rmorris

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1405344800' post='2501000'] You need to connect the paint - I presume you mean conductive paint - to the earth coming in from the jack socket, which should also be wired to the pot bodies. Usually a screw is fitted anywhere convenient in the control cavity, with a solder tag making good contact with the paint & the wire soldered from there to the earths mentioned above^ wherever is easy. Cheerz, John [/quote] +1 - yes make sure it is indeed [b]conductive[/b] paint ( not insulating as that's the opposite of what you need ). If you could use copper tape (with conductive adhesive if needed then that would be preferable but the paint should work fairly well if that's not practicable).

If the heating is sustained for any lengthed of time then it's not a dead short as the battery would cease to be a battery very quickly. But sounds like excessive current demand. Without looking at the circuit maybe some issue with a polarity reversal protection diode ?

Have to say I'm confused by the description of the setup. A diagram of some sort would clarify. tbh most good quality modern power amps should be okay with a nominal 2 ohm load but fidelity might be compromised.

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1400771338' post='2456846'] As alluded to already, volume pots themselves also contribute to perceived brightness through the height of the peak at resonance, as opposed to capacitance loading which alters frequency of that peak. For absolute max top end not only should you bypass the tone control but also the volume pots (wire pickups straight to output jack). If that's still not enough then you need to look elsewhere in the signal chain [/quote] +1 Start here and that's as bright as it gets so you can use that as a reference. One proviso is to go into an input ( amp / pedal / whatever ) that has a 'medium' impedance say 330KOhm to 1MegOhm. With passive pickups which have a lot of inductance lower impedance can give unusual though interesting effects and higher values emphasise a resonant frequency which you may , or may not , favour. It all depends on the exact characteristics of the pickup(s) but as a rule of thumb... tbh never really sure why such attention paid to passive 'on bass' tone options when you generally have much more control on your preamp / amp.

Noise lower with 5532. I think the 4558 clip might have a little more level ? which could account for (Beer's) opinion about sounding clearer. Also high frequency noise may lead to perception of enhanced higher frequencies through psychoacoustic effects. It might be good to try replacing the other 4558 too if pinouts are identical (all pins) ? I've always been led to believe that the big noise factor in analogue chorus (and other time based effects) is the analogue 'Bucket Brigade Device' (BBD) device(s).

Are the screws going straight into the wood or into threaded inserts ? Either way , multiple insertions / removals may have blunted the grip of the screws so I'd suggest new screws if not tried already.

Toothbrush or similar to brush off the gunk. Could use the pcb cleaner etc. but I tend to avoid that if possible because it tends to be horrible caustic stuff to be around. I'd try Isopropyl Alcohol as it's benign ( except to rubber - of course don't drink it :-) and a good degreaser. I don't suppose you oould get the pcbsinto an Ultrasonic cleaning tank ? But that would be good. In general it's the mechanical bits that may be the problem - pots and switches. Take a look at the Caig DeOxit products - they really work well.

It's still puzzling though. SInce still a problem on battery power my best gues would be that something (rf/emi) is coming in along th the wante signal from the Digitech unit. Could be that the Digitech ouput isn't sufficiently rf filtered and it's causing a problem for the digital circuits in the Nux. Do you have access to any clip on cable ferrites ? If so then try one or more of these on the cable. If you can loop it through a ferrite more than once so much the better. Also a 'worse / longer' cable might actually help due to increase in capacitance reducing rf transmission.

Hi. Good to hear you're enjoying the pedal. Are you using the same power supply and using it just for the MOD core in both scenarios (Working / Not Working ) ?

[quote name='SubsonicSimpleton' timestamp='1398878083' post='2438604'] The best way to identify them is to go to an engineers merchant, they should have the proper thread gauges and measuring tools to correctly identify the machine screws - they may even have suitable replacements in stock. [/quote] +1 Find out the thread size either from a 'Engineers Merchant' or a friendly engineering workshop or might Fender be able to tell you ? If they are prone to rust then at some point you'll likely want or need to replace them with stainless steel (prob A2 grade) or black anodised types.

Will send PM

But you don't have to cut the heatsink. Just need to isolate the regulators from the heatsink with insulating thermal interface sheet stuff and 'tophat insulators' if using screws. It's standard practice - my own electronics designs with MOSFET or IGBT isolate approx 400V like ths. Ask here or PM me if further advice needed.

Assuming the regulator tab is 0V then bolting them all directly to the heatsink will connect the 0Vs together and negate the ground loop breaking aspect of having separate transformers. You don't necessarily need to cut it up though- just use isolating kits / isolating thermal interface sheet to mount the regulators.

Both solutions might give some noise issues. Especially considering that your bass/pedalboard/amp setup is (I assume) using unbalanced signals. Have you considered using LED strip ?

Good points from all. Esp on phantom power. Need to consider that while XLR to jack leads are readily available (mic to jack) they aren't generally optimised for high impedance ( like normal passive pickup ) sources. 'Proper' 'low noise' cable for high impedance pickups has a semiconducting layer between signal and screen to attenuate cable movement noise. With low impedance signals (good quality mics) this isn't considered necessary although cotton or plastic fillers are generally used to maintain (roughly) constant geometry between the conductors. From a practical point of view consider: if you wander too far away from your amp / pedal board a jack connection will probably pull out of one end - not good but not THAT bad considering that an XLR is unlikely to detach ( I recall that that the original Cannon XLR spec' is that it pulls a big truck or something ) and depending on your connection at the other end to the bass you could end up with a lot of amp / Cab / Stack toppling over. On the plus side it may land on the drummer (Joke!) I guess you just get a long enough cable :-)

If it's visible flaking corrosion then you need a new jack socket. Get something good quality - Neutrik / Switchcraft / Rean / Cliff etc. - depending on what fits and it should be good for ages. If more like surface tarnish then I'd suggest cleaning with a Caig DeOxit product to remove oxidisation products and a swab with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to degrease. But given that the Caig DeOxit stuff isn't cheap then if you don't need it for other contacts and are okay with a soldering iron it might work out better to get a new jack socket anyway.

There's a fair number of 'budget concious' rack eqs alongside the Behringers - Samson etc. For used kit RANE stuff is good. But it sounds like you could do what you want with a pedal eq if you wished ???

[quote name='Diablo' timestamp='1397247053' post='2422297'] The Fender setup guide for truss rod is to put a capo on the first fret, then depress the lowest string (E for 4, B for 5) at the last fret and then measure the gap between the string and the 7th fret. Should be 12-14 thou, about 0.35mm, a thick business card, or the like. If the string touches the 7th fret you need have too much backbow and need to slacken the truss rod, if you have a wide gap you tighten the truss rod to being the neck backwards. Before adjusting the rod make sure you drop off the string tension, adjust rod, retune, then check 7th fret gap again. Remove capo then set saddle height at 3/32" (2.5mm) between strings and fret at the 17th fret. If you cannot get this right you need to shim the neck. In this case set saddle heights at mid adjustment and shim as required, so at least you have some saddle adjustment for the future without reshimming again. Set pickup heights to spec (see manual) and then intonation and at least you should have a base setup to then play about with to suit your style. Cheers, Rich [/quote] In the procedure outlined - when you remove the capo and adjust saddle height the nut height (re action at first fret) must be important too it woukd seem ?

technically Copper is a better screen than Aluminium. Why not use the adhesive copper tape (or aluminium ) to screen the cavities anyway - you can always peel it back off fairly easily to get back to original condition although I can't think why that would be an issue really. Or Ki's copper plates sound a good option.

Fair enough. I haven't tried a VT. Have a BDDi and now a BDI21 on the (ebay) way. I'm seldom looking for a sound in 'break up' territory so BDDi at low to moderate gain setting sounds good to me and the midrange characteristic sounds about right to my ears. But I know some point to the ParaDriver to avoid this - does that have similar Drive characteristics and/or a Presence control ? I guess I can check onlne but it juts occurred to me while typing. On a similar note is the VT now available with a balanced DI option ?