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Everything posted by dodge_bass
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Of course - what a DI box actually is, is more of a spectrum than a fixed thing (!)...ranging from a passive DI box / DI in the back of an amp to all sorts of fancy things! * I had issues with using a passive DI box with a passive bass often due to there just not being enough output. I was also not able to adjust the EQ which I like to be able to do - hence gravitating towards active DI's with an EQ (Aguilar ToneHammer / Nobel DI / MXR M81 DI amongst others). * My experience was that most DI boxes DO effect the sound whether you like it or not, particularly the cheap ones (in a bad way). * My Ampeg PF20-T head has a tube output and clean output. It can also be run without a cab so I can use it in the studio as a (large!) DI box with the ability to output two different signals...precisely because I like the sounds it's produces and consider it part of the signal chain for producing 60's / 70's type sounds. As I said previously - due to touring and often not getting the choice of heads / DI's I realised it was best to have my own (active with EQ) that way I would not be disadvantaged by poor quality DI's or poor quality amps with DI's in them. So that was my personal experience and what works for me....but a lot of people do it in a different way. It always made sense to me that if bass is DI-d (which it is 99%) of the time then the DI becomes part of the signal chain / overall tone and therefore you should use the best you can. For reference I'm using a Nobel DI which I think is amazing...but they're not cheap unfortunately. I had to save a while for that but due to being Freelance I can write it off against tax which helps. Just my $0.2
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I think the key thing is knowing what you want from a DI box....either something transparent OR something which alters your sound. The key thing for me after a lot of gigging / touring abroad was that I'd have a great rig / bass /setup etc and be playing some nice gigs and the sound gig would pull out a £15 nasty Beringher DI box....not cool. So I quickly realised that a standalone DI box as part of my pedal board was vital for touring when I couldn't bring my own amp. That way the sound is in my fingers / bass / FX / DI and not in the amp or in somebody else awful DI box. It's been a revelation to be honest and means I'm ca happily share amps or even just go though the stage wedges if necessary but I still have my sound.
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Boss OC2 - OCT 1 output volume too low to be used alone
dodge_bass replied to AinsleyWalker's topic in Effects
Yes totally agree about the MXR - useable but not so unique a sound. -
Boss OC2 - OCT 1 output volume too low to be used alone
dodge_bass replied to AinsleyWalker's topic in Effects
There must be some amp repairers / technicians nearby that could look over it for you? -
Boss OC2 - OCT 1 output volume too low to be used alone
dodge_bass replied to AinsleyWalker's topic in Effects
I found that the three leaf audio Octabreve is probably the closest emulator of an OC2. I wasn’t a huge fan of the base octave deluxe to be honest - each to their own -
Boss OC2 - OCT 1 output volume too low to be used alone
dodge_bass replied to AinsleyWalker's topic in Effects
It’s a pretty simple soldering job so most people who are handy with a soldering iron should be able to do it. Where are you based? -
Boss OC2 - OCT 1 output volume too low to be used alone
dodge_bass replied to AinsleyWalker's topic in Effects
That’s interesting. I’ve got a couple and I’m sure that one of these is Japanese and I haven’t noticed any difference in the output. Only been running them on 9V. -
Boss OC2 - OCT 1 output volume too low to be used alone
dodge_bass replied to AinsleyWalker's topic in Effects
Hmm. Dunno but sure somebody a bit more tech minded could quickly figure it out? -
Boss OC2 - OCT 1 output volume too low to be used alone
dodge_bass replied to AinsleyWalker's topic in Effects
Yup. There’s a mod that involves disconnecting the -2 Oct which increase the output. You can also decrease the dry pot too for further volume however just taking the -2 really sorts out the volume issue and with a bit of dry mixed in it sits great in the mix. It’s a super quick job you just need a good teccy! -
I saw that and was going to point you towards it but think you'd already beat me to it. Good stuff. Glad to hear it worked out!
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Sold my SY1 to Chris - great comms, super-quick transaction ALL GOOD. Enjoy!
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These are very good DIs
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https://www.google.co.uk/shopping/product/15918892166261574840?lsf=seller:291943,store:17486815475102514008&prds=oid:1228701713132546910&q=passive+di+box+radial&hl=en-gb&ei=104LXv_TArWFhbIP69mjmAg&lsft=gclid:EAIaIQobChMIovyI3oDg5gIVVuDtCh0iBQBDEAQYBCABEgIkh_D_BwE
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And that would then remove the need for a power supply as well?!
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these are a great starting point IMO.
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PS - not a dumb question, the opposite!
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I think this really depends on your bass / effects useage etc. Generally active for passive basses and vice versus. And of course if you’re using a traditional all purpose DI box rather than an bass specific DI. Better IMO to have your own decent quality DI box with you then you’ve always got your sound.
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I suspect that you are looking at non-– bass specific D I boxes? There are a multitude of a D I boxes that are active and specifically for bass that have 9 V power. Here’s a quick list to get you started: Aguillar Tone Hammer MXR M81 Any of the Sansamp DI boxes You’ll pick up something second hand easily to get started with.
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I took this in a trade a while back but it's never been used bar a few times in the studio and the neck is a little wide so hoping to shift it on. 1981 Fender Precision Special - been used a fair bit as can be seen from the pictures (some will call it mojo!). As far as can see it's all original bar one strap button (silver not gold), the jack input (also not gold) and one of the tone pots which has been replaced (I do have the original along with the active circuity schematic). Neck is straight and you can get a good low action on it. The active circuity works. but I think probably needs a little attention (reflected in the price) - it's a bit crackly at times and if you crank it fully up it can screech a bit. IMPORTANT TO NOTE THERE IS A PASSIVE / ACTIVE SWITCH ON THESE BASSES so it's totally usable in passive mode as it currently stands and may be fine for you in active mode too. There's one for sale here for £1495 (https://classicandcoolguitars.co.uk/portfolio/1981-fender-p-bass-special/) so this is a decent price for a nearly 40 year old bass that just needs a little love and attention. Price includes shipping and a decent quality gator hardcase. EDIT: 1st question via PM - Weight - 4.78Kg. 2nd questions via PM - not original hard case Any questions please drop me a PM. Thanks Ian
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