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Dood

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Dood

  1. [quote name='jonthebass' post='1023909' date='Nov 14 2010, 08:30 PM']Especially when added with his already 'clanky' sound. I think Dood has investigated/experimented with getting the Duff tone...[/quote] Ahhh indeed! Although I can cheat a bit as I have a Jazz Bass Special too. Drop the Bass down to Eb with twangy roundwound strings - Rotosound Swing Bass being the string of choice in this case. As for the effect, yup Chris' reply is correct. I also read in an interview Duff saying that he used a flanger, but in a rather tongue in cheek reply, he'd said that the settings were secret. I think that if you have a chorus or flanger that has a 'delay' control on it too (which delays the effect part of the signal for anything up to about 100ms on some units) then this will start to add the necessary character as you increase the delay - but don't go too far, or you'll sound like you're playing in a tiled toilet!! I use a TC Electronic G Major 2 - but have also used a G force, in stereo which really adds a nice spatiousness to the bass sound. Other tracks on the same double album, such as Coma, Civil War and defintely Right Nxt Door To Hell show off the more subtle chorusing effect - but I'm definitely leaning toward that full range flange sound (as opposed to using a hi-band flanger, which will sound less squishy!) [quote name='chriswilliams666' post='1024119' date='Nov 14 2010, 11:13 PM']Duff used a Yamaha SPX-90ii in that era for his chorus. But before that a Ibanez CS-9 and a Boss CE-2B. Try any of those![/quote]
  2. [quote name='Jacqueslemac' post='1021754' date='Nov 12 2010, 05:53 PM']Is it possible to add the date and venue to the title? I haven't trawled through the thread to find it and others may be even more lazy than I am. I do know where the Forty Foot Drain is, though.[/quote] I'm happy to edit the title and first post with all the necessary details when it has been squared up. January seems fine to me - though it's really close to my Dad's birthday (a big one) so not 100% sure about my attendance at the moment.
  3. Looks interesting and the social networking connection seems like a good idea to me too (facebook, Youtube, myspace etc) - though I found that some of the tabs wouldn't load on my machine, so I kinda gave up. I think the site is a good one, maybe there's some functionality on that site that BassChat could benefit from in it's own right?
  4. [quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='1022493' date='Nov 13 2010, 02:54 PM']No one puts a pint on top of my rig no matter how level it is[/quote] Last person to do that to my rig is sleeping it off under my patio!
  5. [quote name='funkydario' post='1016769' date='Nov 8 2010, 07:15 PM']I do..TECAMP BONAFIDE does this at 2,2 kg !![/quote] Woh!! I had no idea! That's very cool! - I'm a fan of Thomas's products, right back to Tech Soundsystems days. I like the idea of having two amps in one box - defintely true stereo!
  6. If you don't have a keyboard player - Drop tune you bass to D - then in the choruses play the keyboard melody as well as the bass part. Looks cool, as well as filling in that all too familiar part of the song!
  7. [quote name='jonunders' post='1021191' date='Nov 12 2010, 11:33 AM']i don't want to seem a nerd but what is a bass bash? what happens there and is it good for inexperienced bassists. do you limit the numbers to a first come basis?[/quote] A BassChat BassBash is a bit like BassDay, but waaaaay better! The first Bass Bashs were just a kinda organised get together 'free for all' at a venue kinda central for anyone to come along to. We didn't have a limit to numbers and generally people came and went throughout the day anyway. A fee on the door covered costs and any money left over has been donated to charity or a worthy cause, which I think is brilliant! The latter bashs have been better oganisied and have featured master classes and demos - but my favourite part of these gathering is to be able to check out all your amazing bass gear, Basschat! - Oh and not to mention being able to talk ALL DAY about Bass without fear of anyone in the room glazing over! ha ha! Is it good for inexperienced bassists? Hell yeah, it's practically the law for beginners! I can't think of anywhere better to get advice and learn about bass gear. I've no idea if the venue above has a particular capacity limit - but it looks plenty big enough to me!!! Good work Charic. If it's just £200 quid all day, I'd be more than happy to pay up front - tenner a head?
  8. [quote name='bartelby' post='1020629' date='Nov 11 2010, 08:09 PM']OPETH[/quote] [quote name='Truckstop' post='1020634' date='Nov 11 2010, 08:11 PM']I love Opeth. They are the wick! Truckstop[/quote] I was watching my In Live Concert At The Albert Hall DVDs just yesterday!! Yeah, love 'em. Right now I've cracked open a bit of Textures - Silhouettes is just an album that I keep coming back to - especially the track 'Awake' - and in the morning, my wake up alarm is 'Surreal State Of Enlightenment'. I mean, who couldn't make up to a lovely 13/8 turnaround to start the day?
  9. [quote name='bassface2k10' post='1020441' date='Nov 11 2010, 05:38 PM']Hi BC-ers I have a daughter living and working out in the USA and am wondering If she was to purchase me a Bass for a Christmas present would she have to declare it for import duty when bringing it home back to blighty? Basically what I’m asking is has anyone purchased a bass whilst out in the USA and brought it home and if so what’s the deal, has to be legal etc, any advice would be welcome. All the best Chris[/quote] I guess the obvious answer is the one you know already I think. Technically and according to the law you should declare it and you will be charged excise duty, VAT and probably some mysterious admin on top for good measure! I've certainly heard of people buying overseas then bring basses home in old cases - It's not as if customs have time to search through every guitar case on the off chance there is a new instrument being smuggled in to the country. On the flipside, there have been stories on here in the past about people who have tried to circumnavigate customs charges when shipping items, for example at the wrong value etc, getting caught out then having to try to get their goods back.
  10. [quote name='BottomEndian' post='1020009' date='Nov 11 2010, 01:18 PM']You can also find him on Basschat under his cyber-pseudonym of... er... Steve Lawson. [/quote] Or you can hail him by drawing a backwards Bass Clef on the front of your torch, then shine it up to the sky!
  11. [quote name='Delberthot' post='1013372' date='Nov 5 2010, 02:50 PM']They've pulled the figures out of their ass[/quote] [quote name='stevie' post='1013444' date='Nov 5 2010, 04:03 PM']Arse is spelled a-r-s-e. [/quote] No honestly, they have a paddock loving, carrot crunching pet called Eyore. It's where they keep all their most important documents, including power ratings,
  12. [quote name='Muzz' post='1019244' date='Nov 10 2010, 07:38 PM']I think part of the problem is access to the higher end gear to try it - very often people have to buy without trying themselves, perhaps influenced by the opinions of folk on places like this (I know I have[/quote] Hammer>Nail head - I live in one of the few cities not to be directly connected to the national motorway network and the kinda gear I want up just doesn't get in to the local shops. So BassChat really is the best place to try gear out!
  13. [quote name='EBS_freak' post='1018655' date='Nov 10 2010, 12:19 PM']Norfolk volts are a completely different kettle of fish [/quote] [quote name='icastle' post='1018811' date='Nov 10 2010, 02:12 PM']268V in Norfolk - that'd be because your volts are all running on flat land and not getting tired going uphill like they do here... [/quote] Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!!!! Yes guys, correct on both accounts. It's also due to the build up of additional pressure that electricity has trying to get in and out of the county. The mains supply equivalent of the A11... BIG ROLL OF THE EYES!
  14. That's brilliant! If only to find out where the 'Big Muff' name came from! but there rest (I've seen so far) is making my geeky side happy and fuzzy inside - excuse the pun! ha!
  15. [quote name='charic' post='1018677' date='Nov 10 2010, 12:39 PM']I will update later. Have a possible date and venue lined up after visiting yesterday. I have photos and a floorplan of the venue too I would have posted this earlier but Dood hid this thread in plain sight![/quote] Good work sir!! Speaking of hiding things, I couldn't find my car keys earlier - until I realised that I'd hung them on the floor.
  16. [quote name='bumnote' post='1018592' date='Nov 10 2010, 11:35 AM']Perhaps I should be more blunt. If my Ashdown, Eden, and all my old Acoustic stuff was made prior to 98, designed and manufactured for 240 are running at 230 without problems, why is it an issue with Markbass?[/quote] I don't think there is an issue. Certainly not with banging 268V in to mine here in Naaaaarfolk. [quote name='markbasschat'][b]The change was from 240V to 230V. So it is less than 5% and the voltage was lowered. It means that the change is not critical at all. And I don't think that there is any risk of damage either with Markbass amps or any other equipment. [/b] Equipment from (resonable) manufacturers has to work correctly within the tolerance guaranteed by mains power supplier (you can check the tolerance on Wikipedia). And most probably slightly more. So I would say that the tolerance of +/-20% should be acceptable for most equipment. ......[/quote]
  17. [quote name='icastle' post='1018550' date='Nov 10 2010, 11:01 AM']Don't blow Soldering onto the back of a pot can be difficult. Best way:- 1) sandpaper a small area that you are going to solder onto - this allows the solder to run smoothly and stops "blobs" appearing. 2) prepare the wire you are wanting to solder onto the pot - get it stripped and make sure you tin it. 3) with enough solder on the end of the iron to make it wet, heat up the back of the pot and every couple of seconds try pushing some solder to the area you are heating to see if it melts. 4) as soon as it melts, add enough solder to cover the area you have pre sanded - you are after a smooth layer of solder, not a half round shape. 5) keeping your iron in the solder flow, quickly push the prepared wire into the mass. 6) stay very very still for at least a minute 7) sorted [/quote] Ha ha ha!! beat me to it! but glad we have a similar method!
  18. [quote name='dave_bass5' post='1018529' date='Nov 10 2010, 10:52 AM']While i have your attention, any tips on soldering the ground wires to the back of the pot? Ive done it but it looks a bit messy. Cheers again.[/quote] Yup, most pots have a shiny finish on the back that is a nightmare to solder to. I use an emery board (or fine sand paper) to take the finish off in a small area, usually an edge. I then prep the newly exposed area by tinning it in the same way that you'd tin fresh wires prior to soldering. You'll find that when you place your wires on to the area and heat all at the same time, the solder will flow alot easier in to the joint when you feed it in with your third free hand!! Oh and because it takes longer for the back of the pot to cool down, wait an extra 30 seconds before moving your hand, because you can guarantee that you hadn't waited long enough for the solder to solidify!! (I always manage to do it if I haven't soldered for a while!!) On the subject of dry joints, I owned some really ghastly solder that just would not 'weld' neatly. It always crystalised and looked brittle.. bin bin bin!!
  19. [quote name='LawrenceH' post='1018234' date='Nov 9 2010, 10:57 PM']This is great! Thanks so much. Very glad I asked this question as no-one's referred to these other jumpers. MarkBassChat, welcome to bass chat and thanks for the clarifications, if you look in the bottom right of your posts you'll see you can edit them so if you want to make things clearer that's an option. Having said that.. According to wikipedia you're correct in that the UK as of 2008 is on 230V +10%/-6%. Most of the EU is on 230+/-10%. So probably the 230V setting would be appropriate, though hopefully I'm right in assuming either would be fine. I'm quite surprised that there is actually a difference in terms of required jumper settings, it makes me wonder if the F1 is going to be a temperamental amp when it comes to things like outside gigs using generators, long cables etc.[/quote] Hey Lawrence! Ah that's interesting - It'd be an idea for the UK to be the same as Europe to make life a bit easier when taking electrical goods over seas. - The amp I took settings from was a 2007 unit - so I wonder if newer ones are actually set to 230V for the UK market? Hmmm! Interesting stuff here! Incidently, in the name of science - I just check the mains supply in to my house - I'm receiving 268V AC at the moment! So quite a leap and a bit higher than the 10% tolerance expected. All good stuff!
  20. [attachment=63539:UK240VF1a.jpg] [attachment=63540:UK240VF1b.jpg] OK, here we go - as clear as needs to be I think. disclaimer taken as read - this change voids warranty and should be carried out by qualified service personnel.
  21. [quote name='MarkBassChat' post='1018163' date='Nov 9 2010, 09:40 PM']Hmm, I'm sorry - my mistake. I thought that you have 230V (so the photo I posted is [b]for 230V only[/b]). Please disregard my previous post in this case. Please post a photo of this little jumper. F1 is class-D amp with a switching power supply (with maybe not the best stabilization) and 10V difference may case some problems with the power amp. Mark[/quote] Hey it's ok! it's an easy mistake to make. You were absolutely right for a 230V supply and stuck to your guns, because there's the future of an amp at stake. Ok, I'll upload the pic I have just taken of a UK F1. For utmost clarity for future readers, it is marked as '240V' on the label.
  22. Hi Mark, thank you for the additional information and pictures, that's brilliant. I'll just echo what iCastle has said though. Although I have seen (and owned) amps that happily worked in the UK on a 230V setting (Ampeg SVP for example) the Uk's supply is 240 Volts (kinda average as it can fluctuate.) If it helps, to clarify, I can get a picture of a UK F1 inside for clearer pics of those lil jumpers.
  23. I'll make this one sticky so that any updates are visible.
  24. It would be very interesting to hear how the Stac and the F500 compare tonally. They seem quite similar on paper - (if you take the tuner, compressor, tube tone and programability out of the equation!)
  25. [quote name='LawrenceH' post='1017946' date='Nov 9 2010, 06:44 PM']Yeah good eh?[/quote] Hell yeah! I'm glad you asked the questioned - otherwise I would have been hassling for flippyfloop in the For Sale forum to sell his F500 instead of trading! [quote name='LawrenceH' post='1017946' date='Nov 9 2010, 06:44 PM'].... - but are we talking about an internal fuse or just the one in the plug?[/quote] There is a fuse in the holder underneath the IEC power socket. No need to lift the lid. Infact there should be a spare fuse in the other half of the little drawer too. The F1 I have here (a UK model) has a 3.15A fuse in it. Sorry I didn't check if it was a fast blow or a surge type. The fuse in the mains plug is designed to protect the lead and can be 13A.
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