rmorris

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matsumoku-4-string-Electric-Bass-Guitar-USED-Solid-body-Working/363275760202?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D5197860e9952423886c609e0fb5d692f%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D392203736363%26itm%3D363275760202%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042

Okay. Let me know. Having something of a general declutter here so please be quickish if you do want any of it. I guess I could post - esp if I take the neck off for easier packaging - but I'm thinking the time and postage cost would be prohibitively high wrt the value of the kit.

No . Bolt on. Neck Plate + 4 Big Screws.

Hi. I've given up on an "Audition" brand bass - probably Teisco in origin. So neck has a back-bow that I haven't been able to fix with clamps / heat. No bridge and body is marked where I tried to sort this. Includes the control plate and wiring/controls but no pickup (as I'm keeping it). Nut included although it has come loose from the neck. Zero Fret btw. So if you want this - £free but you need to collect from Brighton although drop might be possible in nearby Sussex locations. Please ask. Thanks for reading.

For the OP - Apologies if this appears basic - but have you tried with different string brands etc, in case it's a string issue. What are those strings on there in the pics. Having said that I think I have something similar, maybe not as marked, on a Hohner B2A. Pickup and string options are somewhat limited on that given pickup dimensions and double ball end strings for headless. Secondly - on the bass itself - I see it's the Wilkes fretless but with metal plates for percussive slapping etc. Not for me tbh - but takes me back to Stoke-on-Trent when I was a student there and the local Wilkes was making a name for his instruments in the Bass world. IIRC he pulled back from going full on 'commercial' but kept on producing what he wanted to do in a small scale way.

Does anyone have a UK source for this or an equivalent. Looks interesting - I just don't want to pay basically the same for shipping as the thing itself 🙂

Okay - I'm going to say it ! Do you really need to have it white rather than Fiesta Red and spray over a factory finish ?

Errr...No. realistically, semiconductors handling small signals don't get permanently damaged by being underpowered. It's just not a 'thing'.

I looked up the supply on Google/Amazon. Seems its outputs are individually protected. It's possible that the problem is with failed PSU outputs rather than the pedals ? Have you tried the pedals on other knowingly good supplies ?

Yes - with a typical (for guitar stuff) centre negative dc jack the outer barrel is V+ and a metal case is OV. So touching can short out the PSU - although often the paint on the pedal will avoid that happening, That may damage the PSU if it isn't protected against - but not the pedal since no significant current reaches it.

Ha! From the photo I'm thinking it's just the head so could be pulled over quite easily although it'd probably just pull a jack plug out ? Still funny though 🙂

Yeah - XLR simply sometimes used as a more secure physical (unbalanced) connection wrt a Jack. eg Hohner B2A etc. Although as I see it it sort of depends if you'd rather pull your amp/stack over rather than have your bass unplugged ?

Thanks for posting. Doesn't affect me but useful information in general. The 'Pin 3 = Signal +' convention is/was (?) I believe used by Shure Microphones ? But a Shure Mic XLR output will likely be balanced so the only issue would be polarity reversal. As you point out - if you unbalance the signal at one end then you have a problem as you are 'grounding' the only signal. The 'proper' AES way is, of course.: X(1)= Screen (and it should go directly to (metal) chassis but that's a slightly different subject) ; L(2) = 'Signal +' (ie the signal - original polarity) ; R(3) = 'Signal -' (ie the signal - opposite polarity). Now 'balanced' outputs may not have signal on both pins 2 and 3 if they are 'Impedance Balanced' or 'Ground Cancelling' so they will also have a problem with non-standard wiring. Personally I'd recommend rewiring to standard if practicable. Obviously it's a lot easier if connections are wired (just swapping over two wires) rather than on a PCB (where you'd need to cut and patch tracks). But then you'd be able to plug in anything - mics or other 'balanced' or unbalanced sources - and it should all work. On another point from the thread - I'd recommend Caig DeOxit products for contact cleaning etc. Basically remove oxide with DeOxit stuff. And remove grease/oil contamination with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA - but not the sort that comes in cans/bottles 🙂

I'm looking to get a single 'reduced OD washer' to fix up a Vintage (Brand not age !) bass where I've fitted a 'standard' machine head where there wasn't one. Looking for approx 12mm hole in 19mm Overall Diameter or similar. I can find 12 in 20mm (compared to standard 24mm) but I don't really want to buy a 'bagfull' when all but one would probably sit in a drawer indefinitely. So if anyone has something similar and would let me know then I'd be grateful. Keep Safe People

Happy New Tear to all. I'm trying to sort out something with a 'funny' little Satellite 'Bass'. Well I say bass but while it has 4 strings it's 24" scale length so less than a Strat ! So I'm thinking to string it with guitar strings - possibly heavy gauge but whatever to hand for now. I've replaced the poor bridge design - a single threaded rod with 'roller saddles' on it with individual bridge saddles at minimum spacing (ie touching) to get a narrow string spacing. That seems to work fine. But it's missing a machinehead. It has closed 'elephant ear' types with approx 12mm heasdstock hole with insert for approx 10mm post. Not very standard. Anyone know of machineheads to fit this or a bushing to adapt other sizes to a 12mm hole - I'd prefer to not have to drill / ream out the existing hole(s). Not really bothered by the type although a single elephant ear type would be good. Thanks.

Try White Spirit else https://www.toolstation.com/zep-commercial-sticky-stuff-remover/p64339?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImfWV7a237QIVA-ztCh2KqgFhEAQYASABEgLCyvD_BwE

Bridge removed from CMI EB3 Copy. I should probably keep it but it was never the best design approach and I'm not really bothered about originality. So if you want it come and get it ! No money asked but postage probably a few £ that I'd appreciate being returned. Or collect in Brighton.

So do you get the same problem with the 5 string if you power with batteries. (If you haven't tried it with batteries - then do it 🙂

PMed

Ibanez ATK200 Pickup. This developed a sort of microphonic problem. Not 'squealing' or feeding back but making a loud noise when cover tapped by hand etc. Output cable is cut on the short side as I kept most of it to use with the new pickup but enough left to work with. I've replaced it so if anyone wants it for any reason - test build or whatever - then it's up for free although I'd appreciate the postage cost back. Or if you're in the Brighton area then can collect or drop off. Quick response if wanted as bit of a declutter so it won't be hanging around for long.

What's the story there ? Problems with the bass as supplied ?

As others have said - old phone chargers almost certainly 5V. But it will likely be marked on the charger anyway if you look closely enough together with the current rating. Apart from that they are likely to be noisy for audio use.

Agreed. Prefer cocktail sticks also for their smaller diameter. I'm fairly sure I have some at home just not 100% certain if and where !

Yeah. That's what I do in general. Cocktail stick or matchstick and a bit of wood glue. If serious strength needed leaving it to set for days not hours regardless of what it says on the bottle.

Quick (?) question. If fitting a drop in replacement bridge or ,for that refitting original bridge that has been removed for some reason - do you do any filling on the existing holes to give the screw something to bite into ? For general DIY I would do this but it doesn't seem to be a thing with bridge replacement ?