HowieBass

I like BassTheWorld's channel http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXvoRZ4JQezyPxWtUZ9QmWg

Well, we know that the harmonics occur at 5, 7, 9 and 12 fret positions and it seems logical to replicate markers in the same relative positions for the next octave up (17, 19, 21 and 24) which leaves the marker at the 3rd (and sometimes 1st) fret position. This is perhaps where aesthetics (symmetry) enters where we have this common arrangement |__*_*_*_*__| as nut (open string), 2 gaps, marker (3rd), gap, marker (5th), gap, marker (7th), gap, marker (9th), 2 gaps, marker (12th/octave).

Really good news; very pleased to know that the bass is back in action!

[quote name='topo morto' timestamp='1393098463' post='2376245'] Isn't that PC only? [/quote] Yep didn't see the Mac reference until I'd already posted about ASIO4ALL so maybe try this? http://download.cnet.com/USB-Audio-ASIO-driver/3000-2120_4-6405.html

Might be worth trying ASIO4ALL to see if this reduces the latency [url="http://www.asio4all.com/"]http://www.asio4all.com/[/url] ... ah scratch that, you're not using Windows

You're looking at cabs to pair with a Genz Benz head right? I'm sure there are going to be differences between various cabs based on what drivers are in them and if they feature tweeters that can be adjusted and to make life simpler for myself I'd probably just go with a Genz Benz cab - I imagine that the head was probably tested (and optimised?) mostly with these anyway?

[quote name='Prosebass' timestamp='1393064735' post='2375725'] Option 2 as it looks hideous as is. Open up the original holes, fill the 'extra' holes with glued in dowel, read up on veneering and put a 0.6mm veneer on the front and back of the headstock, finish off with a nice roller string tree, simples.... [/quote] This +2 ... also you might look into having a waterslide decal made to cover the repair where the two tuning pegs currently sit...

No I think you're definitely in the right and have a perfectly valid reason for cancelling the sale - you have in writing their comment that the case is not suitable for a bass after initially claiming that it can accommodate a bass (unless it's like the bloody TARDIS). If they start arguing the case then open a dispute.

Essentially four types of string - roundwound, flatwound, groundwound and tapewound which refer to the profile of the windings around the central core. Roundwound is a round cross section winding, flatwound is a flat ribbon, groundwound starts out as a round winding which is then ground down after winding so that it resembles a flatwound and tapewound has an outer plastic layer over a roundwound inner. Roundwounds have a rougher feel compared to all the others though nickel roundwounds feel smoother than steel roundwounds. Nickel roundwounds usually sound a little warmer in tone (or 'darker') than steel roundwounds. Flatwounds sound much less bright than roundwounds, they are more 'thuddy'. Roundwounds lose their bright character over time but flatwounds tend to retain their tone for far longer (since they have less 'brightness' to lose). Groundwounds are a compromise between a flatwound feel and a roundwound sound but will be more expensive than either. Tapewounds will feel like flatwounds but are (I think) supposed to sound like roundwounds (I've never tried them). A low action means the string is nice and low over the fingerboard, close to the fret (if it's a fretted bass) or close to the fingerboard surface itself (for a fretless). It requires less pressure to fret (or stop the string) with a low action but fret noise increases the lower you go and too low an action will probably choke the note when it's played (so you lose the tone/energy of the played note).

You're probably into dead spot territory there - many basses suffer with a couple of places on the neck where a note will sound weaker and sustain for a shorter time. What's happening is that the neck will have a resonant frequency similar to the dead spot notes and that's sapping energy from the string vibration. You might be able to 'move' the dead spot slightly to a frequency not corresponding to a played note by tweaking the truss rod a little (changing the neck stiffness) but that obviously compromises your action. You can buy a gadget that is essentially just a metal weight to clamp to the headstock which increases the mass of the neck - again an attempt to change the resonant frequency, but that might induce neck dive. You're not alone in having a bass with a few weak notes and generally, the stiffer the neck the better it will be in having few or no dead spots at all (which is why I think Fender put graphite rods in new instrument necks).

Wouldn't 'R' stand for 'Rear' pickup? I've a B4FL and have both pickups set at essentially the same height which, as I think you're suggesting, means the rear/bridge pickup has a higher output than the front/neck pickup (which I find convenient as I have a makeshift ramp between both PUs with everything at about the same height).

Needs more KatieJane Garside http://youtu.be/7hWoJy0eCJo

Thanks for the feedback on Thomann, I should be getting a full refund for the bass I'm returning (to a UK based retailer) so will probably be looking again at ordering a P or PJ bass next week - I suppose I know that Squiers are going to be less of a lottery than the other budget brands.

Any consensus on the hit rate for good examples of these inexpensive J&D and Harley Benton basses? I'm sending back a new Vintage V4 P bass because it was genuinely horrible, the sound didn't inspire me and the number of cosmetic flaws sufficient to make me never want to bother with the thing (shoddy finish in several places including the neck pocket, skewiff scratchplate screws, warped scratchplate, strings not evenly spaced across the neck, nut slots too high and the worst BBOT bridge I've ever encountered). I'm tempted by the Harley Benton PJ-4 HTR Bass but fear getting another lemon so maybe I should go for another Squier (like the VM PJ).

I think the thing about Fenders is, as has already been suggested, lineage, both in terms of Fenders being the first production line electric bass so there are now rather a lot of them about and the fact the company as well as the instruments themselves having been through several changes. Natural variability in woods and variances in production (for both better or worse) has created a family of instruments which like wine sees good years and not so good years and good instruments are usually selected for use in preference to mediocre instruments, hence often the best basses will become road worn whilst the mediocre basses get left at home. What I've yet to see is some kind of vintage bass chart that immediately suggests which years to go for, for basses from various manufacturers, eg. the Japanese Squier Silver series (?) (not unlike this vintage wine chart http://www.bbr.com/vintage-chart here), though I'm sure the information is out there. Maybe an idea for a sticky thread somewhere?

Regarding free drum machine software, I can't comment about how it integrates with software such as Reaper, but I have heard some good things about Hydrogen (though there hasn't been an update of the Windows version for a few years) http://sourceforge.net/projects/hydrogen/

The dot markers will be something like plastic or abalone shell - the dot markers on my Westone are (I think) plastic and I'd expect the rosewood to have been dyed after the markers had been applied and they certainly didn't take any of the dye. You might just have to try dabbing a little on to a dot marker (say with a cotton bud dipped in dye) and see what happens...

Don't forget Cort, great instruments for the money (and they make many basses for other people, Squier and Ibanez included).

I bought a pack of these (from Asda rather than eBay) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Velcro-Straps-Cable-Ties-250mm-x-12mm-Multi-Coloured-Re-usable-10-Pack-New-/231161116516?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item35d246b764 and they work well enough as a fretwrap (they should go around the neck at the nut about twice). You could try one just behind the nut to see if that helps supress unwanted vibrations/harmonics.

Hi, I've got a Westone bass that had a stained rosewood fingerboard from new. It originally looked almost black (to match the rest of the body) but over many years of being played and then cleaned it has got lighter - other owners haven't liked this and have wanted to maintain the dark appearance and I've heard that you can indeed use leather dye to make rosewood darker hued. I actually like the way it's lightened a little so I'm leaving mine as is but I think the colour you'd want would be very dark purple.

If you have a fretless it's fun creating sliding harmonics too

Yes, and I usually associate a stop with fretless playing ('cos you obviously can't fret the string), so a double stop could well be the root and 5th and then with care you can do a sliding double stop (whilst trying to maintain the correct intonation).

There are a couple of threads on here concerning budget Jazz basses from Jack & Danny via DV247 like this http://www.dv247.com/guitars/jandd-jb-vintage-1975-bass-guitar-black--200784 and the Harley Benton via Thomann like this http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_hbb1975_na.htm and buyers seem pretty happy with their purchases. I hear that Laney and Peavey make pretty decent budget bass combos, I'd recommend at least 100W output so maybe something like this http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Peavey-MAX112-MKII-Bass-Combo-Amplifier/U6R and either of the Jazzes get you in for £400 new.

I've a Luthite bodied Tanglewood (actually a Cort) Curbow 5 and for the quite small body it's heavy enough to feel substantial, neither too light nor too heavy for me; so maybe 'average'. I don't have any scales so can't weigh it but it certainly isn't the heaviest bass I own (that probably is my Westone Spectrum LX - maple body, Canadian hard maple neck with rosewood fingerboard).

There's a website to find music teachers, and there's a hit for the WN5 area http://www.musicteachers.co.uk/teacher/c50b3c5d2b004514cf28