rmorris

[quote name='BOD2' post='335884' date='Nov 24 2008, 10:16 PM']Ah... damn those electrical pixies !! Something also worth trying if possible is to move any small power supplies around to ses if that reduces the noise. This isn't easy if they are plug-in wall wart types, but I have found from personal experience that some power supplies will induce noise in adjacent cables when they come in close proximity to them. Moving the power supply (or the cable if you can identify it) reduces the noise. If you can keep your cables aways from these power supplies as much as possible then that might help but on a small stage it's not always possible. Could it be that when you reconnected everything you had moved the power supply or the cables around it ?[/quote] yeah - power supplies / transformers radiate lowish frequency 'noise' which cable screening can do little about. Unbalanced and/or high impedance cables are most susceptible to it but it falls off steeply ( square law ? - any physicists want to comment on H-field characteristics ? ) with distance so psu / cable placement and orientation can have a major effect. btw I think the batteries are 'PP3'

[quote name='kdphysio' post='337859' date='Nov 26 2008, 11:08 PM']send your current one to www.auroraproject.co.uk, & let them make a bespoke copy for you....100% exact copy/fit.......tis what i did! [/quote] +1 and the shop is in Orpington so not too far to go in person if you want although you'll need to wait to get it posted back to you. good friendly service. nice shop. did me a copy of a scratchplate for an ibanez 'strat' type guitar - about £20 I think for basic '3 layer' scratchplate.

[quote name='escholl' post='335965' date='Nov 25 2008, 12:28 AM']My housemate has the third one, the one going for 33 pounds, and I've been really impressed by it -- I know someone else who has one as well, and loves his. They're pretty tough, and all metal on the outside, and they sound great. Never figured out why they were so cheap, guess they're just simple....probably just due to their not using high voltage. Really though, you can't really go wrong for the price, if it was me, I'd probably go for the v3 model....or the cheap one.[/quote] I've got one of the chapest 'basic' models too. I think they're even cheaper from Thommann - depending on postage costs. [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/art_tube_mp.htm?sid=db1b4cd05b303026ff8ff837fdb4b96e"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/art_tube_mp.htm?s...f8ff837fdb4b96e[/url] I've mainly used it on vocal mic rather than bass, where I tend to favour my Sansamp BDDI, but it sounded pretty good on bass and also in series with Sansamp. A lot of people seem to reckon on changing the stock (Chinese ?) tube 12AX7 or 12 AT7 type I think for something a bit more refined. Google it and see. But I haven't got round to it. It is indeed something of a bargain and will also do well for a bit of 'character' on vocals if you sing or are into the recording side of things. One thing to note is that the jack input impedance is 840K ( or 1M0 on some versions I think ? ) so some may feel it's not ideal for very 'hot' pickupos which have a higher than normal impedance. But personally I don't think an ultra high input impedance is critical with bass.

[quote name='BigAlonBass' post='303696' date='Oct 10 2008, 10:04 AM']Sorry, me old mucker. I seem to have hi-jacked Waynes thread here. I'm happy with my set-up, and I got everything working the way I wanted by the "try it, and if it doesn't go BANG! it works" method. I was just telling Wayne that he wasn't the only one to suffer from a type of "word blindness" when someone is describing an easy (to them) way of sorting something out. It seems that Wayne and I have the same type of problem-show me a picture, or show me how to do it-sorted. Use words of which I have no conception of their meaning-panic! I don't actually think we are thick, it's just that if you have no idea what something is, there's no way you can envisage utilising it, therefore a "middle ground" has to be found. I wasn't getting at you personally, or anyone else on this site, as I've found us all to be an extremely helpful bunch, but just as an example from an earlier post-[i]In that case you would need to use a 'stereo' or more accurately TRS jack at the sending end and connect the tip to the ring to link the signal through the socket. Same as you would do to use a mixer insert as a Direct Output (eg for sending to a PC/Recording Device) and still have the signal go through the channel. Easy enough to wire up.[/i] What the heck does that all mean? To someone who uses electrickery a lot, it probably IS easy to wire up, but to me??? Silly things (to you) like the difference between parallel and series wiring remain a mystery to a numpty like me. The diagrams look pretty, but when I look at speaker configurations in the back of a cabinet, I seriously cant tell the diffference-it's all spaghetti. RTFM!!! doesn't help much either. When I first got my 3630, it rambled on about "sidechains" and "stereo recording" and "signal differentials" and "twin channel outputs into two amplifiers" and the like. About as helpful as a chocolate fireguard to someone who had no intention of utilising any of these, so I plugged it in on one channel and turned the knobs until it got the sound I wanted. Not very scientific, I know, but it worked. I didn't want a tuner in the "chain of command" so I didn't bother plugging it in, which makes me of no use to Wayne whatsoever. Sorry for the rambling post, but please keep trying to find "the middle ground" where everyone can benefit from the knowledge that is so obviously present in this sites members. [/quote] Sorry - I forgot to come back to this thread and confess that the 'techno-rambling' above was my doing. I must admit that when I read it back after posting it it sounded a bit too complex for what is a simple wiring setup to tap a signal off with a 'Y' connection. It's worth getting familiar with insert point switching though if you do anything with audio wiring. But the problem is that things which are easily drawn or sketched in terms of a schematic can end up sounding complex when described in words. But it seems sort of inevitable in a text based forum unless using links to the web or - at a push - those 'diagrams' made up of punctuation marks and letters etc.

[quote name='tayste_2000' post='276838' date='Sep 4 2008, 10:59 AM']Amp DI wouldn't be my first choice for use in a studio[/quote] so why not ? - if all you want is the signal from the amp ( however that gets to the DI output - pre / post eq etc ) on an impedance balanced XLR or TRS jack ? If you're looking for speaker emulation etc or a 'transformer' sound then that's a different matter and a transformer may result in better noise rejection but I don't think that's the issue here. Definitely worth trying to get some response from Hartke on the problem - can't do any harm. A thought - it might be a stubborn 'dirty connector' problem. I'd try giving it a good swab with a Caig DeOxit cleaner - and if it still doesn't work then not much money wasted as you'll still have the rest of the cleaner which is great stuff for repair and maintenance. ( no - I don't work for Caig or anything to do with them :-) Also, I know you've buzzed it out, but it's still worth reflowing any solder joints you can get to just in case.

[quote name='BOD2' post='329490' date='Nov 14 2008, 11:47 PM']If the interference isn't mains-borne then there's no mains conditioner that would help. A ground loop can still occur if everything is plugged into a single socket - it's possible to get ground loops on signal cables. A ground loop is just effectively a loop of wire that acts as an antenna a picks up noise in the environment. It's probably more likely that there was something "noisy" in the room that was generating airborne interference and being picked up by everything else. It could be something in your equipment or it could be something at the gig - dimmer switches are a favourite suspect. There's no easy answer to this, although if it never happens again then it does point clearly to the venue.[/quote] +1 The term "Ground Loop" is often used as a catch-all for different electrical wiring issues which have similar end results. With unbalanced connections any system beyond the most simple setup is likely to have a 'ground loop' of some description as the 'Ground / 0V / Screen' connections are performing more than one function ie they are both a signal connection and a screen. It may or may not have a significant effect depending on the electrical environment in terms of interference / earthing. If it's a constant low frequency hum then almost certainly a ground loop issue assuming all connections are sound. Is the hum still there if basses/guitars are unplugged ? - to take noise being picked up by the pickups out of the equation. yeah - dimmer switches are bad news and the interference noise changes with the setting ! 'energy saving' ccfl bulbs and fluorescent strip lights can be a problem also. If you have chance to diagnosis it again the usual approach would be to plug one thing in at a time until a problem appears and work out what is happening then. It's useful to have some isolating transformers or di boxes to break suspected ground loops.

[quote name='Telebass' post='330246' date='Nov 16 2008, 07:52 PM']EEEK! A TelEB3! Wrong. In so many ways...[/quote] yeah - kow what you mean -it does look sort of 'funky' though. But I'm not sure about the straight edge on the scratchplate and how it blends ( or doesn't ) with the control panel cover ?

[quote name='Clive Thorne' post='327367' date='Nov 12 2008, 10:16 AM']I don't want to get into a protracted discussion over this, but I just wanted to make it clear that I don't own or use any pedals, and don't own or use anything made by Behringer.[/quote] yes - that's all clear. [quote name='Clive Thorne' post='327367' date='Nov 12 2008, 10:16 AM']I'm not sticking up for Behringer specifically, or for manufacturers in general, but for the principle that if you don't use equipment according to the instructions (eg connecting the wrong power supply) then it might get damaged or destroyed. While manufacturers could improve their designs to make things more tolerant it is ultimately up to the user to take responsibilty and ensure that it is used correctly. Perhaps they should print a warning on each pedal saying "Warning: Conecting the wrong power supply might destroy this unit", but this is rather remeniscent of the ridiculous "warning: contents may be hot" on the coffee cups.[/quote] I agree that a user should be expected not to treat a product recklessly or unreasonably. But alongside that I think it's fairly well accepted in design and manufacturing that reasonable steps should be taken to avoid damage due to easily foreseeable inadvertent mistakes in use. Regards

[quote name='Silent Fly' post='327581' date='Nov 12 2008, 01:43 PM']I think I get your point. On the subject, you may find these pages interesting. [url="http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/mosswitch/mosswitch.htm"]http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/moss...h/mosswitch.htm[/url] [url="http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/cheapgoodprot.htm"]http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/cheapgoodprot.htm[/url] [url="http://electronicdesign.com/Articles/Index.cfm?AD=1&ArticleID=9945"]http://electronicdesign.com/Articles/Index...;ArticleID=9945[/url][/quote] Thanks. As it happens I've seen the two geofex articles before. I hadn't seen the third article although I've used fets in a similar manner for a different application. I prefer the that way of doing things for its relative simplicity and lower parts count compared to the mosfet / bipolar approaches. Cheers

[quote name='Silent Fly' post='323311' date='Nov 6 2008, 11:41 AM'][size=1][i](I would like to reiterate that I have no personal interests in Behringer. If anything they are my competitors.)[/i][/size] Regarding what you say, I think we may have to agree to disagree. Polarity protection and overvoltage protection is an expected part of any pedal design. I think we all agree.[/quote] Yes - but I think I'd go further and argue that reverse polarity protection should be regarded as necessary for an effects pedal to be regarded as fit for purpose. Also overvoltage protection to a reasonable degree. A pedal running on a typical unregulated supply is likely running well above 9V anyway. I know Behringer specify use of their regulated 9V supply but let's look at what will happen in reality. There don't seem to be Behringer pedals popping all over the place so I'll assume they are okay with typical unreg' psus. And there is little electronics which is okay with 9V and not , say, 12V. ICs etc may need 5V or 3.3V etc. so this needs regulation in the pedal anyway. A higher input voltage may result in more heat dissipation but even if this is a problem it's unlikely to result in instant destruction. Looking under the desk right now I can see supplies of nominal 9Vac . 9V DC unregulated, 12V - all on similar DC jacks which I could probably plug in interchangeably even though they should be segregated with regard to size / voltage. I really don't want to find myself with a broken pedal due to a simple mistake and I don't want to check with a multimeter everytime I plug in power. [quote name='Silent Fly' post='323311' date='Nov 6 2008, 11:41 AM']I am not sure about the definition of "rubbish design" though. Without going in the semantic of the English language, personally, the level of design sophistication I expect depends on the amount of money I spend.[/quote] Shouldn't that be 'semantics' rather than 'semantic' ? ie the noun rather than the verb ? [quote name='Silent Fly' post='323311' date='Nov 6 2008, 11:41 AM']If I pay a relative high sum of money for a pedal, I expect it performs above the minimum specifications. How above it depends on the company that produces it and its interest in its reputation. If I pay the very minimum that I can find, I am happy to compromise on the design and spend a little bit of extra-time checking the connections before powering on the pedalboard.[/quote] fair enough - but my core point is that this needn't be sophisticated design or expensive to implement. [quote name='Silent Fly' post='323311' date='Nov 6 2008, 11:41 AM'](Fortunately) Nobody forces us to buy Behringer. We all know that their pedals are not as good as the originals. They don’t sound as good the originals and, yes, they fry if the power supply is not correct. But they are dirty cheap…[/quote] Well I don't really have a particularly poor view of Behringer kit as products. I think someone mentioned EHX also having reverse polarity issues and I'd criticise that also although that situation may be down to historic reasons. I have a Composer compressor from the days before they went mega-cheap and I'm not complaining that it's not the SSL (or insert your fav dynamics box here ) compressor and also one of their 2 channel 'humbuster' passive transformer boxes. Of course I'm not complaining that the transformers aren't as good as Lundahl / Sowter or whoever but it functions as I need it to when used. I also have one of their 'Hellbabe' optical wahs - thinking about it there are issues there but not really relevant to the discussion here. There are ethical / legal / copyright issues with regard to the, shall we say, 'inspiration' behind some of their products which leaves a bit of a bad taste but again not strictly what we are talking about here. What is interesting is that I read some 'product teardown type' reviews of some Behringer kit a while ago. This was some rack kit rather than fx pedals - and using some well spec'd devices for handling digital audio. Anyway - it was thought that the analogue stages were less than stellar. Technical investigation showed noticeable noise on the power rails at the op amp pins and an absence of decoupling / bypass capacitors. Caps were fitted and a significant improvement noticed. Now I didn't hear it myself and I'm always somewhat sceptical about third party reports like this. But if we accept the observations it does point to problem(s) in the design / implementation / manufacturing process rather than deliberate cost cutting. Cheers

[quote name='Clive Thorne' post='326154' date='Nov 10 2008, 06:43 PM']It's designed to a price and performance that is acceptable at that price. If you want Jaguar performance don't buy a mini![/quote] Ok - but we are talking about a total failure - and hence total loss of utility here - not merely a reduction in functional performance. [quote name='Clive Thorne' post='326154' date='Nov 10 2008, 06:43 PM']A fact that you and most users are aware of and thus should proceed with due care and attention[/quote] I'm sure I would be saying that if I were an advocate for a company who's product had been destroyed but shouldn't we be on the side of the musician - experienced or inexperienced - here ? A £15 pedal destroyed is still a complete loss ( and probably a waste of material resources ) [quote name='Clive Thorne' post='326154' date='Nov 10 2008, 06:43 PM']I'd agree with that in principal to some extent, but a diode in series will immediatley drop the available voltage for the box to do its work. and putting in some sort of crowbar device would also need a fuse etc, and so add costs.[/quote] Yes - but at around 0.6V for a standard diode or 0.3V for a Schottky diode I think it's not really an issue . At least in line with external DC which if unregulated likely supplies a few volts or more over the nominal 9V. Personally - for the 0.6 / 0.3 V loss I'd put it in line with the PP3 also for those ‘fingers and thumbs’ moments when changing a PP3 in a rush. The cost really is minimal even when it's multiplied up to retail. I don't think it's necessarily a cost issue - more a design implementation issue in some cases at least. [quote name='Clive Thorne' post='326154' date='Nov 10 2008, 06:43 PM']Under what circumstances would you take it into your head to pour 12Vdc, of either polarity, into your pedal which clearly states 9Vdc? Picking up the wrong plug on stage and just plugging it is akin to driving your lambo into the petrol station, picking a pump at random, and filling up.[/quote] Sorry but No. If the petrol pumps were all the same colour and there was very poor illumination at the filling station then maybe. But that's not the case. And in fact misfuelling of cars is a problem and it's not generally possible to fill a diesel model with petrol unless you're really determined to as the nozzles / fuel tank entry guages are deliberately mismatched so that the diesel nozzle won't fit in. You can misfuel the other way - it's probably too late to change that now. The problem was originally seen as being one of petrol into diesel as diesel cars were relatively rare but that has changed to some degree. However it's worth noteing that there was a move to standardise on the pump colour coding after inconsistencies led to confusion. I do realise that different voltage ranges are nominally assigned to different plug widths / lengths of DC power jacks but the differences are too small to be reliable in the likely environment of use. The point is to look at things from the user's point of view rather than the designer / manufacturer. Alongside that vehicle electrical / electronic systems generally have to meet quite tough standards with regard to electrical faults which they may experience including reverse polarity / double voltage (due to two batteries in series ) and more. [quote name='Clive Thorne' post='326154' date='Nov 10 2008, 06:43 PM']I only used 320Vac into a telly as it is 230Vac + 30%, ie the same % overvoltage as plugging 12Vdc into a device designed for 9Vdc.[/quote] [quote name='Clive Thorne' post='326154' date='Nov 10 2008, 06:43 PM']The +10% on the 230V spec is generally to accomodate the UKs continuing use of 240 volts, + some tolerance on that. You're right about being able to absorb some surges, but I dont think being connected to 30% overvoltage for what must have been quite a few seconds counts as a surge.[/quote] Yes - I take the point but while it's the same in percentage / ratiometric terms the potential absolute difference in energy is huge and it's just not a realistic scenario. [quote name='Clive Thorne' post='326154' date='Nov 10 2008, 06:43 PM']Having said all the above, it does seem a shame that pedal manufacturers don't standardise on a 9vdc supply and the same polarity on the same type of connector.[/quote] Yes - although I wouldn't want to rule out higher voltages which would allow for 'proper' +4dBu levels . And it's very difficult to standardise retrospectively on anything. You could think everything was fine then realise that the typical 'polarity' option connection in the dc lead had been switched for some reason. All the best.

[quote name='Finbar' post='322584' date='Nov 5 2008, 12:23 PM']I find that they are excellent strings from my experience, but the high F on my 7 string ALWAYS snaps before reaching tension :/ I have a Roto F on at the moment because I know it doesn't snap... Overwater are next on my list to try for 7 string sets. But yes, excellent service at any rate [/quote] 7 strings ! What are you thinking - that's just too many strings - it's a bass you know :-)

I got this a while ago via my local freecycle with a view to repairing it but I just don't have the time to spend atm and need to clear out surplus stuff. It either makes zero sound or goes a bit mad with humming / buzzing. Anyway if you want it - collect from Brighton ( or near Redhill weekdays ) asap ' cos I'll be scrapping it for spare bits otherwise. I think you can find pics on the web. Cosmetically it's in good condition apart from some splatters of white paint though these are mostly or all on the rear panel side and not normally visible - should probably scrape off anyway.

[quote name='obbm' post='322799' date='Nov 5 2008, 06:01 PM']Thanks for your comments. I've ordered one and I'll let you now how I get on with it.[/quote] I just bought an Emerson EGT-1 last Saturday. £20. Tried 3 different ones in the shop and this tracked bottom E well ( one of the others didn't ) and looked more discreet ( it's black ) than the other. Works well on all the basses I've tried it with plus electro-acoustic guitar and electric guitar. On/Clip/Mic switch not the most positive action - can still be off when it looks like it should be on - but no problem once switched on. I'm happy with it - it's really convenient having it on the headstock where it's easy to read - although I guess it'll be difficult to use with my Hohner B2A :-)

[quote name='Silent Fly' post='319272' date='Oct 31 2008, 07:37 PM']I am not a big fan of Behringer and I don't have any commercial relationship with them apart from being a customer. I am slightly surprised by the comments of this thread. As we all know, Behringer produces pedals that are inexpensive. They cost far less than the originals and usually they don’t sound too bad (especially considering the price). A Behringer pedal I have comes with instructions that contain the following specifications: [i]Power supply: 9V 100mA regulated. Behringer PSU-SB Power connector: 2mm DC jack, negative center Battery: 9V type 6LR61[/i] These are the conditions under which the pedal has been design and should be used. Nobody stops me to use other types of power supply but if I do it, I do it at my own risk. I agree that some protection on the power supply should be part of the design of a pedal (I include it in all the pedals I design and produce) but equally I don’t see it as fundamental requirement of an as-cheap-as-it-gets pedal. If I connect a 300W cabinet to a 400W amp and after I played a full volume for one hour one of the cone breaks I don’t complain about the poorly designed cabinet. I would prefer not to try but I am pretty confident that if I connect my Avalon U5 to a 320V supply instead of the recommended 240V I will damage it. I think that nobody has any doubt that Avalon devices are among the best audio devices on the market. Last but not least, if any of you has a [url="http://www.lamborghini.co.uk/?section=models&sub_section=5&model=murcielago_lp640"]Lamborghini Murciélago LP640[/url] we can try to use kerosene as fuel and see if the engine is happy after a few miles. Are Lamborghini poorly designed?[/quote] It's still rubbish design if 9V polarity reversal causes permanent damage. It's fairly well accepted that the environment in which a product ( any product ) is likely to be used is relevant with regard to malfunction / damage etc. And it's obvious that the inadvertent use of a different supply or polarity reversal is a likely event given the same / similar and unidentified connectors commonly used, dark stages etc... Since 9V is arguably the most common nominal dc voltage then it seems wholly reasonable to expect protection against polarity reversal of a 9V supply or use of an unregulated supply here. I'm not necessarily expecting it to survive, for example, being fed with 230V ( nominal ) ac mains voltage - it's not a reasonable scenario. And given that the protection can be simple and low cost ( very very low cost ) then I can't see an excuse even for low cost product. I have to say that I don't think the analogies given are particularly valid - under what circumstances would you take it into your head to pour kerosene into your Lamborghini ? And where is this source of 320Vac ? It's worth noteing that a product running from European ac mains should be able to able to run at significantly above and under the nominal voltage as there is an allowed tolerance on the mains voltage supplied ( +10% / -6% around 230 Vac ? - but I might be incorrect on the actual figures ). Plus should be able to survive various surge transient conditions as defined in emc standards ( there is a sort of opt out for manufacturers but I'll stop now before it gets very nuanced and legalistic :-)

[quote name='Thunderhead' post='308015' date='Oct 16 2008, 05:09 PM']I would get three pedals: A tuner A compressor/limiter An EQ Boss make industry-standard, high quality versions of all these (the compressor is called the Bass Limiter-Enhancer, and you want the dedicated Bass EQ; the tuner is the standard TU-2). If you're not wanting anything more radical than a simple clean bass sound you won't need more than that for any situation. You don't really need a DI box if you use modern-type pedals like Boss since they all have built-in buffering and will happily drive any amp, desk or length of cable (or DI box, on big stages where the soundman will probably want you to use his one anyway). I think that high-quality individual pedals do sound better than cheap multi-FX units too by the way.[/quote] A tuner isn't really a 'pedal' though is it ? And I'd recommend branching off to a tuner from another pedal or the amp ( assuming it's a passive pickup bass else if it's active pickups you could branh off that too ) rather than going 'through' it. If you want to give the sound desk an 'amp' sound without mic'ing the cab then are you happy with the DI / pre-amp output of your amp for that ? If so that's problem solved I think. Maybe needing a simple DI box to minimise buzz / humm caused by 'ground loops'. The sound guy should be carrying these as a matter of course. If you want to send a more coloured sound to the FOH desk - as if it's a mic'd cab - then you will need something along the lines of a Sansamp BDDI - like that ( the programmable version looks good in price now compared to the basic unit or look at the 'Para driver ' ) or maybe MXR Bass DI / Hartke Bass Attack pedal - depending on your personal taste . You really just have to try them out to evaluate. The Hartke is a lot cheaper and there's a Behringer 'copy' of the Sansamp BDDI at about £28 ! ( I know people have views both sonically and ethically about the Behringer kit ) Personally I find the Sansamp BDDI helps whether in front of the desk or transistor ( Trace Elliot ) amp. I haven't tried the EBS competition or the more recent Sansamp bass 'character ' effects. And people here seem to rate the DHA kit so maybe worth a listen ? You may be better leaving dynamics (ie compression / limiting ) to the sound desk unless it's a fundamental part of your sound. In which case I'd recommend a rack type unit over pedals although the Trace Elliot dual band can be good depending on the version. That's not available as new anymore - but I would guess the Ashdown dual band compressor nay be simiar / updated ? Personally I use a few things depending on my mood but mainly a Trace SMX dual band pedal or Alesis NanoCompressor ( half rack) . And sometimes at home a Behringer ( German - before radical cost cutting / production in China ) Composer rack Compressor / Limiter. Cheers

[quote name='crez5150' post='297324' date='Oct 2 2008, 10:07 AM']The side chain output is basically a send and return (a Stereo jack which incorporates output/input). The idea being that you can stick an eq unit in the chain. If you use just a standard jack to jack you can send signal from the compressor to your tuner. As you will only be sending signal it will not be coming back into your signal path.... try it![/quote] I'm not familiar with the 3630 comp but I guess unless it has a switch to select sidechain then the switching would be done via the jack contacts - as on a standard mixing desk insert . In that case you would need to use a 'stereo' or more accurately TRS jack at the sending end and connect the tip to the ring to link the signal through the socket. Same as you would do to use a mixer insert as a Direct Output (eg for sending to a PC/Recording Device) and still have the signal go through the channel. Easy enough to wire up.

[quote name='ahpook' post='296969' date='Oct 1 2008, 07:09 PM']you can prolly pick up a 9v ac supply at maplins...i'm no expert on ac psu tho...would it need to be regulated or smoothed a certain way ?[/quote] as it's ac it can't be smoothed. the regulation will be that of the transformer used ( it gets into complicated magnetics ! ) unless it's a fairly complex design. ie the actual voltage will depend on the load. less mA = more volts. What is the current rating needed ?

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='273153' date='Aug 30 2008, 02:26 PM']I know you say it has to be soft, but... The Hiscox shaped hard cases are VERY light and VERY strong, and are smaller than Tribal Planet gig bags...[/quote] it's worth having a look at the 'own brand' Thomann bags [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/gigbags_for_electric_basses.html"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/gigbags_for_electric_basses.html[/url] I use this series for bass and guitars and they are good quality and well padded although the light colour tends to show up dirt. [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/thomann_elite_gigbag_ebass.htm"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/thomann_elite_gigbag_ebass.htm[/url]

[quote name='Clive Thorne' post='277487' date='Sep 5 2008, 12:30 AM']If it's a passive bass and you have a stereo jack then I would personally wire the 'ring' to the earth contact. That way you get a spring contact on the earth rather than relying on the the unsprung contact between the plug sleeve and the outer ring of the socket.[/quote] A mono jack will generally have a sprung contact to the sleeve ( 'earth' ) anyway. ie it'll have two sprung contacts whereas a stereo jack socket will have three sprung contacts. But it would be as well to wire a passive bass as suggested anyway for even better reliability / lower contact resistance on the sleeve contact.

[quote name='BassManKev' post='286321' date='Sep 17 2008, 11:13 PM']how does trying a piece of gear tell you what the market price is likely to be?? i monitor the second hand market alot when it comes to effects, having owned and sold so many myself in the past, iv never nor will i ever claim to be an 'expert on gear i havn't tried'. i just like to think that i have a pretty good idea on good prices in the second hand effects market, and id probably say this sold for a decent price, but by no means was it a bargain. sorry if iv caused offense [/quote] Fair enough but the question raised on this by Duarte was : "Ive been interested in these for a while...how good are they? " rather than explicitly the cost.

[quote name='doctor_of_the_bass' post='283490' date='Sep 14 2008, 02:20 AM']It works but cuts out now and again - got pretty drowned that nite![/quote] does it sound okay when it's not cutting out ? If so, it might just need a good clean on the input / output / power jacks. I'd recommend giving it a go with a Caig DeOxit product, making sure you get any switching contacts on the jacks too. If it's the pots as well - more difficult - but might still be recoverable if it comes apart okay ( I've never tried ) ? Apologies if I'm stating the obvious - but I don't like to see things go to waste.

[quote name='BassManKev' post='283833' date='Sep 14 2008, 07:07 PM']bit of a 'poor mans' deep impact is the impression i get from various reviews and sound bytes, more practical but way larger although never tried one myself. id probably say £150 is its max value, tbh im quite suprised it went for that much in the current climate, last couple iv seen have gone for around £120 iirc EDIT last one on ebay was in the US for £89...[/quote] they seem to come somewhere between Deep Impact and the Boss synth pedal ( SYB?) in terms of reputation. Sounds like it does the job to me but I've not tried the other two mentioned. Anyone want to comment from experience ? One went on ebay for over £200 not long ago but yeah - they more often seem to go for around £120 - £150. But it's difficult to be too certain over 'average value' as they aren't too common. I guess an auction is an auction and something is worth whatever it is that someone will go to for it.