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Everything posted by NancyJohnson
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I'd prefer to be Fauci than Trump, I suppose. Let's try and address the salient points here. #1 The headstock. You've compromised the strength of the neck behind the nut by routing so much off to accommodate the string anchor unit - how much wood is there diagonally where you've cut it out at the right angle? Less than a centimetre? The screws (eight?) will also compromise the fibres in the wood. The dowel you used to plug the old B-string hole has left ugly black marks (this may be grease/lubricant used by MusicMan to get the original ferrule in). The old string anchor hole (filled) is visible. I'm not certain, but have you shaved so much off that an original machine head screw hole is showing? #2 The front and rear of the headstock. I think this speaks for itself. The black witness line of the undercoat finish on the rear, the 'glass smooth' filled holes. The visible dowel front and rear. Honestly, #3 The new bridge (#1). While I don't doubt the hardware looks fairly robust, in your attempt to hide the scar left by the original bridge, you've rubbed back the original finish with a high grit paper and ruined the original finish; this is possibly to flatten the surface to accommodate a flat-plate of some sort for the new bridge to ride on? I'm unsure whether this could be buffed out, but it looks terrible. #4 The new bridge (#2). The rubbing back I mentioned above is clear here. Looking from this angle it looks like you've slipped with the router or there's been some chipping of the finish by the low B-string tuner. There's also an unfilled hole by the high-B tuner. Absence of any finish in the routed out area. I'm assuming this bass will be played sitting down as there's no strap button. #5 Rear of the bridge. Words fail me. It's like you've free-handed the router. I'm assuming you masked off the area with tape of some sort and when you pulled it off it tore away the lacquer. Good grief. If you'd had a catastrophic headstock break and wanted to try to get it customised rather than sourcing a new neck, then I'm sure one of the builders here could have fashioned something original under your directorship, this though? Nah. It's awful.
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Cables have arrived and all sorted. Loudness has returned. Thanks t'all!
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Thing is, hardware and labour account for nothing really. People want originality at the hands of the maker, not something created by a guy in his driveway. I've no idea why anyone would do this type of thing, was there actually anything wrong with it? The unfinished parts, the partially rubbed down area around the bridge, the messy filling of the machine head hole, the poorly filled machine head screw holes, the bad sanding on what's left of the headstock, the bad routing around the new bridge. There's not a lot of wood left around the nut, so with screws holding down the whatever-it's-called-thingie at the ex-headstock end, the wood is going to lose a bit of structural strength. You can argue all you want that these retail for £2.5K, but let's face it, it's not really a Bongo anymore; for £2K (and a bit of patience and haggling), you could probably pick up a 6HH easily enough (a lava pearl 6HH model sold on Reverb recently for £1,500).
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*Just got an Amazon notification that the cables will be here before 4.30pm. All will be revealed!
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What is the most you'd personally pay for a new bass?
NancyJohnson replied to lidl e's topic in Bass Guitars
No case = 45 year free relic service. Premium £££. -
What is the most you'd personally pay for a new bass?
NancyJohnson replied to lidl e's topic in Bass Guitars
If I had the desire, need or want, I'd make it happen irrespective of the price; most I've paid for a bass is £5.5K (my Lull five string) and £3.8K for a guitar (Gibson Theodore/investment). Not wanting to go down the 'How much???' rabbit hole that much, but I was looking at the Anderton's site earlier; I'm amazed how much Fender stuff sells for new. Mexican Precisions, Jazzes and Jaguars are £700-725 (Player series...whatever that is), Japanese and 'Corona' Performer (aren't Corona basses made in Mexico and bolted together in California?) start c.£1,200 and the American stuff is a £400+ premium on top of that. It's staggering how much these retail for (and yes, I understand all about dealer markups). I can remember the old Bell Music catalogues from when I was a kid. Yes, I know it's 45+ years ago and inflation (blah, blah, blah), but a Precision bass is still a £240 instrument in my eyes. -
To be honest, to restore/unplug everything to get the static/crackle back is going to be more hassle than it's worth right now! I'll wait for the new cables to arrive before I pull everything out (again). If these don't work, I'll throw the original cables back in and do you a recording.
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Tom Petersson and His Massive Cheap Trick Sound
NancyJohnson replied to ChWillie's topic in General Discussion
I did some work for Waterstone a few years ago and got a TP12 for my troubles. I was playing in a three piece punk band at the time and that was never going to work out. Observations? It was heavy and I never really got close to the Tom Petersson tone I desired. It's an instrument that needs a bit of work tonally; in addition to the bass, it's useful to run it through a crossover, routing the lows/fundamentals through something like a Sansamp BDDI with a touch of grunt on it and the highs/octaves through a Sansamp GT2 with some distortion going on. (EDIT: and then running into individual enclosures.) I didn't have all the outboard kit to make this work for me; simply running it through a single amp with a bit dirt wasn't best - the octaves were incredibly bright. Of the bass itself, heavy, no forearm cut, headstock heavy. Played well enough after a considerable amount of tweaking. And on to Cheap Trick. First three albums and Budokan great. Dream Police not so great. Tom left and that was it for me. The recent 'Out To Get You! Live 1977' album is great though. Had they split up in 1979, I'd have more love for them. -
Yep, tried all the USB outs. I have a powered hub, so I'll give that a punt. I've ordered some TSR cables. Let's see what happens there. Delivery Wednesday.
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OK, let's address things! (In no particular order): PC is an HP Pavilion D550 or D580FPA. 2.7ghz 64bit. It's not feasible to try a different PC at this juncture. The Scarlett doesn't allow for an additional power supply; it's USB from PC/laptop only: I've tried powering the monitors from a different plug (I ran an extension from another room). I was still getting the static/crackle. Question. The monitors have "TSR" printed above the 1/4" jack socket - feasibly if I bought a pair of these, it might solve things? I just took a look at the manual for the interface - this is saying balanced/TSR cables. I don't mind throwing a little more swag at it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Instrument-AkoaDa-Interconnect-Equalizer/dp/B095WMLY1L/ref=sr_1_24?crid=5SEVCBYBATMN&keywords=trs%2Bcable%2B4m%2Bright%2Bangle&qid=1671447860&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=tsr%2Bcable%2B4m%2Bright%2Bangle%2Cmi%2C60&sr=1-24&th=1 What does seem the oddest is that the old PC (a very old Dell) ran the interface which then ran the monitors without any issues. Standard jack cables, crackle free.
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That's the DI box, yes. (It was the one in the video I mentioned earlier.) Interestingly there's no difference to things tonally with the ground-lift button in or out. PC is a desktop (HP). The current XLR cables are these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CUI6I0A The 1/4" jack to jack cables are these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CSVQ264 I was out to lunch with a mate of mine yesterday and he asked a very obvious question...wouldn't I be better off just buying a pair of jack-XLR cables? I didn't have an answer.
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I honestly had no recollection of posting this previously! To answer the questions, the interface is powered by a USB cable from the OC and the Palmer is passive/unpowered. Cabling is (standard?) off the shelf stuff; everything has been used in other applications previously. The power cables to the monitors are the same ones that were in the box when I bought them new. I've tried all manner of problem solving, but just couldn't resolve the crackling/static issue. I reached the passive DI solution after turning up a video by a sound engineer on You Tube...it resolved the issue immediately, but introduced another in the guise of reduced speaker volume/output.
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Hopefully someone will have a solution for this. I use a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 audio interface for recording and audio playback; this feeds a pair of M-Audio BX5 powered monitors. When I changed computers a couple of years ago, the audio became very noisy (electric static) but there wasn't any issue with the volume of the monitors, just the crackling. There wasn't an issue with recordings when I used the interface, everything was clean. (The signal path was simple, USB to the interface, 1/4" jacks from the interface direct into the monitors. The interface is 1/4" jack output only.) The monitors were set to about 50% and the interface output to about 20-25%; even at this it would get too loud at times. To resolve the static issue, I bought a Palmer dual channel/stereo passive DI box, ran 1/4" jacks to that and then XLRs to the monitors. The electrostatic crackling stopped (woop), but there's been a noticeable drop in volume from the monitors, so much so that I now run the monitors at 100% and the interface at about 50%. There's no way to tweak the interface up and there's nothing on the Palmer aside from a 0/-30db button (I'm running the DI at 0db). PC output is at 100%. I know this is a first world problem; but I'm just trying to get to the bottom of why everything has gone a bit quiet.
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I think part of the joy is that it's an instrument I wanted to be able to play and in general, I've achieved that. I'm never going to be brilliant on it, but I feel I have the confidence to be able to play it anywhere if prompted.
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Congratulations on the acquisition! It's been an odd year since I got mine! Put in a lot of hours initially, then we had a couple of months of building work, swiftly followed by a torn meniscus and knee surgery (which made standing a bit painful for long periods). I've been back on it recently, still enjoy it immensely. I'm unsure whether I'd ever be able to integrate it into any band tbh but it's hugely enjoyable to just noodle on it.
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Sometimes the threads here kill me. Just buy a pair of wirecutters that look like the photo @Bigguy2017 posted. B&Q £5.00. They're perfectly fit for purpose. My nephew (8) showed some interest while I was changing some strings and I let him cut them to length, even the B-string. He then busied himself cutting the old strings into lengths of a few inches. If these don't work, well frankly there's no hope.
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I Think I'm Getting Into The Cure - What's Their Best Stuff?
NancyJohnson replied to Mykesbass's topic in General Discussion
My wife likes them, I find them a bit hard going, somewhat up and down. I like most of the singles, although this is more about familiarity than anything else, plus a clutch of album tracks. It worries me when someone says they're interested in getting into <insert band name here>, more so where a band like The Cure are concerned, their back catalogue is just vast - despite there only being 13 studio albums in over 40 years (which isn't a spectacular return, albeit the last one coming out 15 years ago, so 25 years), you'd also have to factor in stuff like Join The Dots (70 tracks), the live albums and the reissues (which contain 150+ extra tracks/versions). Good luck! -
I've had Fender Jazz basses and ran a '79 Precision bass for too long. Overall preference would be the Jazz. Tend to prefer two pickup basses with everything on 10, so the Jazz just gave a little more rumble and ponk out of the case. I have a 70s Aria Primary/Precision; ultimately it does what a Fender would do except it has Aria on the headstock. I'd describe it as 'gnarly' from a tone perspective. It's definitely a keeper.
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I remember seeing an auction on the Gardner Holgate site a few years ago where someone paid £400 for some wood shavings from a guitar. People are stupid. People with deep pockets will buy anything. If baked beans were £500 a can, people would be eating them with toothpicks and saying how delightful they are and how they pop. https://www.guitar-auctions.co.uk/sale/166/551/Jimi-Hendrix--wood-shavings-from-the-Zemaitis-twelve-string-acoustic-guitar-played-by-Jimi-Hendrix-in-1967-framed-with-presentation-plaque-21-x-17--From-the-collection-of-Keith-Smart-chair-of-the-Zemaitis-Owners-Club-When-a-club-member-restored-the-guitar-he-sent-Keith-some-shavings-Keith-donated-some-to-the-Boat-Project-charity-some-to-the-Zemaitis-museum-and-framed-a-number-up-for-himself-This-is-the-last-frame-that-was-in-his-study-at-his-home-and-comes-complete-with-various-copies-of-newspaper-cuttings-and-a-reference-DVD-containing-news-reports
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Crikey, his Hamer Cruisebass went for $26k. I have little respect for provenance and even in times like these, there's too many people with very deep pockets that can afford to buy these things ne'er to see the light of day again.
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I'm old enough to remember the old OLP Stingrays. A mate had one; QC on delivery was horrific, but after a bit of jiggery-pokery it played really nicely.
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This may be my favourite one yet from you know who
NancyJohnson replied to ead's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
All me own work, guv! I should be working in design. I have another one on my PC. -
Wonderful Christmastime by Macca/Wings makes me feel very warm and fuzzy any time I hear it. My dad loved Christmas. Little kid joy. I just remember him, 7.00am Christmas morning, opening my bedroom door, cup of tea for me in one hand, a little Hitachi radio-cassette player in the other, Wonderful Christmastime blaring, and him shouting, 'Come on boy! Time for the up! It's Christmaaaaaaas!'.