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JazzBassfreak

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Posts posted by JazzBassfreak

  1. [quote name='alberobello' timestamp='1397141726' post='2421103']
    Thanks.. But I guess I've already reached to the boundries of my experience.. I do not want to do something wrong unless it is something easy and won't break anything. I already tried adjusting truss rods slowly (I waited at least 10 hours before I did another tiny adjustment!) But seems like it didn't help at all
    [/quote]

    10 hours is no good mate. Your Rics neck is 3 piece ROCK maple. Won't budge for at least two days without string tension. Go in 1/4 turns each truss rod with a straight edge like I advised, keep track of the height of the bass side compared to the treble with and without string tension. If all else fails, slack them both off, leave for at least three days fully slacked, with no string tension then start over. That would be the best option. If you take it to a luthier all they will want to do is peel the fretboard off and plane the neck.

  2. [quote name='alberobello' timestamp='1397142454' post='2421112']

    Thanks for the advise. If I go personally for sure I'd carry it with me but I am not sure about sending it somewhere far..I received many times destroyed boxes from abroad even tough there were fragile signs on them.

    Before the ric I owned a fender precision and there are many luthiers around that are really good in their job. However rickenbacker users always suggest not to go a luthier unless s/he is really experienced on rics. I am not aware of 'mechanical' differences between a ric and fender, just the thing I know is that it was way easier to adjust the neck on my fender. What would you say about it? A good luthier on fenders vs. sending it abroad? Thanks!
    [/quote]

    As I know from my tech experience over the years, Fender basses are hella easy to adjust compared to Rics. Mate if I were you I'd ignore the guy telling you to send it away. Are you really willing to let some random courier take "extra special care" of a bass that cost over £1000/$? Usually the boxes marked fragile get thrown around the most. I know this as fact.

    You know what you want to see from your bass, a straighter neck, lower action, and no twist. Please, just take my advice, go little by little adjust every few days and refer to my long post. It is possible to get a twist out of a Ric, (hence the two truss rods). If you need guidance/advice, inbox me.

    Happy to help.
    JBF

  3. [quote name='Fionn' timestamp='1397773336' post='2427399']
    Oh god ... this is back to haunt me :)

    Aaargh!
    [/quote]

    Back to haunt and yet more trade options have arisen :P all I ask is a nice white/black stingray with a matching headstock, or a bongo XD I'd like all trade offers to be 4 stringers please!

  4. So after withdrawing for a while, aswell as long hard thought, unfortunately one way or another I have to part with my beloved Alembic Epic. I love this one dearly and is an absolute cracker to play but I'm really not getting on with it and looking for something more conventional in trade (options below) or cash towards something in the ways of.

    Very good condition apart from a couple of dings here and there. An absolutely amazing player and hands down the best bass I have ever played. Three piece maple set neck, Alembic adjustable nut, bridge and tuners, ebony fingerboard, mahogany body with Zebrawood top and maple cap underneath, 24 frets. Pickups are original Alembic soaps, not sure on the series. The logo on the pickups is slightly worn yet still visible. Better/more pics available on request.

    Looking for old tobacco/sunburst Fender Jazz basses, 60's-78 no reissue offers please! I'm interested in well playing 4 string 24 fretters nice for tapping, Spector, Ernie ball Stingrays with matching headstocks, Ernie ball Bongo Basses, Alembic Spoiler/Persuader, Benavente & Sadowsky's too XD

    Please no modern Fenders or P basses(Already got an American J and P's ain't my thing). (cover is off in the pics but is included too) comes with custom fitted flight case.
    Cheers.

  5. [quote name='thodrik' timestamp='1397673592' post='2426386']
    Love my Sadowsky Metro. I have played a few Metros that didn't exactly blow me away, so I'm probably not in the 'fan boy' status. I do however like Roger Sadowsky's overall philosophy and general business practices, which is actually something that can sway me in a purchase. If I'm spending a tonne of money on a bass, I like it to go to a company that isn't headed up by [insert company figurehead you can't stand]. Still the Metros are now at a price point where I probably wouldn't be considering them just in terms of price.

    I really like the Sadowsky eq as well, though generally I only add a tiny bit of added bass and leave the treble off. I generally prefer a 2 band over a 3 band, just for simplicities sake. Once a 3rd EQ option is added, I end up twiddling knobs trying to find the 'right' sound and balance of mids, rather than just getting on with it and playing.
    [/quote]

    +1! Could not of explained my overall feeling better myself.

  6. [quote name='fingerz' timestamp='1397602173' post='2425667']
    I've not owned a Sadowsky, but have played a few in my time - defo in the double figures. I think your 'expectations' need to be specified in order for anyone to answer that question properly. But then it's so subjective. ALL basses vary, it's the simple truth. Some bass brands I love have built basses that I'm just not that into due to inherent tone, neck profile etc..
    I always remember ONE sadowsky I played that blew me away. A 4 string NYC, but others I've been less into, they aren't generally my bag but there's exceptions to every rule. I can't emphasise strongly enough the importance of playing an instrument first. It's a big gamble to order one, with the import costs etc and know it's going to be right for you. Rogers work is fantastic, I'm purely talking about that thing of 'horses for courses', and those tiny variations between instruments. If you have a Sadowsky itch, why not try out everything available in the UK first? And the Metro's too? You might just surprise yourself with one of the cheaper models. But at least that way you stand a chance of knowing it's right for you or not BEFORE you lay out the cash. I wish you a successful and enjoyable hunt for your Sadowsky!
    [/quote]

    Because I already own a metro!

  7. [quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1397311904' post='2422716']
    I've owned Metro and NYC basses and aside from the beautiful figured wood on the NYC, I'm not 100% sure that I would order a 'new' one over a new Metro! I'd most certainly take a used NYC over a used Metro... probably! :ph34r:[size=4] [/size]

    [size=4]Sorry if that doesn't help. One thing is that the NYC was the lightest Jazz [/size]derivative[size=4] bass that I have ever experienced (almost to the point it was too light and the headstock 'might' just have been dipping when on certain straps) but the Metro basses weren't boat anchors by any means. :)[/size]
    [/quote]

    I should of been more specific in the title, I own a metro, which I love, but I'm basically still listing after an NYC, this GAS will be the death of me.. The NYC's being chambered would be a plus for me though (back problems)

  8. [quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1397310644' post='2422702']


    I would have though any decent luthier could make you a ramp. Where are you located ? The Gallery in Camden could do you one no problem , or at the other end of the country Chris May at Overwater in Carlisle would do a great job. Jiimmy Moon in Glasgow if you are north of the border , or John Diggins in Birmingham if you are in the Midlands.
    [/quote]

    Yup Staffordshire about 45 mins from Brum, John Diggins?

  9. [quote name='molan' timestamp='1397251105' post='2422329']
    It's a shame you're not nearer to us - we've got a nice NYC that you could have a good try on to see what you think of them.

    Personally I like them a lot, especially the narrow nut Will Lee, but the NYC's with really nice tops are getting very pricey now.

    Great gigging basses. Always seem to sit really nicely in a band environment.

    Not as much low down punchy growl as your YYS though :)
    [/quote]

    The YYS is amazing in every sort of situation, but I'm not a fan of taking out the house too much! I've sold a few of my other basses so I think a Sadowsky 4 is my next buy. Btw I've been looking at getting a ramp made for my YYS, can you recommend anyone? Cheers :)

  10. So I've been sat thinking about ordering/buying a Sadowsky NYC 4 string, 24 fret with a nice top. I see a lot of 5's about but to be honest I've always been more of a 4 stringer. My main question is will this bass live up to my expectations? Has anyone out there got a Sadowsky NYC 4?

  11. [quote name='visog' timestamp='1397244664' post='2422258']
    Well that sounds a bit more involved and potentially drilling into your Fodera top. I think the Damien Erskine Skjolds have something like that. As a retro-fit, I'd go with a more simple ramp that gives you the 'wood under your fingers' feel without the fuss of some elaborate construction. Also I think the Gary Willis Ibanez has some adjustable thing happening too but yours is post-build and I don't want to suggest anything that involves Fodera surgery.
    [/quote]

    Nope, it would involve longer pickup screws :)

  12. [quote name='visog' timestamp='1397241855' post='2422221']
    Not sure what you mean by 'cover'. But as for wood, choices are a combination of looks and functionality. So you'd want a wood that compliments your bass, or provides a nice contrast. Like the top of your bass, it can be a laminate if your luthier doesn't have a deep chunk of walnut lying around. Jon Shuker used a laminate to raise the height of mine to just under the strings when fretted at the 24th fret. But don't sweat it too much as if you use the tape option as I'm recommending, you can experiment without altering your (probably very) expensive Fodera.

    As for woods, mine's walnut - see 4th row down, 4th column: http://www.gbguitars.co.uk/gb_spitfire_gallery3.asp
    [/quote]

    By cover I mean a wood cover that covers the pickups and also sits over the ramp :)

  13. [quote name='visog' timestamp='1397229480' post='2422049']
    My view, is short of having it shop-fitted by Fodera which I'm guessing is not an option, I'd get your nearest reputable luthier to make one out of a wood of your choice - (feel under the fingers & looks) and get them to fix it with double-sided tape so you don't make any permanent change to the wood on your bass. Bernie Goodfellow did my original ramp out of a matching walnut top wood and Jon Shucker (who's 200 miles nearer me) made some adjustments when we he set it up recently. Although it sounds flimsy, it works a treat. And shouldn't cost too much...
    [/quote]

    Thanks man. Just wanted abit of advice, what sort of wood for a ramp+cover would you yourself recommend?

  14. Hi guys,
    You may recall a thread not too long ago "So I bought a Fodera..." Well I've had chance to really get to grips with my new instrument and I really love it. But I'm having the old slight comfort issue of, I can't get used to perching my thumb on the P pickup and the J isn't where I play.

    Basically I need advice on a ramp? I'm wondering whether to have a custom ramp made to fit between the pickups and a custom wood cover to fit over it all so it kinda looks abit more like a mass single pickup (not sure)..Any views/suggestions appreciated.

    Cheers
    JBF

  15. [quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1396947183' post='2418912']
    Despite some very good advice above, having looked at the photos, if that were my bass and I lived in an area without appropriately skilled luthiers, it would be on its way via a large cardboard box and a plane to someone who knows what they're doing. I've seen a couple of disasters resulting from people trying to 'tweak' their own Fender necks, and Fender necks/rods are far more user friendly than is the case with Rics. This isn't a minor problem, unlike a Fender with a f**ked neck, a Ric with a f**ked neck is a f**ked bass.
    [/quote]

    True. But he'd have to send it a long way. Plus it's something that could make the situation a whole lot worse by running the risk of the neck breaking in shipping, plus the humidity change will make the whole twist a lot worse and could potentially crack the finish.

  16. Definitely a twist. In theory I gather you've altered the two truss rods separately, when really what you do to one you should do to the other too. It's all about minuscule adjustments with a bass with two truss rods else they will counteract each other and so much can go wrong.

    From my experience that bump looks like maybe in one place the truss rod has been tightened so much on the bass side it has probably hit the fingerboard and unfortunately most likely also will have twisted the neck.

    My suggestions:

    Get a good heavy string gauge, but leave them slack, take off all the tension from the truss rod on the bass side then tune the bass side strings (E & A) to say Eb to look where you're at. Adjust by tightening little by little over a week or two and keep checking where you're at with a straight edge and by sighting the neck. Leave the strings slack only tune them to check how the action is and if it looks like it's moved at all.

    DO NOT leave tension on the D and G strings as this will pull the treble side and make the twist worse.

    The neck is hard rock maple, if it is twisted it's gonna be a bitch to get out, so it may be worth looking into a tension jig to see if that may help.

    As a last LAST LAST resort there's always the case of slackening both truss rods completely and slowly tightening them over a few weeks working with a straight edge each time.

    Hope this helps

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