rmorris

[quote name='Mykesbass' post='875449' date='Jun 23 2010, 02:28 PM']With Shuker's reputation, and a really nice looking BB 1500 on sale here for £450 (nothing to do with me BTW), how about selling the fretless and buying the fretted - you may even make a few quid![/quote] +1 yeah - seems like a sound idea to me unless the particular guitar is special to you. I've never really got the defret / refret thing. I just think "buy what you want" - fretted or no fretless. Good luck anyway. And £250 does seem a bit OTT. I suggest getting a quote from the Bass Gallery in Camden even if just to compare.

single B string .135 Warwick Red anyone want it ?

This may not be very practical for a live set up - but you can reduce string / finger noise by using 'de-essing' technique - same idea as used to attenuate excessive sibilance on vocals. Either using a dedicated unit or by inserting an equaliser into the sidechain of a compressor and boosting appropriate frequencies so that they are attenuated only when they exceed a threshold.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='561436' date='Aug 5 2009, 08:12 PM']I've tried singing into 57s before and just blow a lot of air into them, although I suppose you can get around that by putting a windshield over them.[/quote] well I'm led to believe that the 57 and 58 are the same capsule with different cover / windshield. I'd say give the SM58 a go - although it'll have a less tight pickup patten. Note that producer John Leckie prefers standard 58 over Beta version - although that's for studio work.

[quote name='tischbein' post='569915' date='Aug 15 2009, 01:53 PM']I wouldn´t even hang a towel on anything MDF... but then again I work with the crap everyday and know that it holds no decent screw... good luck. [/quote] It might be that you're just using wrong type screw. I use 'Screwtite' trilobar type from Screwfix in UK. Also it's recomended to drill out 80 - 90 % of the screw diameter first and avoid area within approx 12mm of an edge and 25mm of a corner .

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='576720' date='Aug 21 2009, 02:47 PM']I saw some aurora stuff at the LIMS a couple of years ago, although they didn't seem to be there for the last one. Not sure how they differ from the SIMS ones, but the looked blummin' good up close. btw - the 'britain's got talent 'link on the aurora site has an amusing youtube video of some poor bloke with a pushy mother-in-law. He plays an LED-equipped ibanez geetar & gets totaly slagged off by Simon Cowell. Perhaps he's intimidated by anyone that can play an instrument .[/quote] I haven't done the LED thing but I went to shop associated with Aurora Project in Orpington to get a replacement scratchplate sorted for an Ibanez Strat copy ( it had 'gone static' ) and the guy definitely seemed to know his stuff and the work on display looked good to me.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='589618' date='Sep 4 2009, 01:11 PM']I recently bought a daisy chain dc power from them, thought prices were fine, but even though I looked on their site I did not come across the PP3 battery adapters. Now obbm has been a great chap and posted me out a couple, for which i am very grateful [/quote] good marks to obbm for that - but in the long run it's really worth teaching yourself ( I mean anyone of course ) how to put stuff like this together yourself. For one thing it means you can get what you want at short notice.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290343727489&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:GB:1123"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:B:WNA:GB:1123[/url] looks good if you are within striking distance of Hitchin.

[quote name='Phantom Power' post='576671' date='Aug 21 2009, 02:03 PM']Stanley Clarke, surely one of the most respected of all bass player, regularly plays a piccolo bass.[/quote] yes - and I believe he usualy has a 'bass' player in the band !

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='559679' date='Aug 3 2009, 09:30 PM']It claimed to allow switching from 8 to 4 ohm impedance. It consisted of a capacitor, switched in and out of series with one woofer of a parallel pair. When in circuit a DCR measurement would be twice that of when it was bypassed, since the capacitor wouldn't pass DC to the second driver. When an actual impedance sweep was done there was no difference, of course. There are only two possibilities for the origin of the circuit. The first is that the A-G engineering staff did not know the difference between DC resistance and AC impedance. The second is that they knew and tried to pull a fast one. Neither explanation is excusable. A-G never came up with a plausible explanation, the switch unceremoniously disappeared from their cabs and literature. They continue to make SPL claims that defy the laws of physics in this universe and at least two more that we know of. [/quote] thanks for the comprehensive background.

I'm obviously late to hear about the 'AccuSwitch Debacle" (sp?) Would anybody be so kind as to post a link or whatever so I can catch up on that. Sounds like marketing hype over technical reality ? (surely not :-)

[quote name='KASH' post='552872' date='Jul 27 2009, 04:53 PM']Hey I've found a Boss MT-2 Metal Zone in my moms house from my old guitar days, first thought - sell it! but now I'm wondering...would it work well with bass? or will it cut the bass freq? Anyone use it? I haven't tried on my rig yet as it's in the studio, just looking for any users who can recommend any settings to try, etc... cheers![/quote] I reckon the thing to do, if you can, is rig it up in parallel (via mixer / blender ) with your straight bass sound so you get the bottom end from the bass and the distortion from the MT-2.

[quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='532984' date='Jul 5 2009, 01:38 PM']I use Overwaters on my 7 string which I tune BEADGBE.[/quote] that's just too many strings ( only half joking :-)

[quote name='iamapirate' post='545924' date='Jul 21 2009, 12:51 AM']I know that at £60-£80 it aint exactly 'budget' but as bad a review the boss ODB-3 gets, I think it's a pretty versatile pedal. I've managed to get some killer sounds out of it from light clipping to full on square-waved goodness. Having said that i am getting a woolly pretty son, so it's not that amazing. But it definitely makes for some intresting sounds when you have it running into another pedal (especially a guitar wah - sounds awesome! Morley guitar wah - £20 - get one!)[/quote] Morley Wah £20 ? where ?

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='543693' date='Jul 18 2009, 12:18 AM']So I'm at a gig and we're about to start the second set when guitarist discovers that he needs a new battery. I am playing only passive basses and my compressor, mixer/preamp, and tuner are all running from a mains power supply. Guess who is the only one carrying spare batteries.[/quote] maybe time to 'discover that you need a new guitarist'

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='542480' date='Jul 16 2009, 06:21 PM']From what I've heard, you can recharge some alkalines, but they self-discharge very quickly, and there's a risk of the battery leaking and wrecking your charger. I'd be interested to know more about your experiences (what type of battery you use, what charger, what kind of success rate you've had, whether you've found any major issues). Thanks. S.P.[/quote] it was a while ago and I was looking at it from an electronics engineering point of view. I can't recall self discharge rate being an issue. However the capacity did decrease with each charge and realistically a maximum of about ten recharges was useable. But remember that the initial capacity / life is longer. I was looking at this before NiMH batteries become generally available so the rechargeable alternative was NiCad which have more problems. The charger was one we built 'on the bench' but important to note that you can't use a normal NiCad / NiMH charger. I don't have the technical details to hand but I guess there'll be plenty on the interweb. Leaking wasn't found to be an issue although it's always a possibility if charge rate / time is faulty or just through bad battery manufacture. Interestingly I recall that in the UK most 'ordinary' batteries are marked along the lines of "Do Not Recharge" etc. but that is not allowed in some countries as it isn't true. The common idea that the batteries will 'explode' shouldn't be an issue as all batteries should incorporate a sort of valve to release pressure if things go wrong. To be clear for rechargeables I use NiMH myself and mention the recharging of alkalines for info' here. On an associated note - please note that there are loads of fake 'Duracells' ( + possibly other brands ) out there. Look at Duracell on the website for more info' - then look at suspiciously bargain Duracell marked batteries in dodgy packaging and a bit rough round the edges ( or especially the bottom ).

[quote name='fusionbassist1' post='531950' date='Jul 3 2009, 07:51 PM']Evenin' all, (Edit-I realise now that in my tired state i'm certainly more after a valve DI box than a pre amp as I'm relaly not after any kind of EQ features, I'm loving the look and no frills of the A-Designs REDDI Box but it seems fairly unique from what i can find in terms of 'relative products'....any ideas?) It's been a while since my last post but I'm soon going to be doing a live studio session with some hilariously good musicians for which I would like to be on my game which, along with being vastly impressed by being shown the best dry bass sound I've ever gotten or could imagine getting out of my latest bass by having it going DI through a valve pre then out into the desk has lead me to posting this topic. I'm looking to buy a nice, small, no frills, no EQ, valve DI/preamp that's easily patched into a mixer for numerous applications at around the £300 mark second hand. Reason for this is the ease of using a DI type setup in the studio, not having to piss off other musicians during live studio sessions/preformances i.e. pit work at musicals and also the way i was impressed yesterday by the punchy but un-altered tone i was able to get in a studio going from my passive jazz bass (Wizard 84s) straight into the producer's rack-mounted TL Audio 5001 preamp. Obviously buying a 4input, rackmounted, 3U unit is not convinient so I'd like a nice warm equivalent that doesn't change the sound but adds character to it. I understand that seeing as what i'm talking about is a type of piece equipemtn where the character added to the sound will be fairly different from machine to machine but if someone could please point me in the general right directiont that owuld be fantastic. In terms of basses/sounds I'd like to get out of this piece of equipment I'd like to be able to geeeeet..... A nice gritty, both p'ups flat out, tone rolled to dirt sound from my jazz for a kind of pbass tone for electric country/folk stuff with a live vibe A nice warm sound with bot pups flat out but tone rolled off for similar but more rocky stuff that DOESNT' boost any ugly muddy frequencies, something i've found prominent in low-end or non-bass designed valve equipment. Nice bridge-heavy, barky sound. (I'm hoping to get my hands on a pbass soon and if i do invest in one of these valve DIs i'd like to hope that it'd compliment a pbass with either a sub-heavy, fat sound or gritty, driving sound pretty damn well for the money). I can't see how seeing as I'm focusing my efforts towards the gigging/session/studio side of things that having a valve DI i'm happy with would be a waste of money or bad thing to have ready to be used. I haven't put this in teh 'items wanted' section as I think it would be great for anyone who has had good or bad experiences with equipment for this application to share good uses they found with them or warnings of what really not to buy as a general guide for people looking to invest. Dissclaimer: I searched for valve DI topics and searched generally in this section for preamp information but didn't find anything specific to this cause at all. Products suggested/found on t'web: UNIVERSAL AUDIO Solo 110 Groove Tubes The Brick A-Designs Reddi DI Thanx guys, Ben.[/quote] Sorry to be pedantic but "[i]a nice warm equivalent that doesn't change the sound but adds character to it[/i]." is a contradiction in terms. If you add 'character ' then you are, by definition, altering the sound. From what I understand you to want I'd recommend looking at Alembic kit or maybe Avalon U5 DI ( above your budget I think if new but worth a listen anyway ). From what I remember though the TLA kit is competitively priced so maybe something else in their product range would do the job ?

[quote name='JPAC' post='532261' date='Jul 4 2009, 09:20 AM']I bought the "Uniross 9v Charger + 1 x PP3 / 9v Multi Usage Long Life Battery" from Amazon £8.99. Don't use it - keeps its charge / use it - 1000 recharge cycles.[/quote] Is that one of the newish NiMH batteries which doesn't have a high self discharge rate as 'ordinary' ones do ? btw if you feel the need to use Alkaline batteries don't neglect tthe fact that they can be recharged with suitable chargers regardless of what the manufacturer might state.

[quote name='odub' post='531904' date='Jul 3 2009, 06:35 PM']Hi guys, Right I'm "in the studio" next week, and am debating putting new strings on my bass. I use flatwounds, I play erm indie folk I guess and what a nice smooth warm sound, so im thinking i stick. I've had these on now for about 7 months.[/quote] so how did it go ? did you put new strings on ?

[quote name='lonestar' post='536381' date='Jul 9 2009, 12:50 PM']He made this point after setting up a problematic Strat with a fairly high but perfectly playable action which ultimately suited the type of material that I was playing in a blues band at the time. It was just right for this guitar and the style of bendy stuff that I was playing once I got used to it.[/quote] right. I get it. But that seems to me like the setup was right for what / how you were playing anyway as you say. I'm thinking that you probably do need a higher action for the bendy stuff - taking into account neck radius etc. Along similar lines I read that Clapton preferred a highish nut.