Woodinblack

No b3 update though Have they? How so? would like to know as I have just bought a hx rather than a stomp

You can alter the order of the patches on the B3n if you want to

Jazz necks are quite different. Especially some of the thinner ones. I don't play 4s any more but if I did I would have no problem playing a jazz whereas a P would be less comfortable. There are a world of other necks, but if you want to stick with the P body, then your choices are limited to P or J necks really (well, fender necks but that is about your choice).

What do you mean by cut corners?

Just stick a jazz neck on it then, maybe that would help you. I never could get on with P basses, the necks are awful.

I used to have a Shure SM58, never really liked it. Tried the Behringer XM8500 (handy thing as a spare) but I now use a TC MP75, and wouldn't want to use anything else. They are quite expensive here, but much cheaper in the states (back when we had an exchange rate). Out of everything I have used, nothing works as well with my voice.

TBH, although I normally play it with 3 (with the same 1-3-2 pattern) which makes it pretty easy, it isn't that much harder with a 1-2-1 once you get into it.

Same here if you mean the bit at 'Were not so different anyway' - the bit at 3:36 on that video ^^

I do love the fan frets and the thinness of the necks. Considering I can't generally cope with wide string spacing, I find the dingwall necks very comfortable and they are very wide.

I had a problem at the gig yesterday with a bad noise problem (that I suspect was something to do with a sound engineer - haven't had it before), so I stripped my pedal board apart trying to get rid of it. In the end I decided to go with a cable straight to the amp which cut it down, but meant for the first time I wasn't wireless. And frankly I didn't enjoy it - constantly having to move the cable out the way to not tread on it! As to the active bass thing, if a system uses a trs to charge itself (which seems a dumb idea), it won't work with the majority of active systems, as that is how they switch on. Or a Gibson darkfire for that matter. I guess because active guitars are less common they do it that way.

I found that too with the Guma.

If it is a tribute band, then yes, it does make sense, or if it is a named band leader, such as you are the backing band for someone else. Not a band I could be in though but probably as well as they wouldn't want me! But yes, as you say, you know the answer, you are just talking to yourself out loud

Oh thats a good idea to have a thread for this. I have an HX effects coming this week, should be interesting!

Thing is, if you are looking to buy something and there is something you don't like about it, walk away. They are not rare items, they come up quite often.

The artecs are pretty cheap and cheerful - I have a SE2 and an SE3, they all work fine (Although I had to send one back to thoman because it was pre-used and not functional!)

Well, I am over 50 and I mentioned going to see Royal Blood who have been going for 5 years now, if that helps.

You might find a general helix thread would be an idea seeing as a lot of the signal flow etc is common to a lot of the devices, and you might miss out on somethings that someone has for a full fat helix that also works on the stomp etc.

Because every block is affected by the blocks before it, think about what each block brings to a sound. For instance if you put a compressor before an autowah, it wouldn’t work well, but the other way round is fine etc

Certainly wouldn't hurt but I couldn't do anything outside to get a sound I wanted.

My truss rod looks like that. Not wishing to teach anyone to suck eggs, but you do know the Maruszczyk truss rod is backwards to other truss rods don’t you?

Love the look of the super J although I like the look of the combustion too

Not really that DIY, I used to be an electronic engineer back in the day before I left for the easier world of software That is true I am impressed with the build quality, apart from that bit, yes. Bad screw placement really. I just measured it with a meter

I would say the obvious thing was not getting on with them at the audition, or seeing something in them you know would be a problem. Or even finding out they are not as good as you thought they were.

Yesterday I took my B3 apart. I had a problem with it recently on gigs. Like this: Effect 1, all buttons work. Effect 2, up / down work, page didn't. Effect 3, Up and Page worked. Also patch select and save didn't work. So I took it apart and checked what was wrong. Didn't find anything but putting it back together I got this: Effect 1, page up and down worked. Effect 2, nothing worked. Effect 3 Page up worked. Now none of the buttons along the top worked apart from tempo! I have a gig tomorrow. So I took it apart again, but this time upstairs, not sitting on the sofa by the nightlight. Found that the circuit board had always had a problem where it was done up too tight and had cracked the circuit board, and eventually one of the tracks that held the buttons failed. By taking it apart I let the rest of the thing flex. So now I soldered those lines together, put it together and everything works, apart from patch down, which is not working because the button is actually broken, but as the patch up and down are replicated by the big buttons, that isn't so much of an issue. However, putting it back together, I remembered this thread and measured the power consumption. At startup it takes 160mA. After it has started it goes to 140mA. Once the led saving goes on it goes to 120mA. Switching of the effects on and off has no increase of current. Plugging a DI in goes up a few mA. However, I couldn't get it to take over 160mA whatever I did. Maybe with USB it might take more, and almost certainly with headphones, I didn't try those, but they aren't normal gigging issues. I am pretty sure it would be happy on 200mA.

Maybe selling might be cheaper, but I didn’t go for the stomp as it didn’t do as many things as the lt for the price difference.