HowieBass

I bet that wasn't cheap...

Great to see the pair of you with the finished instrument

Fender Rumble 40 V3 - costs about £195. I think a few BCers have this 40W version, others have the larger and more powerful 100W and 500W variants.

Can we expect to see a bicep development photo diary from you any time soon?

Looking at the schematic for the SE2-A it seems to have all the necessary wires for the pickup (replacing the blend pot in your case), the volume pot, the battery clip and the output jack connected together via the preamp circuit board itself. The piezo ground doesn't get connected to the volume pot, it gets connected to the preamp. This suggests that if there was a spare grounding wire already soldered to the back of the volume pot (and not connected to the preamp circuit board via the dedicated connector) then this would be intended to be a bridge ground wire, as you indicated earlier - I think this could be removed rather than being connected to the output jack ground. As for trying to ground the strings when you have a wooden bridge, I've read that some people have an arrangement where they have a metal retaining rod threaded through the string ball ends which then gets fed via a grounding wire to the output jack - though some have argued this isn't needed.

Yeah I spotted the two dual concentric pots so I guessed you had Vol, Blend, Treble/Bass, Mid/Freq but I wasn't sure about the toggle switches (series/parallel, coil split maybe?)

How will the EQ function?

Sounds like there's a grounding wire/connection to ground missing somewhere but without seeing how you've done it I can't offer much advice and I know pretty much nothing about piezo bridges though I can't see it being much different than any standard active bass wiring schematic bar the bridge ground wire.

So basically (sic) we're all control freaks

[quote name='lemmywinks' timestamp='1433511651' post='2791723'] So if I take the presoldered wire coming off the volume pot body and attach it to the jack socket ground lug (along with the usual ground cable coming from the pre it should be ok? [/quote] Yes I reckon this is the minimum grounding you'll need to do; obviously if you shield the control cavity with foil you'll have to ground that as well.

I like the colour combo, especially the matching headstock!

Definitely worth keeping, you won't know how good/bad/indifferent it sounds until it's strung up and plugged in but you can't really go wrong for what you paid. If it seems in good condition then the frets probably don't have much wear - what it will need is a decent set-up (neck relief, intonation, action) and you can find out about those things online (Google/YouTube) and on here. You ought to be able to get a replacement pickup height adjustment screw fairly easily (try eBay or maybe someone on here could donate a spare). Welcome to Basschat and have fun!

I know you don't do sound clips but I'd be VERY keen to hear what this one sounds like!

All ground wires, irrespective of how they are interconnected, should always end up at the jack socket ground tag - sometimes they're arranged in a daisy chain running from pot to pot (which I suspect is done more for neatness than electrical reasons). If something has a ground wire (like the volume pot) then it needs to be grounded.

The output jack has a signal and a ground connection, I would have thought that any ground wires on any electrical components go to their usual places?

Ah, what I really meant is what are the ratios - I was imagining octave and fifth above the bass string, which, after a quick Google, is in fact one suggested option - another common tuning is both guitar strings tuned to the octave above. http://www.12stringbass.net/master.htm?http://www.12stringbass.net/tunings.htm

So you'll put a couple of grooves in every other saddle for the 'guitar' strings? By the way, how the hell do you tune a 12 string?

Are you modifying the bridge? I only see 8 holes for the strings to pass through at the back of the casting...

Pics...

If it is a dead spot (and right now it sounds like one more than anything else to me) then at least it's in a place where you can mostly forget about it - other instruments often have them in far less forgiving positions.

I think I'm right in saying that Cort build these (they do the Skylines anyhow) so I'd expect it to be a pretty decent instrument indeed! Happy NBD!

They're working their way through a lot of bass players are they? Reminds me of this... http://youtu.be/Q9YL0yHohts

Stunning... as ever!

I'm under the impression that dead spots span more than a single fret/note where you would indeed find that sustain was reduced either side of the dead spot itself. You could try holding the tip of the headstock against a wall as you play the G at the 24th just to see if the sustain improves - my Curbow 5 suffers from a dead spot at the 16th fret on the G and sustain is reduced either side but when I hold the headstock against a wall the sustain improves markedly. Also, from what I've seen of pictures of BTBs online the 24th is the final fret for the G and D strings (it has a 'wavy' end to the fretboard?) so it can't be a bad fret.

Ask him if they do any Gary Numan covers because your mate Alan Partridge is interested...