Dood

[quote name='bubinga5' post='956353' date='Sep 14 2010, 06:39 PM']i would say your talking to the right man to advise you if you want J Shuker to build you a bass, he will know what pickups you need to achieve the sound you want.... why not just ask him, thats what your paying him for....the guy knows his sh*t like the best in the world... IMO there are too many options to choose from unless you have tried them all in lots of basses like a luthier has..[/quote] I have to type "+1 Million" to reply to this post. Jon has an incredible attention to detail and if you were to give him examples of the tones you like - he'll nail them! JJ Burnell was very happy with his bass ) - oh - and if the pickup doesn't exist that you want, he'll know where to go to get it made!

Hi guys, to add to the discussion, I have a CIJ PB70US-BLK (Which I believe like your xxUS Jazz will have the same larger keys than the PB-70). I upgraded from the standard chrome keys to gold and bought a really nice set of Wilkinsons off ebay. Now, personally I prefer these over the likes of the Schaller fender replacements because the Wilkinson tuner 'key' is longer and makes the key stand higher away from the headstock - I like. Oh, interestingly the Wilkinsons look exactly the same as the stock key that came off my bass - I mean - exactly the same, Wilkinson could have done OEM's for Fender! Anyway - quick ebay search found them for you - here's a few links: (The first has the dimensions on) [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-Line-Gold-Wilkinson-Open-Frame-Bass-Tuners-/150490895005?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2309f4d29d"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-Line-Gold-Wilkinso...=item2309f4d29d[/url] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wilkinson-black-bass-guitar-tuners-No-12-13-/140325330591?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item20ac0a9e9f"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wilkinson-black-bass...=item20ac0a9e9f[/url] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wilkinson-BLACK-Open-Frame-Fender-Style-Bass-Tuners-/370413982335?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item563e64d27f"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wilkinson-BLACK-Open...=item563e64d27f[/url] Finally, if you would like to compare the shape of your keys, I have a thread about my upgrades that shows both new and old keys in situ: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=87360"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=87360[/url]

It'd be great up until the point that someone approached you car and asked what tackle and bait you favoured. *smacks forehead*.

If you're in any doubt, I recommend sending a mail to EMG support. I think the guy I usually end up chatting to, Rick is always very helpful and knows his stuff. - I have seen EMG harmesses and components come up on eBay - so hopefully armed with the necessary component information, you might be able to pick up a bargain.

No problem at all! Pleasure!

[quote name='ahpook' post='953915' date='Sep 12 2010, 07:57 PM']/backs away waving hands/ this is electricty folks....someone could get hurt ! [/quote] Yup - I'm out - better things to do than have a p*ssing match. [/unsubscribed]

[quote name='Daquifsta' post='953864' date='Sep 12 2010, 07:19 PM']Just to throw a spanner in the Donkey, the EMG pickup set I have in my bitsajazz, which came with a pre-wired loom, said to use 9v, OR 18v for 'more headroom'. Now, despite being a mechanical engineer, and not a 'lecky one - I do get the idea of the whole -9, 0, +9 situation, since we're in the context of AC voltage here, but there is definitely not a connection to the 0v between my two batteries. Have EMG done something clever?[/quote] Yes, you are quite correct - it is also possible to derive a '0V' line by using a simple circuit design without the need to take a third cable from the batteries.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='953855' date='Sep 12 2010, 07:07 PM'] Lots of experts round here! I clearly said I didnt know enough and a little bit of knowledge is dangerous but I do know enough to see if someone else doesnt! Its like asking about a car problem then someone writing 2 pages all about it then telling you they didnt realise your car had an engine! Im not going to get anymore drawn in now I promise [/quote] {actually - I'll remove this post - I can't be arsed..}

[quote name='Charlottetat' post='953742' date='Sep 12 2010, 05:53 PM']Hi - Charlotte here. I play double bass - used to be classical but now I've a penchent for combining double bass with electronic music I'm a bit out of practice so joined today hoping to be inspired to get gigging with the old beast again. Toodle pip![/quote] Hey! Welcome aboard! Well - You've come to the right place!

Does the head look like this little chap? If it is, then here's some information: [quote]3005 Lead 12 Micro Stack, 12W head The 3005 was in production from 1985 upto 1991. It's a transistorised Master Volume head and it's the head version of the 5005 combo. It was produced in black, white, red and green vinyl. In 1987 (the Silver Jubilee year) it was produced in silver vinyl and a chrome face plate. The cabinets were fitted with a 10" Celestion G10D-25 T3552 16Ω speaker.[/quote]

[quote name='Lord Sausage' post='953679' date='Sep 12 2010, 04:32 PM']Someone has just given me a little Marshall head call a Lead 12. I have no speakers at home to try it out(All at fellow band members). Anyone know anything about them?[/quote] Yup! I have a 'Bass 12' combo still. It was a present from my Dad when I first started playing. It *could* be one of the early models - which I believe were late 80's - or it could be one of the more recent models - maybe mid 90's at a guess. I'm not sure if the newer versions had a different name though. It's a 12 Watt single channel head. My Bass 12 has an 8 Ohm 10" bass speaker and I know that the Lead 12 was able to drive two similarly small cabinets each with a ten inch guitar speaker. Not a bad little amp actually! The power amp section in both the bass amp and guitar amp were exactly the same - I have the schematics somewhere - but I know they are available on the net. I'll find you a link in a sec. The preamp sections were a simialr topology - though the guitar one was obviously designed to distort and have less bottom end.

[quote name='lowdown' post='953568' date='Sep 12 2010, 02:33 PM']I am glad you asked - it's been a comical read...with a bit of mines bigger than yours thrown in Garry[/quote] [quote name='EdwardHimself' post='953629' date='Sep 12 2010, 03:37 PM']My advice would be to not worry yourself about it and get whichever you think sounds better whether it be 18, 9, 2, 27v whatever...[/quote] Or!!! PASSIVE

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='953504' date='Sep 12 2010, 12:49 PM']All lies. SVT 2 is the ULTIMATE TONE. Any second hand valve amp should probably have a going over by a tech. Stitch in time and all.[/quote] I really loved my SVT2! I wonder where it is now?

[quote name='chilisfan16' post='953514' date='Sep 12 2010, 12:56 PM']Hey guys. I'm a bass player who's used to using combo amps, and i've decided to start searching for seperate heads and cabinets. What i'm wanting to ask the most is, do most heads and cabs both use mains connections (ie plugs) or do they use batteries at all? Thanks a lot for the help guys.[/quote] Hi Chilisfan, Yes, pretty much all amplifer 'heads' on the market use a mains connection. Cabinets (unless they contain active electronics*) do not have a mains connection. Much like your home hifi - you connect the mains to the amplifier and then a cable to carry the audio from the amplifier to the cabinet. The reason why you will not see bass amplifiers using batteries - is that it requires a great deal of 'power' to turn those very small guitar signals into window shaking volume - and batteries simply wouldn't last long enough to make it worth it AND you'd need SO many it wouldn't be a marketable idea. However, you can buy little amplifiers for busking - usually only a few watts in power output that can run off batteries. They wouldn't be any good in a rock band though! You'd never hear them up against an acoustic drum kit! *Some manufacturers, such as Bergantino and ISP Technologies place an amplifer inside the speaker cabinet - you may have seen PA cabinets with volume and EQ controls on? (I can think of Wharfedale and Mackie as examples). These are known as 'Active' or 'Powered' speakers. But in the main, companies such as Ampeg, Harke,Ashdown, SWR and many many more do not offer active or powered systems to Bass Players

Although I can't comment on the other units - I would like to upgrade you from the Line6 XT to the X3 Live instead. - The XT only allows you to run one signal path at a time. ie: Bass> XT in>Pedal>Amp>Cab>Mic>effects> out Whereas the X3 allows you to run two totally seperate signal paths, for example: Bass> X3 in1>Synth Pedal>Bass Amp>Cab>Mic>Stereo chorus> out X3 in2>Distortion Pedal>Guitar Amp>Cab>Mic>stereo multitap delay> out In the above example I have given you a clean STEREO bass tone with a synth sound mixed with a distorted guitar tone with Stereo delay - both mixed at the left and right outputs. Kinda the sort of thing you'd be looking to do with that little Hysteria ditty they do ) - Use a distorted guitar amp patch with the bass, instead of 'pedal distortions' to give a more realistic 'distorted amp' tone. I am sure there are better units out there - but this is one I use as described.

[quote name='ahpook' post='953478' date='Sep 12 2010, 12:37 PM']techy, but perfectly correct....[/quote] Totally agree! More detail than I was prepared to go for - but If it helps, I'll do it next time!

SlyStewart, I you refering to the red peak light on the front of the amplifier? The light flickering is less likely to be an indication of a fault with the amplifier - only that you are driving the input gain towards distortion. Now - if you actually WANT to have a dirty distorted tone - then you WILL see this led on rather a lot! - However, if you don't - and want a nice clean signal - have a look at the SVT 2 manual as I'm pretty sure it will tell you how to set the gain correctly. It will not hurt if it flickers only occasionally on your hardest playing. If you are finding that the LED is STILL on all the time even with the input gain set low - you'll need to engage the 'pad' button that will reduce the level from your bass in to the input of the preamp. You'll then be able to readjust the gain control so that the LED flickers every now and then for a clean tone. As I mentioned earlier, if you want a dirty tone - bringing the gain control up (along with the drive control) will force the preamp to eventually distort and give you that 'gnarly Ampeg tone'. The LED will come on a lot more. As for your drop in 'power' - well - that *could* be attributed to the need for a service - but it's not possible to tell without being able to take a look at it. How long have the valves been in it? have you changed them at all and when? Have you noticed any other extraneous noise? Hiss? Lack of 'tone' - i.e sounding wooly? - When do you find te volume drops - and is it instantaneous? or a slow drop? If nothing else, as my good man Ste has mentioned above, drop the amp in to a tech to have a look at

[quote name='PaulWarning' post='952879' date='Sep 11 2010, 04:51 PM']also try www.we7.com same thing but no need to download any software[/quote] Ahh I'll take a look at that. I also like to trawl last.fm to listen to streamed tracks too.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='952985' date='Sep 11 2010, 06:31 PM']Sorry I do appologise that did come out a bit arsey! But your background to me is not important if you are telling with some authority all about this stuff but do not think a preamp contains a cmos chip? Its not a life and death matter really is it but someone who knows there onions would be able to wrap this up.As I said I know a little and a little knowledge is dangerous so Im staying out of it so you can carry on as you were,Ta.[/quote] Yup, you certainly did! I forgive you though. CMOS aside, I felt that my examples of how raising the supply rail voltage can affect headroom and some real world examples were satisfactory to describe at least two benefits. Again, I expected to remain in layman's terms and without disecting the other posts too much did not feel it necessary to display any electronic prowess in my post. ok CMOS - yes, it IS possible to get terms confused - I'm certainly no expert, but then - never assert that anyway lol lol. However, to my defence - an audio chip does not have to be CMOS. - for the sake of moving on - I'll leave that discussion to the rest of the internet as it's not really relevant to the 9/18v OP.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='952890' date='Sep 11 2010, 05:03 PM']Im not being funny Dood but you are talking tripe mate! Like I said before I dont know enough to make a proper statement on this but I know enough from your last few replies that nor do you? Im not going to get too involved in this but for a start all 2EQ Stingrays contain a cmos LM4250CN IC chip.Voltage does not work like you say either (I am an electrician!)and a cmos chip will work down to 5V which I as just said ARE found in these circuits and I imagine most.Im going to leave it at that as I dont feel either of us know enough on this one and it will become a silly flawed debate.[/quote] Well, I'll certainly concede over the CMOS part - that's fine - but as I said in my post, I was endeavouring to not be too techy as not to get in to too much detail. However to suggest I don't know what I am talking about is a wee bit silly as you don't really know anything about my background. I certainly haven't done the same to you, have I? I'm just trying to offer a [b]simplistic response[/b] to the OP.

[quote name='molan' post='952022' date='Sep 10 2010, 05:13 PM']So - little addendum to my TC Electronics thoughts. Having got close to a sound I wanted out of my RH450 when rehearsing I was still coming up a bit short on my old favourite '80's mid-scoop sound. Still lacking that top end zing I've always liked. Went out and read lots of reviews & comparisons on the Staccato '51 and decided to take the plunge and bought one to test back to back with the RH450. I have to say I'm amazed at how different they sound 'out of the box'. I knew the frequency centres had all been changed & the top end had been opened up but the core sound of the amp seems different to me as well. Feels like there's some compression dialled in even when it's set flat & maybe a little more drive through the TubeTone as well. I'm very happy to say that the base sound with everything set flat is pretty much exactly what I was after - couldn't believe just how 'right' it sounded to me. I knew I'd like some of the top end but was worried it might be a bit too bottom heavy for me having read about this in some reviews but it's just great! The factory setting wasn't actually with everything set flat, it had the compression & the tube tone at 12:00 and this sounded very nice too, touch too much compression (although this was quite dependent on which bass was running through it). I then had a go at replicating a 'stock' RH450 tone, got vaguely close but still hearing more top end, may need to play with that a bit. Of course the big clincher is the colour - I haven't seen a single pic that really does the bright metallic red finish any sort of justice Anyone else here got/tried a Staccato - I haven't spotted any yet?[/quote] Barrie and I have been havin' a good chinwag via PM, Indeed an RH450 and controller has arrived at Dood Towers for a bit of playtime too Comments will be forthcoming in time!

[quote name='markstuk' post='952788' date='Sep 11 2010, 03:13 PM']Found the following over on BGRA - may have some perspective... "Bartolini: "NS2TMB-183", 18 Volts. Bass This is Bill Bartolini's latest and most refined design. It is quieter and more transparent than anything else out there (108 dB S/N, THD .003% @ 100Hz) and really sounds good. To quote from the spec sheet "The (bipolar) +9V/ -9V system allows a completely DC coupled signal path. There are no capacitors to diminish in any way the low end punch, clarity and frequency response of the instrument". Bill has used wide bands that overlap slightly to avoid the honky sound of other midrange controls. The 250Hz mid could be useful as a cut option when recording." Now all we need to know are the benefits of a completely DC coupled signal path :-)[/quote] Over complicating things now! I'm trying to stay away from being too tech - but the [i]idea[/i] being discussed above is that the more passive components you add to a signal path (such as resistors and capacitors) the greater likelihood that distortion, phase change or noise will be added to the signal passing through them. If you can design a circuit with fewer of those components then *hopefully* you will have a cleaner siganl path. The bipolar design tries to deal with that issue by balancing the powersupply around a reference 0v ground.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='952732' date='Sep 11 2010, 02:17 PM']Im not an expert but I think cmos chips only run up to 15v (like my Ray preamp etc) headroom would not be found if you put 18v round it! So like I said they are obviously different chips if they are 18v circuits.[/quote] Bass preamps won't be CMOS. That specification is more likely to be found in control systems, not audio.