NancyJohnson

Try as many different cabs as possible until you hit paydirt. Easy!

I've been chasing transparency for sometime, favouring a rack set up paired with a Matrix power stage. Fantastic setup. Right now I'm using a Tech 21 XB Driver until GSS Baby Sumo. It's plenty loud.

I bought a little keyboard stand. We were just too loud as a band and the angled cab thing didn't help. It was more about elevating the cabs so you were in full battle with the cymbals.

I suppose while it's nice to know the DNA of an instrument, but once it's all bolted together and playable, does it really matter? Irrespective of the years, everything here is machine made and the parts are interchangeable.

Morning I pulled a John East preamp out of a bass recently (just wanted to try something different). I just want to make certain it's all working before reinstalling elsewhere. Assuming the green wire below goes the ground, anyone know where does the red one goes? I have contacted John about this, no answer yet. Thanks

(Shh. Unplugged version. 😁)

Fractory.com In the US, sendcutsend.

Out in the car yesterday, while on shuffle mode three tracks from our monster Spotify playlist came on back to back and each had fantastic acoustic guitar solos. Cockney Rebel - Come Up and See Me Gilbert O'Sullivan - Alone Again (Naturally) Rod Stewart - Maggie May Perfect.

First thing I thought was who the hell plays on the 24th fret? A few factors to consider. Strings, old/new? Action at 24th fret? Is the buyer playing the harmonic or the fretted note? Do the other strings intonate correctly up the dusty end? Neck on the wonk? It's feasible that the 24th fret could be in the wrong place, unlikely, but possible. It's also possible that if the action was a bit high at this point, simply depressing the string might throw out the tuning. Given the scale on these is (I believe) 34", you're looking at a fretted note at the 24th fret to be c.8.5" this high up the neck. If the frets are wide/jumbo and haven't been crowned correctly, given the shortness of the scale at this point, this could throw out the tuning/intonation a little. A little. Millimetres, or part thereof, will make a difference at that point, no significant but a difference.

Why does it take longer? Logistics. Thomann are a pan-European supplier with a level of instrumentation-supply that (for instance) Andertons or GuitarGuitar can only dream of. I can't honestly imagine how much kit get shipped here weekly, I'd imagine it's mind-boggling. They likely ship enough product to the UK to warrant everything going into containers rather than simply going out on an individual basis, so as @BigRedX has said, Thomann are likely have enough power to assign UK shipments leaving their facility on certain days of the week and coordinating with FedEx/UPS/whoever well in advance of that day to book freight slots to get it to this country.

Years back I landed an Aria Pro II Primary bass on a late Friday hunt. It was in rotten shape..over 40 years old. After I got it up and running I decided that every time it left the house I'd put a ding in it, walks, floor, pavement, dragging it along the road a bit. It looks glorious.

I had one put in my Lull after the East preamp stopped working. I'll admit that when I (finally) got it up and running (see elsewhere), it didn't really do it for me. That said, I haven't run it through my XB Driver. Might be a revelation. I'll try later.

2007. I know how this place works!

Aah, it's in the garage. MDF is also quite moisture prone too, when it's stored in a hot/cold (damp?) environment, it'll effectively delaminate (even though the product isn't laminated); it'll just start splitting along it's length!

I'm constantly amazed with the amount of solutions that are proposed for questions like the OP! Plugging holes? Get some dowels (there's probably a bloke in your immediate vicinity who has spares in their shed from IKEA builds), drill out the holes to the required diameter, glue and plug, cut/sand back smooth, redrill new pilot holes in correct locations and reattach neck.

With the best will in the world MDF probably isn't going to be the best product to build from if you want something robust. End of the day it's just wood dust and glue/resin; it won't hold screws well and glue penetration isn't great. Honestly, treat yourself to a sheet of 1/2 birch plywood and joint/mitre the edges. Any decent wood merchant should be able to mill/cut sheets to whatever size you need and a good sized sheet will probably only be £30.00.

The original Mark Hoppus signature basses were Jazz body/Precision-profile neck.

Just to answer, he said he's not between tours, he still plays drums in a couple of local projects. He's 67 (doesn't look it).

And no. Don't ask.

In an almost surreal moment earlier today, I was served in a decorating centre by a drummer of a band who scored a handful of Billboard Top 30 singles in the 1980s/90s and (on further investigation) have over 1.5 billion streams on Spotify (nearly 12m listens a month). Bonkers. [Edit]. One video has a staggering 890m plays on You Tube. Double bonkers.

A few weeks in and it still gives me immense joy just looking at it. I don't really have basses out all the time (generally on rotation), but right now it's just this one. Neck hasn't moved at all and thankfully the new smell has disappeared. Buy with confidence from the named seller.

I am curious about the ABY scenario. If you're running a single out (at 4ohms) into an ABY with both outputs open and then into a pair of 8ohm cabinets, would the load be recognised as 4ohms?

Moving forward, could you drill out a second jack socket (or make up a replacement plate) to allow the cabs to be daisychained? This will give you the option of going out of the 4ohm output. Alternatively (and I don't know whether this would work), output the 4ohm to an ABY box and squirt the signal to both cabs in parallel? (If the ABY option is doable - I'm sure someone will know - I have a Vein Tap Separator mini I can send up.)