rmorris

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='226622' date='Jun 25 2008, 12:35 PM']i know these leads are going to come apart on stage or crackle after a year of gigging.[/quote] hopefully you meant 'aren't going to..." :-)

[quote name='BigRedX' post='226296' date='Jun 24 2008, 10:46 PM']+1 Peterson if you can afford it Korg otherwise.[/quote] +1 and I also have an inexpesive SEIKO tuer which works fine though I prefer the LED display of my KORG vs LCD on Seiko.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='226296' date='Jun 24 2008, 10:46 PM']+1 Peterson if you can afford it Korg otherwise.[/quote] +1 and I also have an inexpesive SEIKO tuer which works fine though I prefer the LED display of my KORG vs LCD on Seiko.

[quote name='Silent Fly' post='225840' date='Jun 24 2008, 01:12 PM']Thanks Cheddatom. Probably I wasn't very clear. Regarding the voltage divider, I would also use a Zener just to keep the voltage a little bit more stable but a 2 resistors voltage divider would probably work fine.[/quote] The voltage divider would need a bit of maths ( well arithmetic anyway ) to take into account the load and the power dissipation in the resistors. The voltage will alter depending on the pedal as it will be dependant on the current drawn by the pedal. The Zener seems a better solution - though still needing a bit of arithmetic the voltage would vary less with load. Personally I'd opt to implement a 'proper' voltage regulator using something like an LM317 or LM7808 regulator. Or try the simple daisy chain first - much more simple ( any unused connectors on the chain can just be left not connected )

[quote name='cheddatom' post='224729' date='Jun 23 2008, 09:22 AM']I do it on the computer for recordings, yes, but I don't really think it would be practical to use so many pedals/devices on my board for just one function. I certainly couldn't fit a mixer with EQ onto my board![/quote] yeah - I see you point I was really just thinkig more about the sound. I'd have thought chorusing the lows would impair pitch definition but it sounds interesting - I'll give it a go. Cheers.

try again:[attachment=9923:p10160ke599_1_.jpg]

[quote name='clauster' post='194495' date='May 8 2008, 10:48 AM']+1 to Tina Weymouth Also Clare Kenny (Shakespeares Sister, Aztec Camera, etc, lots of session work).[/quote] nice call on Clare - good stuff on Orange Juice tracks. Overall depends on whether looking for best ' solo / muso / tech ' female bass player or female bass player in the best band. Kim Deal in the Pixies - not overtly technical - but there's no-one male or female who would be ( have been ? ) better in that context. There should be gratuitous pic of Suzi and the Fonz around here somewhere - best female singing acting bassist ?

Probaly too short for practical use as a multicore but an odd end: 32 pair Europa = approx 30 inches collect from Brighton (or near Redhill workdays ) if you want it. Cheers

forgot to say the other option is to use a simple 1:1 audio transformer between the fx. eg the Behringer HD400 like I have which has two channels. But you'd have to be happy that the sound isn't adversely affected ? Other brands are available as they say.

It's a 'ground loop'. Although the supplies are not 'earthed' there is still a loop : the pedals have a 0V (Ground) connection by means of the power connector AND another 0V connection through the cable screens. External fields will generate currents in the loop. 50Hz fields are all around especially from transformers and this will appear in series with the audio signal. The magnitude of the hum depends on the external fields and area of the loop - you could try rearranging your cables to try and minimise - run the dc power and audio cables together - tape / ty-rap them together ? Some pedal manufacturesrs take steps against it by resistance in the external power 'ground' connection or similar means which reduces the current. But the 'proper' way is to have isolated supplies for each unit ( or batteries ). You could try the 'trick' of breaking the screen of a cable at one end and putting a resistor ( around 100ohm is usual ) between the cable screen and the connector. Not too difficult to do if you have decent size rewireable connectors. Sometimes it works okay, sometimes not. Do the common multiple output ' dc bricks ' have a common output ground ? - I don't know as I just use seperate supplies. I know that a USA company produces a transformer to use to give isolated 9V /18V supplies - single primary with multiple isolated secondaries to give the ac voltages necessary. But I enquired a while ago and they didn't have a 230Vac version. Now - does anyone in Brighton know how to fix a Worcester Condensing Combi boiler at this time on a Sunday ? And yes - I've checked the fuses :-)

[quote name='Alpha-Dave' post='224119' date='Jun 22 2008, 01:15 PM']I'd just like to add that it's generally better to avoid Monster Cables as they use oversize jack, so that when you first use them they feel really satisfying to plug into any socket as the fit really snuggley, however after weeks or months of use, the jack (in the bass/amp/effect) will become sightly bent, therefore if you need to use a regular cable again, then it won't make perfect contact in all positions and cause popping. Not an issue if you can get inside something to bend the contact back, but it's worth considering. Personally I used to make all my own cables, but now I buy from OBBM.[/quote] apart from those technical considerations there's also legal / ethical controversy around Monster Cable in that they seem to have developed a habit of setting their lawyers on anyone who might use the word "Monster" for their business / trademark etc and ot necessarily just in audio business . if interested see, for example, [url="http://www.madmartian.com/legal/"]http://www.madmartian.com/legal/[/url] I particualrly like the extract: "[i]Number of times "monster" appears in the script for Young Frankenstein: 185 Number of times Monster Cable Products Inc is referenced in the script for Young Frankenstein: Zero"[/i] I do, of course, offer this information without prejudice.

[quote name='tauzero' post='223922' date='Jun 22 2008, 01:20 AM']The original superconductors did their thing at about -270C (I don't think it would be very easy to get anything down as far as 0K). Highest temperature ones now are around -135C.[/quote] right - still a bit on the parky side then :-) anybody like playing in gloves ? more practically resistive impedance of a cable is swamped by the output impedance of the source. Even an active low impedance output eg from a opamp or FET buffer will usually have something like 100ohm resistor in the output for esd protection etc. It's essentially the capacitance, mechanical integrity and electrical contact with the sockets you need to be concerned about.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='222894' date='Jun 20 2008, 01:28 PM']I want a chorus pedal that's kind of the opposite of the CEB3 in that it would chorus the lows (variable) and not the highs, so that you can use it as a sort of "doubler" to make your bottom end meaty without getting the wishy washy splishy sploshy splashy chorus effect.[/quote] have you tried patching this with a pedal / fx and a mixer using the eq to seperate the lows or using a crossover ?

[quote name='The Burpster' post='216434' date='Jun 10 2008, 09:24 PM']For what they cost you will be hard pushed to beat cables made by our own OBBM. he uses top components by Neutrik and Van Damme. These are music and TV industry standard parts and are probably the best VFM you can get. FYI my guitarist has a Whirlwind lead (cost him £35 odd squids several years ago) He was gutted when I gave him my Neutrick and Klotz lead to use (about £8 all up) as it sounds just as good if not better than the Whirlwind. If you want to spend lots on a lead, thats entirely your own choice. Will it be any better in sound quality and durablity/reliability than one made of good components? I seriously doubt it.[/quote] +1 Neutrik connectors are the standard along with Switchcraft. I think Neutrik / Re-An now have a less expensive second line of connectors I think made in Far East rather than Europe. Have to say they are good vfm although I'd still tend to go with the Euro parts - I have a few of those connectors so don't need to choose atm. It's nice that they have a collet mechanism to grip the cable rather than a bendable bit of metal. Much more reliable in the medium / long term. Once you have decent cable it's the mechanical integrity of the cable which is critical for guitar / bass applications. I'd always opt for a copper screen ( rather than conductive tube / foil with a drain wire ) and if using with high impedance outputs you 'must' use cable with a semiconducting layer between the core and screen to avoid lots of noise when you flex the cable. Braided screens are best electrically but can suffer from flexing so a spiral screen - or better a double lapped "Reussen" shield - is probably better ( and try not to step on it too much ). Personally I have a mixture of Switchcraft / Neutrik / Deltron connectors with mainly Klotz instrument cable ( or Van Damme GAC-2 cable for lo-Z apps ) with a bit a bit of Musiflex and Studiospares 'Europa' multicore thrown into the mix. btw the Neutrik 'Red' jack plugs with the shorting link to avoid 'plops' when unplugging look good too.

[quote name='danfergie123' post='217034' date='Jun 11 2008, 04:59 PM']Is a cable without resistance [i]practically[/] impossible, or [i]literally[/i] impossible?[/quote] What you're talking about is a superconductor. As far as I know it's only known to be possible at absolute zero ( 0K = -273 deg C : very very cold indeed ! ) One of my physics tutors in the 80s was working on superconductors at 'normal' temperatures but as far as I know it's still something of a 'holy grail' - in a rational agnostic sense :-) I stand to be corrected if anyone knows different. In everyday terms pure silver is the beat conductor but tends to tarnish unlike gold. Practically it's not something you need to be concerned about - concentrating efforts on keeping contacts clean and free fom oxidisation is much more critical. Isopropyl alcohol to remove grease etc and look at Caig Deoxit and Kontakt products to remove oxide / corrosion buil up on jack conectors etc.

[quote name='bremen' post='218566' date='Jun 13 2008, 09:20 PM']+1. Also don't worry about having to play at absolute zero to keep the cable's resistance down.[/quote] yeah - I have a feeling that the string tension may be affected at zero Kelvin - and the amp won't work - and the speaker cones will be frozen... The cables will perform exceptionally well though :-) maybe I've spent too much time dealing with liquid nitrogen :-)

[quote name='dood' post='222461' date='Jun 19 2008, 08:25 PM']I would think of the MXR as a multi channel pedal, where the Sansamp to be is more of an amp / cab sim. FWIW, I don't like the drive sounds as much on the Sansamp either.. I run it on the edge of dirt with lots of direct signal mixed in.[/quote] I'd definitely agree the Sansamp BDDI is more of an amp sim kinda thing - I don't think it does a convincing 'distortion' with drive up high. I tend to run it with mild drive - just hear a lively edge to the tone - presence between 9 and 3 o'clock depending on the context and strings. Lots of presence tends to bring up the noise level and I don't like that but the attack is good. I tend to have only a little direct in the blend if any. I find that even though it might sound a little too effected on its own it sits well in a mix with rock / indie bass and drums. Will be interesting how the new Sansamp Bass VT stuff sounds ?

[quote name='BassManKev' post='221362' date='Jun 18 2008, 01:30 PM']that last one sold on here i thinkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk went for £135 few months back edit: £125, close enough [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=5818&hl=g5"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=5818&hl=g5[/url][/quote] yeah - all things considered I think I'll stick it on this site first and maybe the local gumtree. Recent ebay charges changes + compulsory Paypal as means of payment to be offered have dulled the ebay appeal somewhat. Some people reckon ebid is a better alternative if enough people switch allegiance but I heard ebay was bidding to buy it ? Anyway, I was hoping to clear around £130 so I guess I should take this to the sale forum now - will probably be there sometime on weekend when I have taken photo. Will just mention that I am in Brighton in case anyone fancies a no obligation try out. Thanks again for your feedback.

[quote name='Toasted' post='221348' date='Jun 18 2008, 01:13 PM']If you can get a fair price here, it's better than ebay IMO. I sold my last G5 to a fella in the US for $350 + shipping.[/quote] that was a good price depedig on the exchange rate at the time. I guess he really wanted one !

[quote name='Phaedrus' post='220521' date='Jun 17 2008, 12:28 PM']I'm wondering what chorus pedals folk on here like. Do regular chorus pedals sold for guitar work okay with bass? I thought the EBS UniChorus would be worth looking at, but one review I read said it was really noisy, with a lot of hiss. Thanks, Mark[/quote] I have to give a mention to my Roktek Chorus Pedal. Cheap fx I know but it works for me on bass for a bit of a Peter Hook sound on a budget. Tried Boss etc but they sounded more 'washed out' which I didn't get with the Roktek - Depth between half and full / Rate barely above minimum ( unless wanting that 'underwater' sound ) / Tone at Max - with a plectrum... Also good after a Boss OC-2 Octaver to smooth the edges.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='221363' date='Jun 18 2008, 01:31 PM']Obviously. I would never record with just one pedal though, so a DI box for the desk, and a blend pot for the pedal to go through my amps would have been nice. I suppose I could just mix the two outputs with something else.[/quote] Indeed - always good to be able to have blend control rather than needing external mixer etc where you'd rather not have to bother and want to keep the gear level / setup hassle down. Would be good to have all options - pure effect / effect-dry blend / buffered dry signal. But I guess it all comes down to cost / target price. Blend / mix controls are not that easy to engineer - well they sort of are but it takes a fair few components to do it 'properly' - and if you want 'good' components then the cost can become significant when you consider that a raw component cost probably ends up at retail at something like x4 the cost to the manufacturer.

thanks for the feedback on this people. I've had a look at the bank balance and think I'll have to sell it although it can be a lot of fun. Pondering whether to put it up in the sale section here or go straight to ebay / ebid . I guess I'm looking at £s somewhere between a Boss SYB thingy and an AKAI Deep Impact so I'll do some research.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='221297' date='Jun 18 2008, 12:18 PM']Why two outputs instead of a blend pot? It will annoy some and please others I guess.[/quote] a buffered dry output is pretty handy for recording - saves a bit of messing around with more cables / boxes.

[quote name='xgsjx' post='220353' date='Jun 17 2008, 08:23 AM']This is actually not true. What you may have experienced is the pickhand of the G*****st hitting one of the pots on the said instrument, thus causing what may sound like a temporary reduction in noise. I heard this phenomenon last night & had to investigate it. [/quote] yeah - that's probably it :-)

there are different ways to define the power output in Watts so the 'Wattage' is nominal only. For a given amplifier the sound level you actually get depends on the speaker cab(s) efficiency ( SPL / Watt ) and the impedance characteristic - the 4 ohm etc rating is nominal and will vary over frequency and interacts with the amp. And, of course, how clean ( or not ) you want the sound to be. But in general I'd agree that a typical rating of 150 - 300 Watts should be plenty. How loud can the drums be ? :-) And if drums are being amplified a lot then you'll need to go through the PA too - You're not going to be able to balance a good on-stage sound and get a good out front sound with just the amp. And think of your hearing too... btw I heard a rumour that guitarists can turn down the volume on their amps although I'm not sure it's true ;->