Marc S

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences. I'm frequently finding online examples of guitars and basses I know I'll probably never see in the UK - but would love to try out I've got two basses from the 80's from the Fender Japan factory, and have owned non Fender Japan made basses in the past (incl a Japan Ric copy I still own) I have to say the MIJ / CIJ instruments I've owned or played have all been superb instruments. My current examples just feel, look and sound lovely I really would like to pay this visit - but there are no future plans in my household to do so..... Sounds like you got a real bargain with that Jazz - but aren't you charged import duty when bringing it home in your luggage? There have been a few instruments recently, that I would have been highly tempted to go for, had it not been for the import duty and postage making them a bit too pricey Cheers

Sad news indeed RIP Tom

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1506278631' post='3377559'] Also, the SUB Ray4 not only has a Jazz-width neck but the one I had was very light also being made from basswood. [/quote] I played a (non US) Sub a little while back in a shop near me. I feel the same as you re MM's. I had a lovely one a while back. Loved the look (it was trans Red) liked the sound, after a bit of fiddling / getting used to EQ'ing it - but it was heavy, and the neck was too chunky... So I tried a Sub that I liked the look of, and it was lighter than a US MM, and the neck was more of a Jazz profile / width. Though I didn't measure it accurately, I looked at it alongside a MM in the shop, and it was definitely narrower. Looked rather nice too, in a sort of Surf Green colour, and the finish was nice - though it definitely wasn't as nice quality as the "real thing" I haven't tried one of those OLP MM basses, but I've heard people rave about them - and they seem to go for fairly reasonable cash second-hand..... Good luck with your search

I've got a Shaped Fender (red badge) case I picked up second-hand I've put a few Jazz basses in it, and there doesn't seem to be any movement. P basses on the other hand move.... a little bit Only thing with these cases, they're a very snug fit, and there isn't even room for a strap, without a bit of juggling about and careful arranging So there's not much room for leads / spare strings etc. Shame, because otherwise it's a nice case - fairly strong and light with it I was going to suggest a bit of padding, as others have done. As has been said though - that's not good, when you've paid quite a lot of money for a case Again, the Highway Jazz may be slightly different dimensions to a Standard US - so there may not be any "perfect fit" cases, other than those originally supplied with the Highway

PS. Are you anywhere near a regular bass bash, or other BC members? I ask, because you don't mention your location in your profile or this thread - you never know..... ...there may be an upcoming bass-bash event, or maybe a local friendly BC member may let you try out a bass or two? We bassists are generally a friendly bunch - just like drummers lol

Yes, I'd agree with Steve in his above post. In this case, it may be the 34" scale length that is a problem But with the nut of your bass that much further away, it's more of a stretch for your left arm, and stretching your fingers may be more difficult due to your wrist position. Definitely try an osteopath. I would also try a few more basses as well though. Often, in shops, they just hand you a bass and plug it onto an amp - but take your own strap along, or ask them if you can also try the bass with a strap, so you can see how it handles when you're stood up (if you ever intend playing live, this is important unless you intend to sit down for every gig). I've got a couple of different scale length basses, and I actually find medium scale a good option. Being used to DB and 34" scale - I'm conscious that I'm likely to over-shoot or overstretch on my 30" and 25" scale basses (especially the latter). It may be that 34" scale is fine for you - and you just need a bass with a different body shape. Go and try a few P and J basses to start. Also, if you can, try a Squier SS (short scale) Jaguar. They're very well made and good value for money. I've seen them go for £150 ish second-hand, which is a lot of bass for that sort of cash. Be aware that Squier Jag basses also come in 34" scale as well - so make sure it's the SS model you're trying.... Best of luck with the pain though - hope you find a solution Let us know how you get on EDIT: Try a few different models of P and J too - because neck radii and nut width seems to vary so much - even within the same make and model

Definitely try as many as you can, and yes, keep an eye on the marketplace here I'm really a 4 string player, and don't tend to play my 5'er much But I tried several, and found that it was tricky to find something that had good (wide-ish string spacing) yet didn't have an overly wide neck .... and also a bass that didn't weigh a tonne I had a perfectly good Squier 5 string P bass. I felt like an upgrade and got a Yamaha TRB 5 stringer, which is lovely Good luck with your search

Yes, I've seen a few that look like that too including one that looks a bit like someone has tried to achieve that effect.... and gone totally OTT It's genuine though - the guy who owns it has had it since new You'll have to look closely at other clues to find out whether it's genuine or not But heck, is it a great bass? That's the most important thing

[quote name='AntLockyer' timestamp='1504872950' post='3367920'] 3. this is just another GAS excuse [/quote] Lewis - you know this is just another GAS excuse! lol Sorry, I only just caught up with this thread, but my advice would have been "buy the Squier" anyway On the back of the headstock, does it say "Made in Indonesia"? - that's probably a Vintage Modified series They did a P/J in the VM series - I know because I once had one Enjoy your new Squier

There seemed to be similar rumours about a year ago Thanks for that link Muppet - looks like all is OK Long live Denmark Street

Welcome to BC, and moreover, welcome back to the world of bass I too had a long abstinence from bass playing... mine was over 20 years! That would definitely beat you in a game of "Missing from bass top trumps" It's never too late to start again. I try not to compare myself with other players Or at least if I do, I try not to think of them as "better than me" - they often are, but I like to sit, watch, listen & learn from better players I saw someone play at an open mic recently, and thought he was great - but after I played... he complimented me before I could compliment him lol - then he bemoaned his own skills, wishing he could do this or that... So maybe, as bass players, many of us are perhaps our own worst critics? In any case, the most important thing is just to enjoy playing bass, and enjoy taking part in music I was in Cambridge recently, as I am every year for the folk festival - love the festival, but never manage to tear myself away from it and get into the town centre PS. I'm guessing, like me, you are old enough to remember Top Trumps?

[quote name='The Jaywalker' timestamp='1504918278' post='3368354'] Nope. Spiro Weichs have the same spiral rope core as the mittels. Not a synthetic core at all. [/quote] Errr... can you tell me exactly what components are used in the rope core? Rope can of course, be made of several components, and often several quite different materials - several of them synthetic... I was using the loosest meaning of the word "synthetic" in order to demonstrate that the core material of Spirocore Weich strings are a different material to the outer metal windings As such pedantries can deviate the topic from the OP's original question, and cloud important issues, I would like to repeat my point that Spirocore Weichs are a low tension option (whatever exact materials constitute the core)

[quote name='bassace' timestamp='1504962837' post='3368591'] ....Incidentally, before you slacken the strings you can wedge a piece of wood, cut accurately to size, between the underside of the fingerboard overstand and the table. That will maintain pressure on the sondpost and guarantee it'll be kept in place. Put a piece of cloth between the wedge and the table to protect it from scratches. I learnt that little trick from Gearge Martin.... [/quote] Useful tip there bassace

[quote name='The Jaywalker' timestamp='1505049624' post='3369108'] Ah! Gotcha. That's not at the extreme end. Still wouldnt recommend or consider the wooden shims route myself. Not standard luthiery practice for a reason, i guess. Realist pickups allegedly fit to the bridge foot perfectly as well, but folks end up using heavier string guages at the pickup side to compensate for the resultant uneven response, or taking their bass to a luthier for adjustment without realising the pickup is the problem. Don't get me wrong, i'm not saying shims arent "feasible" - but it's not the optimal way to do things...... [/quote] It wasn't being suggested as "optimal" in the first place I was merely talking over different options for differing playing styles, for a beginner to consider... As you may have missed from my original post - I was suggesting that when sending a DB to a luthier for the first time, he may wish to think about getting an adjustable bridge fitted - partly to learn about, appreciate and experience different string heights especially since at this stage, he may also wish to be trying different string gauges.... EDIT: Here's the youtube video. If you have any interest in slap DB at all, Pete is an excellent teacher. It was this video that started me on the road to slapping I'd watched several other videos, and not quite got the mechanics of it until I saw several of Pete's videos. I know a couple of guys who've met him, and they couldn't get over what a great guy he is Like his style of playing & teaching too - but that's a strange (and likeable) accent he has - a sort of English / Canadian hybrid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SriEOjsDCo

[quote name='The Jaywalker' timestamp='1504918582' post='3368356'] This isnt really a good idea. If the bridge is correctly fitted then the feet have been hand finished to match the contour of the table for maximum contact. Put wooden shims under there and the sound is compromised, as is the potential stability of the bridge. [/quote] Well then tell Pete Turland! As I had already mentioned - he was suggesting it as a simple, inexpensive method for swapping between string types and gauges.... He states that he knows several famous players who employ this practice, and I'm sure such an experienced professional DB player wouldn't recommend it if he didn't think it was acceptable he was after all voted as being among the top 10 rockabilly DB players of all time.....