rmorris

Web search gives quite a few results eg (local to myself) [url="http://www.brightonandhoveplastics.co.uk/index.php/4"]http://www.brightonandhoveplastics.co.uk/index.php/4[/url] although you'd probably want to find simeone nearer.

I got a set of the 'budget' Arkay (in Red) from Fretfunk via ebay. Good Service / Delivery. Strings seem okay - not really tested them too much. One point too be aware of though - and I guess this might apply to all coated strings: If you're relying on fingers / hand being in contact with the strings to 'ground' yourself and avoid hum/buzz pickup - the coating isn't really compatible with this. Tending to get 'brushing / rustling' noises as when you make/break contact with strings/hardware. Often it then 'goes quiet' which means either that the coating isn't 100% or that it's thin enough to allow enough capacitance to effectively 'ground' at audio frequencies. Might not be an issue if you're not listening critically or at low gain or low Z pickups. Solution, connect yourself to some other 'earthed' metalwork - equipment chassis etc... The Red strings do look good on a black bass btw :-)

[quote name='Elfrasho' timestamp='1493282332' post='3287062'] Bazztard has pretty much summed it up for me. Not being able to rejig things between songs would worry me. [/quote] I see. But I'd say it was easier to have a few longer patch cables so you can just bypass any problem pedal.

[quote name='bazztard' timestamp='1493210010' post='3286511'] you wouldn't want to lose a cable somewhere in your pedal 'chain' (see what I did there?) halfway thru a gig. How are you going to find the culprit? Unscrew all the pedals so you can see which connector went bad? good luck. not practicle for the working musician, good for bedroom players only. There is a reason why 99 billion flies eat sh!t......also for why most working musos use velcro..... [/quote] Not understanding this...???

I'd recommend making them yourself...

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1492867316' post='3283774'] Any bodgers in here? I have 3 Fdeck HPF filters which I would like to plumb into some cheap DI boxes (like these [url="https://www.thomann.de/gb/millenium_di33.htm"]https://www.thomann....lenium_di33.htm[/url]). If I could power the Fdeck aspects by phantom that would be great, but it would also be handy to screw a 9v socket in there + a mute switch which was silent. One of the Fdecks has a vol control on it, the other two do not. I would like them all to have a volume and a passive roll off. It this the stupidest idea in the world? [/quote] I think we'd need to see the inside of the DI and the size of the HPFs to give any advice...

[quote name='Tech21NYC' timestamp='1492700521' post='3282516'] The Q\Strip was inspired by those old vintage console EQ's but it is a unique design. The intention was that it would be a "musical" vs "surgical" type of product. While having different Q parameters might come in handy for a mastering engineer we chose a medium Q that makes the most sense for musical instrument applications. The use of Mosfets was intentional for the sonic benefits, low noise and also so the unit could be phantom powered. Bipolar transistors would be too power hungry. In the end I would suggest trying one. Specifications are meaningless if you aren't happy with the tone or ease of use. [/quote] Thanks for the reply. It does clarify things a fair bit wrt the transistors. I agree the specs' aren't the important thing but the advertising references the technology and 'inspiration' so the question arises.Good point about the limited power available via phantom. Hopefully you'll get the idea through that it's not a Sansamp type AmpSim unit :-)

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1492691271' post='3282378'] Thanks Lozz, just acquired a B3n but that has no DI out! Wasn't thinking that was going to be a limitation quite so soon! [/quote] Main thing is monitoring - being able to get a decent signal back through the wedges (or whatever) or using IEM. DI - if there's a FOH PA there should be some straightforward DI boxes around to plug your B3n into ?

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1492636584' post='3281960'] Is it not possible to use normal pots of the correct size and value (of course). Just bend the wiper tabs over gently. The tabs may need a trim to fit into the holes. Then be careful refitting and tightening up. Or if the tabs won't bend over, just solder on some small wires to the board then to the tabs. [/quote] +1

It makes a lot of sense to have a console type EQ box even if the price is a bit steep. But I do hav[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]e a bit of a probl[/font]em with the description below: [color=#666666][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=1]"[size=4][i]The 100% analog MOSFET circuitry in the heart of the Q\Strip provides the warmth, girth and larger-than-life tones for which vintage consoles are revered. Add in four bands of pro-audio-quality equalization, two parametric mid bands, as well as high and low shelving filters, and you have incredible control over how your instrument cuts through on stage or in a mix"[/i][/size][/size][/font][/color] [size=4]So the two mid bands are more accurately semi parametric given that there is no switchable or variable Q / Bandwidth control - but that's a minor quibble.[/size] But I have to doubt the bit about MOSFET circuitry to give the characteristics of vintage consoles. I'm reasonably familiar with the technology of such consoles from 60s/70s - both UK and USA origin - but not aware of widespread use of MOSFET devices in Channel EQs. Whilst small signal (as opposed to Power devices) MOSFETS can be used for audio work, in my experience the console EQs tend to be based around Bipolar transistors as the active components (maybe JFET but these used more for signal switching in desks toward the end of this era). More than prepared to be corrected on this as I'd be interested to learn of MOSFET based desks... Of course, the important thing is the sound that comes out of it ...

[quote name='buff' timestamp='1492549809' post='3281208'] Would like to see a side by side comparison with the VT pedal, just to see what your getting for twice the price. [/quote] But it's not the same type of thing at all so a bit apples and pears...

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1492186703' post='3278581'] +1 about not winding strings over themselves. [/quote] +1

Bought a Source Audio BEF from me. Quick payment and let me know it arrived safe and sound. So smiles all round.

[quote name='mathlang' timestamp='1491382008' post='3272517'] Thanks for the replies. - I'm not getting any power when it's on, so I don't think I can check the voltages. - Yes, I've tried different power cables, changed the plug fuses and changed the power socket fuse. I'm seeing power on the internal side of the socket. [/quote] Can you also measure mains voltage on the transformer side of the power switch (when it's ON) ?

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1490824482' post='3268419'] Fabric cables are generally bad news in my experience... play one grotty venue and they pick up the dirt and are impossible to clean up. At least with rubber insulated cable, you can get a cloth and some washing up liquid and clean them all up. [/quote] +1. They look good...Until they get dirty.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1490017257' post='3261457'] If it's a fine cut is it to give you the option of fitting a zero fret where the nut would normally go? Just a thought... [/quote] Good point. But if the neck comes fretted it's probably not intended as you'd need the right tools to bend / fit just one fret ? For fixing the nut I'd simply rely on the string pressure at first till happy then glue it later if necessary. At normal tuning there's a lot of string pressure holding the nut in place.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1489677541' post='3258910'] RE IEC... I actually like powercons, don't go loose over time either. Also, once the button is pressed on the locking socket, the jack should be easily removable so something doesn't sound right there. With regards to mounting Neutrik chassis mount connectors... have you thought about making up a plate and rear mounting them to the plate and then sinking that plate into the side of the board? The fixtures looks a lot nicer rear mounted - and hex bolts (with nyloc nuts behind) make the thing look a lot more pro. That reminds me, I would have all your hardware and bolts matching - e.g. all black. I've done it to the powercons and speakons in this example - [/quote] Yeah - Neutrik PowerCons are good. Secure locking connection. I'd go for the TRUE versions because they are rated for connect / disconnect at load. I use these (in line cable mounting versions) on some (non-audio) high power kit I design. Only reservation is that anything other than IEC type is less universal if you need to get a mains lead quickly or need a longer one etc... Maybe Powercon with an IEC in parallel for 'backup' ???

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1489639109' post='3258549'] Give the soundman two separate feeds as suggested above. Andy - I would watch it if trying to blend a Torpedo with clean DI live. The Torpedo is digital so has a slight processing delay. This is only a few ms, so not big enough to be noticeable by itself, but if you mix that with clean you might experience comb filtering effects like a flanger stuck at one point of its sweep. This is a benefit of the analog nature of the OmniCabSim! [/quote] yeah - that's important to note. You can't really put digital processing in parrallel with an all analogue path due to the delay on the digital signal and resulting phase issues ie comb filtering. But if the Torpedo has a 'clean out' which has the same delay as the CabSim output then that could be used.

I reckon an IEC power socket would be best on the rear face - less likely to tread on power lead - and use a right angle IEC plug on the mains lead too minimise 'stick out' ? Alternatively some users may prefer a captive lead option at a reasonable length to reach a power strip etc. Nice woodworking btw

[quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1489494785' post='3257367'] The more modern Schaller, the 2000, can get you down to a smidge over 15mm. (also up to about 20, I think) I have this model on a couple of basses, 4 and 5 string. [url="https://www.schaller-electronic.com/hp135112/Bass-Bridge-2000-4-string.htm"]https://www.schaller...00-4-string.htm[/url] [/quote] That bridge does look good ! I like it :-)

forgot to say... the other option I toyed with was using those individual nuts where there's one per string so you can get whatever you need. But the placement is more work and trigonometry ! They also seem to require some 'woodwork' beyond just drilling...

well do check the spacing you need. Mine seemed to be particularly narrow. Maybe yours is wider ? 16mm would make things a lot easier...