1976fenderhead

[quote name='metaltime' post='11145' date='Jun 2 2007, 07:43 PM']i just bought a power bank with ten outputs off ebay for buy it now £20 no bad eh unless it gets here and explodes or doesnt come. he is selling quite a few just thought id let everyone no. i will let you no what its like wen it gets here[/quote] I just wonder what's the point of having a brick if you'll still have a transformer going into the plug (this goes for the Dunlop and Gator bricks as well)... Why not just get the wall wart and have a daisy chain instead of a brick and have less weight on ur board and more space...?

[quote name='BlockInlayMan' post='11592' date='Jun 3 2007, 10:27 PM']On it's own, or possibly combined with chorus as well. Doesn't have to be bass specific, but work well with bass. I'm thinking along the lines of MXR, Guyatone. Electro Harmonix...Any recommendations? Ta[/quote] The EHX Stereo Pulsar is great and works perfectly with bass. I have a new one for sale if you want, PM me if interested!

So is this a general thing with fuzzes and active basses, like my Little Big Muff would sound a lot different (better?) if my bass was passive? In what way? The Fender Jazz Deluxe MIA I use is not very hot anyway, it always sounds better going to the passive inputs of amps and pedals that give that option and rarely has enough gain for the active input, so I suppose in those terms it's closer to a passive bass than to an active... It doesn't even drive the Punch Factory if I select the active input button...

[quote name='Clunge' post='10287' date='May 31 2007, 11:33 PM']Is it possible to get an adaptor that turns a standard 9v AC current into an 18v AC current? (I'm a complete boob when it comes to technical stuff) I.e. so I can use my Diago powerstation with a unit such as the MXR bass blow torch?[/quote] Yes, you can get this from Diago, I should be getting one for me next week... [url="http://www.diago.co.uk/component/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,206/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,39/"]http://www.diago.co.uk/component/option,co.../product_id,39/[/url]

Thx!

My humble board, at the moment...

[quote name='umcoo' post='8906' date='May 29 2007, 11:48 PM'][url="http://www.diago.co.uk/component/page,shop.browse/category_id,3/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,206/"]http://www.diago.co.uk/component/page,shop...art/Itemid,206/[/url] like these?[/quote] Thx, yeah, I found that after I posted, will probably order from there, but I really need one of those cables that come with power bricks too, with 2 equal plugs on both ends, can't find it anywhere... Does anyone have an extra cable of those that could sell to me?

I need one of those, and also a male to male cable, standard Boss tips, like the ones you get with the Maplin brick for example... Any advice on where to get them? Music Ground in London used to have a bucket full of those, now, not even 1! Maplin doesn't have them either...

I found this website: [url="http://www.pisotones.com/BigMuffPi/psst/BMP_versions.htm"]http://www.pisotones.com/BigMuffPi/psst/BMP_versions.htm[/url] You can see the schematics of pretty much all the versions of the Big Muff to date. It's interesting that aparently, you can buy a black one and get the highly coveted tone of the green model (used by the guy in Muse or Mike Watt among others) by simply changing 3 elements... Here's what it says there: "Current russian reissue (black) Differences with the green russian are insignificant, just three resistor values. The one that sets the minimum sustain passes from 1k in the green russian to 10k in the black reissue. The 20k resistor in the tonestack is now 22k, and the resistor to ground in the last trannie was 2k and now is 2k7." Anyone there with the knowledge could make some money with this mod, if it's all there is to it... Or even maybe build it from scratch with Maplin box, parts, etc... I'd buy it if it worked!

[quote name='stacedabass' post='8176' date='May 28 2007, 05:10 PM']rocktron, dc on tap is a very good single psu that can power up to 20 pedals, and has a variety of cables for different types of pedals[/quote] +1 Cheaper than the Godlyke and the OneSpot and just as good if not better.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='7666' date='May 27 2007, 03:20 PM']Not being funny - but what difference does being a patch lead make? If it is in the signal path it is just as important as any other jack.[/quote] The difference is, if you're gonna make 4 or 5 patch leads, which are going to be on ur board the whole time not subject to a lot of strain, you can buy good quality plugs without having to go for Neutrik and save some pounds, and leave the Neutrik for the long cables that are going to be pulled and stepped on and that ur going to use all the time, even in situations when not needing effects.

[quote name='steve' post='7397' date='May 27 2007, 12:00 AM']how about here? [url="http://www.auto-connect.co.uk/acatalog/heavy-duty-6.3mm-jack-right-angle-mono-3684.html"]plugs :-)[/url][/quote] Cool, thx, will keep that info... For the time being, I'll just order from here as it's cheap anyway [url="http://www.gear4music.com/Jack_-_Jack_Pro_Patch_Cable_30cm7.html"]http://www.gear4music.com/Jack_-_Jack_Pro_...able_30cm7.html[/url]

Ahhh found'em [url="http://www.adamhall.com/uk/AH_K--Angle-phone-plug__l--en__p--project_27__b--75192"]http://www.adamhall.com/uk/AH_K--Angle-pho...ct_27__b--75192[/url] But this is what I want so I guess I'll just buy it made: [url="http://www.adamhall.com/uk/AH_K--Professional-cable-030m-angled-jack__l--en__p--project_27__b--KI030WKS"]http://www.adamhall.com/uk/AH_K--Professio...27__b--KI030WKS[/url] Cheers

[quote name='mhuk' post='7174' date='May 26 2007, 04:01 PM']£1.29 from Maplin for this or £3.39 for this [/quote] thx, those first ones are rubish, VERY unreliable, the Neutriks are too expensive for patch leads, I was asking about that particular model coz I have some cables with those on and they're great, and I remember in bassworld some1 posted a link to a shop that sold them... I can do the cables myself, just would like to have those specific plugs...

Thx!

[quote name='matt_citizenbass' post='4334' date='May 22 2007, 12:52 PM'][url="http://www.spider-engineering.co.uk/music/typeproducts2.asp?id=3423-4617"]http://www.spider-engineering.co.uk/music/...sp?id=3423-4617[/url] sshhhhhhhhhhh its stagg.... and its plastic but it does the job [/quote] Wow, that's excellent prices! So what it's plastic, so are SKB cases! Would you say it's nearly as resistant as SKB's plastic or is it really rubish?

1 tuner 1 compressor FX: 1 filter/wah 1 distortion + boost 1 modulation Choose them very carefully, develop your own way of applying them and you have a signature sound. Much more than this and you have an identity problem (sound-wise at least)

Less ohms means more power but also more heat, which will lead at least to a shorter lifespan of your amp, even if only slightly, which might or not be an issue for you. My SWR 350x delivers 350W at 4ohms with my SWR 4ohm Triad cab, 8 would mean less than 300, 2 would mean more than 400 and I would give it a go and see how hot it would get, but I'd certainly never run it at less than 2ohms...

[quote name='stevebasshead' post='5068' date='May 23 2007, 12:49 PM']The core is the signal carrying wire (i.e. positive, or "hot"), the mesh carries the negative back to complete the cirtuit and also acts as a shield around to the core to prevent radio frequency interference. So you'd unscrew the plug, desolder the core wire from the central post and solder the capacitor in between the end of the core wire and the post you've just detached it from. Hope that helps [/quote] Right, so it would just be in line... seems too flimsy though, as at those 2 points the whole signal would be passing by the 2 tiny contacts of the cap... seems too easy to break or fail, but I'll definitely consider and have a go at it later... Thx

[quote name='Oxblood' post='4562' date='May 22 2007, 06:50 PM']You place it in the positive ('hot') signal line of the guitar cable. Easiest way to do this (assuming the capacitor is physically small enough) is to solder one end of the cap to the tip of the jack plug and the other end of the cap to the signal line of the cable.[/quote] Er... ok, so which is the signal line of the cable, the core or the net around it? And what part of the plug do I use, please describe how it looks or smt?

[quote name='stevebasshead' post='3612' date='May 21 2007, 02:33 PM']What you could do is a similar trick to what Rickenbacker used to do in the 60's and 70's. They wired a 0.0047mfd capacitor in series in the bridge pickup of the 4001's and early 4003's. This cut out lots of the lows from that pickup and was done because a lot of bass amps at the time weren't able to handle lots of lows. Rather than do that on your bass which would affect the sound going to both amps what you could do is wire in a capacitor (pennies from Maplins) into the cable you're going to run to the guitar amp. Chris Squire (I'm sure you know of, famous 4001 player) used to run his 4001 into a bass rig and Marshall guitar set up so you'd be mimicing that same set up.[/quote] That sounds interesting... so how would I go about wiring it in the cable? What would I solder the capacitor ends to?

[quote name='Spikyhedgehog' post='2346' date='May 19 2007, 06:32 PM']Also, if you're looking for more distingused trebble, output into the PA you use and use that to add a bit more kick. They should be able to handle a full range.[/quote] yeah, I thought of that too, but if you mean straight from the pedals, then I would have to use the fuzz for that too since I wouldn't have the guitar amp's distortion. I'll have to see how it sounds... As for the Unibass, the problem is I believe that output sends an octave up signal, which is not what I want...

I had some experience with a similar question recently, I bought monitors and returned them sticking to my 2.1 Creative speakers. Here's the thing: near-field monitors (as I presume those are) are great ONLY in some very specific conditions: They have to be pointing straight at your ears, and there's a certain sweet spot where they focus and will sound great but if you move your head slightly up or down or to the sides it will be completely innacurate and boomy as they'll create reflections everywhere. For example, if you place them on your desk, pointing to ur chest, the sound will reflect on the desktop and it will sound too bassy, to an unpleasant level. If you raise them so they point to your ears they'll sound perfect, more transparent, neutral and with a better stereo image than normal 2.1 speakers. But then if you get up and walk around the room or sit somewhere to watch a movie, it will sound a bit rubish again... If I only wanted them for mixing, I'd put some shelf on the wall at head height and it would be ok, as I'd only use them sitting down, but since I want them to also play along to songs while standing and to watch DVDs from bed, they're a bit useless... 2.1 speakers are designed to fill the room, so you hear pretty much the same regardless of where you are. Monitors are designed to focus on 1 small point (where the "producer" will sit) and can't be trusted if heard outside of that spot... And if your room is not acoustically treated (naked walls, lots of hard edges, no carpet, windows) it will make monitors sound like a complete mess...

Thanks all, well from this and personal conversation with another kowledgeable guy, here are my conclusions: The guitar amp will act a bit as a low end filter, as it's not tailored to those frequencies, so most of them will not go through and that will protect the speaker from damage. As for the few that go through and are still below normal guitar frequencies, those might in extreme conditions of volume and bass level damage the speakers from excessive vibration, but since the bottom will be covered by the bass amp, those will be rolled off on the guitar amp anyway, so there should be no problem... As for damage to the amp itself, there should be none at all... But let me know if you disagree...

I'm starting a band with just bass, drums and vocals and I've recorded a few song demos already. I'm taking DFA1979's tone as a starting point, although songs don't sound like their stuff at all, just the tone... I tried lots of gear models to find what would work and I've settled with gate, compressor, EQ, fuzz and chorus going to bass amp and cab. But I find it would sound better with more mid and high range, basically, the sound I get when sending non-distorted sound to a guitar amp model and using the amp's distortion... Also, would help the stereo image to have an additional amp... So I'm trying to find how I could do this... I don't want to, for example, use an octaver and send an octave up to the guitar amp... I don't want to have any notes that I didn't pluck myself so to speak, not to mention the tracking problems I'd get with all the chords I'm playing... I'd also rather use a normal bass instead of one with piccolo strings for example (maybe that would keep the guitar amp safe but I'd sacrifice a lot of low end)... How could I sort it out with a crossover, are they rack-mount or smt?