Woodinblack

I am guessing that this policy is created by someone who thinks like you and doesn't understand why someone like me just won't do it, which is probably why when making a sales decision it is important to consider that not everyone is like you. The thing is - I don't mind asking how much something is, assuming someone is there, which is not always the case. When I have a look round I want to see if there is anything in the price bracket I am looking for that is interesting. I have no interest in engaging or finding a salesman just to find out that first step. Say I wanted a jazz bass. I go into PMT, there is a wall of maybe 10-12 jazz basses, from squiers right up to some custom shop thing. I would look at that, and I want to see what of those basses I should be being tempted by. Say If I have £800 to spend, I want to know what is up to £800, but maybe there is something really nice at £900, maybe I would be ok with that too, a salesman can't know that. Say I can afford all of them. Some of them are nicer than others, some of them look better than others, some are cheaper than others, some look horrible but play well. He could tell me the prices of those basses, but there is no way I will remember them. So yes, I will still go there for something I already know the price of and have already decided on to try and buy, but it completely stops the idea of an impulse purchase. Its just not practical, that is why shopping online is such a joy, you get to know the price. People always say the internet killed the high street, but that is rubbish. The high street killed the high street, it was just it had nothing to be compared against until the internet came along.

I have no idea who he is or know much about Mars Volta, but that is a very horrible thing to happen for his family etc, hope he gets better.

As tempting as it is to go in and ask the price of everyone in turn, I haven't done that. I went in at one point, I was after a yamaha reface, and they had them, I played them, and decided i wanted the yamaha reface DX, rather than the YC I went to look at. But they had no prices on them, so I didn't buy one, I assumed they would be more expensive. When I got home I looked on the net, and it turned out PMT were cheaper than anyone else for the DX by about a fiver. I knew the sort of price these things went for, if the price had been on it on the shop I would have bought it, but as I was on the net anyway, I had a look on ebay and there was a good condition one £50 cheaper, so I got that.

Mine has the 'nappy' bit at the bottom, where there is a bit that goes underneath to keep it on. I also don't have the standard feet. I have that on my speakers and thought it was worth having. Very happy with it, and them.

No cross purposes - a bass and treble dial don't have a centre frequency, a bass control goes from some frequency to zero, and a treble goes from some frequency to the highest the amplifier can do (or the highest you can hear) - there is no 'centre' to that. If you have a parametric control, or mid control, it has a centre frequency, which is the centre of the range of frequencies above and below where the largest effect has. If you write a frequency on a bass or treble control you have made an arbitrary decision what the frequency is and how you measure it. For instance if it is a bass control, maybe it starts at say 600Hz, you certainly can't hear that, but the lower it gets the more noticable it gets. So do you call it 600Hz where you can't here it, but it actually starts, or do you call it 400 by which time it is down 3dB (so its half of what it was), or do you say it is 200Hz by the time it is 10dB down (like really reduced), or maybe at 100 by the time it is 20db down? There is almost nothing of it then. So you make a decision and say 'we are going to call this 400Hz, which is the point that the output has been reduced by half', and that is what the bottom and top knobs do on an amplifier.

That is exactly the method I use. I don't ask, so their policy means it isn't worth looking. I have told them, they ignored it, that is their choice. If I a looking at a wall of basses, one of the important thing for me is the price of them. WIthout that, they become less interesting.

A low pass and high pass filter can't have a 'centre' frequency, they are from a frequency down or up. In common discussion of filters we tend to use a frequency when some effect occurs, so often the frequncy is quoted when the signal is changed by 3dB. So for that chart on that link, if the numbers are accurate they seem to both cross the 3dB range at 600Hz, and also would appear to be around 5dB per octave.

Never seen one in the real world. The only place that sells rics that I have seen is in PMT. And with their policies of not putting prices on anything, it kind of kills interest for me.

Except under current rules you can't post offers on the thread. Why would anyone want to do this? You can already make an offer to someone selling something

Well, yes I could do, but seeing as how ibanez put the specs on their website, where would be the need? Like this: https://www.ibanez.com/usa/products/detail/sr1705b_1p_02.html I must admit I don't really use the centre frequencies much on my ibbys live. In fact I rarely use the tone at all, except the 2605 is a bit harsh and I knock a bit of treble off with that. It is very unusual that I would use a tone control on a bass.

You can get shaller copies cheap too. The dunlops are the same prices as the shaller.

ok, so that is the key difference to stop the tendency of a nut to turn. Seems as it is longer now, so odd they don't include a couple of washers which would be a bit better. Although a grub screw on a thread might damage it. All in one seems a downside, as every screw I have replaced in a bass was a different size!

I have a combination of Shallers and Dunlops, after an ACG came with a dunlop. Not ideal situation really! I like the dunlops in that you can still use a normal strap, but went to put some on the latest ibanez, and the dunlop screw wouldn't fit. I don't know what the difference in security is between the Shaller and the S's.

They were ok, its hard to remember, it wasn't a favourite bass of mine. I don't have a bart issue specifically. The Barts on the SR5005 are very good pickups, easily the match for the nords on my 1605 and better than the ones on my 2605 (which is odd as they are exactly the same). But they aren't the same barts as were fitted to other things. But the ones on the 805 were not nice at all, they were 'stand at the back and dont make a fuss' sort of pickups. One of the small things I managed to get from that video between his attempts at jokes was him saying that it was very much a 'stand at the bank and blend in' sort of tone. I can get a fender if I wanted that

Wow - that guy is painful to listen to. The bass sounds ok, but a bit barty for me, at least that answers the 'should I save myself a few (hundred) quid and get the barts instead of the nords' question fairly well. No, get the nords. Or maybe get the bart one and stick some nords in it

I finally got round to getting a Roksolid cover for my speaker, so now it is coming to gigs with me, and it is doing well. For some reason the last gig I have had to turn my volume down as it was too loud.

It went down to 195 then 178 just for the one day, then the next morning it was at 228.

I got very tempted when they went back down to £178 last week, then it occurred to me I had a couple of amplifiers, the TC450 has never let me down so I don't really need a spare, and if I got one it would probably just stay in its box. Excellent price though!

Would have to try it to see, it certainly looks good, but I would tend to do my editing on the computer mostly as I want the unit to be on the floor, and I am too old to be bending down all the time! I am sure it is good, but I think it is a different market at the moment. Or maybe the same market, but a different end of it.

What are you supposed to do with a touch screen, take your shoes off? 😀

If you read the thread you will see that the keyboard doesn't have pitch bend or modulation wheels

How do you vary the pitch or mod changes - are they pressure sensitive so you more you press them the more mod / pitch you get?