rmorris

[quote name='Twigman' timestamp='1442849029' post='2869973'] I had this problem with a bass once and found that the bridge wire was connected to one pot, the output jack earth was connected to the other pot but the two pot bodies weren't connected meaning the first pot was not earthed properly. [/quote] yep - that'll cause a problem. Basically - test for continuity from the strings / bridge to the Earth Pin on the amp mains lead. (Assuming 3 wire connection)

[quote name='ProfFrink' timestamp='1442493681' post='2867335'] That's exactly what I thought when I was shopping for a PS, but most of the big-name PS's actually do have the transformers right inside the main PS box, and people told me that they never had any issues. I eventually did something which could be considered even worse, and bought 2 PS's - Cioks link Schizophrenic and Adam - which are linked by what seems to be an non-shielded adaptor, so I basically have 2 short runs of exposed 50Hz radiation right on the underside of my pedaltrain (the main cord to the Schiso and the link to the Adam) and at least 2 transformers (though these seem to be heavily shielded) but still no noticeable hum... [/quote] yes - much depends on the how the transformers are shielded and the type of transformer construction - Toroidal types generally have less radiated noise than 'standard' construction types ( the exact term eludes me - end of a long day :-). Or to be more exact the field produced is more contained and so the cables etc 'see' less of it. It's worthwhile bearing in mind that what might not be noticed in a live / rehearsal / amp situation might become an issue in recording / DI etc.

[quote name='stevebasshead' timestamp='1442448827' post='2867110'] Have you considered going to a battery pack instead? I've ditched external power supplies and been using a single rechargeable battery to power all my effects, I use the Sanyo Eneloop Pedal Juice [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sanyo-eneloop-Pedal-Juice-battery/dp/B007BZAGW4"]http://www.amazon.co...y/dp/B007BZAGW4[/url] It's superb. I run 2x500ma multi effects units and a TC Polytune and it easily lasts 2 sets with 30-40% power leftover. And it means one less mains socket to hunt out for powering your pedals from and a less leads trailing about the stage. Being battery powered it eliminates mains hum from entering the FX signal chain. There are two output sockets on it so you can run two daisy chains but I have to be honest, I don't know if it would eliminate nose introduced by some digital pedals, either on the same daisy chain or on a second one from the other output socket. Could be worth dropping Sanyo support an email to confirm that? But I can day I have no noise from either of my two Zoom digital multi FX units and they both run off the same single daisy chain from the battery. Edit to add: Another plus point is the Eneloop rechargeable technology means the battery holds its charge for years so no need to worry if you charge the battery and your next gig is weeks or even months away. [/quote] That looks a nice product - especially the type of battery that holds its charge over time. There's no fundamental reason it would get rid of 'digital' noise as all units still share the same 'Ground' connection so the noise can still get around. A good mains powered supply shouldn't be introducing any mains hum into its dc output. But the 'ground loops' can pick up mains interference radiated from the transformers (or other frequencies from any switch mode supplies used) and so not having mains transformers etc near the pedals etc can be an advantage. What will actually cause a noticeable problem can be tricky to guess as it all depends on the specific setup and grounding and earthing details.

Digital fx pedals / multifx generally require their own aupply else much digital / clock noise gets around. All setups will benefit from isolated supplies as daisy chains introduce 'ground loops' by definition. A daisy chain setup may noy have any noticeable noise issues in a given situation but will be more susceptible to interference in general. Keeping cables short will minimise this as it minimises the loop area.

You can strip the cable with a sharp craft knife / scalpel and a steady hand. To avoid nicking the screen I'd suggest scoring round the outer insulation but not cutting through completely - then flexing it until it breaks such that you can see some of the screen through it. Then use finger power to flex it further pull away the outer insulation completely. If it's too thick then score deeper or 'carve' some of it away. You'll then need to seperate and twist the screen away from the inner core and strip this as required. This can again be done with a knife but would be easier with a wire stripping tool. There should be a 'noise reducing screen' over the insulation of the centre core - probably a dark / black colour and like rubber. This needs to be cut/stripped back such that it doesn't touch the centre signal wire. Back to the initial stripping of the outer insulation - this can be made easier if you can get hold of a 'Cyclops' cable stripper or similar as used for stripping Coaxial cables. See TLC electrical catalogue etc.

'Standard' use for thes cables is send/return for unbalanced insert points on mixing desk channels where tip and ring are used for input / output (sometimes the other way round). Studiospares option looks like a longer length if preferable. [url="https://www.studiospares.com/Cables-Leads/Leads-Splitter/Stereo-Jack-2x-Mono-Jack-Socket-Splitter-20cm_591790.htm?ne=AwAAAA0AAAAEEk1vbm9KYWNrIHNvY2tldCB4Mg0AAAAEC01vbm9KYWNrIHgyDQAAAAQSTW9ub0phY2sgc29ja2V0IHgy"]https://www.studiospares.com/Cables-Leads/Leads-Splitter/Stereo-Jack-2x-Mono-Jack-Socket-Splitter-20cm_591790.htm?ne=AwAAAA0AAAAEEk1vbm9KYWNrIHNvY2tldCB4Mg0AAAAEC01vbm9KYWNrIHgyDQAAAAQSTW9ub0phY2sgc29ja2V0IHgy[/url]

What is the panel cut out size ? Do you know the frequency range spec' on it ?

Any ideas where best to buy small pieces of suitable woods ?

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1439414361' post='2842751'] If this is true, why do the manufacturers ever fit the earth? The earth is there in case a fault was to occur. The only way to electrically isolate your strings would be to cover them in insulating material. Trust me, there is something wrong with your bass. You simply haven't found it. [/quote] I thought I'd posted here yesterday but can't see it. It is safer without the 'string earthing' as it avoids the possibilty of the 'earth' wire being miswired somewhere else (in the amp etc) and being wrongly connected to mains or another high voltage (eg in a tube amp). However, no string grounding / earthing will generally cause hum/buzz when you touch (or are near) the strings because you are not 'grounded'. To diagnose, get a multimeter with a continuity beeper and check for continuity from the bridge to the sleeve of the output jack then to the earth pin of the amp's mains input and earth pin of the plug. I'm assuming the amplifier is a standard '3 wire' mains connection.

[quote name='LayDownThaFunk' timestamp='1439331925' post='2842050'] BDI21. More reliable. [/quote] Not sure if it's more reliable generally but it's definitely worth the cost. Sounds like the Sansamp. Build quality seems better than its reputation (although the footswitch is a bit of an odd thing). It doesn't run off Phantom Power in case that is an issue.

yeah - that's it. Get a multimeter with a continuity beeper and check out if it gets to the jack output.

Sounds like your bridge isn't connected to the 'ground' (screen connection of jack ). There should be a wire from the bridge (usually underneath or so not visible) to a 'ground' point - often the case of a pot is used. So check the continuity there. If that okay check the continuity to the earth pin on the amps power input.

Try running it on Phantom power if you have that on a mixing desk input / mic pre etc. Would give you a better idea of where the problem may be. Have you contacted Tech21 Customer Support ?

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1439249317' post='2841351'] Ok great thanks for the advice. I shall look for another or use two caps to make up the value/voltage. I also removed the so called death cap. On another note are old valves worth anything? Even a few quid or should they be retained for future test purpose or binned? [/quote] I guess the death cap is a cap across the mains live and neutral which can develop a leakage current over time and pose a hazard ? What is the amp in question ?

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1439249317' post='2841351'] Ok great thanks for the advice. I shall look for another or use two caps to make up the value/voltage. I also removed the so called death cap. On another note are old valves worth anything? Even a few quid or should they be retained for future test purpose or binned? [/quote]

Check continuity between strings / bridge / sleeve of output jack / lead. No continuity will cause buzzing when you touch the strings / metalwork as you are acting as an antennae for interference. To confirm this touch the strings (causing the buzzing) then with your other hand touch some metalwork you know should be connected to ground / earth eg metal barrel of a jack plug going into an amp / screw on rack unit / Copper water pipe etc and the buzzing should go away. (You are keeping yourself at a fixed potential and so now not acting as an antennae).

[quote name='morgano' timestamp='1439243005' post='2841308'] Yes, those seem OK apart from the 65V alternative. It isn't safe to go for a lower voltage rating than the original. A higher voltage rating is generally OK, but the capacitors may be bigger and might not fit - it is worth checking the dimensions. On that note, if these are PCB mounting (radial type) check the lead spacing, as this can vary, and ideally you want to match the spacing of the existing components. [/quote] +1 The 50uF in place of 40uF might place a higher strain on the psu/transformer depending on the specifics of the power supply but given that most electrolytics start off @ +/- 20% and decrease the capacitance value over time there's not really much to worry about. As others have stated you shouidn't really replace a 65Vdc cap with a 50Vdc cap. It'll almost certainly work at first but, all other things being equal, it's useful lifetime will be curatailed.. 68uF is a standard value so something like 68uF / 100V would be good. Capacitor ratings can be confusing but if possible I'd say go for 105 deg C rated caps cf the cheaper 85 deg C versions. Gives longer useful life. In general a low ESR figure is advantageous and usually equates with an increased ripple current spec'.

[quote name='Stefanogregori' timestamp='1439221982' post='2840995'] Second quote 50 quid plus VAT! [/quote] At a guesstimate the £36+VAT sounds pretty keenly priced to me for a 'one off' - well 'four off' I guess.

I've recently been playing around with fitting a nut (cheap / plastic)to a bass (as it happens to a CMI brand EBO type short scale but that's not really important ). Simple I thought - get the nut area clean and flat - remove any old adhesive residue etc - tiny drops of superglue and I haver small ratchet bar clamps. The issue I came across was when using the clamp. Since the back of the neck at the nut isn't flat or parallel with the front the clamp doesn't necessarily sit right and can tend to push the top of the nut backwards or forwards such that the nut may not be perpendicular to the fretboard. I was thinking that it might be preferable not to clamp, at least in this way. I'm thinking that fitting strings and using them to clamp the nut while the glue sets might be a better option - although I can't use it in this case as the bass doesn't yet have a bridge ! (another story...) Enough of my ramblings...luthiers please comment...

Your best bet is to get some quotes and compare. There are quite a lot of plating companies around - mainly targeted at the car / boat restoration market but it's the same to plate brass anything. Would be interesting if you lety us know what you find. btw - are you plating them for aesthetic or technical reasons - or both ? Without knowing the bridge itself, it occurs to me that it might work out more cost effective to buy new chromed saddles ?

[quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1438941101' post='2838789'] Ah okay, i must have coppied the wrong tabs url. [url="http://www.davehallamps.co.uk/page55a.html"]Here[/url] should be the right link. [/quote] yep - no Bluetooth or USB protocol there :-)

[quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1438895228' post='2838566'] Sorry i probably didnt explain myself properly. OP was saying that theyd like a blend. I thought that a small/cheap blend loop pedal might be easier than trying to find a fuzz with blend control. I know they said it wasnt necessary, but thought it might be helpful anyhow. [/quote] Yes, I got that abouta blend/loop pedal and I agree it's probably a better way to go. But the '???...' was because when I followed the link it goes to a web page for a USB / Arduino add on widget :-)

[quote name='lefrash' timestamp='1438723056' post='2836756'] I'm looking for a fuzz pedal. Ideally it will have a blend but not essential. I'm skint too. So, lets hear about all your cheapo fuzz finds! I'm thinking of joyo, Harley Benton, all the Chinese copies...... Any wee gems out there [/quote] Not sure that these type of questions really get anywhere unless some reference tones are given.

[quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1438780476' post='2837202'] [url="http://redbearlab.com/blendmicro/"]This[/url] is a tiny cheap blend pedal that you might find useful. [/quote] ???????????????

[quote name='PMcC' timestamp='1438166211' post='2832163'] Take a look a Deoxit D5, this stuff is the business...proper clean plus. I've used it on, amongst other things, a '70s Fender Champ that had severe crackling on the volume pot, probably its first ever clean! Result...back to 'as new' and still crackle free after two years. Not all cleaners are equal. P! [/quote] +1 for the Caig DeOxit products