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Dood

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Dood last won the day on December 8 2019

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About Dood

  • Birthday 06/01/1918

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  1. Yeah!!!!! Isn’t it always the case that you need that very thing after you’ve consigned it to music gear heaven 🗑️🚮 😄
  2. You and me alike! I have boxes of stuff! I really need to clear it all out!!! (Sadly no suitable bridges but I’ve just PM’d you!)
  3. You absolute legend!!!! Yes please, that’s the kitty!!! PM coming, I really appreciate it, gotta love Basschat!
  4. Yes! Definitely would love to see thank you
  5. https://g-gotoh.com/product/404bo-4/?lang=en I think after lots of searching for a cheap replacement, I’ll keep an eye out for a Gotoh 404BO (or possibly SJ model) - which is in keeping with the whole “MIJ” thing. Gotoh came back with some tech specs, if it’s helpful for anyone else. Minimum string height on these bridges is 11mm for the SJ (Steel saddle) and 10.5mm for the BO (Brass saddle) models.
  6. This is why I love coming to Basschat, there’s always something new and interesting to learn. I looked the names up to see what they meant and this sums up my point about rubbish bass bridges masquerading as “high mass”: Pot metal (or monkey metal) is an alloy of low-melting point metals that manufacturers use to make fast, inexpensive castings.
  7. Nice to see a full HT for the preamp valve, rather than starved plate types. I’m intrigued by this one, I don’t think I ever played through a Marshall Bass State before despite having used plenty of the guitar Valvestate gear in my six stringin’ years. I still want a DBS 7400…
  8. Here ya go! https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Marshall/Marshall_b150.pdf
  9. "Tone Metals!! Do they even matter?"
  10. I remember watching a review somewhere demonstrating what cheap die-casting looked like. When the bridge was bent it just seemed to crumble. Pretty much any bridge under £20 new is probably made from that, or at least, very cheap materials I am sure.
  11. Ahhh ha ha! yes. yes of course! I didn't even think to check the user manual! (Some did have a list of part numbers in, so I like your thinking there!) I did download it a while back, so thank you for the reminder and for searching the bass part number for me too. As for the Schaller, I had my suspicions! They mentioned the brass rollers but nothing else. That's not to say that I don't rate Schaller! The hardware is very well made.
  12. They definitely found their way on to the Power Jazz Basses as stock,(E9 serials I think) but not every year. (Hence wanting to get one or two for my E7 serial PJ’s without them). So, maybe as a Japanese OEM, they are, or rather were out in the wilds! They are really solid bridges and, as I mentioned above, have a tidy quick release; a key-hole method rather than slots in the rear section.
  13. Thank you Stub! I’d had a look through the examples on Amazon. There’s actually a few on there that are manufactured by Sung-Il who make bridges for quite a few “quality bridge” manufacturers (Babicz) and its possible to grab some with steel base plates (though it seems the steel is a bit soft according to reviews). I’m also side-steppping anything that is die-cast. Bridge adverts that don’t specify what they are made of usually means they are and although pretty on the outside are poor under the chrome plating. One of the issues I have with adverts for “high mass” bridges - they look chunky but are made of factory floor sweepings ha ha!! I’m not sure what Ibanez made their bridges out of. I’d expect that the mid-range models at least are zinc. Hmm! Looks wise, we’re on track and, if the saddles went low enough (they don’t) the ABM bridges look superb.
  14. Thank you, I’m hoping that if the price of these is a guidance, the base and. Saddles are also made from brass, or steel, but that information seems to have been omitted from the website. I’ve communicated with Dr Lars himself in the past, I’ll send a message when I’ve narrowed the options down. Cheers!
  15. Thank you for sharing the track, sooo good!
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