Marc S

[quote name='MoJoKe' timestamp='1498056327' post='3322253'] Would you think of turning up without a spare cable? I have been playing live since 1978, and I have never NOT turned up at a gig with a spare bass. Wouldn't even dream of it.......Whether the audience is 10 or 10,000, there is no excuse for having to stop a show because of a breakdown..... This is a no brainer subject. [/quote] A good pal of mine runs a lot of open mics & acoustic sessions. He always carries a spare everything (pretty much) He knows a lot of venue owners, and knows them really well. His argument is that if a band member couldn't play due to equipment failure, then that band would never play that venue again.... Another pal of mine witnessed some ugly scenes when his guitar electrics failed mid-gig. The crowd were all up for it, and dancing when his guitar gave up the ghost - they started getting quite aggressive during the extended lull. Luckily for him, a mate who lived not too far from the pub nipped home and loaned him his guitar. The landlord wasn't too happy though, and refused (rightly) to pay them the full fee, as they'd only played just over half the agreed time.... All this talk about "spare cars" "spare deps" etc is nonsense. These are things that you can never plan for (aside from AA membership, of course) But you CAN carry a small, lightweight spare - just look at the link below. There really is no excuse. Sure, you may never NEED the spare, but there is peace of mind knowing that you have a backup bass. That may indeed make me, and others who carry a spare bass a bit "OCD" - fine... but you only need one failure of electrics / pickups etc to potentially spoil your chances of not getting repeat bookings... Equipment failure & string breakages may be rare, but they can happen. As Woodinblack says - "[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]It doesn't take any extra effort to throw an extra bass in the car does it?" Especially when they're as compact and light as this - it really is no additional effort.....[/font][/color] [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anygig-AGB-Full-Scale-Length-Portable-Traveler-Bass-Guitar-Black-Brown-Cherry-/142321952968?var=&hash=item21230ca8c8:m:m20SrJEO2chUpjhTpep9_VA"]http://www.ebay.co.u...2chUpjhTpep9_VA[/url]

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1498305813' post='3323748'] Latest addition to the 32" scale collection, colour aside it's a nice bass, action is low, the neck is slim and fast, one sharp fret end, sounds OK, I'm really glad I bought it as it's no toy and will make a great project bass. [/quote] I've seen those basses on ebay. Though it's not my favourite, actually I quite like the colour. Great that it's a P/J as this is my preference in pickup arrangement these days Just wondering what projects / ideas you have in mind for the bass? Pickup upgrades? Electrics from Kiogon? New hardware? - please tell

I forgot to add btw - one slight difference in a P/J P bass, and a P/J Jazz, is that of any given make / brand / batch the smaller body of the P should normally weigh slightly less than its' counterpart Jazz body. I never used to understand why people asked about the weight of basses - but now my joints, arms and shoulders ache more, this factor has become more important! lol I haven't seen many factory built P/J Jazzes around. I have a Short Scale P/J Jazz - but these are as rare as hen's teeth

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1498200211' post='3323044'] It sounds like ergonomically, you don't have a great preference, so it'll come down to sounds. A Jazz cannot do the P "sound", not really even close. But IMO a PJ, with both pickups blended gets pretty close to the Jazz sound. And, of course, they both have the same bridge pickup for that one soloed. For me, I cannot do without the P sound, so it has to be a PJ. But if your main sound is the Jazz bass, both pickups blended, then its probably best to go for a Jazz. As for longevity, I truly don't believe there is any difference between any of them. PLay a load of basses and choose the best one. INdividual basses of the same model do vary too. You can get individual cheap affinity squires that sound better than some MIM Fenders. [/quote] I now have 2 P basses which I've had converted to P/J's, and I'm really sold on the sound and flexibility. I play in several bands, who are quite different from one another, and different with respect to what they like or expect from my sound and from how my sound "cuts through". I find I can always cut through with a P/J, I get a nice P sound, with as much of a hint of Jazz "burble" as I want. I can also get a very Jazz-like sound, with a hint of P (if you know what I mean) - indeed, it's quite tempting to keep twiddling combinations and levels of both pickups - and it can annoy guitarists too! My fretless bass (I only play fretless occasionally) is a Jazz, and oddly enough, I prefer the tones I can get from that, to the Fretless P I used to own. So for me, a fretted bass should be a P/J - I've not tried a fretless P/J but I think I'd prefer a fretless to be standard J/J. Re the comments about getting a P sound from a Jazz - I've owned several basses of both persuasion and I never quite got a P sound from a Jazz. The closest I managed was with my Roadworn Jazz - the pickups of which I swapped for an old set of DiMarzio 1980's / early 90's pups, which sounded amazing. You could probably get pretty close, as Conan says above, with a decent neck pickup (like my old DiMarzio's) solo'ed and maybe a preamp and/ or EQ pedal - but I suspect it wouldn't be as obviously P bass sounding as JJ Burnel produced on those early Stranglers LPs. JJ and his sound was one of the sounds that attracted me to bass btw

I've heard of dodgy solder joints in the electrics of both passive and active basses playing up. Though such an occurrence is indeed rare, it could happen to anyone, and I rather not take that risk, especially if someone is paying for me & my band to entertain their crowd / audience. Given the current weather, I'd be surprised if this heat didn't affect electrics for someone too. Also known one incident, and heard of other people's pickups just going dead mid-gig Any reason is a good one to buy a backup bass surely MikanHannille?

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1480949471' post='3188294'] Providing there`s room I always take a spare along. In fact I`ve got a bass on the way to fill that position as I don`t like taking two expensive basses out with me, so the incoming is a Squier which will be perfectly good as a backup. [/quote] My thoughts are exactly the same - I've got two "expensive" basses, for the best gigs / functions and a couple of cheaper basses for "certain venues" or a cheapie as backup I know not everyone agrees with taking a backup - but Murphy's law can strike at any time I used to take just one bass, Way back when I could only afford one, or we only had one driver or one car which had to transport the whole band and all the gear (yes, that happened, and I don't know how we squeezed in! lol) But back then, I do recall a dodgy solder joint meant no output on another bands' bass, and a broken bass string, and several snapped guitar strings - all of which resulted in bands sharing guitars & basses I think back then, we were all younger & poorer, and guitars were relatively more expensive - so perhaps we were more willing to share gear. Come to think of it, I played more gigs where we were one of 2 or 3 support bands, and we all just seemed to use the "main" bands bass amp etc - all amicably pre-arranged with a phone call Any emergency borrowing of guitars all seemed perfectly acceptable PS. I even carry a spare amp head these days! Sounds daft, but it's an absolutely miniscule, Euphonic Audio (EA) 2 channel 550W head - smaller than many effects units at about 7" x 5" x 1.5" - and it sits in a little storage compartment of my car. I could get it in the glove box! I kid you not Lol Anyhow, herein lies another ++ tale for taking spares. A couple of weeks back, we played a school fete, and our violin player was told he could plug into the DJ's mixer. We get there and there's no spare input on said mixer! So I swapped heads for the EA and plugged him into my 2nd channel..... sorted in 2 mins

[quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1498036461' post='3322075'] You were lucky - we ended up livin' in a cardboard Ricky box in't middle o't road! [/quote] Cardboard box? luxury... sheer luxury!

Bought one of P-T-P's Markbass NY 112 cabs the other day He was selling two, "preferably together" - but I managed to convince him to split them for me So I hope he manages to sell the other one now! lol Great guy to deal with, and top bloke with it! Trade, buy, sell in complete confidence BC'ers

Re your odd distorted sound - eliminate one thing at a time... Plug it into your amp only - i.e. with nothing else in the chain - remove the mixer, your Sansamp etc Then try different leads, if the problem still persists. Failing that, it might still be your amp - have you got a bass playing pal with an amp you could test your bass with? Or another bass you can test your amp with? Maybe you could pop back to the shop and try your bass with another amp or 2?.... but first, isolate each thing in the chain, from leads, batteries (in Sansamp or any other pedal) Glad you got one you're comfortable playing, and that you like PS. Love the look of gsgbass'es White Jazz with maple board too - nice!

[quote name='bazztard' timestamp='1497758323' post='3320387'] the obvious answer is buy another P, put flats on one, rounds on the other . It's the only way I could resolve the issue hehe [/quote] This was my first thought too lol I recently put some LaBella Low Tension flats on a new fretless bass I have to say, I've grown to like them quite a lot. I don't like the higher tension you get with Flats Previously, I had a fretless with TI flats - they were a lovely low tension string, but sometimes felt a bit too low tension

Well, first of all - good on you for just going ahead and asking Scott what odds & ends he had lying around If you hadn't, anything could have happened to this body & neck... who knows You don't see many SD Curlee's around for sale, so part of me just thinks, go ahead & do as complete an original "restoration" as you can... I think I'd be tempted to do it as a custom build that looks "quite a bit like an SD Curlee" - or maybe an SD Curlee which was a custom build one-off - perhaps an unusual colour or finish? Or even an SD Curlee that's been re-finished? Will you be sourcing as close to the orig pickups as possible? Will you be able to do that, or would it be better to fit more modern pickups, or upgraded pickups and electrics? It's a tricky question, and I think you might get several different (and opposing) answers - which might not help you in your dilemma Once completed, will you badge this bass as anything? Will you leave it un-badged / un-branded? Is it an SD Curlee? - probably not, but it's sort of also "the last one" - or is it? Sorry, I've given you more questions than you already had lol

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1497428974' post='3317987'] ..... when I picked it up - it did feel like a slightly chunkier neck than either my Sandberg or Warwick. Kinda hoping that my reasonably large hand reach will mean that I could get used to this, but wondering whether this has been an off-putting factor for others, too? Please do keep your thoughts / views coming - they're always interesting and informative to hear! [/quote] I think for me, Ricks have slightly chunky necks, but I don't find them overly chunky What I think I disliked (a bit) about the 4003 I used to own, was not so much the chunkiness - but the neck didn't seem to taper as much as it does on say, a Fender Jazz. I've not played a Rick with as chunky a neck as an old 70's Fender P I once owned - but again, a chunky neck that doesn't taper noticeably toward the nut is what I think I don't like - again, that's just personal preference. One of the nicest basses I've ever played, and perhaps the best, most comfortable Rick I ever played, belongs to Gelfin of this forum. I've mentioned it before, but he challenges anyone not to like it, and pretty much everyone who has played it (even Rick haters) seem to be won over.... You'd think that such things would be far more universal and without so much variation - but some basses just seem to be better players, or have more "mojo" or just seem easier to bond with..... EDIT: So there are great Ricks out there lol Good luck in your search - maybe just go for the one you really liked - again, it's your money and your choice. Listen to peoples opinions, but bear in mind that they may have just taken a dislike (or stronger) towards a particular brand, and Rick seems to be one of those brands.... BTW. You mention Sandbergs - I've nothing against them, but I tried to bond with a couple, and just couldn't. I tried a couple that one guy was selling, one of the cheaper models and a rather expensive one, and oddly enough the cheaper one felt and sounded the better bass - still not a patch on my RW Precision mind.. but again, it's all about personal taste & preference....

You shouldn't avoid getting one.... If you love the look, feel and sound of a Rick - then get one. I know there are a lot of Rick haters on here, but if it's the bass that does it for you, and you are GASsing after one - then there's only one course of action Like others, I don't care for the CEO very much, but I once bought a car from a salesman I didn't particularly like either - though the car was fine.. I've always liked Ricks, they're just very "different" in appearance and I love the sounds and variety of tone you can get. One of my fave bass players, Paul Grey (ex Damned, Hot Rods, UFO) plays them, and I've always really liked his sound. But as others have noted, they've been used in many genres of music, and always look & sound good. Just wear a sweat band on your right forearm to stop the body edge from digging in.... Also, try thoroughly before you buy - you may find they vary, well, at least in terms of set up, but I had a 4003 and it was pretty damn good, but wasn't the easiest to play - given that I'd played a few. These days, I don't own a Rick, but I've got an old 70's Shaftesbury that I love, and though I rarely play it, for me it's the best "Rick" I've ever played.... Good luck curing your GAS - let us know what you decide to do

[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1497007148' post='3315242'] Bear in mind that if you lower the action you may need to tweak your intonation again! Ideally you should have got your luthier to set the action at the same time he did the intonation. [/quote] I was just about to say the very same thing. Did you pay your luthier for a full set-up? How well do you know him? Could you maybe give him a call, and ask if he could tweak the action for you? just say you're struggling with it, as it's too high (or low) for you. If you paid for a set-up a luthier should normally check how you like the action set Also, what strings have you got on the bass? Have you changed them? A decent set of strings really can make all the difference to the playability and sound of a bass - BUT if you intend to do this, be sure to replace them before you take to the luthier - as a different gauge of string may need another intonation/ action adjustment.... Best of luck with it

[quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1496945248' post='3314925'] I've actually got one of these PB-50 basses, currently stock. Came as a part trade on something else I sold. Cogs be turning after reading this thread! To the guys who did these, how did you nail the headstock shape before taking tools to them? [/quote] Why do I keep finding out you've got even more basses than I previously thought Lewis? lol