rmorris

[quote name='Silent Fly' post='219277' date='Jun 15 2008, 04:26 PM']I think Toasted answered to this [/quote] well sort of. I was just thinking in more detail given that the impedance vector will affect freq. / phase response . And I was wondering if a trimpot or similar to vary the impedance would be of significant benefit.

I understand that you might not want to say but I'm wondering if you've added only resistive impedance or also inductive impedance to more closely model a Hi-Z pickup ?

[quote name='bremen' post='218566' date='Jun 13 2008, 09:20 PM']Also don't worry about having to play at absolute zero to keep the cable's resistance down.[/quote] yeah - it's hard seeing the frets through the liquid nitrogen and the strings might become a little brittle ?

sorry - obviously I haven't got the hang of the 'quoting' mechanism here yet.

heres a nice bit about clipping on the peavey site [url="http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes/concepts/clippingrevisited.cfm"]http://www.peavey.com/support/technotes/co...ngrevisited.cfm[/url] [/quote] nice peavey link. worth saying that not all solid state front ends distort the same way depending on the circuitry eg. op amp ( iintegrated or discrete ) with negative feedback or open loop FET transistor etc.

re: "I think the difference you'll get in tone if you increase it past the clip level is a bit of digital distortion, which to 99.99% of folk sounds crap. " Why digital distortion ? We are talking solid state (opamp and / or transistors ) here aren't we so it would be 'solid state' analogue distortion.

Anyone have opinion on this Synth Bass / Envelope Follower ? I have one and thinking of selling it - but would be good to hear opinions as I haven't tried Akai Deep Impact etc. Cheers.

[quote name='BassManKev' post='136885' date='Feb 8 2008, 11:20 PM']theres on for sale at my local music buy sell place not great cosmetics, wood is pretty worn and dinged in places, but still looks nice, with the thru neck style body, but with a bolt on neck. voume knob missing. its the active 80's one with the precision pickup with the switch for series/parallel, and the active passive switch. it plays really well, great punchy tone, but i didnt get chance to try it in active mode, daft bugger didnt have any 9v batteries to put in it! (it takes two, which suprises me as it only has one active eq knob, boost n cuts bass and treble at the same time, in additon to a passive tone knob) they are askin for £150, which seems to be above the average costs iv found on the net, but the guy doesnt seem to wanna go down much. opinions?? i think a few guys have one on here[/quote] fine basses - I have a modified 1A , a black 1 , and a later fretless ( different pickup / bridge ). but from your description £150 is too much I reckon. I'm guessing from what you wrote that it's pretty much a buy/sell place ie they don't pay a lot of attention to the playability setup etc. ? Otherwise I reckon they'd have sorted the issing knob ? Depends if you're happy to look at that yourself but if it needs a fret dress - quite likely given the vintage depending on your playing style - that's not cheap. Against that it is a retail situation so not likely to be as good a price as a private sale. From the description / problems I'd say £110ish with a (cheap) set of strings thrown in, guessing that it hasn't been restrung in the shop.

Other - Westone Thunder 1A natural wood finish. But now pickups / electronics replaced with EMG P pickup + electronics. Wearing Warwick Reds 45-105 atm. Okay for plectrum stuff but not so good for fingerstyle.

have reds on one bass. okayish but a bit rough sounding / feeling. okay bashing along with band in practice but did't come out well on recording.

this site has audio clips for strings + everything else - pickups / effects... [url="http://basstasters.com/"]http://basstasters.com/[/url]

[quote name='steve-soar' post='214560' date='Jun 7 2008, 07:21 PM']I use DR Hi Beams and Lo Riders, I find the Hi Beams to be very supple and the Lo Riders are good for hittin' hard. They last for ever. A person of your calibre should have no problem following the wiring diagram. DR Hi Beams but get them from the States, Mymusicstuff, I think, ebay shop.[/quote] Sorry - I meant DR rather than D'addario for round core ( vs hex core ). Although for all I know D'addario may do them as well. DR Hi-Beam = Round Core DR Lo-Riders = Hex core which tallies with opinions on these strings above.

[quote name='bubinga5' post='165141' date='Mar 28 2008, 12:57 PM']Hey people, just a quick couple of questions. I am going to replace the Seymor Duncans in my Jazz, for Nordstrand split coils. Can anyone tell me if this an easy thing to do. What wiring is involved? Im quite handy with a soldering iron!! Secondly im experimenting with different strings and im looking for a string that is little easier to bend, lighter, and not so tight on the bass. Does thy look for different gauges???? i guess im looking for a more supple string.. Thanks in advance...[/quote] All other things being equal a string based on a round core rather than a hexagonal core will feel more supple at the same guage. I think D'addario amongst others offer round core and I think that Newtone strings in Derbyshire would be helpful as they offer their strings i both core types. Weblink below. [url="http://www.newtonestrings.com/bass_page.htm"]http://www.newtonestrings.com/bass_page.htm[/url]

I can recommend this place for scratchplates as required - I recently got a guitar scratchplate copied there. [url="http://tmtmusic.co.uk/home.htm"]http://tmtmusic.co.uk/home.htm[/url] [url="http://tmtmusic.co.uk/new_page_1.htm"]http://tmtmusic.co.uk/new_page_1.htm[/url]

I thought this PSW thread on DI bass would be of interest here: [url="http://recforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/mv/msg/22821/0/0/0/"]http://recforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php...sg/22821/0/0/0/[/url]

[quote name='Welshbassist' post='201829' date='May 18 2008, 11:16 PM']Looks like it's designed for style more than substance! I find that low power bass amps are a waste of money, you NEED at least a hundred watts to reproduce the low end! There might be amps that defy this rule, but this is what I've experienced.[/quote] seems like a lot of wood in front of the speaker ?

[quote name='obbm' post='171776' date='Apr 7 2008, 09:25 PM']Yes he has. Studiospares do a very acceptable Stereo Mic cable which I have used for stereo guitar leads. Also I have a drum of stereo cable with two individually screened cable inside a single round jacket. Great for stereo jack cables but no good if you want to come out to separate jacks.[/quote] But if its being used to / from a high impedance source input eg into the 'standard' hi-Z input of a amp / preamp / DI then should really use 'low noise' cable that has a semiconducting layer between the core and the screen. Usually available in single core only I think. Like Klotz Instrument Cable and most other sources have similar I think - Maplin / Farnell etc. Anyway it reduces cable handling noise - the interference type noise you can get from moving a cable - triboelectric effect - by dissipating the charge which builds up ( basic explanation ). High impedances mean much more susceptible to this than line or mic impedances where the use of cotton and other fillers to maintain the position of the cores is considered adequate.

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' post='210255' date='May 31 2008, 09:24 PM']That was my thought. If the 12 volt power supply was wired the opposite to the 9 volt supply, that might draw enough current to fry a track.[/quote] Apparently it was correct polarity. I know what you mean though but no - any realistic polarity protection should work up to 100V or so minmum. It only has to be a simple diode at the minimum complexity. Having said that I had a diode fail in a mixer power supply once and the resultant noise was terrible to behold ( no - it wasn't a Behringer :-)

[quote name='ahpook' post='212162' date='Jun 3 2008, 10:49 PM'][url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=10927&hl=ahpook+sansamp"]thread here[/url][/quote] Ah - OK . I posted to that thread. Did the Sansamp that got blown get fixed ?

Hi all. Eventually getting round to this. rmorris. I'm in Brighton and played around with bass for longer than I care to remember. First inspired by Postcard records stuff - esp Josef K and post punk - gotta give Joy Division / New Order / Peter Hook a mention here. Generally leftish field stuff. Also into recording and design of gear ( used to design electronics / systems for pro-audio ). Various basses in various states of repair and disrepair. But if I look around now I'd grab maybe a Westone Thunder 'ex - 1A' - a 'woody' one - now fitted with a EMG P pickup ; Hoher B2A ; Balck Westoe Thunder 1 or OLP MM2 ( well once I get the action sorted ). Amp wise I'm a little stuck atm as my old TE amp is troubled but I'm mainly recording to PC via Sansamp BDDI. Techniquewise - mix of fingers and plectrum as called for. Bit of (tongue in cheek) slap. Cool Site. Cheers

[quote name='ahpook' post='211635' date='Jun 3 2008, 11:03 AM']i had one till it got fried. to my ears, if you want a speaker/amp emulator then go for the behringer - i'm not sure i'd trust it on stage (being mainly plastic and all), but for home/studio use it's great...and you're not forking out lots of money for it either. imho the mxr di + pi55es on the sansamp from a great height...the sansamp made my bass sound good at home on my own, but the mid-cut just sucked the life out my tone live. the mxr's got a better eq and the distortion's better. ymmv of course[/quote] How did it get fried ? My Sansamp sounded good in front of my Marshall Jubilee 4x10 ( via TE amp set flattish ). The 4x10 is pretty midrange biased so I guess thigs sort of evened out. But I mainly dip aound 800Hz - 1KHz anyway. I guess I should try out the MXR but then again I'm trying to sell more than buy atm !

I used to have a VS Bassamp Head and also a small sealed BASS BABY 15" Speaker Cab. The amp always sounded to me like it didn't have enough oomph. Not the power rateing but more like the power supply voltage sagged and it had trouble supporting real low frequencies ? The VS 'Valvesound' switch was useful at low volume but at higher volume sounded too obviously distoreted to be of much use most of the time. But I loved the green illuminated backing to the controls and the style of the thing with the moulded side pieces / handles and the big knurled srews on the side. Well put together too for access servicing. I think they used '741' opamps - barely adequate for audio so shouldn't expect real hi-fi performance ? EQ could be a bit noisy too. The cab was well put together and sounded pretty good except not really able to get the low frequencies - expected that from the small size and sealed box - ut on the other hand response was smooth. I used the amp with a bigger cabs also so caould tell that the low frequency response wasn't just due to the amp. Eventually traded in the head against a used Trace Elliot 7-band head which I still have though atm it's tempremental again.