HowieBass

Yeah I line mine up so that the fixing screws or markers (when present) are all in the same orientation when fully on/off, though the direction with respect to the bass body varies from instrument to instrument since no two are the same model.

Another thing to mention when playing seated, is that a strap can still be useful, especially if you've had problems with neck dive previously.

I've never seen one done but that doesn't mean you can't/shouldn't! I imagine it might sound rather more like a double bass than other fretless instruments which may or may not be the sound you're after. If you want the Jaco sound then the Squier fretless Jazz will get you a lot closer and you can get away with using roundwounds on the Ebonol fingerboard without undue wear.

You might benefit from using a decent wide padded strap like the Comfort Strapp; quite a few people on here have similar bass weight/pain issues and have positive results when using decent straps. This might allow you to play something like a P bass again (with flats) and I can recommend Squier as well, especially the Vintage Modified and Classic Vibe series. You don't say where you are and what access you have to decent music stores around you but if you get a good strap first then try a few basses and see what you can handle - I think Epiphones are made by the Cort factory these days (who also make the Squier range) so ought to be pretty good quality in case you go for a semi-acoustic instrument.

I knew I'd get confused between gauge and tension LOL. I know the idea is increase the tension for the lower strings and reduce the tension for the higher strings so you get a better balance across the neck but I don't know how the gauges run (where you often get a .02" change from string to string on a normal even scale bass).

I like the creamy white finish! Happy NDBD

[quote name='ead' timestamp='1420998146' post='2655998'] I quite enjoyed them, but moved mine on in the end. I can't quite get the idea of the Super P & J where the scale length on the upper strings is shorter than a Fender. Presumable to go for heavier strings, seems to fly in the face of the purpose of a Dingwall. [/quote] I think that shorter strings (as with say the G and D) on a fanned fret instrument can be lighter for the same tuning compared to 34" or longer scale length, that way you get a better balance of tension across the neck.

But not as much aluminium as a Travis Bean or a Kramer!

I'm putting my arts hat on now to ask you about your work - you've probably gone through this with any crits you've already had but is your work about loss and/or injustice? There's clearly a very human element regarding the subject matter and the music is devoid of the human voice (which you could take as significant by its absence... ). You'll have seen Koyaanisqatsi but have you seen Ron Fricke's 'Baraka' and 'Samsara'? Fricke has created some really amazing work!

Are you going to extend the piece? I think it deserves to be longer! Had a look at your signature and I can see why you like Basinski - I've only just discovered his work recently, I like 'Aurora Liminalis' the joint piece he's done with Richard Chartier (joked on my Tumblr that I might mischievously play that loud at say 3am and have my neighbours thinking they'd woken up in Hell after some apocalyptic disaster... ). You'll probably like this too, a film by Bill Morrison with music by Michael Gordon... http://youtu.be/cf9ah8IUVgw

[quote name='88reaper88' timestamp='1420907852' post='2654878'] Am I wrong in thinking adjusting the truss rod for a high action isn't the way to do it? Surely the main way of adjusting the action is at the bridge and nut? The high action will mess the intonation up, especially if there's a big bow in the neck. [/quote] Correct.

Never seen a drop tuner on the bridge like that (which is a Steinberger). I'd be playing that if I owned it.

I only set the neck relief with a string held down at the 1st and 17th frets (and aim for about .012") whereas for the action I measure without fretting a string at the 1st and that seems to work well for me.

Needs more Louis Balfour...

Yeah I go for the Fender recommended heights, 6/64" (2.4mm) for the E at the 17th and 5/64" (2mm) for the G at the 17th. The low B on my Curbow 5 gets just a touch more height than 6/64", about 2.6mm.

A J type bass I suppose in that the pickups are single coils in the same relative position as with a Fender/Squier Jazz? However with the 2 pot EQ I can't work out if that's a passive tone per pickup or an active 2-band.

I, like many others, like flats on a P bass, something about the combination of split coil pickup in that position and flats offering a warm round tone. I'm using Fender flats on that P and on a Cort fretless and they're not as dull as I remember the Rotosounds I used many years ago; they're quite zingy for flats. Since they don't cost much for a set it's not such a huge gamble.

A friend of a friend runs his own guitar building course (he trained at Leeds College of Music) in the Greater Manchester area http://www.guitarbassbuild.co.uk/ but that might not be convenient for you to attend. Other luthiers will undoubtedly offer similar, just a case of finding them nearby.

I think it'll be down to the calloused fingertips being very dry - apparently some people (esp older) have this issue and you can fix it to some extent by using moisturiser... so maybe not something to do immediately prior to playing your bass?

I just checked the specs and it says it weighs 22kg?!?! My old solid state amp head (flightcased mind) weighed more than that! Happy Loud Cab Day!

Great stuff!

I think some slight popping is inevitable on toggle switches (due to contact bounce I believe) but make sure that the sound you heard wasn't residual switch cleaner inside the contacts - in other words have you tried it after the spray evaporated fully?

I doubt the pots would have any crud inside them if they're new. It's not uncommon to find a little dust inside a control cavity, just blow it out. The wiggling fix suggests a loose/intermittent connection somewhere - if you don't know anything about how to wire up a passive bass take it to a tech.