Manton Customs

There isn't a B profile, the letters (C, U, D, V) refer to the profile (shape of the back) of the neck, so a V will look just like a V a C the letter C and so on. When radius is mentioned it will be referring to the fingerboard, they typically range from 7.5" to 20" but there are of course exceptions such as an "infinite radius"....which is flat and lower than 7" on double basses. The higher the number the flatter the board (so 20" is very flat). Front to back thickness will depend entirely on the individual and a slim neck does not necessarily mean a more comfortable or faster neck. Width is also down to personal preference and will more often than not will range from between 38-42 mm at the nut on 4 string basses.

It looks like something went wrong with the finish in the first place, such as a containment on the wood (like silicone) preventing the finish to adhere. I've too have seen several Ibanez basses (same finish) with the exact same problem in the same area, so perhaps they had a batch or two where they balls up the finish. Why that spot though, I don't know, perhaps it lifted from the edge of the neck pocket. Anyway, careful colour matching with wood dye should get it looking less noticeable, once it has dried you could give it a coat or two of paste wax (Briwax, Liberon etc) to restore a bit of sheen.

You may want to look into veneering a plastic pickguard rather than making the whole thing from wood, it'd be cheaper, easier, you'd have more choice of material and it'd be more stable and strong. The wood you chose would depend on the colour you would like, what are you thinking colour wise?

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1438249142' post='2832833'] I agree on the water issue, it shouldn't be used on a fretboard even on a laquered one. there's a big risk that the frets may start to pull up. I never payed attention to the silicone thing but now i'll start reading the labels before buying. I use this standard product: Searching for this pic i found out that this brand also has this product: I may try it next time. Going off-topic now: @Manton - What happened to that old guitar you were recuperating? I lost the thread and can't find it. I would like to know how it ends up, i was loving your work. Cheers [/quote] Yeah, I wouldn't use that to be honest! It's one of the brands that get mentioned quite a bit on threads like this, I have no doubt it will effectively remove grime though it will leave behind a residue of all kinds of chemicals which is are not good for your fretboard. I believe I have seen it mentioned that it does indeed contain Silicone which is an absolute nightmare as it spreads everywhere and will not come off! The old Gibson Cromwell will be making a return to this area shortly! It's actually all strung up and finished, I'm just waiting for the pickguard to arrive from the US before putting up some finished pics. Prior to that I'll obviously also update the thread with the work which has been carried out since . Thanks for the interest!

[quote name='goonieman' timestamp='1438163306' post='2832130'] On grime - i'd use a slightly roughish dishcloth and soapywater. For truly persistent grime, you could use a green scrubber pad, but you'd need to tidy the wood up afterwards with 800-200 grit. [/quote] Hate to be "this guy" but I've seen you mention using water to clean a fingerboard a few times now and it's really not a good idea. Water can raise the grain of Rosewood and is guaranteed to swell the wood at the fret slots which can lead to all kinds of nasty things. It's not a good idea even on a finished Maple board as it can get under any small chips, nicks or marks and crack the lacquer. Again I really don't want to sound like I'm having ago at anyone and hope you don't mind me advising against it . Staying on topic, Ghost Bass's answer is a good one just make sure your chosen cleaning product has no silicone in it (if it's made for guitars chances are it won't).

[quote name='zawinul' timestamp='1438073009' post='2831299'] Shropshire!! Not too close! Can you recommend anyone down near or in Dorset? Cheers [/quote] Ha, no not close at all! I wasn't after the work myself, just trying to help out a bit . Try Ben at Crimson guitars (http://crimsonguitars.com/), he's in Dorset and I believe he does repairs. It'd probably be somewhere around £100 from someone (like Ben) who knows what they are doing. Perhaps you could get the shop where you bought it from to reimburse?..Or try to!

[quote name='zawinul' timestamp='1438035342' post='2831159'] Ill email Warwick as serial number is on headstock ...see what board is actually made of! Xx [/quote] While that's a good idea to confirm if it was made with fretlines or not, you can rest assured that it is 100% definitely Ebony, I work with it every week . As I mentioned earlier, it would not be an expensive job to have a local luthier restore the board.

Though both would work for pickup routes I'd say full size , it'll do almost everything the palm one will do and most jobs it would do better. I had the Bosch palm one in addition to a couple of full size ones for several years and never took the palm one out the box, so sold it!

I wasn't aware Warwick doesn't make a lined fretless, perhaps it was a custom, or maybe they used to. Or perhaps the lines were retrofitted. It wasn't defretted or there would be obvious marks where the side dots had been filled. Regarding the filler seen in the last picture I have seen[i] plenty[/i] of high end guitars with similar filler in places. It would also be much less visible if the board was oiled...it's sometimes a case of the closer you look the more you see! Though no, it should not be acceptable on a bass of this price, but it does happen! The gaps which have not been filled around the fret slots look very much like movement where either the Ebony or the veneer has shrunk. The cost of restoring the board would be minimal (even with a luthier doing the work!)

What the shop has told you is correct, the wood has shrunk and this shows at the fret lines where over time it has moved. The cause is not going to be sweaty hands though! It's certainly Ebony and I'd put a bet on the fact that the little bits which have been filled were done at the factory when new. The little circle (orangy colour) on your fourth picture is a small knot and nothing to be concerned about. Ebony comes in lots of different grades, some can be surprisingly porous which is probably what the tiny holes you are seeing is. The string wear should have been mentioned in the description, but it's no big deal to fix, neither is repairing the fret line gaps. Any other concerns?

There aren't any real disadvantages to a zero fret other than they can wear surprisingly quickly and replacing one is a little more tricky than replacing a nut. However that still takes a long time to become an issue and getting guaranteed perfect height at the nut is a big advantage for mass produced instruments. If it's from a luthier it's not really an issue as the nut slots will (or should!) be cut to perfect depth anyway. I can see the appeal of adjustable nuts for the person who likes to play about with their setup a lot, but in reality they have no advantage over a non adjustable nut as once a nut is cut correctly you shouldn't need to ever make adjustments other than perhaps width if you change string gauge.

Post number 2 all the way

I'd get a coarser polishing compound and give that a go before resorting to wet sanding. Autosol metal polish may well be worth a go, I've used it lots of times for removing similar scratches. If you try wet sanding, use no coarser than 600 and progress through the grits to 12/1500. Depending on how deep the scratches are it may be difficult to gauge how perfect you can get it before burning through! Which would be a disaster. You may need to settle for a sort of "as good as you can get" result if you feel you have removed a lot of finish, far better this than going too far. From the pics it looks like you should be able to get it looking pretty good with Autosol as they aren't too bad. If you go the wet sanding route, once you have sanded up to 1200/1500 then progress onto polishing compounds, no new lacquer would be needed provided you don't b***s it up! Polishing compounds can be used by hand with a soft cloth.

Sounds like the anchor is not doing it's job, have a read through this http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Truss_Rods/A_sign_of_truss_rod_trouble_and_an_easy_solution_.html. Failing that, yes heavier gauge strings or clamping into a forward bow should also work.

We could do that for you . Feel free to send a PM or email if interested.

[quote name='bassmachine2112' timestamp='1431859183' post='2775581'] Hiho lovely piece of wood there. kinda off thread but onnit-why aren,t we using indigenous woods from UK like sycamore,it,s a maple,oak,birch,rowan,blackthorn I know some of these would need to be glued together as the boards would be narrow . I take inspiration from all the trees that are in our country,what,s wrong with Norfolk ash,it,s quiet swampy in places like the broads,willow makes cricket bats and they get a pounding,beech used for mallets cause it resists splitting. Just a thought [/quote] We do just that . Agree completely it's a shame that more English woods aren't used. Sycamore is a true Maple (but a fake plane, hence the latin name ) and a lovely wood to work. We use English Ash for all our Ash bodies and necks also. There are plenty of home grown alternatives which are suitable for every part of a guitar though people generally seem to stick with traditional guitar woods as it's what they are used to seeing. Here are a few: Oak Ash Elm Maple (AKA Sycamore) Walnut Cherry Lime Pear Plum Hornbeam Alder London Plane

Yes, it's perfectly possible, though retro fitting them is a much bigger job than starting from scratch due to the re fretting as howie mentioned. If you need another option send me a PM for a quote, though sounds like you have a couple of good candidates already.

[quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1429730055' post='2754429'] Agreed! TBH even if you practice on other basses, you'd still likely as not have chips/slivers out of the fingerboard when you defret. [/quote] Yep! You can minimise it by heating the frets with a soldering iron first and never pulling on the fret, just lever using the flush cutters. Standard practice for any fretboard (and put here for the sake of the OP), but Wenge and Ebony aren't very forgiving... Fortunately both patch up well though!

Yep, it'll work. You could leave it natural / oil it as if you would a Wenge neck. Or you could give it a hard Epoxy or CA finish if you don't want to feel and see the pores as well as toughening it up. Though even left natural it's similar in hardness to Rosewood. Be VERY careful defretting it, it will chip! If you haven't done it before it may be best to either do a practice one on rosewood or Maple or pay a luthier to do it for you.

[quote name='fingerz' timestamp='1429435988' post='2751290'] Has anyone mentioned the bridge?! You will probably need to fit a narrower spaced bridge to stop your strings disappearing off the side of your fingerboard of your narrowed neck. You may wish to cut a new nut too to keep a familiar tapered feel, this might also be essential if you are shaving the neck all the way up to the headstock (assume you'd have to?). [/quote] No, a different bridge would not be necessary unless the nut width was remaining the same (or similar) and the heel narrowed. However what Paul wanted was the opposite; the nut narrowing and the heel remaining the same (to fit the body!). So a new nut would of course be an essential part of the job.....Kind of irrelevant now anyway as Paul has decided not to have anything done to the bass .

That's a myth about over sanding, in the past I have polished wood to 12000 (yes thousand!) with Micro Mesh before applying a homemade oil/poly finish and it gives a lovely finished product. This was done as an experiment to achieve an as thin as possible homemade finish, where the wood itself shines (requiring less coats of finish). I'm not suggesting you do this, as it's not necessary for a traditional oil finish to sand this fine. Sanding bare wood beyond 400/600 for a traditional oil finish can be a bit redundant as the scratch pattern is quite fine by these grades. It's also a bit of a myth that the oil penetrates the wood deeply, whereas in actual fact it does not penetrate any further than 0.5 mm at an absolute max. Danish Oil is a wiping varnish as opposed to a pure oil, so it is designed to sit on top of the wood. Also keep in mind that the actual body you receive may not be fit for a natural finish....so have a plan B!

When you say you "adjust the trussrod but nothing" do you mean it does not solve your problem, or that it literally does nothing and does not adjust the relief? What is the relief like? The truss rod does not set the action, just the relief so if your trying to adjust your action using the truss rod...stop it . Assuming you knew that and that the relief is correct, it sounds like either the belly of the guitar has bulged, or the neck angle has changed. Both are big jobs to put right. It may help a little to string up with some light (or extra light) gauge strings and give it a little while to settle with them before checking again to see if things have improved .

As others have said it'd be a big job to narrow the neck. Andy is on the money with his approach, defret, rout the new taper and blend with headstock, re bind, re fret, refinish...oh and obviously make a new nut! So it's quite a serious amount of work! A new neck would have more benefits; you could have it exactly as you want it, keep the original undamaged and would actually probably be cheaper....We make custom necks by the way .

It's certainly something you can achieve and on a bass of that price you really haven't got much to lose! Modern frets have a LOT of material there before you are in any danger of running out of wire. I'm guessing you already know the process from videos etc, so I won't go into that, but if you have isolated fret buzz at the 11th fret you definitely have a high fret. Any rock with your short straight edge indicates a problem which needs to be dealt with. If you view it at eye level you will see which fret it is rocking on, but level them all, not just that one. Also ignore videos you see using a radius block to level frets....it's not the right way to do it. Protecting the fingerboard with masking tape was not a bad move at all.

That's very kind, thank you!