Woodinblack

It won't work on an iPad

I was really careful when I ordered to make sure it all came from the UK, but the corners turned out to be china. They left china on the 18th, they are not here yet. Don't want to do the corner shaping until I know the curve of the corners. I suppose I could paint the front! - Ok, well, thought I would add a bit of paint as I had a bit of time..

My felt is grey, and now all in. And the box is glued all the way round, and the crossover is in. I am lacking the corners (that should have been here last week), and when I have those I will shape the edges. And paint.

Gary Numan. But that is because i was just at the gig.

The problem is, if you are talking about the L2000 circuit, R7 is the part that controls the high frequency boost option, whcih is purely on active. For me, the bass it too hot anyway, and needs taking down a peg or two, but before the active section, as you don't want the volume level of the active and passive to be different.

That is what I have, although it was a lot cheaper than £200, and the frets are fine. It has the two battery compartments even though 1 was wired, and it was also wired wrong, so it didn't disconnect the battery when you unplugged it! But to be honest, it plays fine, I have gigged it.

Let’s hope not!

anyone know if the wl20/50 work/fit in ibanez SRs?

If only I would be able to get the chance before the weekend!

Yay, and now I have got a fluffy box! I have done the whole of the inside of the bottom part, bottom panel, sides and back. Is there anywhere else that needs to fluff? like the bottom of the middle strut or part of the top?

Well mine is like this currently: The sides are all on and glued, the top and the bottom aren't connected as yet, just there to make sure everything is square (it wasn't earlier, seems to have straightened up!) I have everything now apart from the corners and the grill, so enough to get on with for the moment. I will glue the bottom on tomorrow and leave the top for a bit later.

The tone controls on the L2x00 are entirely passive, (the active part is just a buffer), so they are cut only.

Well, our drummer is to loud and in general the evening would end by him getting in his car calling us all ****s and speeding off, but that is just him in a good mood!

Seems a bit big from my POV, maybe it is just a scale thing. and clearly its not very deep, so that is good. Our needs are all different. I couldn't imagine playing a 6 piece in most of the places we play!

I must admit, looking at the size of that, I am wondering why not get the LT? It wouldn't have been much difference in price, and although less deep it is probably the same width but without needing the pedalboard. For me the problem with the stomp is the switches, as in general I use my HX like an effects pedal, one patch with a set of 6 effects that are switched on and off depending on what I am playing. The stomp doesn't have enough switches and once you stick that box on the side of it it is too big (and you have to remember what the switches are). Well, and the number of blocks is not good for me to use it in the way I use the HX.

I must admit I looked again and was thinking this was odd. You can get it between £80 and £500, and it looks interesting, although the shaping of the electronics cavity looks a bit agricultural! https://www.dhgate.com/product/eagle-butterfly-custom-shop-five-stringed/494885400.html?skuid=642859093231165442#s1-1-1;searl|2052235916

Welcome to a single subject based forum, where every thread comes up every two months. the easiest way to deal with that is to ignore them and go to a recurring thread you are interested in. there are always going to be people who don't understand why people like things they don't and they are always going to go this way, as they are just taste and matters of opinion (well, apart from tortoiseshell pickgaurds of course)

Really not sure what you are saying, or how that affects active basses? One of the problems with the L2000 is that the output is way above almost everything else, but that is no different with active on or off, it's just too hot, which makes switching basses tricky (which I think is what you are saying). I often thought about putting an attenuator in it to reduce that.

So what in the electronics do people have a problem with? Unless there is something very wrong with your equipment it shouldnt' be able to tell the difference between the preamp being on or off (unless it is in treble boost), there should certainly not be a volume boost unless you have poor cables. It is just a buffer (it doesn't even have tone shaping options). I am genuinely puzzled what problem it causes for people

On this point - I am at the point I need to put this in but I notice that your flat goes to teh back of the case, whereas the diagram puts it to the front. Seems it actually clears either way, but which is it supposed to be? Also, the parts list doesn't have the T-Nuts in the handle, just self tapping screws - are they ok and you just wanted to be extra secure or is this recommended?

The vicos one - actually one of 2, but it is also powering some other things, and I think it is too much. The problem with a split power input like that on an isolated supply is that no voltage is perfect, so one of the sides will provide slightly more power than the other, and then at some point if your PSU is already flat out, one side shuts down because it is too hot leaving the other one to do all the work, which doesn't last long. Probably need to run two psus. Yeh, the uk plug comes off as it is only held on one side, a bit of a poor design

I had mine powered with a current doubling lead for a bit but unfortunately my power supply couldn't cope with it on a 3 hour gig, so I have had to go back to its original supply - need to make a different power supply for it.

Well, it's a chunk of wood with a pickup on it, can't go too far wrong really 😀

No it couldn't, it could just be threatened

Don't be silly, that is not how you put a pick guard on!