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Marc S

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Everything posted by Marc S

  1. [quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1498200211' post='3323044'] It sounds like ergonomically, you don't have a great preference, so it'll come down to sounds. A Jazz cannot do the P "sound", not really even close. But IMO a PJ, with both pickups blended gets pretty close to the Jazz sound. And, of course, they both have the same bridge pickup for that one soloed. For me, I cannot do without the P sound, so it has to be a PJ. But if your main sound is the Jazz bass, both pickups blended, then its probably best to go for a Jazz. As for longevity, I truly don't believe there is any difference between any of them. PLay a load of basses and choose the best one. INdividual basses of the same model do vary too. You can get individual cheap affinity squires that sound better than some MIM Fenders. [/quote] I now have 2 P basses which I've had converted to P/J's, and I'm really sold on the sound and flexibility. I play in several bands, who are quite different from one another, and different with respect to what they like or expect from my sound and from how my sound "cuts through". I find I can always cut through with a P/J, I get a nice P sound, with as much of a hint of Jazz "burble" as I want. I can also get a very Jazz-like sound, with a hint of P (if you know what I mean) - indeed, it's quite tempting to keep twiddling combinations and levels of both pickups - and it can annoy guitarists too! My fretless bass (I only play fretless occasionally) is a Jazz, and oddly enough, I prefer the tones I can get from that, to the Fretless P I used to own. So for me, a fretted bass should be a P/J - I've not tried a fretless P/J but I think I'd prefer a fretless to be standard J/J. Re the comments about getting a P sound from a Jazz - I've owned several basses of both persuasion and I never quite got a P sound from a Jazz. The closest I managed was with my Roadworn Jazz - the pickups of which I swapped for an old set of DiMarzio 1980's / early 90's pups, which sounded amazing. You could probably get pretty close, as Conan says above, with a decent neck pickup (like my old DiMarzio's) solo'ed and maybe a preamp and/ or EQ pedal - but I suspect it wouldn't be as obviously P bass sounding as JJ Burnel produced on those early Stranglers LPs. JJ and his sound was one of the sounds that attracted me to bass btw
  2. [quote name='Radchenko' timestamp='1498136396' post='3322725'] Send to Spain? Possible trades? [/quote] I've said at the bottom of my original post - I'm trying to thin my growing collection of gear, so no trades thanks I'd also prefer collection, if possible. If it doesn't sell here in the UK, I may consider sending abroad, but I've been contacted a couple of times about this cab, and I've got a few people who seem very interested
  3. Bit of interest in this cab, But thought I'd bump it anyway.... If you haven't heard one of these tiny cabs - I would highly recommend you do get to hear one at some point I still can't get over how "Big" these little beauties sound EDIT: Sounds great with Double bass too
  4. I've heard of dodgy solder joints in the electrics of both passive and active basses playing up. Though such an occurrence is indeed rare, it could happen to anyone, and I rather not take that risk, especially if someone is paying for me & my band to entertain their crowd / audience. Given the current weather, I'd be surprised if this heat didn't affect electrics for someone too. Also known one incident, and heard of other people's pickups just going dead mid-gig Any reason is a good one to buy a backup bass surely MikanHannille?
  5. [quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1480949471' post='3188294'] Providing there`s room I always take a spare along. In fact I`ve got a bass on the way to fill that position as I don`t like taking two expensive basses out with me, so the incoming is a Squier which will be perfectly good as a backup. [/quote] My thoughts are exactly the same - I've got two "expensive" basses, for the best gigs / functions and a couple of cheaper basses for "certain venues" or a cheapie as backup I know not everyone agrees with taking a backup - but Murphy's law can strike at any time I used to take just one bass, Way back when I could only afford one, or we only had one driver or one car which had to transport the whole band and all the gear (yes, that happened, and I don't know how we squeezed in! lol) But back then, I do recall a dodgy solder joint meant no output on another bands' bass, and a broken bass string, and several snapped guitar strings - all of which resulted in bands sharing guitars & basses I think back then, we were all younger & poorer, and guitars were relatively more expensive - so perhaps we were more willing to share gear. Come to think of it, I played more gigs where we were one of 2 or 3 support bands, and we all just seemed to use the "main" bands bass amp etc - all amicably pre-arranged with a phone call Any emergency borrowing of guitars all seemed perfectly acceptable PS. I even carry a spare amp head these days! Sounds daft, but it's an absolutely miniscule, Euphonic Audio (EA) 2 channel 550W head - smaller than many effects units at about 7" x 5" x 1.5" - and it sits in a little storage compartment of my car. I could get it in the glove box! I kid you not Lol Anyhow, herein lies another ++ tale for taking spares. A couple of weeks back, we played a school fete, and our violin player was told he could plug into the DJ's mixer. We get there and there's no spare input on said mixer! So I swapped heads for the EA and plugged him into my 2nd channel..... sorted in 2 mins
  6. [quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1498036461' post='3322075'] You were lucky - we ended up livin' in a cardboard Ricky box in't middle o't road! [/quote] Cardboard box? luxury... sheer luxury!
  7. I bought the partner to this cab from P-T-P the other day It's in great condition, and P-T-P is a good BC'er to deal with GLWTS Pete
  8. Marc S

    P-T-P's Feedback

    Bought one of P-T-P's Markbass NY 112 cabs the other day He was selling two, "preferably together" - but I managed to convince him to split them for me So I hope he manages to sell the other one now! lol Great guy to deal with, and top bloke with it! Trade, buy, sell in complete confidence BC'ers
  9. Epifani 1x10 lightweight bass cab. You don't see these come up for sale in the UK very often! The new price on these is only likely to increase. Fed up of lugging massive, heavy bass cabs around? Think you can't get much volume from a small cabinet? - Think Again! These are the best 1x10 bass cabs I've ever heard. Top quality, very lightweight, powerful, and capable of a huge range of tones. The tweeter on this cab is amazingly controllable. I'm only selling this cab cos I've tweaked my flexible rig, and I have another of these cabs - which is going nowhere. I've played smaller & medium sized gigs using just this cab. If you doubt it's volume & power handling, come & give it a whirl.. Comes with a plastic (home-made) cover, which does the job In great condition, hardly any wear on the fabric covering. Pair this cab with a 1x12" or a 1x15" and save your back Specifications • 10" cast aluminum frame speaker with neodymium driver • 100W RMS tweeter • Light strong Italian poplar cab • 1/4" phono/Neutrik SpeakOn connectors • High-grade electronic components • Heavy-duty fabric covering • Corner protectors • Top handle • Sensitivity: 99dB SPL @ 1w 1m • Frequency Response: 45Hz - 16kHz • Power Rating: 250W RMS (600W Peak) • 8 ohms • Suggested wattage: 100W - 500W • Dimensions: 17 "W x 13-3/4"H x 12-1/2"D • Weight 11.6kg I'd prefer collection from Cardiff - I'd want you to hear this superb cab anyway No trades please - I'm trying to thin the collection (a bit! lol)
  10. Re your odd distorted sound - eliminate one thing at a time... Plug it into your amp only - i.e. with nothing else in the chain - remove the mixer, your Sansamp etc Then try different leads, if the problem still persists. Failing that, it might still be your amp - have you got a bass playing pal with an amp you could test your bass with? Or another bass you can test your amp with? Maybe you could pop back to the shop and try your bass with another amp or 2?.... but first, isolate each thing in the chain, from leads, batteries (in Sansamp or any other pedal) Glad you got one you're comfortable playing, and that you like PS. Love the look of gsgbass'es White Jazz with maple board too - nice!
  11. [quote name='bazztard' timestamp='1497758323' post='3320387'] the obvious answer is buy another P, put flats on one, rounds on the other . It's the only way I could resolve the issue hehe [/quote] This was my first thought too lol I recently put some LaBella Low Tension flats on a new fretless bass I have to say, I've grown to like them quite a lot. I don't like the higher tension you get with Flats Previously, I had a fretless with TI flats - they were a lovely low tension string, but sometimes felt a bit too low tension
  12. Well, first of all - good on you for just going ahead and asking Scott what odds & ends he had lying around If you hadn't, anything could have happened to this body & neck... who knows You don't see many SD Curlee's around for sale, so part of me just thinks, go ahead & do as complete an original "restoration" as you can... I think I'd be tempted to do it as a custom build that looks "quite a bit like an SD Curlee" - or maybe an SD Curlee which was a custom build one-off - perhaps an unusual colour or finish? Or even an SD Curlee that's been re-finished? Will you be sourcing as close to the orig pickups as possible? Will you be able to do that, or would it be better to fit more modern pickups, or upgraded pickups and electrics? It's a tricky question, and I think you might get several different (and opposing) answers - which might not help you in your dilemma Once completed, will you badge this bass as anything? Will you leave it un-badged / un-branded? Is it an SD Curlee? - probably not, but it's sort of also "the last one" - or is it? Sorry, I've given you more questions than you already had lol
  13. [quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1497428974' post='3317987'] ..... when I picked it up - it did feel like a slightly chunkier neck than either my Sandberg or Warwick. Kinda hoping that my reasonably large hand reach will mean that I could get used to this, but wondering whether this has been an off-putting factor for others, too? Please do keep your thoughts / views coming - they're always interesting and informative to hear! [/quote] I think for me, Ricks have slightly chunky necks, but I don't find them overly chunky What I think I disliked (a bit) about the 4003 I used to own, was not so much the chunkiness - but the neck didn't seem to taper as much as it does on say, a Fender Jazz. I've not played a Rick with as chunky a neck as an old 70's Fender P I once owned - but again, a chunky neck that doesn't taper noticeably toward the nut is what I think I don't like - again, that's just personal preference. One of the nicest basses I've ever played, and perhaps the best, most comfortable Rick I ever played, belongs to Gelfin of this forum. I've mentioned it before, but he challenges anyone not to like it, and pretty much everyone who has played it (even Rick haters) seem to be won over.... You'd think that such things would be far more universal and without so much variation - but some basses just seem to be better players, or have more "mojo" or just seem easier to bond with..... EDIT: So there are great Ricks out there lol Good luck in your search - maybe just go for the one you really liked - again, it's your money and your choice. Listen to peoples opinions, but bear in mind that they may have just taken a dislike (or stronger) towards a particular brand, and Rick seems to be one of those brands.... BTW. You mention Sandbergs - I've nothing against them, but I tried to bond with a couple, and just couldn't. I tried a couple that one guy was selling, one of the cheaper models and a rather expensive one, and oddly enough the cheaper one felt and sounded the better bass - still not a patch on my RW Precision mind.. but again, it's all about personal taste & preference....
  14. You shouldn't avoid getting one.... If you love the look, feel and sound of a Rick - then get one. I know there are a lot of Rick haters on here, but if it's the bass that does it for you, and you are GASsing after one - then there's only one course of action Like others, I don't care for the CEO very much, but I once bought a car from a salesman I didn't particularly like either - though the car was fine.. I've always liked Ricks, they're just very "different" in appearance and I love the sounds and variety of tone you can get. One of my fave bass players, Paul Grey (ex Damned, Hot Rods, UFO) plays them, and I've always really liked his sound. But as others have noted, they've been used in many genres of music, and always look & sound good. Just wear a sweat band on your right forearm to stop the body edge from digging in.... Also, try thoroughly before you buy - you may find they vary, well, at least in terms of set up, but I had a 4003 and it was pretty damn good, but wasn't the easiest to play - given that I'd played a few. These days, I don't own a Rick, but I've got an old 70's Shaftesbury that I love, and though I rarely play it, for me it's the best "Rick" I've ever played.... Good luck curing your GAS - let us know what you decide to do
  15. I've got a 32" Squier P bass, and it's loverleee! Nice scale length, light as a feather, easy to play, yet still sounds big, like a full scale length bass Easy to adapt between 32" and 34" scale lengths too IMO I don't blame your luthier for refusing to modify it - such beasts are indeed rare, and rarer still in mint condition This won't be around long, but GLWTS anyway EDIT: IN fact, don't hold on too tight to it - someone will 'ave your arm off!
  16. [quote name='ikay' timestamp='1497007148' post='3315242'] Bear in mind that if you lower the action you may need to tweak your intonation again! Ideally you should have got your luthier to set the action at the same time he did the intonation. [/quote] I was just about to say the very same thing. Did you pay your luthier for a full set-up? How well do you know him? Could you maybe give him a call, and ask if he could tweak the action for you? just say you're struggling with it, as it's too high (or low) for you. If you paid for a set-up a luthier should normally check how you like the action set Also, what strings have you got on the bass? Have you changed them? A decent set of strings really can make all the difference to the playability and sound of a bass - BUT if you intend to do this, be sure to replace them before you take to the luthier - as a different gauge of string may need another intonation/ action adjustment.... Best of luck with it
  17. [quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1496945248' post='3314925'] I've actually got one of these PB-50 basses, currently stock. Came as a part trade on something else I sold. Cogs be turning after reading this thread! To the guys who did these, how did you nail the headstock shape before taking tools to them? [/quote] Why do I keep finding out you've got even more basses than I previously thought Lewis? lol
  18. Thanks to Donnyboy for resurrecting this thread - as somehow, I managed to miss it first time around! How did that happen? Great work both Donny & Discreet. Really like the look of this HB Precision. The colour looks great too, and I liked it with the gold pickguard - even though a Gold PG is not usually "my thing". Every now & again, I get a bit of a hankering for a 50's P bass.... and those pics haven't helped! Nice tint to that neck too Discreet, and the re-shaped headstock looks great too
  19. He's not too close to you, but I can't speak highly enough about Dave Dearnaley in Cardiff. He does lots of custom built acoustic & electric guitars too. Top bloke, really knows his stuff and nice guy to boot. I'm sure there'll be someone closer to home for you though.....
  20. [quote name='paddy109' timestamp='1496658348' post='3312962'] ....I used to just slacken the strings a little before making adjustments on the bridge - never any dramas but jut keep an eye on the feet of the bridge and they remain flat on your bass. [/quote] Same here - I've not had any problems with the bridge falling over
  21. [quote name='police squad' timestamp='1496675144' post='3313119'] you won't be disappointed with a Flea bass. I am amazed how good the pickups are, especially the bridge one. For the first time in nearly 30 years of gigging I find myself dialing in the bridge pickup..... [/quote] Another +1 for the Flea Jazz here too. Although again, it might be a bit more than your budget..... They are fairly light and nicely balanced, and somehow, like all the RW series, they feel "played in" and comfortable... Pickups definitely sound really good too, as police squad says Oddly enough, the Flea Jazz is cheaper new than the Fender Roadworn Jazz, yet Flea's are going for more second-hand! Supply & demand, or maybe they're just apparently more desirable?
  22. If you could extend the budget a little further (assuming it's £500 +) I would say keep a lookout for a Fender Roadworn Jazz Yes, they're well over £1K new now, and they seem to fetch £650 or so second-hand on here But I did spy one in freeads a short while back, which was offers around £600 The Roadworn Jazz is the bass that made me fall for Fenders again. They're MIM, but they're a cut above that (or 3) EDIT: And I've played a few really nice MIM's too.... I've owned 2x US Jazzes, and the Roadworn was better than both those, and other US and MIM Jazzes I've played....
  23. Bumpity bump - this is sat in my workshop, unused... I changed my DB and my EUB, both of which have adjustable bridges - so I can't see me using this I really like having the ability to adjust the bridge height on DB
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