rmorris

[quote name='Paul_C' post='133360' date='Feb 4 2008, 12:51 AM']Is the Sansamp still the D.I. unit of choice ? I've sold my rig and fancy gigging in a minimalist way P.[/quote] I use Sansamp BDDI myself and find it a great tool for both direct recording and before my amp / cab. I guess I'm usually looking for that midrange scoop. The Drive / Presence controls give a good range of sounds - although you need to check the noise levels with the presence control especially. For useable 'edge' to the tone the Drive control is very effective whilst not too good for real 'distortion' sounds. Anyone have one of the Behringer 'copies' Bass DI - the one which has the same functions on the controls and goes for about £28 - £30 ?

[quote name='rmorris' post='210803' date='Jun 1 2008, 10:22 PM']re: Its a HUGE hum the goes away when i touch metal parts - does that include touchig the strings / bridge ?[/quote] sorry - I meant 'touching' - problem with my wireless keyboard

[quote name='gafbass02' post='129284' date='Jan 28 2008, 03:02 PM']Its a HUGE hum the goes away when i touch metal parts and only occurs when any one of the several dimmers is on in the house even if its up full! Its not there on any of my fully active basses with active pups and preamp, i.e. Status jazzbastard, and streamer, but the basses with passive pups and a pre amp its really bad on, ie my ray and my KSD, its there but not too bad on my squier VM. Sounds like earth hum but is a pain in the ass! I tried the belkin pure av from work and it did nothing at all, gutted![/quote] re: Its a HUGE hum the goes away when i touch metal parts - does that include touchig the strings / bridge ?

[quote name='bnt' post='206621' date='May 26 2008, 04:10 PM']A plainer English version of what that Rane document says about multiple paths to ground causing ground loops: A common cause of ground loops in a studio setting is having two bits of mains-powered gear, connected together in the audio path, that have different mains earths. "Different" in this context means e.g. one bit plugged in on one side of the room, the other bit getting power from the other side of the room, or more subtle problems like grounding to a rack. You can sometimes get mains current flowing between them along the [i]audio[/i] ground, because the mains earths on the two sides of the room are not equally-well earthed. (Sometimes, Earth... isn't!) In a live situation, you probably won't have that problem, and you would not want to lift ground anyway, for safety reasons. If you were sending a signal to the PA, it would be a balanced signal that wouldn't cause a ground loop.[/quote] yes - the RANE notes are really good. Also look up the technical notes etc. from JENSEN transformers for more about grounding / balancing / earthing etc. re: and you would not want to lift ground anyway, for safety reasons. it shouldn't be a safety issue to use the ground lift switch on the amp. Unlike removing the yellow/green earth wire in the plug , with the switch the chassis metalwork etc remains 'earthed' but the signal 0V ( 'ground' ) is disconnected from earth, or more usually connected to it via a resistor of around 100ohm. The resistor prevents the earth and 0V voltages drifting too far apart and exceeding the common mode range but should be enough to 'break' the earth loop. Ground lift can be a bit hit and miss - in fact I think that on one Rane tech note the question is asked : 'When did a groud lift [u]really [/u]make things better!' or something along those lines. AND NEVER REMOVE THE MAINS EARTH !!!!

[quote name='ahpook' post='115167' date='Jan 7 2008, 02:24 AM']i suppose it's possible the track was a dud...and something finally gave in the end. the supply was rated 12v @500mA[/quote] Assuming you're using a 'standard' unregulated supply then the actual voltage you get out of a '9V' PSU will generallly be a couple of volts or so above the '9V' anyway ( similarly with any voltage rating of course ). The '9V' applies only at the rated current and will rise as the current drawn from the supply is reduced from the maximum rating. I guess you had the polarity correct - but any half decent designed piece of kit should be protected against that. As has been said sounds like a dud pedal just waiting to blow.

[quote name='urb' post='208672' date='May 29 2008, 10:43 AM']I'm pretty sure the Sei has a low impedance output - the weird thing is that my Epifani 502 doesn't really like being used a pre-amp as I can't seem to get the signal level I want from it - anyone got any tips on this? But the tube head of the SWR BBB is just wonderful - and the resulting sound is just smooth and clear. The only draw back with that combo is that it's only got a 10" speaker - so it's only good for small gigs. Mike[/quote] So is the 'problem' with the Sei that the signal level straight from the bass is simply low but sounds fine tonally or does it sound tonally unbalanced to your ears - not enough low frequencies ?

[quote name='urb' post='170751' date='Apr 6 2008, 04:06 PM']Hey guys Just wanted to share little experience I had yesterday with home recording set up - sorry for the less than coherent title of this thread but I thought as I had use some lateral thinking to get the results I did - that it would be good share any 'discoveries' you've made while working stuff out for yourself...! My thing was that I plugged my lovely new bass into my Mackie Onyx base station firewire interface a week ago and found I had an incredibly weak signal from the bass - my old Thumb bass has a Schack 3-band EQ in and puts out a red hot signal - so this was a bit of a shock to me - that my lovely Sei doesn't blast out bass frequencies in quite the same way. So I thought sh*t - I'm gonna have to shell out for a Sansamp or similar thing to boost me bass before going into the audio interface - then I thought of my lovely little Baby Baby Blue amp - and the fact that it's basically a "studio reference" amp (i.e. people in studios like them I guess) and that you can turn off the speaker on it and take a line out from the back of the head. It's also a real tube amp - albeit a single tube - so the signal is both crystal clear and warm as well. Anyway it worked a treat - just be adjusting the Gain I got the level I wanted and with a bit of additional 'am modeling' in Logic I got the tone I wanted and the signal level too. So I save myself some cash and got a great sound as well - thank f***! Markbass are about to launch a new software plug in that will do the same thing and I know Ameg already do one as well - I just really pleasantly surprised by the quality and lack of noise with the SWR - it's such a great little amp - not as powerful as some of the combos out there but still a really quality little amp - I've used mine loads and love it. I know this stuff isn't rocket science but there's so much to recording that you discover by trial and error - mainly error - so I realise I may sound like a total doofus going on about this but if any of you have any other money/time saving tips then please post away - I'm off to finish my tune. Cheers Mike[/quote] looking at basic electronic stuff - the Thumb presumably has an actively powered lowish impedance output which will work well with a typical line level input which I guess is what you'll find on the Mackie Onyx. Does the Sei have a low impedance output or a 'traditional' high impedance passive output ? ( which would 'want' to see a high 470K to MegOhm + impedance on the input ? )

[quote name='bilbo230763' post='173096' date='Apr 9 2008, 01:50 PM']Without being contentious, I can't see how you can play WITHOUT using your pinky. One finger per fret plus two more frets by stretching (obviously not at the bottowm of the neck - see my avatar). If you don't use your pinky (other than due to a disability), you really are cutting your potential by 25% or more (because it is the finger that can stretch the furthest).[/quote] quite. and my hands aren't huge so it's sort of essential for me especially lower than 5th fret even with slimmer necks. Also agree with whoever said about 'how else to play minor 3rds without changing strings' which can give a very different feel depending on your strings , action , technique. And much much more control / fluidity when playing octaves I find - becomes easier than using 1st and 3rd fingers. If you don't use it the persevere with it - it's worth it.

[quote name='ped' post='206260' date='May 25 2008, 11:15 PM']It's just nice to see, that's all.[/quote] that's fair enough - much nicer to post without the shouty capitals - I'll get back to the intro / profile stuff when I can - it's got late now. cheers

[quote name='BigAlonBass' post='206239' date='May 25 2008, 10:23 PM']and ANOTHER one joins to try to sell stuff, without so much as an introduction! [/quote] and your point is....?

[quote name='BigAlonBass' post='206239' date='May 25 2008, 10:23 PM']and ANOTHER one joins to try to sell stuff, without so much as an introduction! [/quote]

I just put an original Line6 BASS POD on yesterday - gotta turn some gear into cash... [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270240239243&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:GB:1123"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:L:LCA:GB:1123[/url] Very Good Condition - all good. btw if you look at my 'Other Items' I have a 4U rack cabinet on also