Woodinblack

ok! thought I must have missed something, so sorry for that. Indeed - it would have to be 18.47mm.. or close to 18.5mm So if you had a EHB or one of the later SRs you could probably make that adjustment on the same bridge!

Maybe I missed the start of the conversation here, but no idea what the scale length has to do with the bridge spacing. Unless you meant the bridge pickup or something. The bridge is invariably either 16.5, 18 or 19mm on an ibanez, which has nothing to do with scale, and whether your scale length is a mile or 10", the string spacing at the 12th fret will be the same (maybe your neck might be wider if they want to put more wood either side). according to ibanezes mezzo spec, it is 18mm at the bridge and 45mm at the nut, so a max of 11mm (probably some space, so invariably just under 10mm). So the string spacing at the 12th fret is 14mm (10 + (18 - 10) / 2), so the neck has to be at least 56mm to fit the strings over it, and then a bit more either side to stop the strings falling off the side An SR is the same at the nut but narrower at the bridge, so 10 + (16.5 - 10)/2 = 13.25 so 53 to fit the strings then a bit more. Looking at an SR here, that is pretty well what it is (except the string spacing at the nut is narrower).

There is really no big calculation there, the strings at the 12th fret is exactly half the size difference between the nut spacing and the string spacing at the bridgeg. The scale length has nothing to do with it, with the same nut size and same bridge size it will always be the same.

a SR1300PM? I don't tthink the G should be in there Like this: https://reverb.com/uk/item/41729275-ibanez-sr-1300-pm-custom-made-1994-natural

She really did, not an easy song, especially as she appeared to have caught fire at one point!

Bristol used to be good, it had its own bass section, its own keyboard section. It was also convenient to get to so that when I was downtown shopping with my wife, I could nip there while she was in another shop, and I got a chance to actually look at stuff. But then they closed the bass section so the basses moved to a wall, then they closed the shop and moved to somewhere where there was no reason for me to be, so I haven't been since then.

That is the trouble, sometimes the only way to find out you don't like something is to get it. I would love a 5, but again who knows if it is any good until I get to play one?

My group isn't going to do this, so I doubt I will ever play it, but it has a really killer bassline so I thought I would learn it anyway!

I am in no way saying having a feedback link in your profile is a bad idea, its certainly doable if people want that?

The bit where you have 'please check my feedback - graham1945'. That could be a link to your feedback. Editing your profile involves going to your profile by clicking on your image at the top (computer) or probably the menu on mobile, select profile and then pressing edit on the options there.

Most of the time I am playing a 33, 34 or 35, and don't really feel much of a difference between them, certainly not as much as the neck width or string spacing. I do have some 30s, and I have nothing specifically against the scale, just that those specifically are not favourites.

Why can't you put a profile link in your signature if that is what you want? Or you mean a separate listed link in all profiles?

Thermal shock? When you turn a valve amp on the valves are operating at least 120 degrees above room temperature, wherever you are getting it delivered from you are not going to get anything like that temperature variation.

How do you wait to open something you have just received? Thats madness. I suppose it makes sense if it is packed in a totally atmospherically and thermally sealed packing method, rather than a hard case or gig bag and a cardboard box, it has been sent from the antartic and you are in the desert, but otherwise, I would say no.

Its probably a conspiracy then

Cmake is made to remind people why they shouldn't use projects that use CMake! Hideous thing. Its a way of getting a lot of complication, and changing it so it is a different type of complication.

There is always https://dailyguitardraw.com - done by the people who run crimson guitars. I have tried a few times, haven't won anything

Found it really irritating - got a load of footswitch toppers, and it turns out there isn't just one size, and most of the things I wanted were the other size!

Agreed that asat should just have active passive. The active shouldn't boost your sound at all, it is just a line buffer so you don't change your tone by the cable. Proper Mr Fender wiring. The tone boost does add treble, never found that particularly useful, but I guess Leo was driving much older amplifiers at the time and also had hearing loss

I wasn't disagreeing with your point, it is using a microcontroller with more power than the apollo landers to do a flip flop, but I was just explaining to Rich the divide by 2. I don't disagree with you, although in some situations (not this) it is often easier and cheaper to go down that route.

Not if you think about it simply. If you have a footswitch, it can either be on when pressed and off when released, or you can have one that toggles between on and off every time you press it (which is sort of normal for a footswitch). The second type is just the first type divided by two, because if you pressed and released the first one twice it would go on / off / on / off, and the second would go on / off. Half as many changes, divided by two.

never had one die, had one go a bit distorted for a bit