rmorris

Go with Neutrik on the jacks. They have a 'proper' adjusting collet mechanism to grip the cable rather than some bit of metal to bend into place. Plus a decent contact for the screen connection and the construction doesn't have the rivet that often comes loose and spins round in lesser connectors.

Could try to pick up an Alesis NanoCompressor on ebay etc.

Just took a look at Accucase bags on Thomann. Look pretty good and affordable. (I would have included the original post but the Quote feature not working from this PC. Some setting or other I guess)

The Mono Producer looks really nice . Not Cheap though !

[quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1414013019' post='2584941'] . An active bass already buffers the signal, increasing the impedance so that it can drop furtherer before the effects are noticeable. .[/quote] Not quite. The active circuit lowers the output impedance of the signal. This does mean that more level is delivered to the next stage in the signal path (rather than being dropped over the impedance of the pickup itself ). Then it gets a bit more complicated due to reactive impedances ( Inductance / Capacitance ) which give frequency and phase effects.

Okay. Just took a look at the weblink. Fair bit of 'marketing speak' on there. So, to be clear. the transducers are part of the Blastcircuit system ? And the microphonic noise appears to be caused by tapping the preamp (ie not the pickups themselves). If that's the case then first suspects would be capacitors esp Electroytics then Ceramics ... Try tapping them with a pencil and see if that makes a noise though the amp...

Not familiar with the Blast Cult preamp. Tubes / Solid State ?

Hi all. I 've never really got the hang of these feedback pages on here and landed here by accident just now. Thanks for all your comments. Robert

But as I read it the OP is looking to mount it with the instrument against the wall horizontally or diagonally to display it ?

It would make these sort of discussions much more useful if people referenced the sort of sounds and tones they are looking to get...

Are we sure the red component is a capacitor ? I thought it might be a MOV Varistor for Overvoltage protection ?

Leads in 2014 are pretty much the same as in 1994 !!! If your Whirlwinds are not showing signs of wear and tear then there's no real reason to change. If you need new leads then I'd go along the lines of Klotz Instrument Cable with Neutrik or Switchcraft jacks. I think Studiospares have cables like this.

well it would seem that the two cables aren't wired the same. Most likely to myself would be one cable having 'L' (pin 2) connected to 'GND/Screen' (pin1) an the other having 'R' (pin3) connected to pin1. Both of these cables could function between a balanced output and input but not when in series. Should be easy enough to undo XLR connectors and take a look or buzz out with a DMM.

Well the 20 Ohm itself wouldn't be significant wrt a typical input impedance of 100K - 1M0 on an amp or even a typical 10K of a line input. But it does indicate something wrong with the construction of the cable since it shouldn't be that high. Since it seems possible to measure a dc resistance then that indicates it's not a complete break in the cable itself. Something in the plug(s) appears to be introducing excessive signal to screen capacitance. Possibly strands from the signal wire being displaced such that it comes very close to the screen ?

Have you made any enquiries about getting it fixed ?

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1405344800' post='2501000'] You need to connect the paint - I presume you mean conductive paint - to the earth coming in from the jack socket, which should also be wired to the pot bodies. Usually a screw is fitted anywhere convenient in the control cavity, with a solder tag making good contact with the paint & the wire soldered from there to the earths mentioned above^ wherever is easy. Cheerz, John [/quote] +1 - yes make sure it is indeed [b]conductive[/b] paint ( not insulating as that's the opposite of what you need ). If you could use copper tape (with conductive adhesive if needed then that would be preferable but the paint should work fairly well if that's not practicable).

If the heating is sustained for any lengthed of time then it's not a dead short as the battery would cease to be a battery very quickly. But sounds like excessive current demand. Without looking at the circuit maybe some issue with a polarity reversal protection diode ?

Have to say I'm confused by the description of the setup. A diagram of some sort would clarify. tbh most good quality modern power amps should be okay with a nominal 2 ohm load but fidelity might be compromised.

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1400771338' post='2456846'] As alluded to already, volume pots themselves also contribute to perceived brightness through the height of the peak at resonance, as opposed to capacitance loading which alters frequency of that peak. For absolute max top end not only should you bypass the tone control but also the volume pots (wire pickups straight to output jack). If that's still not enough then you need to look elsewhere in the signal chain [/quote] +1 Start here and that's as bright as it gets so you can use that as a reference. One proviso is to go into an input ( amp / pedal / whatever ) that has a 'medium' impedance say 330KOhm to 1MegOhm. With passive pickups which have a lot of inductance lower impedance can give unusual though interesting effects and higher values emphasise a resonant frequency which you may , or may not , favour. It all depends on the exact characteristics of the pickup(s) but as a rule of thumb... tbh never really sure why such attention paid to passive 'on bass' tone options when you generally have much more control on your preamp / amp.

Noise lower with 5532. I think the 4558 clip might have a little more level ? which could account for (Beer's) opinion about sounding clearer. Also high frequency noise may lead to perception of enhanced higher frequencies through psychoacoustic effects. It might be good to try replacing the other 4558 too if pinouts are identical (all pins) ? I've always been led to believe that the big noise factor in analogue chorus (and other time based effects) is the analogue 'Bucket Brigade Device' (BBD) device(s).

Are the screws going straight into the wood or into threaded inserts ? Either way , multiple insertions / removals may have blunted the grip of the screws so I'd suggest new screws if not tried already.

Toothbrush or similar to brush off the gunk. Could use the pcb cleaner etc. but I tend to avoid that if possible because it tends to be horrible caustic stuff to be around. I'd try Isopropyl Alcohol as it's benign ( except to rubber - of course don't drink it :-) and a good degreaser. I don't suppose you oould get the pcbsinto an Ultrasonic cleaning tank ? But that would be good. In general it's the mechanical bits that may be the problem - pots and switches. Take a look at the Caig DeOxit products - they really work well.

It's still puzzling though. SInce still a problem on battery power my best gues would be that something (rf/emi) is coming in along th the wante signal from the Digitech unit. Could be that the Digitech ouput isn't sufficiently rf filtered and it's causing a problem for the digital circuits in the Nux. Do you have access to any clip on cable ferrites ? If so then try one or more of these on the cable. If you can loop it through a ferrite more than once so much the better. Also a 'worse / longer' cable might actually help due to increase in capacitance reducing rf transmission.

Hi. Good to hear you're enjoying the pedal. Are you using the same power supply and using it just for the MOD core in both scenarios (Working / Not Working ) ?