kodiakblair

Sure is. That looks a damn sight better than my flame top. p.s. While commonly known as Peavey International, it's Sunday title is Peavey Dynabass International Series.

Happy to enlighten you. I own/owned a lot of Peavey basses, for a time there was 68 of them. With that many it's hard to maintain any aura of mystique for a particular model; it either works for you, can be made to work or left ignored as you move on the next one. First T-40 came mostly due to 'internet hype', that doesn't last long. It was through the T-60 Mafia that I discovered the designer of the T-Series, Chip Todd, held similar views as myself regards the tone circuit. Chip would snip the red wire and leave his pickups in humbucker mode, that worked for me 🙂 Another one turned up local for £300, it went humbuckers/tapes; one after that got active EQ 🙂 Forth got a semi permanent mod, I blame my pal Ronnie 😁 He had a varied collection of Peavey basses, due to his position as chief mech engineer for Peavey's US factories. Ronnie had a 5 string T-40 so when a beat to hell T-40, going for peanuts, went up for sale in Glenrothes; I had the makings for mine. Only T-40 I left intact was the one Dave Swift sold through The Gallery. My T-40 interest had waned by then but I got it for a song so why not 👍

For years it was a preamp + usb mixer into PC with a couple of small studio monitors. Recently moved on to wee Hotone nano and a dirt cheap 2 x 8 cab.

Mainly because internet hype doesn't transfer to real life, it's a hugely over-rated bass 😲 My thoughts after owing 5 of them. The tone circuit is poorly implemented, you give up the humbucker tonal range for the single coil 'tap', phase switch is pretty much pointless. Dan Armstrong briefly used the same spin-a-split idea but soon ditched it for 2 pots. The 'Secrets Sounds' video and settings only work for those with eyes for ears 😆 Just because there's a humbucker at the neck, it's sure as hell not a mudbucker. It also looks very dated. The weight is strange. Hartley later said they were only pandering to the then perceived wisdom that heavy = good tone 😁 Course, like most things Hartley says it's not strictly true 😄 The bare bones of ash body T-40s aren't that heavy, just over 5lbs. Nope, the T-40 weight comes from all the daft die cast hardware bolted to it.

You use the 2 grub screws at the the front of the saddle.

Sorry, late night. You could have dropped the split coil in place and used two wires for positioning.

Might want to keep that quiet around women, a fair few of them will have had babies heavier than that 👍 Headin out for couple of hours but I'll PM you regards bridge fitting.

G4M use the same design as Ibanez, ball ends lock below the saddle, could do string through body option if needed.

My pleasure. I've so much stuff here it's nice to put it to use, even if it's just a mock up 🙂

Scratchplate. The G4M body has the typical P-bass router cavities for pickup/controls which will need covering up 🙂 Quick mock up with a G4M P-bass body/neck and Telecaster bass scratchplate. The scratchplate comes from eBay seller 'earlpillanz', Brian cuts these custom (£40) so you can have the WRHB pickup area omitted. Squared pocket area on the place means you can leave the body as is, it'll be under plastic 👍

I've fitted square to rounded and vice versa There's no sound reason why the neck heel should fill the pocket, whip the scratchplate off Fenders and you'll find plenty with gaps round the 3 sides 🙂 It might look unsightly buts thats all 👍 Intonation issues is something folk go on about, the difference is so minimal it's not worth bothering about. Here's my trusty 51 P-bass printout, square heel. This is a rounded heel neck positioned deep over the pocket, corners touching. Overhang of the rounded heel. That 3mm doesn't affect you at all. 1. Your square heel neck stops at the corners. 2. You're fitting the bridge so can move it forward or just move the saddle. Now say you fancy squaring the heel, it's a simple job. Get plenty of masking tape on the body then rest the neck on it like my 2nd photo, heel corners touching pocket corners. Run a straight edge down each side of the neck. When the neck is running centred to the pickups/bridge, draw 2 lines down the masking tape and mark the end of the heel. Remove the neck and clamp 2 straight edges to the body, following the drawn lines and place at stop at the mark where the heel ends. This photo is just for an example, no clamps on. That's your jig to square the corners, less than 2 minutes with the router 👍

I thought all things 'Authentic' were Gibson trade marked.

Mine definitely was 🙂 Think it cost me £189 either last year or the one before that so if they're no £150 it's a serious bargain. Saw no reason to "upgrade" anything. Neck is a dream to play, not too chunky but thankfully not too thin. Had two issues. 1. Slight string hum, that's down to grounding; either poor contact at the mono saddles (no bare metal) or a saddle has been skipped. 2. Tone knob needed raised 1mm so it could clear the finish.

@biro and @Rodders That one I've had in the spares for ages, think it came from somebody on here. Have an Artec piezo element and a couple of rosewood bridge bases if anyone fancies the 'acoustic' look.

Thanks @snorkie635 The other two should be a breeze, the veneer for those is over 400 wide so no joints to contend with 🙂

Wax finish will liven it up somewhat but it needs a bit more. Not too struck on the Cabronita look. Hand cut this pearloid scratchplate a few years back. Did a quick trim to suit the rounded heel, I think it holds promise 🙂

Who are 'They' ? Can they be trusted and what the hang was I doing listening to them ? I've had these 3 roughed out for a while. Plan was left would get 2 51 single coils at 60's spacing. Centre would be an Italia copy, 4 lipsticks running parallel to the strings. Right, possibly a 51 'Ray' slab 🙂 Turned out the Italia idea involved a fair bit of work. No problem converting 2 lipsticks to RWRP, it was the accordian/leatherette wrap scared the pants off me 😆 Far easier to scrap that one for something simple, piezo bridge/wax finish 👍 I had hoped to be on the ball regards progress photos but things ain't too great health-wise so when energy levels allowed I was more focused on the task at hand. The body had a couple of serious knots, spraying finish isn't an option; Wood Veneer Hub came to the rescue. Not my best veneer job, after 3 attempts at a perfect join the towel was chucked in the ring 🤬 Photo is before the overhang was trimmed away, 0.6mm veneer; roll of 180 grit seen below the neck took care of it. Neck and bridge were positioned and fitted this afternoon.

Hellish piece of news. Absolute gem of a man, always willing to help out folk. RIP Nick.

@police squad I fitted dowels to the Mk1 templates sent out to BC members, stopped after discovering nobody was using routers 😅 Dead easy to make, shape your template and position it on the rear of the peghead. Then it's just a dot of glue end of the dowel before dropping through the tuning peg hole.

Alpha RV16AF are mini pots, 16mm diameter. Normally around the £3 mark. Available for solid or spline knobs, with solder lugs, pins or PCB mount. Alpha RV24AF are the full size version. Around £3. NW Guitars sell them, along with plenty others. Products all have the tech drawing so you can pick the correct size. https://northwestguitars.co.uk/collections/potentiometers?sort_by=best-selling Bourns PDB241-GTR https://www.bourns.com/docs/product-datasheets/PDB241-GTR.pdf £4 from Farnell or RS Components but £4 delivery. Banzai Music in Germany carry all the MEC potentiometers; not cheap. https://www.banzaimusic.com/MEC-c-176/ Musikding, also in Germany sell Alpha, Bourns and CTS. Great company, no VAT worries, fast shipping, fantastic prices. https://www.musikding.de/Potentiometer_1

Bought a 51 P-bass neck to check the quality. At £50 delivered it came in £20 more than I'd be for the parts/materials. Neck passed muster with flying colours so ordered up another 4 🙂 Way I normally buy from Ali-Ex is by prices, if the product is say £200 from Europe and there's an Ali-Ex seller asking £70 and another wants £35; buy the one at £70 👍

Me, Finnish rockers 69 Eyes and a squad of lassies all got turfed out of a party in the Cathouse. Felt sorry for the lads, it was their party 😆

There's no law set in stone for fanned frets. Dingwall use the 7th fret as the neutral one, with Ibanez it's 10th; G4M opt for the 8th and on the OP's bass it's the 5th. Right or wrong doesn't come into it, there's only personal preference. Same holds true for the span of the scale length, the radius or how the back of the neck is shaped.

Does it have the Ferrari engine? My suggestion used all of the same parts found on the Dingwall. If going for a custom build you could spec for same body materials and still save £700.

@NikNik Buy the Firebird blueprint from Guitars & Wood, €13. Send it to the Ali-Ex merchant with instructions to follow it to the letter. https://guitarsandwoods.com/guitar-and-bass-plans-firebird-2048190856.html CNC files might also be available. Get as many Firebird photos as you can of things like the transition of neck to body. The more info and details you provide the better chance of success.