Al Krow

Excellent thank you for that. I'll update my post to correct for this and disregard the nonsense on this point I've been fed from others for as long as I can remember

So what's your current "bit of dirt"? Actually that's not completely off topic given that drive pedals will invariably add [something similar in outcome to but which is not in fact] compression

I'm missing something here given that V = IxR The volume knob is effectively a potentiometer (if that's the right term) and increases volume by increasing voltage. Ohms (R) is a fixed. It seems to me therefore that turning volume down has the same effect on reducing current draw and the therefore wear and tear on amp parts as would increasing ohms. So me running my bass amp at "half volume" (in very approx terms and assuming a linear response) through a 4ohm cab is going to be the same as running it at full volume through an 8ohm cab. I simply don't see your argument about a greater ohm cab extending the shelf life of an amp where the volume is the same for both.

Thanks - a lot of common sense. Although if you have an amp that can handle 2 ohms (which, for example, the DG M900 does) then getting a single 4 ohm cab is not going to limit you if you decide you need to add a second (4ohm cab) and you have the benefit of getting the full output from your amp whenever you want (providing your cab can handle it). Just on the sound intensity point Bill, are you saying these guys have got it wrong when they say that +3dB is a doubling of sound intensity? http://www.sounddeadsteel.com/what-is-a-decibel.html

I guess I've dealt with the same issue by never needing to go anywhere close to the 'red line', by having plenty of headroom. A nice to have that is available if you happen to own an amp that can put out 800W or (in my case) 900W at 4ohms. But I think you're saying that a 4 ohm load will more quickly knacker the parts of an amp than an 8 ohm cab regardless of what volume it's putting out? Be interested in engineering basis for this, as it's not something that is immediately obvious to me.

So if I've got you down right, you would always choose an 8ohm except when you choose 4ohms? 😁 But more seriously, if you are recommending 2 x 8ohm cabs = presenting a 4 ohm load that's going to be exactly the same 'wear and tear' on your amp's parts as a single 4ohm cab. In any case, I don't accept that today's quality built D class amps, which are often capable of handling 2.67ohms or even 2ohms, are the wilting snowdrops you suggest they are. And for smaller gigs you can just turn the volume dial down.

Don't sound so surprised 😁 - you're a bass player => highly attractive to anyone with a love for live rock music. - you play a Yammy bass => excellent chance of sounding great to anyone with ears.

+3 dB is a doubling of sound intensity, which I accept isn't the same as a perceived doubling of volume, but still worth having if the choice of 4ohm doesn't cost you a penny extra. I've had a number of respected sound engineers say that a single 4ohm cab will let the amp 'breathe' in a way a single 8ohm won't. No question that two 1x12s or two 2x10s will be louder than a single 2x10, other things being equal, as you have a greater volume of air being pushed. But if you're looking for a single lightweight cab solution, you'll be hard pressed to beat the VK 210 MNT 4ohm for a 500W amp head. Trouser flapping per se is just a load of hot air

PS doesn't have to be VK (I just happen to know that it's a great cab from having had both the 210MNT and currently LNT versions). Substitute whatever quality 4 ohm cab that can handle/deliver the full 500W output from your amp and you should be just fine in terms of headroom.

The issue you currently have is that you are using an 8 ohm cab and your amp is only putting out 250W. Get the 4 ohm version of the VK 210 MNT. The cab will be able to handle and deliver the full 500W from your DG 500. You should then have zero problems keeping up with your drummer. If for some reason your full 500W is not enough (and I can't imagine why that would be!) you would need to have a look at the whole rig, including your amp and maybe switch to the DG M900 and VK210 LNT 4 ohms (which can handle 1200W RMS).

And you choose your partner based on the colour of their hair, I presume? Just to keep things real, of course.

Totally agree that if you're buying second hand at whatever price, most of the price 'hit' will typically be taken by the first owner. I was really thinking (and should have made it more explicit in the OP, which I will do now) about folk buying new £3k basses.

Two confessions: 1) Like @dannybuoy I'm also using a TC Spectracomp (not the Keeley) as my comp at the start of the chain. 2) If I was buying all over, instead of the Keeley I'd probably be tempted to get this:

You can almost always find the £300 bass you fancy to try before you buy, and even if you can't and it doesn't work out... You can almost always find a purchaser for the £300 bass without losing an arm, a leg, several organs, a couple of fingers...

They're both pretty transparent. It doesn't have the fancy lights that MXR has, if that's important for you. It has less control over parameters than the MXR has, unless you get the Keeley Pro version. But it knocks it out of the park when it comes to being a limiter.

Let's make that three in a row for the Keeley. It's very transparent so don't expect it to nicely colour your tone, it won't. It's also a great limiter. One of the best. That's what it's ended up being on my board.

Well I fortunately haven't yet, but I've just been looking at a few of the basses in the for sale, with stories along the lines of: I bought this amazing new bass!! ...I've had it 3 months, but it's not for me and I've decided to move it on Lots of nice appreciation from fellow BC'ers on how gorgeous it is But still for sale with not a sniff after 18 months... Ouch!!! I can't get my head around the whole thing. Sure if you've got £3k to blow on a bass and that's what you want to spend your hard earned cash on, go for it. But I'm guessing at that price it's going to be a 'dream bass' for even folk with cash to burn and what a nightmare when it doesn't shape up to what you hoped for and no one else wants it. Is the lesson here a simple one? Avoid designer basses unless you're absolutely sure what you're after and do everything you can to get your hands on something similar by the same luthier to try out before committing to buy?

Just get a VK210 MNT (or possibly an LNT, although your DG won't need that much power handling) and you won't need a second cab. Your ears will totally love you. Job done.

Although it's not an issue for the OP as he can get a second 8 ohm cab, I hadn't previously spotted that the DG M500 doesn't have a 2 Ohm mode unlike its big brother the DG M900. That's almost the wrong way around!

A very good analogy about the direction of travel.

If you want it a lot smaller, that can be sorted. There's a very clever chap by the name of @GisserD, who's got a bit of a following both over here and in the US for his little creation (I'm claiming credit for the blue and white edition). Be warned, he's tall...

I can't deny any of the above. And I'm possibly even worse: I've just turned down the possibility of a BF BB2, which is one of the most loved cabs on this forum, for the chance to get a Fearless F112. Bye Alex, hello Guy. Actually that's not entirely true about saying bye to Alex: my BF SC at 21 lbs continues to blow everyone away for what it delivers at its weight-point. And frankly I can't bear to part with it. It's just that back in the real world (and even on BC) there are so many fellow bass players who find that Markbass hits the spot at a price that's half of the stuff we've got ourselves into.

Ok that does it!!! I just gotta get me one of these. ...oh wait, I did that already. Now where did I leave it? 😄

So setting the bar high then? Funny thing is if you go into a store, the assistants will react with hushed tones if you mention high end Markbass. We are such bass snobs!