Marc S

Difficult to tell from those photos alone Any signs of a serial number anywhere? If you have doubts, then don't trade But you should also ask yourself how the bass plays, feels & sounds.... Try looking for photos of other 76 P basses online, and compare things like the font of the text, position & so on... Also, pics of the body etc might help others make a judgement Good luck whatever you decide Marc

I usually get my strings from A-Strings near Pontypridd in South Wales I hear their online prices are pretty good (in fact, they started with an on-line only shop in Cardiff) But as I live quite close by, and their in-shop prices a great, I pop by and buy them over the counter ... and they always kindly offer me tea or coffee too

[quote name='ljbass' timestamp='1437724941' post='2828460'] I´ve owned Stagg EUB and if I buy it again I´ll check the fingerboard first. You can easily fix almost all issues with electronics, endpin an such things, but if the fingerboard (the laquered one, not the rosewood one!) is not plain, you´ll end with lot of buzzing and madly high string action. The truss rod is not working a lot. IMO the repair is not worth the instrument (pretty soft wood under the neck laquer...). [/quote] More good advice Though I have to say, on mine, the finish on the fingerboard did seem to be really tough There wasn't a mark on it when I bought it, and after all the transporting about, and the playing - there wasn't a mark on it when I sold it But as ljbass says, check it over for wear & cracks etc I'm sure it'll be fine, unless it's been abused....

I'd say the above advice is a great start On my old Stagg, the dot position markers were not quite right But that's fixed easily enough A little dab of modellers acrylic black paint, to cover the old ones and some stick-on fluorescent types to replace (if any are out of position) On mine it was at the bottom end of the neck - I placed one in the "F" position The electrics on mine seemed fine Maybe just check the headphone socket, and the input socket are both working - plus check the pots The input socket is handy, for jamming along with MP3's But the most important aspect for me was changing the strings They were awful strings on the original! I knew nothing about DB strings, and initially found the choice was mind-boggling much more so than Bass Guitar... So maybe check if the owner knows whether they've been changed Some better quality, lower tension strings improved playability hugely for me Other than that - check for the usual obvious signs of cracks/ wear & tear around the body / neck joint Though that's not a particular problem with Stagg EUB's as far as I'm aware. If it's a good price, and condition seems fine - just go for it You won't regret it. A Stagg EUB was my first foray into the world of DB They're cheap, they're well worth the 2nd hand value, as you'd get your money back And they're pretty good instruments Best of luck PS. Let us know how you get on

Bit of a trek for me too (Cardiff) But I'd be really interested in something like this - just as an experiment, and to see what happens..... Particularly if a mix of DB / EUB and U-bass / Bass guitar and some effects were used.... Good luck with your search, and please let us know how you get on Nice video Camden Rob I somehow can't quite get the hang of switching a looper at the right point - it always goes wrong somehow Cheers Marc PS. I'm also interested as to whether there will be complaints along the lines of; "That lead-bassist, he's always drowning me out!" lol

I had a CV P bass, in Fiesta red, and I foolishly sold it They have obviously been discontinued now, as there aren't any more in the shops near me Perhaps they were indeed, selling better than the Mex Fender range I played a couple of both Mex and China made CV basses, and the CV's won hands down IMO Or maybe they think they've sold as many as they can in those designs / colours and are planning another series? A few come up, second-hand, but they seem to sell very quickly I think they will indeed become future classics - they are just top-notch quality and feel great to play, while sounding fab too... Think I want to trace down another CV P in Fiesta Red, ..... and this time keep it Good luck with your search I saw that one for sale on here - go for it

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1437551840' post='2826900'] Once he`s gone through his warm up for 10mins or so, walk over to his amp, switch it off and say "my turn" very loudly, with a smile on your face. Hopefully, as you`re good mates, he`ll get the humour - you could even make it a regular part of the weekly practice. [/quote] +1 for this idea Yes, it's often a problem with guitarists & drummers I'd say you should always warm up, even before rehearsal Do some scales or just move finger by finger, up & down the fretboard Can you hear yourself at gigs? Or is he constantly drowning you out? Best of luck!

[quote name='lefrash' timestamp='1437393500' post='2825538'] .....We rent a unit which is basically in a warehouse. The place is kitted out with lots of practice rooms and we even sublet our room to another couple of bands... so the room has a number of different amps on the go constantly... noone else has complained of any amps breaking....... [/quote] Are other bassists using your amp gear then? If this is the case, they may not be looking after it as well as you do, and even over-driving it.....

That's mad! All 4 with same symptoms? It really has to be the electrics in your reh room, or regular venue or more likely, the place / way they're being stored Let us know how you're storing your amps.... Better luck with the next amp! PS. A pal of mine keeps his guitar and amp in the boot of his car (His wife won't allow it in the house!) The old Marshall amp seems fine, apart from very crackly controls..... But his guitar seems to need a set-up and trussrod tweak rather too often for my liking.....

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1437075396' post='2823449'] Can I be the first to ask if it goes up to 11? [/quote] Lol Looks great, thanks for bringing it to our attention .... want one now!

Is the pickup blend pot original? If not, it may be incorrect value? Just a thought... Hope you get it sorted mate Let us know when you find out

[quote name='jazzyvee' timestamp='1436964288' post='2822370'] I had my first opportunity to go on tour at the age of 32 and thankfully my manager allowed me 3 months off unpaid leave to go on a 3 month tour of the USA. And to top it off they forgot to inform payroll that I was on unpaid leave so when I got back I realised they had paid me and my manager said... it would be too much hassle to get it all corrected so just forget it....!!! .......... [/quote] What! ? Lucky you Did you quickly rush out after speaking to your manager, to buy a lottery ticket? lol

[quote name='Nicko' timestamp='1436890533' post='2821778'] Seems to me there's two sides to this. If you really, really hate your job you should quit it. I only ever got to this point once in my life when I just couldn't face getting up to go to work so I bailed. I left a job that paid me an obscene amount of money but gave me no life at all. I had no other job to go to. At the time future prospects were bleak. It didn't matter cos it felt right to do it. If a career in music is really what you want explore the options and decide which is best for you. Then go for it. But be clear what the question is. You should n't confuse desperation with your current job with aspiration for a musical career. If the prospect of quitting the job you hate and having no money coming in fills you with dread I suspect the leap of faith might be too great. Maybe you should consider what you'd do if you didn't mind your current job. [/quote] Some wise words from Nicko here If you really do hate your current dayjob, find another one that you either don't hate so much, or even like! Then save up a bit and plan for your musical adventure But defo set some targets and go for it Re my earlier post #19 I almost forgot, I do know of a wonderful violinist She was a well paid accountant, but hated that career path She loved violin, and opted to go back and study that instrument, and music, and get another degree! She is now much shorter of cash than she was as an accountant, but she's much happier earning less money, but doing that by her love of music What helps her is that her husband earns a fairly decent full time wage .... she supported him through college, while she was earning, now he supports her when she's not earning much She's lucky in that respect But I admire her for chucking in a high earning job / career at a pivotal point in life... If you don't go for it, as others say, you may regret that later in life But make sure you've got a bit of cash behind you, for leaner months and that you've got a good plan a and plan b Again, good luck

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1436878966' post='2821597'] Hi James, this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question. What I'd do (and what I mostly still do) is to set everything 'flat' (or what looks like flat) on your amp and guitar, i.e. everything in the 12 o'clock or centre-position. Then just concentrate on getting the volume level right. Over time you will know if you need to cut or boost any frequencies through experience. At this stage I'd leave the compressor out of the equation, that's a whole subject on its own right there. You may not even need to use it at all. There's no 'best' setting for an amp or bass EQ otherwise everyone would set their controls to it and that would be that! But they don't. [/quote] Another +1 for discreet's answer here There really is no "right" setting, as it will not only depend on your bass, the liveliness of your strings, your amp head but it will also depend on what instruments your fellow band members are playing, how lively their strings are etc on the day plus, every venue differs acoustically too! As others have said, start off with everything (inc bass eq controls) at the 12 o'clock position (some Ibanez basses have a "flat" click position setting there) plus the controls on your amp Then dial in / out frequencies as necessary As you are just starting out, make sure you make just one adjustment at a time too..... Good luck

The old saying comes to mind; "If you want to earn a large fortune playing music..... ...... start out with a large one!" I know a few young, talented musicians who have tried to earn money entirely from music and every one of them had no money, unless they also got another (usually low paid) job.... Having said that - if it's your dream - go for it You never know, you could get a very lucky break.... It's unlikely you'll get that break in your current boring job and as others have said, the best time to do it is at your age You have the energy & drive you'll undoubtedly need while also being old enough to be streetwise etc I was in a job I hated, for years I couldn't get out of it - I know what a trap it can be But maybe just look at getting a better job in the meantime anyway ..... and yes, save like mad for those first few months on the road Whatever you decide Good luck

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1436216833' post='2816166'] I bough this one a year ago off a BC member for £625. They are fairly rare now, I haven't seen one for sale for years. You have to hear one to believe how awesome they are. [url="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/gelfin5959/media/20140910_131236_zps9986ec53.jpg.html"][/url] [/quote] Having had a little dabble with this very bass I have to agree with Gelfin - the sound they produce is very different However, I wasn't quite used to the feel of it I think it'd take me a bit of getting used to Re the OP That does seem an excessive price But if they're very rare nowadays, it's worth what someone is willing to pay......

[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1436860889' post='2821382'] You can use a regular 3/16 Allen key but the fender tool is waisted allowing you to turn the nut at an angle [/quote] I bought myself a set of decent allen keys from B&Q Make sure you get some nice Chrome Vanadium keys Mine have the waist too - as Geek99 says, you can angle the key There's much advice on here, and elsewhere But take it slowly. I've heard luthiers talk of no more than 1/4 turn every hour or so Good luck PS. I got a copy of the Haynes style Fender Bass manual It's got advice on maintenance in there - good read too