rmorris

"...since it has stainless steel frets they would need to be making sure that they are level before leaving the factory" ????

I think the issue is whether it would rigid enough for a scratch plate if it's covering cavities ?

Isn't the message here that it will likely be fine but in some cases not ? Basically - Quality Control. So what is the returns policy. Obviously that doesn't cover long term performance. But in that context - I have both Westone basses (Matsomoku) and OLP basses. All good stuff but different constructions (apart from anything else) but the Westones are much more stable (basically never need adjustment) cf the OLPs that often need monitoring and truss rod tweaks.

It depends on how much fret buzz you're willing to tolerate. Judging by the interweb a lot of people don't mind it to a degree that I find intrusive and just unpleasant.

What sizes are the medium gauge strings ?

Yes - this. If the string is a tad sharp give it a pull - like when you stretch new strings for tuning stability.

Well it's really based more on pro audio rather than HiFi. HiFi 'nonsense' sort of frowned upon and sort of an "Anti-Gearspace". Some good knowledge and advice there plus a good deal on valves and transformers too.

If they are like the black multipin pre to power connector in my old GP7 head then it probably is a good solution to interconnection. I think the manufacturer is AMP. The connectors are basically aimed at automotive / vehicular applications and there are definitely vibration issues in that environment. They can seem not very 'solid' as the pins noticeably move (ie 'floating' pins) but is a deliberate design point so that the connection can move within limits and not snap as they might if 'solid'. They have a good deal of contact area so should be fine esp as they would be disconnected only for service or maintenance. Problems can and do arise where the quality of the crimp connection is not good - inappropriate size / type of wire or crimping technique / tooling in poor condition...

Thanks. As it happens I work with / use test equipment that is very very serious kit and calibrated so I should be able to compare if I get one of these for my own use.

Guess that's right. I did know about graphite in the slots. Sort of obvious - Graphtec etc. I guess graphite powder would be useful too.

Hey ! Look at you matching transistors 🙂 You should come over and have a look at the GroupDIY "Pro Audio" website (my better half is disappointed that it's not about putting up shelves etc...)

Oh that's interesting. Is there any measure of accuracy / calibration required or advised ? Thanks for the heads up.

Yeah - but what hardness of pencil ! HB ? HB1 ? (I forget how those grades work right now tbh 🙂

I had / have (haven't powered the amp for a while) a similar issue with a Trace GP7 (early model). Mostly fine and dandy but will sometimes drop in output level dramatically and sound goes all wrong. 'Thumping' it sometimes resolves it - for a short while anyway - or power on/off. If it's not going to work straight after powering I can tell as it makes a different and louder turn on thump noise compared to when it's all good. Previously it went off to some ex-Trace people in Essex to look at this. Lots of resoldering in the power amp section but the problem still apparent intermittently. Resevoir Capacitors changed esp since >20 years old but no change. And I've been over solder joints and renewed the thermal grease for the output transistors...still has a problem.

Yeah - was just going to post similar about the battery connector. And 'Phantom Power' as usually used for powering microphones + doesn't really match well with jack plugs due to the inevitable shorting you mention. Usually only on XLR connections where Pin1 connects first. And it still presents some design challenges to avoid problems. I'd be surprised if current demand were a problem - depends on the circuit of course, but I run a Sansamp Bass DI from Phantom and no issues. I forget the 'official spec'' for Phantom Current atm. The circuitry might need more complexity to use / regulate the nominal 48V.

I guess you could fit an RC network / filter to the battery output with a long enough time constant to avoid sudden turn on of the electronics. Slight delay before circuit is powered may be unnerving ? Or a delayed relay / switch that is closed a short time after power is applied - similar to what's often used in hifi amps to avoid turn on thumps. + ac couple the output signal with a pull down resistor to 0V after the capacitor. Or something... tbh I'd just go with the push/pull pot idea and live with any turn on / off transients.

Optionally avoid soldering altogether with something like this (space permitting). https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/splice-connectors/5104804/

Bough a bargain TC Wiretap pedal from Jimmy. Excellent condition and super quick delivery. Thanks.

Yes. You'd need something like a switch that ramped up/down to avoid clicks and thumps. Typically this is done by using a jfet transistor to switch but it's not easy in a bass as you need to generate additional power rail(s) to make it work well. SSM used to make an integrated switch ic solution for this that was quite widely used in mixing desks etc. but it's no longer made.

Yes - used for "normalling" in patchbays - ie the 'normal' signal route exists with no plug inserted and the signal routing is modified when you plug in to put another piece of kit in the chain. And in headphone / speaker automatic switching etc. On an amplifier input the switched contacts are 'normally' connected to 0V so that the amp is quiet when no cable plugged in. Otherwise the high impedance of the input would pick up noise. Plugging a cable in replaces 0V with the signal from the guitar. The contact nearest the front of the socket would usually connect to 0V anyway so the switching on that contact may have no effect (although the designer might do something not straightforward with the 0V / Screen connection) but those sockets are mass produced like that.

It's 2021. We need Bluetooth connectivity, Retina Recognition and GPS on all basses at a minimum. Oh hold on - that's mobile phones. I'll go with the push-pull pot switch...

Mmmm...this is getting proper complex now. And you'd need to reliably sense the bass being played - take a signal direct from a pickup ? MEMS device ? At this rate I'll be suggesting Phantom Power 🙂

Yeah - why didn't I think of that option ! I had thought about the rear cavity cover option if the bass allows it. But this is better imo. Excellent stuff. Make it pull out to power off so you won't accidentally turn it off mid solo ! Now, of course there'll be the question of a suitable value / taper / mechanical size / shaft size and type...

Excellent stuff. I knew someone in Sussex would be able to do it 🙂 Could maybe use a larger jack body - Neutrik or Switchcraft ? I think Neutrik make one for speaker cable sized cable - it might be bigger internally. Not sure. and a cutout in the metal shell for the switch ?

Does the bass have a 'Passive' option - as opposed to being either active(powered) or no sound ? In any case the electronics is relatively simple. I'm thinking physically fitting the switch and led would be the biggest thing to sort ?