Al Krow

How about one of these finishes instead?

That's a good shout in terms of hiring. I was thinking in terms of a "cheap Plan B" we could simply put the kick drum and bass through a mini mixer --> bass amp (my DG M900 has plenty of headroom) --> 2 bass cabs, to deal with Bill's 'more than one' point. I have a BF SC and a Fearless F112 (both 8 ohm) which could be daisy chained. We could potentially then put the DI out from the amp into the PA for additional top end, but I'm not sure that would benefit the low end much and I'd prefer to keep the PA for the vocals.

Yup - got a Behringer DI400P ready to pop under board. But following on from @LukeFRC's comment about the Orchid DI, I'm guessing that a DI is like any other bit of kit i.e. if you're looking for quality, you need to pay a bit more?

Just recently been asked to play a couple of gigs at a large venue (Wembley Box-Park) in August. We've been asked to provide the PA - currently we use RCF 310As which are great for vocals and acoustic, but no so much for the kick drum. Backline for bass and lead guitar. Not looking to replace the 310As with something completely new, rather just adding a quality sub for occasional use into the mix. Please do let me know what you would recommend if you have a separate sub in your set up?

Anyone put one of these Baby Sumo's on their pedal board? I'm guessing they're actually a little too big height wise to fit into most cases?

Totally agree. I'd get one in a boring Lucille black if I was splashing out. Agree with that too! Hope (for the sake of my wallet) that my HB-35 is not too obviously inferior tonight! 😀

I've got one of our guitarists taking along his ES-339 to rehearsal tonight (obviously sought his views on this to) and I'll try to remember to take my Washburn HB-35 along - be interested to see what he thinks of them in terms of tone and playability etc.

Welcome to the dark side. You never need see or hear red on your board again...

+1 ^^ Surely part of the answer is how much you're looking for your amp and cab to colour your tone? I'm personally very happy with clean amp + uncoloured cab to faithfully reflect what's being put through them. Allows the tone of the bass and pups (and strings) to shine through. And if I want to add any further 'flavour' I've got a bunch of pedals for that.

Just seen this. Be interested in what y'all think!

And, importantly, it's clearly good for metal.

I see a trade coming on. @fretmeister was looking to replace the gold knobs on his 'Iron Man' MB amp. He assures me that it is nothing to do with group peer pressure. Honest guv.

Thread summary The new Little Mark Vintage is an improvement on the old LM3 in terms of EQ centre points, but is not as good as the new Marcus Limited range (which really does nail the EQ including providing semi-para mids). Mark King's only real influence on the Vintage amp is likely to be getting a cheque. But hey, why not? Which of us would turn that down. Or to have been one of the most influential bassists of our generation? Some folk see red (and gold) when they look at Markbass gear. HPF can be a very good thing.

Cheers gents. The "benefit" in my mind is that if a balanced TRS cable works in all situations then we could potentially just swap over to using TRS lead(s) and not bother with TS leads going forward, when it comes to replacing TS leads due to wear and tear. Luke, however, has highlighted the potential shortcoming of TRS leads with active basses, which would certainly be an issue for me if he is correct on that. Simplest solutions seem to be: DI box out e.g. Behringer DI400P would easily fit under most boards and costs the same as a TRS lead. or TRS lead to XLR (and relatively easy to remember why that's in the kit bag! )

In my experience FOH sound engineers will start cutting the bass** at 120 Hz given half a chance! My preference would be for them not to be cutting the bass above 60Hz (1st fundamental of low B) or above 80 Hz for 4 string basses (= 1st fundamental of low E). Thumpinator cuts at 28Hz and below, so is literally just removing sub sonic crud that no one hears. If you put at the start of your chain (as recommended by the maker) it also means that your compressor, if you're using one, is not needing to expend effort dealing with compressing high energy bottom end. Nice little piece of "always on" kit on my pedal board. Btw your DG M900 has a built in hpf - but no details from what frequency it is cutting or the steepness of the cut. ** as opposed to the kick drum

You got me all excited that my bass had already been Devinely immortalised! The Ken Smith BSR 5TN at 4.40 on Scott's YouTube is indeed close to mine, but not the same. Mine is the slightly smaller bodied BSR 5TNV 'Studio' version (which I suspect may have been a relatively limited release?) Smaller body => has a stacked bass & treble EQ and instead of a side jack socket it has a front jack socket. PS I like the growl of your Pedulla in Scott's review! And I've always been a fan of the Warwick growl (made worse by the fact that there is 5 string neck through Thumb currently in the FS). I suspect that you could well be very bad news for my bank balance and that I should cease all communication with you forthwith 😂

Ok cool re the Dunlops. Funnily enough, looking back to the very start of this 'mega' thread 2 years ago my first, but short lived due to scratched paintwork on arrival from Yamaha, BB 1025 was a Tobacco Sunburst. But I wouldn't now buy my P35 if it was a 'burst! I've somehow trans'd into a vintage white man. Fickle eh? 😂 ...although tbf my love for a BB 1025 hasn't changed a jot in that time, if anything it's grown. And finding a mint vintage white condition BB 1025 seems to have become very rare. The reason I'm asking about flats is that I'm already considering keeping the P35, which is the nicest 'mainstream' BB I've ever had both tonally and in terms of balance and feel, with its nickel rounds and putting some flats on the 1025. Not sure why it's taken me quite so long to work out that would give me two great PJ basses with brilliant necks but with a sufficiently different sound to warrant keeping both!

a) Make of TRS cable you're using - any particular recommendations? b) Can a TRS cable that has 1/4" jacks be used in place of a normal guitar lead e.g. if you weren't using a Stomp on a particular gig i.e. can we use a TRS as a general purpose lead for all uses?

Interesting comment about the Dunlops being naturally dark. The 735A has a very broad tonal palette with its active / passive combination. Just wondering whether something brighter may work better with a purely passive BB?

Did you gents land on a particular brand of TRS cable? If we get a normal guitar jack to guitar jack TRS cable would that also work just fine from bass to amp? That would make it a more general purpose cable. Or would you only want to use for a balanced output?

John - what have you landed on as your preferred flats? FWIW - I'm finding the original 'stock' nickel D'Addario EXL170-5 work a treat as rounds and don't break the bank; dB recently mentioned getting a double pack for £40 iirc.

Not if you're trying to play a low B, C, D or Eb in the middle of a song 😂 But, more seriously, congrats - there are a lot of very happy 734a / 735a users on this thread. You do realise you are now required to post some pictures of your 734/5 twins don't you?

I added pics of mine to this earlier thread