Woodinblack

That wouldn't be that unusual for us - the wooden bit in the bottom middle is the bar, the built in seating is round the right and the double socket is on the side by the door!

Ours was a bit of a faff. Not the gig, the day leading up to it. There is another local group that we get gigs from sometimes, and we send things we can't do for them. Some time ago we almost formed one group, but that didn't work out. When we were in the process, they booked a gig in a place called the White Hart, 10 miles west of here. It went in the calendar. Come the day before the gig, and we are talking that we are doing the gig the following day, and someone says oh I thought they were doing the gig. A bit of a back and forth, and it was them that was supposed to have it, but one didn't want to do it, so we did it. Roll round to now, a gig at the white hart turns up in the calendar, passed through from the other group, no probs. Singer rings, talks to the pub, says we will be doing it instead. Comes the day of the gig, I have forgotten to put a poster up on all the facebook groups, so I ask what time we are starting, the drummer says 'they have already advertised the other group doing it, I say no they haven't. A bit of back and forth, and it tuns out, the other pub, called the White Hart, 10 miles east of here is the pub that they had booked and couldn't do, but now the white hart to the west is expecting us. Faffy way to start the day. Apologised to the East pub, did the west pub, wasn't expecting much as it is raining and the week before pay day, but turns out it is heaving and had a great night. Also I got to use my sign, even if I had to put it on the side as I cracked it

Not sure of the model - just had a look on the net, there are a lot of them. it has a yellow screen with channel numbers on it, two aerials, and a strength meter on the left. the sax unit is pretty flat with a single display saying what channel number it has. It has 2 AA batteries - it appears that they last one gig. We do an autoscan when all of my wireless stuff is on and it picks its own channel. Originally he put it in his saxophone but I thought that was a bad place being metal, so now he has a 3d printed side panel that it velcros on. Still the same problem. We have tried everything, its not the leads, it is the wireless.

Well, yes, I could buy another bongo and use that ones bridge but I was hoping for something cheaper!

Agreed. I don't like leads purely from the point of treading on them. It's just convenience and laziness. It's a bit more annoying on the sax because they are a pain to wire up and he is a very active frontman! stupid thing is, when it is working it is fine, and there is never distortion or anything, when it is working it's just like a lead, just clicking as it drops the connection and picks it up again.

See I get that but my cheap 5.8ghz wireless dongle has never dropped out, never clashed, sounds fine, works every time with no effort. I don't have and won't have stages to 10,000s so I don't have to worry about that, but I can't see anything else being better - especially as I don't need anything on the pedalboard for it. I guess I don't trust Shure that much, the only wireless things we have trouble with is the Shure wireless on the sax. It clicks all the time, needs new batteries every gig and is generally a pain.

I have the 5.8GHz - not listed as Lekato, but they are all the same thing, and a 2.4GHz, also not lekato. I gig the 5.8 version now as my main wireless and have had no problems. I don't notice any distortion, but obviously when gigging I probably wouldn't. But I haven't heard it at home either. I use the 2.4GHz as my home practicing for everything apart from my bongo (where all 2.4GHz dongles have too much interference). I think the wireless is one of the areas where I am pretty happy and am not looking any more for any changes.

The original two band EQ has 'by default', ie, in the centre position, quite a heavy treble boost, as I assume they were going for a bright 'not P bass' sort of sound to emphasise the modern style of the bass. The bass boost does seem from the circuit to mostly boost, although there is a little cut baked in, so if it isn't boosting, there is a little cut. Either way, the EQ of the bass is entirely irrelevant and has nothing to do with a weak string . The weak g string thing is a hardware issue, it would sound even acoustically. Its more something to do with that string vibrating and the neck / headstock / body / scale or whatever - pretty sure you would never be able to eq your way out of it, although you could probably make it better.

Clearly over half of them know nothing - you can ask them all you want. Why do you believe him over me? Ask 100 people in the street, I bet more people agree with me!

Oh come on, clearly you can recognise Rachel from 'Friends'

I would still love a Gibson Firebird VII - played one once, was pretty good but fair to say the vibrato is more aesthetic than useful! And a fender FSR Japan Flip flop. Not sure if there are any basses I want at the moment, but that changes rapidly. Micromonster synth box.

The ones I looked at that were in the £230 range had shipping due in september! Still tempted though, even though I knew it would probably be a waste of time.. so shiney.. Trouble is from an LED point of view, the choices (in 5 string) are either blue only, or constant flashing, would 'select a colour' be too much to ask?

Seems unlikely that the guitar waza connection would be different from the bass ones in that regard. What goes wrong, do they not see each other?

I wish I had kept on with music when I was a lot younger. Obviously I would like to be younger.. well actually, I really wouldn't, I would like to ache less I guess. I would like to be in a prog group that did something and didn't fall apart but I guess you have to be aware that there isn't much scope for that round here.

Anyone know where you can get a black bridge for a 5 string bongo? it has silver everywhere currently and I think it would look nice with black, but although you can buy saddles directly from the manufacturer, they don't seem to do the bridge as a unit (or even the base plate)

I tried last night, figured it wouldnt be too hard, turns out it is!

Would love a PM16, but its just another thing to buy / carry!

Unfortunately that is the way and one of the major pedalboards with flexability - trying to get what you want. When I started, you could only get pedals, and they were expensive so you didn't get many, so you made do with what you had, and made what you had do what you wanted - you also experimented more because you had to. Now with modern multifx you know you can basically get every sound you want if only you found the right one. Choice is the enemy here. I say one of the best ways of getting your sound could be to do the same. I haven't got many pedalboards on my dwarf (I have 3 - 2 are for specific songs and 1 is for everything else), I have others to play around on. Pick a number of effects - like one distortion, one echo, one chorus, one other effect, connect them up and just force yourself to get the sound you want in your head by fiddling with those for a period of time, even if there is a temptation to change them. stick all the knobs from the effects on the front panel and see what you can get. Move them round, change the order. As for order, that makes more sense when you think about the signal itself, like if you have an envelope effect, do you want to reduce the envelope (like with an overdrive or compressor) before you use the envelope? probably not. Do you want to distort a modulated signal, or do you want to modulate a distorted signal - they sound very different. There is no real science to this, its just how it sounds to you and only you are going to know what works, but you can't do it with all the effects on the dwarf, there are too many, just do it with the restricted set. Then finally when you know what you are not getting, start changing the pedals one at a time until you get what you want. As to your specific statements: 1) input gains - set them as high as they can go without overloading anything when you go crazy. Thats the easy way 2) The only way is to try it at gigging level - when you turn a fuzz one the level is going to change, and the perceived level will change, but also the eq - it depends on your equipment how loud that is. Keep the level on a front panel control until you know it (in fact I keep those levels on a front panel control) 3) ordering, compressor at the front / back. Where on a guitar I would always put it on the front, there are equally valid reasons for both sides - again, try it see what works, and why it works. There are no right ways (although I guess there can be wrong ways!) Not very helpful I know, but these things are so personal that its hard to say.

I noticed yesterday, when looking at something else, there is a 40% drop of how many 20 year olds had taken their car test compared to 1990, so maybe there will be fewer everyone having transport. I guess they can't all live in london!

Maybe a bit more than a week!

It includes SY1000 sounds. I didnt hear anything hugely away from the normal guitar synth SY1000 stuff though. Would love one, although to be fair, if I had one, I would fit it on a guitar to get a decent response on it. Maybe a baritone guitar tuned B-C?

ok, now I looked it is just a twisted pair cable, so what you would expect for high speed serial data, like an ethernet cable.

That was the stupid thing - the 400 had dual brakes, the 250 had a single disk, but both bikes had a near identical weight!

Left = 1 right = 2. Not sure if that can be changed, but that is what it is when I try it. Which is unfortunately really as I put my keys out of 2 and my bass out of 1!

I am not sure but there are different modes depending on what you are doing. if you are editing a patch like the one above, and you haven't saved it anywhere, all the time you are in the desktop like that, you are in local editing mode. As soon as you unplug the USB interface, you are then back in whatever patch is / was active before you started. Maybe this other patch hasn;t got the right layout. Seeing as that patch is called Untitled:default, that would seem to be the case. Save that patch as something, unplug the USB and make sure the patch name you saved is selected on the dwarf panel.