rmorris

On the JOYO Ultimate Drive - well it's a preety good clone of the Fulltone OCD. I'm not (yet at least) a fan but that goes for both the expensive Fulltone and the JOYO.

Was it a wire into a connector or straight into a pcb ?

What's the cable configuration on these ?

having a play - I do indeed get more interesting results with the Guitar Pod (Version 2) than the Bass Pod.

The Vintage Overdrive is very good imo - prob my favourite Joyo pedal atm - as are some of their larger 'AMp Model' pedals - 'British Sound' etc. There are some reports of switch problems and I have a pedal - 'AC Tone' I think - which arrived not working from ebay so hoping that it's a switch problem that I can sort without too much problem. But sonically have to say the Joyo pedals are good and the metal pedal housings seem sturdy. Not sure about the pots and jacks as not enough time/use to judge but they look/feel good to me.

I should probably mention that I also have the Line6 Pod Version 2 (for Guitar). Not used that for a while but it is much more of a sonic 'hit' when used on Guitar. For comparison to the Bass Pod - Both Sansamp BDDI and Behringer BD121 sound more convincing to my ears and several 'Amp Modelling' pedals from Joyo etc do a pretty good job even if targeted more at Electric Guitar.

Talking about the original (not XT etc) Kidney bean shaped unit. I had one and didn't feel I got much from it and sold it. Another came up cheap enough so I thought I'd give it another go. Not used it for a while but just got it plugged in ( into Mixer XChannel / Monitor Speaker setup ). Scrolling through the amp modelsat 50% Drive setting and tone controls at 12 o'clock I just don't get much of a 'feel' from it except for Amp Models 'SUB DUB' (obvious) and 'AMP 360' (based it says on Acoustic 360 amp) p[lus the straight 'Tube Preamp' setting might be generally useful. I know there's endless permutations of Models / DRIVE settings plus EQ including Mid Sweep where available plus Compression parameter even before I get to the effects - But I was wondering:[list] [*]What is the general opinion on the origibnal Bass Pod as there doesn't seem to be a great deal of enthusiasm for it compared to the Guitar version ? [*]Are later versions - XT etc a significant improvement ? [/list] Thanks in advance for your input

[quote name='Defo' timestamp='1421255880' post='2659042'] What would happen if I used the 12v outputs on my Harley Benton Powerplant to power standard 9V Boss/MXR pedals? Does anyone else do this? Thanks Andy [/quote] Are the 12V outputs regulated ? In general I don't think it will do any harm since the 9V figure is likely just a convenient value as available from a PP3 battery cell. I run some pedals from an unregulated '9V' AC adaptor but that 9V is the voltage @ 1 Amp of current. The voltage is more at typical pedal current levels. I know as I've measured it - I don't have the figures to hand but as I recall it's in the region of 11 to 12 Vdc. You might find leds run a bit brighter which will affect their expected lifetime slightly but that isn't really a major issue with pedal use. Of course - don't sue me if it goes wrong :-)

M2 30mm Black Pozi CSK Have to buy min 100 it seems. They also listed in smaller quantity from same supplier on Amazon but showing as out of stock [url="http://www.accuscrews.co.uk/black-pozi-countersunk-screws/26765-SPK-M2-30-A2-BL.html?uk_google_shopping&gclid=CM_5ysqihMMCFVHItAodH0YAjw"]http://www.accuscrew...CFVHItAodH0YAjw[/url]

yeah - better to have said 'different' grades since it's all dependent on desired characteristics. It happens that simply cold working a 'non magnetic' stainless steel will make it a litte bit magnetic - though probably not relevant to guitar string manufacture.

There are different grades of 'stainless steel'. 'Lower grades' can exhibit ferromagnetic properties.

[quote name='umpdv5000' timestamp='1419770963' post='2642555'] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=5]As a luthier I can confirm that most guitar builders will use a slightly highter fret for the Zero fret, although this is as much a technical matter as it is a preference. In a perfect engineering world, it should be exactly the same height as the rest. However, there are two things to take into account....[/size][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=5]1. Player enthusiasm. Any string will rattle a bit if you hit it hard enough and so many players have been used to giving the open strings an extra whack whilst expecting them to be rattle free. A slightly higher fret will better allow this.[/size][/font] [font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][size=5]2. Getting an angle over the Zero fret so that it connects firmly. When a regular nut slot is cut, the bottom of the slot is not parallel to the fretboard. It is cut sloping toward the head so as to pivot on the fretboard edge of the nut. A Zero fret still needs a sufficient angle in order that the string frets properly. As long as the wood between the deep cut nut string guides does not inhibit this, then a Zero fret of the same height will work perfectly well and depending on the player, be more preferable. [/size][/font] [/quote] I get the second point but not the first... I'm not sure why a player would hit an open string harder than a fretted string - although oddly it does instinctively seem that it might be the case !

They look great ! Can you give the ordering/supplier details and cost ? Nice job :-)

You should be able to pick up a decent stereo hifi amp for ,say, £50 on Gumtree / Ebay. on selling the SVT3 Pro - guess how quickly you can shift it depends on how much you're asking and condition. Also whether offering to post / parcel it . Good Luck.

The possible issue with having the zero fret (or nut) uniform with the other 'regular' frets is that the string is always anchored there. This can lead to additional string on fret contact noise from the 'non sounding' section of string when fretting notes. I'll agree that this might not apply to an instrument set up 'perfectly' to avoid this but that's a tall order. And it won't matter to many players but it can be a reason to have zero fret / nut height a tad higher. The nearer it is to uniform will benefit intonation etc.

Back on topic: Get the Guitars to cut their low end below 150 to 200Hz. Bear in mind that for recording purposes it's usual to do this even though it sounds not so great in isolation. You may need to boost mids to get audible. Again may not sound great soloed but works better in band contest. Assuming all bass guitar coming from your amp then it's going to be something of a compromise between monitor sound and what the audience hears. More esoterically: If Kick Drum is double headed try to tune it to mask your bass less Consider if in ear monitors are practicable ? Good Luck !....

re: PS: Is it just me that finds typing on here difficult?????? Keeps missing letters Strangely that happens from my work PC (lunchtimes of course :-) and also it doesn't work with the 'Quote' functions. But home PC is fine. Firewall etc ???

Just to reinforce the idea that 31 band graphics are essentially used to 'tune' PAs to rooms by compensating for acoustic anomalies. A good 4 band parametric with variable or switchable Q and a choice of peak or shelf on the High and Low Bands would be a betoter option for comprehensive tone eq (think good mixing desk channel).