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donslow

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Everything posted by donslow

  1. Is it safe to assume, ignore ALL lines/squiggles etc etc and JUST concentrate on the dots and where they are?! Any tips on specific technique marks ie slides/hammer ons or similar that I should look out for?! Many thanks again
  2. [quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1434586435' post='2801043'] Indeed it does, and you are far from being the first or only 'gnat' with this same feeling..! The key word I used earlier was 'diligence'. I have been looking for years to find a source of the other indispensable element, namely 'patience', which is a prerequisite to all learning, ime, but with little success. 'Just do it' is the answer to that. Yes, in the very, very short term it will help to have 'A' written alongside, but it's a trap. I don't suppose you remember exactly how you first learned to read text. Did your teacher (or mother..?) have to write 'A' beside every 'A'..? I think not. You just learned, slowly, from 'A is for Apple', through Janet and John (John sees the dog. Janet sees the dog. The dog is big...'), then Treasure Island and Swallows and Amazons. Reading is learnt in that way, over a few years. Reading music is no different; one starts with the simple reading of a few notes, identifying them on the fretboard, then some simple tunes (Donald Dunn is fine for that...), then, progressively, as far as one wishes, right up to Shostakovich and more if affinity..! Take the first halting steps. Take 'em slowly. It's the fastest way of learning to run. 'Slow' is the new 'fast'. Trust me. Now go and do it; report back when you've taken that first step. Do it now. [/quote] Golly gosh! Thank you ever so much for your time and Fantastic advice, I guess your right, gonna have another stab at it using the chart that booooom posted earlier and try and find my restraint to throw books out of the window hahaha
  3. [quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1434585085' post='2801036'] Nothing 'moronic' about your request, but I doubt that 'transcribing' your whole book would help you, really. The 2nd edition does have tab, so would be an option, maybe..? Better still, imo, would be to learn the reading of the bass clef yourself. Very easy, if taken in smell steps. Try this video for starters..? ... http://youtu.be/PMk-q5LCiAs The same fellow has more videos, including how to read 'accidentals' (sharps and flats, which aren't mentioned in the first, starter, one...). Have a look, then get back here with more questions..? I could 'transcribe your book, but I don't see the difference between having 'A' written beside a dot and reading it directly as an 'A'. It's only a question of slow, diligent practise. Hope this helps... [/quote] Thank you for the video and advice, will have a look at it for sure, I guess a lot of my problem is I have the attention span of a stupid gnat and get too eager / impatient to do something like this that I end up in circles, there's a little part of me that's thinking if I had "a" etc written next to the note itself, especially for a myriad of songs/keys/notes etc it might help me better understand how to do it myself next time, does that make sense?!
  4. Thanks for that boooooom (sp) I have seen charts like that which I've tried using, it seems simple enough so I'm not sure why I keep getting it so drastically wrong / getting so confused with it all.....
  5. Hi there, not sure this is the right place to post this so if not, please feel free to move I'll try and keep this short, in an attempt to learn to play the bass rather than just wing it (which has served me well thus far I may add) I got a copy of what duck done 1st edition, the one with notation but no tablature, long and short of it, I can't read notation and I'm having real difficulty in learning the songs from this otherwise seemingly fantastic book I'm not overly concerned about tabbing it, just knowing the notes would be enough for me to figure out the playing positions Is there anyone that would be willing to do any of the following 1. "Transcribe" this book for me and mark all the notes in it (I would happily send the book to you, pay for its safe return and obviously pay for your time) 2. Be able to tell me how I can work out the notes easily, quickly and accurately (whether it be via apps or programs or simply pen and paper) I have tried but seem to time and time again get it wrong (the whole notation and symbols and all that comes with it twists me up) which has led me to ask you fantastic people for help Is there anyone willing to help a moron out? Many thanks in advance guys
  6. Just had to realign my bridge as it was 2mm on the wonk, quick setup and we're all ready to go again, thanks for the advice again guys
  7. Gentlemen, thank you ever so much for all your advice, problem solved!!! Still not sure what the problem was but I suspect grangur was spot on, the neck, I think was just unevenly seated in the pocket Just took the neck off, there was no debris in the pocket so I took my time and screwed it back on nipping each screw up whilst holding the neck still and then tightened each screw on opposite corners, seems to have solved the problem, the saddle screws are a little higher than they were before now but I suspect the lack of paint to have countered that Going to changed all the screws one by one as they have gotten a little chewed in the heads, using the wax tip given here, top tip that man!! Once again, thanks for all your helpful advice, your all gods!!!
  8. Gentlemen, thank younger all your advice so far, it is all well heeded Should be able to squeeze an hour free time today so I'm gonna take my bass apart and try it with a shim in the top of the neck pocket, see how we get on, will obviously report my success / disaster here hahaha Thank you again so far for all the advice Oh........and I am Essex based....
  9. Yeah, I meant the end nearest the headstock but there isn't much room above the screws (to the top/end of the neck pocket/body) so would a shim just under those screws work the same or should I make a really shallow shim for above them Hope that makes sense
  10. Thank you for those links, very helpful, is it safe to assume that if shimming the headstock end of the neck pocket, the shim would go under the "top" screws
  11. [quote name='Muppet' timestamp='1431165251' post='2768383'] Saddles as low as they can be and strings are too high then shim at the closed end, saddles as high as they can be and strings too low then shim at the open end and its trial and error as to thickness of shim. Longer bridge saddle grub screws isn't good as you run the risk of bending the longer intonation screw as you raise the saddle higher than it was designed to be. [/quote] Thank you for the time and advice, will rip it apart today, put the bridge back on the body and give the open end a shim, see how we get on
  12. [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1431145750' post='2768217'] If it was alright before, then it should be OK now. My guess is the neck isn't seated in the pocket correctly. If the paint was seriously thick, then you could use a card shim under the bridge. But we must be talking about 5-7mm of paint!! Sorry, I don't buy that. [/quote] Your probably right, theres probably just a malfunction in rebuilding, just have to find out where....
  13. Advice heeded gents, will have to check the neck in the pocket, as this isn't something I've come across before, how do I check the angle of the neck is correct to determine, if a shim is needed, where to place it in the pocket? Is there a tried and tested way?!
  14. All the rig I need....... [URL=http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/donslow/media/Mobile%20Uploads/54C527B2-5369-4C0F-98E6-6B4FA71834DA_zpsahvgzgcu.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah302/donslow/Mobile%20Uploads/54C527B2-5369-4C0F-98E6-6B4FA71834DA_zpsahvgzgcu.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
  15. New rig :-D SVT 2 Pro SVT Classic Series 6x10 HLF [URL=http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/donslow/media/Mobile%20Uploads/54C527B2-5369-4C0F-98E6-6B4FA71834DA_zpsahvgzgcu.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah302/donslow/Mobile%20Uploads/54C527B2-5369-4C0F-98E6-6B4FA71834DA_zpsahvgzgcu.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
  16. Thanks for the advice gents, longer saddle screws could be an option, Gjones, where in the pocket did you put the shim? As previously mentioned towards the open end?
  17. I'll try and keep this brief to prevent me rambling My bass started life as a vintage modified precision, new wiring, pickups, bridge, neck, machine heads, pick guard later it's near perfect, with one exception, still don't like the colour, Have just spent the last 5 days stripping the paint to bare wood, sanding and refinishing with wood dye, time to put it back together........neck on, pickguard and all electrics on, bridge on I restring it and the strings are flat against the fretboard on all frets, saddles raised as far as and still same problem, check the neck relief and is exactly how it was before taking it off, in order to gig with it I currently have 4 pieces of thick card (came from a whiskas box if it helps) underneath the bridge to raise it enough to get a decent action out of it Long story short, the bridge appears too low for the neck now there is no paint on the body, is this a common thing?! Has anyone else come across this problem? What are my options to repair? If it helps the bridge is a gotoh 203 "OEM Style" bridge Thanks in advance
  18. Ashdown 115 on hold pending the usuals
  19. Warwick cab now sold Just the Ashdown 115 left, who wants it at the bargain price of £65 (or whatever you may have for trades) delivered within 30 miles of Chelmsford or posted / shipped / collected at your expense
  20. Just the Warwick and Ashdown 115 cabs left bump Looking for anything smaller than these cabs for trade, just need to be gone
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