Greg.Bassman

Hi Frank. Cheers for your response. [quote name='machinehead' timestamp='1486585132' post='3233076'] Plus, the chances are that the 4ohm cab couldn't handle the increased power anyway. [/quote] I see. How come? (Forgive me, I'm not that technically savvy lol).

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Hi all. For transportation and health purposes (my back! lol), I was hoping to ditch my 410, in favour of a 210. How does the [/color][color=#000000]‘[/color][color=#000000]Traveler 102P[/color][color=#000000]’ [/color][color=#000000]fare as a standalone?[/color][/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Bars to butlins stages, all our shows have PA support, so the 102 will be used solely for self-monitoring purposes. I[/color][color=#000000]’[/color][color=#000000]ll be pairing it with my Little Mark III. I always stand within close proximity of my cab and us the Mark Stand to tilt it slightly up toward me.[/color] [color=#000000]I have read many good things about the traveller 102P players[/color] [color=#000000]describing[/color] [color=#000000]it as [/color][color=#000000]‘[/color][color=#000000]Deceptively loud[/color][color=#000000]’ [/color][color=#000000]with a [/color][color=#000000]‘[/color][color=#000000]nice controlled low [/color][color=#000000]end[/color][color=#000000]’[/color][color=#000000]-[/color][color=#000000] b[/color][color=#000000]u[/color][color=#000000]t I wanted to hear what my fellow basschatters make of it all? anybody else using this set-up?[/color][/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]*Please note* For cost and transportation purposes, I have no intention of expanding the rig past the one cab; so I[/color][color=#000000]’[/color][color=#000000]m thinking the 4Ohm version would be the appropriate choice here, just so I get the most out of my LMIII.[/color][/font][/size]

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]C[/color][color=#000000]hecking out a few threads here[/color][color=#000000] and there,[/color][color=#000000] there seems to be a consensus[/color] [color=#000000]with [/color][color=#000000]flatter-board (sometimes absolutely flat) [/color][color=#000000]users[/color][color=#000000], [/color][color=#000000]that they really enjoy them[/color][color=#000000]; [/color][color=#000000]many 'flat fingerboard converts' noting[/color][color=#000000] the increased comfort and dexterity- presumably, because of the lower action achieved and string-string evenness[/color][color=#000000]?[/color][/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Does this ring true with any of you bass chatters out there?[/color][/font][/size]

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1486368605' post='3231067'] I prefer a flat board for chords too! [/quote] [quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1486373812' post='3231112'] I think a flatter board helps chords [/quote] Interesting. Maybe the 'radiused/chordal' thing is more to do with guitarists then. It's just something that I read on google

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Hi all. Been geeking out on this sort of stuff lately. [/color][/font][/size][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Like most, it[/color][color=#000000]’s obviously a very subjective thing; that will differ from player to player. [/color][/font][/size] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Preferences aside though, I just wondered if there were any [i]common[/i] points to consider when opting for either one? For example, I have read that amongst players, a radiused board (typically 7.25", 9.5" etc) is preferred for chordal work, whereas a flatter board (say, 16” onwards) is preferred for string bending. [/color][/font][/size][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]What are some other pro’s and con’s (if any) for each?[/color][/font][/size] P.S - Sorry if 'radiused' is not a real word. I think you get the idea though lol.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1485989789' post='3228415'] There's a thread discussing medium scale (32") basses here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/219311-medium-32-scale-electric-basses/"]http://basschat.co.u...lectric-basses/[/url] [/quote] Awesome. Cheers howiebass!

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1485984543' post='3228340'] The 7.25" radius of the Sire basses is the only thing putting me off trying one, way too curvy for my liking. [/quote] Lol, same here. Beautiful looking basses though

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1485727601' post='3226248'] ...maybe a shorter scale instrument might suit you better? [/quote] [size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color="#000000"]Hi howiebass. That[/color][color="#000000"]’[/color][color="#000000"]s an interesting idea. What model would you recommend?[/color][/font][/size]

[quote name='Jazzjames' timestamp='1485786515' post='3226661'] But a lower action because you can't play with even a medium action tells me there's probably something funny going on with your technique that's causing the pain, not the bass. [/quote] [quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1485791401' post='3226701'] A few things that you've said (this is directed to the OP) make me think that it's possibly more your left hand technique than your bass. [/quote] [quote name='HazBeen' timestamp='1485798844' post='3226804'] My point without wanting to suggest in any way you do not perhaps already do this, perhaps you need to excercise your hands more. [/quote] [size=4][color="#000000"]Lol, thank you for your concern guys, but rest assured, all is fine in that department. I’ve played semi-professionally for approximately 4 years now; playing in the company of some very fine musicians (some being bass teachers)- none of which, I’m glad to report, have never felt the need to correct me on my left/right hand technique.[/color][/size] [size=4] [/size] [size=4][color="#000000"]But you are right though, correct technique and exercises are very important! [size=4] [/size][/color][/size]

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color="#000000"]After a quick web search, the flattest radius I can find is 20[/color][color="#000000"]” (ie. Warwick streamer). Is 20” the flattest overall, or is there flatter out there? What measurement is ‘absolutely flat’?...[/color][/font][/size]

[quote name='mybass' timestamp='1485733704' post='3226326'] Perhaps visit a bass shop that has some of the slim neck basses like Ibanez, Warwick? [/quote] Hi mybass. Cheers for your reply. Yes, a trip to my local guitar store is likely, but I just wanted to do my homework first (sometimes the staff don't always know what they're talking about lol)

[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=4][color=#000000]Incidentally, I’ve just found this thread from Basschat last year. Seems to be a mixed bag: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/118532-flat-fingerboard-radius/"]http://basschat.co.u...erboard-radius/[/url][/color][/size][/font]

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1485722581' post='3226179'] A flatter radius with a very low action will make string bends less likely to choke off. (If string bending is your thing of course. It is mine. I like a tone up and sometimes if it will go, a minor 3rd, certainly a major 3rd on the low strings) [/quote] Hi dood. Thanks for your reply. Sorry, when I say 'choke' I mean transitioning from string to string (my terminology is all off lol). I don't do much string bending.

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1485725198' post='3226219'] Other than for string bends, the flatter radius has no inherent geometric advantage to gain a lower action. How low is your current action? What strings are you using? [/quote] Hi 3below. Thanks for your response. My luthier simply said that it has received a 'medium low' set up (whatever [i]that[/i] equates to). Presumably, somewhere just alittle lower that the typical 'medium' action. Forgive me, I'm not that technically savvy. AND I'm currently using Daddario EXL220 nickel wounds (40-95).

Hi all. Hope you’re well. Ok so, I’m a seriously light player; opting for the lowest action I can get. As much as I love it’s tone, I’m afraid that my Fender jazz (9.5” radius) isn’t quite cutting it in the way of playability; the action kills my left arm and fingers and I find myself choking during fast runs. My local luthier insists that he has taken the action to the lowest it can go without 'buzzing' (much to my dissatisfaction). I decided to persevere regardless, hoping that this may disappear with practice; but a few years down the line, I still seem to be fighting with the ol' jazz. Anyways, I’ve heard that it is easier to achieve an ultra low action an a flat-radius fingerboard; many 'flat fingerboard converts' noting the increased comfort and dexterity- presumably, because of the low action and string-string evenness. Could this be the move for me, and what things should I keep in mind when making the switch? P.S - Any 'flat radius' bass model suggestions would be appreciated. Ideally something based on a jazz bass profile, 4-string. My budget is £1000. Cheers.

Hi all. These are some great suggestions, thank you! I will have a shop around, and see what I settle on. Cheers.

[font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]Hi all. Hope you[/color][/size][/font][font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]’re well.[/color][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]I’ve been experimenting with a lot more slapping and tapping recently. The dynamic nature of the slap and tap techniques, means that I’m experiencing a lot of harsh volume peaks. [/color][/size][/font][font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]Presumably, I’d need some form of compression to keep my levels sounding smooth and controlled, right?[/color][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]If so, can anybody suggest a good bass compressor pedal please? Something that…[/color][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]- Is simple to use (too many controls is mind-boggling).[/color][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]- Doesn’t mud or compromise my tone in any way (just something that simply brings all the frequencies together).[/color][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]Many thanks. Greg[/color][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=3][color=#000000]P.S - Any suggested pedal settings would be a bonus.[/color][/size][/font]

[quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1478472256' post='3169330'] I have had ibanezes for many years now and not managed to run a battery out, they last for years, so I just change them every year or so. When the battery starts running out it will start getting quieter over the days / weeks. It will not cut out in a song. [/quote] Certainly some consolation there, cheers!

Hi all. Hope you’re well. I have recently purchased the Ibanez SR500. There is no option to bypass the active circuitry, so I’ve had the idea of installing some sort of push/pull option on the volume knob, incase my battery ever runs out mid-song. Is this possible? where can I buy the part? and how do I wire it up? All feedback greatly appreciated! Cheers.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1477066215' post='3159684'] The change in tension is more likely to impact your truss rod. With regards to your intonation and action, that will change if you are changing the gauge. In short, when changing strings, do all three... although the truss rod change is less likely to be required if you stick to the same set of strings. PS it's not uncommon to need truss rod tweaks throughout the year (especially if you play with a low action) as the wood changes with the weather... so to speak. [/quote] Cheers for the feedback mate! Do you use Balanced tension yourself, or are you just speaking in general terms?

Hi all. Hope you’re well. I’ve decided to give the ‘Balanced tension’ range a punt. Normally, when I change gauge, I send it to my local luthier to adjust the intonation/action to compensate for the change in tension. I’m not too sure about the procedure for BT strings though; are you supposed to adjust the intonation or just install them as is? I'm currently using the EXL220's. The only difference in the BT version is that the A and D strings are slightly lighter (see below). Does the slight difference in the A and D string really warrant a new set-up? Current: EXL220: (40-60-75-95) BT version: EXL220BT: (40-55-70-95)

[quote name='DanOwens' timestamp='1476090785' post='3151060'] The problem is that there isn't a single 'synth bass sound'. The 'octave > fuzz > filter' setup definitely gets you a sound that can be found on a synth, but it isn't FM synth and doesn't have any PWM-type component, etc. I used pitch to midi, parallel paths, midi-sync'd gates... at one point I had 5 simultaneous signal paths to create a HUGE live synth sound. I eventually just bought an M13 for some cool sounds and played a Microkorg. So much easier to set up, less to go wrong. [/quote] Hi Dan. Cheers for your response. How effective is the Line 6 M series for synth? Could I replicate the ‘drawbar organ’ like sound that I’m looking for, say? I’ve found that most synth pedals/units are often a let down; as they are generally all about aggressive saw sounds etc. What I’m looking for are the more smoother sounds associated with House music.

Hi all. Cheers for your feedback, some interesting suggestions here

Hi all. Hope you're well. I'm getting more and more enquiries regarding 'synth bass'; and if it is something that I offer in my session playing. Though I am a huge fan of electronic music (namely House), admittedly, I have not got a clue when it comes to synth bass; so sadly, I've had to decline these sort of gigs until now. I feel at a huge disadvantage, and this is definitely something that I would like to start offering in my playing. Friends have suggested such items as the 'Novation bass station' and 'Roland GAIA' (both popular synths). However, hand-hand coordination is an issue for me; so using a conventional (keyboard form) synth is out of the question. My day job makes finding the practice time[i] to learn [/i]very difficult. Surely, there is a way of replicating the same sounds using a conventional bass guitar and pedals. Any suggestions please? P.S - I have attached afew examples of what sounds I'm talking about: (please listen with good headphones or speakers).