need to persuade people to use it, I guess the easiest way is to just fosters them off enough with the free one.

I just skip those bits, although you don't really get that in the actual lessons. Even in those there can be a lot of waffle though, but skipping is easy enough. And its just enthusiasm, i mean he is genuinely enthusiastic and when you meet him, he is just the same so it is not a put on thing. I can understand why people find it irritating, but I have learned more from his videos than pretty well anything, so I am happy to cut him as much slack as it needs.

All fairly lightweight considering, wouldn't call any of those 'featherwieght', so yes, it is true.

I would be quite keen on trying the RM500s (or whatever power), but in reality, I will have probably forgotten all about it by the time we are gigging again.

Yes, you have missed a on that socket, just under what you have labelled as A, there is a real a. If I was to guess I would say the one you labelled as a is just the body for earthing, the one under it was the tip, c was the sleeve and b was the tip, but that would be a guess and I would never take a guess at that before wiring, I would read its documentation or buzz it out with a meter. and yes, doesn't look like there is a preamp but again, EMGs documentation is very detailed so look there

Actually slightly better! It does sound good actually, looks like it would be all clean and hifi sounding, but it isn't, those 'single coils' are humbuckers and they sound great. All the way up to the 26th fret.

Im not blaming the amp, it is just a 100w amp, and the reason people say about 'valve watts' is that once a valve amp runs out of steam it compresses and distorts with even harmonics which are musically pleasant, so people are happy with that. a transistor based solid state A/B type will distort with odd harmoncs which aren't musically pleasant so people don't do it, so you get this idea of valves being louder, just that valves are more 'musical' when overdriven. A class D will run out of power supply capability before anything else, so yes, the low end will go first because it is the bit which requires most power. If I was going to use the CTM for pub gigs without PA support and wanting to not overdrive, I could go for a CTM300, but that would involve having someone to carry it for me, and I suspect that isn't going to happen!

I have a tc450 and a Ashdown CTM (also another ashdown A/b in a case I have only played live once). The CTM sounds better for rock stuff, but as a 100w amp it is hard to make a clean sound at volume. If you like the tubey compressed sound it would certainly be a winner. It also is very heavy and until I changed car recently it was too much of a faff getting it into a car and into a pub, so the 450 does most gigs with me and all practices. Also the full time tuner on it is handy for giving the guitarist a clue as to what key we are in If I was prepared to carry more, or didn't have to carry the PA, or had some bandmates who were prepared to actually help with stuff, then maybe I would use the CTM more. And bigger speakers of course, Its too wide to go frontwards across a 12" speaker cab!

Ah, the one I like to call "The one just to the right of my shoulder at this very second"

So do think that that guy (whoever he is) would be worse playing something else? I have actually never seen an F Bass in a shop. Like an actual shop that I have been to, even the big ones. I could afford one, I had never even thought about it. They look nice, but I have never had a chance to try one and at that money it is very unlikely I would get one. if I had that money to spend on a bass I would be heading to the Ritter page! Oh one of the best guitars I have played was a PRS (513?), it was a lovely thing. I have also played less lovely ones. And I have an SE (which is great although always seemed muted on the top string).

Ooh, which green uberhorn was that?

I don't bother, I just balance it on the seat in front of me.

Frankly when dealing with Bax, that is so far better than anything they did I would be delighted with it - imagine, them actually responding to something!

Under the sales of goods act, the items has to last as long as would be reasonable for it to last (which as you say, is about 6 years), but the supplier is only responsible for it for the first year, or for items that failed straight away (which obviously you can't prove it did as you didn't try it). For things that have failed beyond that period, it is then the manufacturers problem. So GG have no responsibility to replace it, it is down to GK to do that.

I got a donner AB-Y switch the other day. Was going to build something but the cost came out about the same!

Fender reported that this year is their highest number of guitar sales ever. Must still be some interest

Yes, I like those cables. I have a planet waves cable with one, and I like the connector (not the cable). So I just ordered a pack of 10 of those

Ooh that is interesting - how do you get that? Hadn't heard of that

Everyone knows brown sounds warmer