2pods

If you are considering Scan, please consider choosing one they've specc-ed for Audio. It takes the pain out of making sure nothing is contributing Latency to your audio. They're usually quieter (can use mics) etc. Have a word with them. They're very helpful. I have no affiliation with Scan. I just love the systems and help I've had over the years from them.

Scan Computers have both an excellent reputation for building audio computers, and a Black Friday Sale on. I have both a desktop and a laptop from them, and while they were over your budget, I'm very pleased with them and their customer service. I've seen some really good setups there for less. SSDs have come right down, so if you go the single drive route, you can replace the original with a larger version, buy a small interface for a couple of quid, and use it for an external.

Don't know (I know, not much help ), but I'd love to see pics of all the fretboard and the rest of guitar. Maybe get a mod to move your post to Repairs and Technical ? Someone there may be able to help

No longer available

Did a wedding in the midst of a migraine (though I didn't know what it was at the time, so I was panicking all night), so bad that I was scared I would collapse on stage. The weird thing was the pain stopped while we were playing, but in between every song it was murder.

What about the Poly Pitchshift thingy on the HX Stomp and up ? Lots of people claim there's hardly any latency, and Stomps can be had for reasonable money

String slippage, or unwinding ? Have had similar years ago. Turned out to be a damaged string.

Could also be "Top 20" or "Zenta". Also Woolies specials

One of the main contributors to the Fractal Axe3 and FM3, Austin Buddy, has a bass amp model pack utilising mostly the internal guitar amps as bass amps a few and far between on this platform. I'm still working my way through it, but I'm surprised at how good some of his patches sound considering they're based on guitar amps and FX

Just in case any of our lot don't check the FX for sale (aye, right ) If OOO Mods delete. Looking for a swap of a vgc Stomp plus £700 for my mint (I know, but in this case it's true) Helix Rack and foot controller boxed with unclaimed Helix Native discount Seen here Ta

Even though I've played both pro and semi pro for nearly 45 years, I couldn't give you measurements from a ruler if I tried. Just can't do it. I can never make my mind up what unit of measurement I'm supposed to be using. I do know what a very high action is, and have on occasion, used it for various basses. Sorry about the photos, I didn't think measurements would be needed. You just have to look at the gap to see what I mean. Anyway, I've got the relief in the neck down to a reasonably small gap (usual capos at first and 14th fret). Unfortunately, as I say, there is very little adjustment left to lower the saddles, which would have been my next step. I bought my first Stingray new in 1996. It was always on the EB website that action was should be adjusted by truss rod, rather than the saddles every time. Not just when new. This was their advice and it worked for me on their basses (2 One 20th Anni and a 98 "normal") I don't know why, maybe they just meant relief first, then saddles, same as usual. I do know that's all I ever had to do to any of the stingrays I've had. I have adjusted the action myself as described. On arrival the saddles were already on the bridge plate they're so low. Which is why I asked about the shim (See further up thread.) BTW this is a used bass, so not straight from the factory. The only reason I asked about the shim, was that there are people on here who have had this bass, seen these problems, and sorted them. I wanted to know if there was a shim involved. Having said that, I just won't use Bass Direct again. Not just because of this. Just their attitude

SR30QB4 Natural SR1305 Ash SRH505F SR600E

Bass Direct's version arrived on Monday, and I'm a bit disappointed. this was the action: I contacted them saying I thought the action was far too high, and I would normally bring it down as I used to with my Stingray via the truss rod (as per EB FAQ), but the truss rod was at it's limit, and the saddles are on the bridge plate. I was told that they thought it was "setup nicely" but if I wanted to use the truss rod it was probably stiff. If I wanted it "super low" I'd have to take it to a tech, though after I replied, they said it was OK when it left them, there had been no problems with these basses before, been played in the shop a few times with no one mentioning it etc. and offered to try and sort it themselves, probably at my expense for shipping etc. After going as far as I could I have it not too bad, but wonder if a shim could be the answer ? I do like the wee bass, and after being fobbed off I don't want to trust Bass Direct. It's a bugger, as it sounds great.

Was it a SSS Stingray per chance ?

Did it twice on mine, then fine

My rack went fine. Halted once, and it did take about 20 minutes though

5

I knew it, but it's a long time since I worked in music retail. Thanks for the correct answer