DHA

Here it is.... [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DHA-VT2-Twin-EQ-Bass-2-channel-valve-pre-amp-for-bass_W0QQitemZ310140925346QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item310140925346&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1688%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DHA-VT2-Twin-EQ-Bass...%3A1%7C294%3A50[/url] Offer of £200 still stands for another 2-3 weeks or until the remaining of the the first 5 off are sold. Dave

[quote name='Empire Road' post='481484' date='May 6 2009, 10:23 PM']Hello Dave I took the pick-up surround off the bridge pick-up on my Ibanez copy Rickenbacker and the connections came off. The wires from the controls [i]seemed [/i]to be attached to a single piece of copper wire. Is this so? How do I re-attach the cable to the pick-up? Thanks Alan[/quote] Hi Alan, A picture would be a help please Dave

Pictures... [attachment=24840:PICT0307.JPG] [attachment=24837:PICT0302.JPG] [attachment=24838:PICT0304.JPG] [attachment=24839:PICT0308.JPG]

[quote name='MusicalJuggernaught' post='477446' date='May 2 2009, 12:49 AM']Hi, I really need some help with my new aquisition. It is a 1972/3 markIV sound city b120. The problem is when that all the sound that comes out of it has horrendous fuzz distortion on it that all that it turns what you are trying to play into a wall of noise, and for a short period the treble pot when turned up gave an awful high pitched screech. In addition when i flicked the standby switch on once i got an electric showck that numbed my arm. Any ideas how i can go about fixing thisl, or if anyone knows where a valve amp tech is in the southwest (Bath/Bristol/Swindon area) I would be very grateful. Cheers[/quote] Take it to a tech.

Here's a picture. [attachment=24669:PICT0002.JPG]

[quote name='DanOwens' post='463942' date='Apr 16 2009, 02:05 PM']Thanks Dave, I'm really loving this tone (but then so are my guitarists, so you're probably about to get a couple more orders). I know you put a lot of love into making the pedals (and you can tell), so I don't want to offend you when I say I'm not too keen on the finish. How easy would it be to unscrew the innards from the case and re-finish it (I'm thinking of leaving it bare and adding control names with a Dymo Label Emboss thingy for a military-look). Thanks Dan.[/quote] I do a bare metal finish on the "Std" range. Don't think you will have any problems getting the paint off and refitting the electronics

[quote name='DanOwens' post='459565' date='Apr 10 2009, 07:49 PM']Hi Dave, Which version of the VT2 is this? I'm still interested in the new VT2-EQ, but this was a good price to see if I like the tone. Pics: Link: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320355461322#ebayphotohosting"]VT2 Dual Bass[/url] Dan[/quote] It has Dual channels rather than Twin. That means it's channel 1 only or channel driving channel 2, the new twin has 2 separate channels both with their own active EQ. There is a "custom" version of the Dual which has passive EQ. Both the VT2-Dual and the VT2-Dual-Custom will be replaced with the VT2-Twin. Dave

[quote name='Musky' post='459220' date='Apr 10 2009, 12:47 PM']If you can find one, a rack mount Blue Tube might hit the spot. It's my favourite distortion due to the fact that it allows you to adjust the bias to change the characteristic of the distortion rather than just the amount or tone (though obviously you can you that as well). There's also the Real Tube, which provides more distortion than the Blue Tube but is aimed more at guitarists. Both boost and bypass are switchable from the front or via a footswitch. They're also to be found in pedal form, only minus the bias control. Having said that, I've got a VT1 pedal and that's pretty damn good, so a DHA rackmount might be worth looking into. Maybe Dave could put a bypass on the front for you?[/quote] all the footswitch controls also have a front panel switch and led so it can be used without the footswitch. All my racks do this. Dave

[quote name='sk8' post='458467' date='Apr 9 2009, 02:39 PM']doesn't DHA do a rackmount?[/quote] Yes and there is a new 1U twin channel overdrive coming out very soon. Making two boxes up this weekend, one is sold and the other is for me. Also has tuner mute, headphone amp, line-in and valve driven FX loop. 3 DIs - main select signal (red, blue or by-pass) - red channel out and blue channel out (on all the time reguardless of by-pass) It's a rack mount version of the new VT2-Twin-EQ-Bass but has two extra DI's, FX loop (extra valve), tuner mute and optional footswitch. There is also my existing VT2-Dual-Custon-Bass in rack mount but I will stop making that once this new VT3-Twin-Bass is complete. Dave

[quote name='DHA' post='455497' date='Apr 6 2009, 02:34 PM']The overall height will be 95mm.[/quote] If this is a problem then I can turn the valves 90 degrees and have them coming out the back. Box would then be something like 220x120x75

[quote name='BassBalls' post='455985' date='Apr 6 2009, 11:45 PM']How much do you think the rack mount version will end up being? Will you do a reduced rate for the first few sold like the pedal versions?[/quote] I am making a rack mount version now as one has already been ordered. I will have a better idea of the cost of the production version once it's complete. But yes I could let 1 or 2 go at a reduced rate. PM me for a chat about spec, price, etc.

[quote name='DanOwens' post='455412' date='Apr 6 2009, 01:37 PM']So how much higher will the pedal be? I'm interested as my pedalboard lid is pretty low. Thanks Dan[/quote] The overall height will be 95mm.

[quote name='dannybuoy' post='455184' date='Apr 6 2009, 09:57 AM']Sounds neat Dave, would love to see a switchable 'speaker sim' lowpass filter added around 5k (or even adjustable freq like the Markbass VLE control) to the DI & headphone outputs. Also an fx loop so you can process delays etc after the overdrive yet still be able to utilise the DI/headphone outputs. That would make it a total EBS Microbass killer! Got info on the dimensions or any prototype pics?[/quote] The rackmount version will have a valve driven FX loop but as it requires another valve there is no way to get it into the pedal version. The box is the same size as the VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive and the VT2's - 185x125x95mm including knobs, switches and the guard for the valves. I ordered the PCBs this morning and I will make up a box in the next few days ready for their arrival, so I will post pic's when done.

[quote name='DanOwens' post='454892' date='Apr 5 2009, 08:35 PM']Hi Dave, So how exactly does it differ from the current VT2s? Two EQs, DI, CDin, headphone out, but no longer 1>2? I've been waiting for a second hand VT2, but if i'm right I may go for a new one of these! Dan[/quote] Hi Dan, Two active EQ's and separate channels plus DI and headphone amp are the main points. The 1>2 is replaced with the overdrive on the Red channel, same thing. Dave

I am just about to order the first batch of new PCBs for the latest pedal which will be called the VT2-Twin-EQ-Bass. Here's the spec, comments welcome. 1. Two separate channels, Blue Channel - Clean to Crunch (same as the VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive. Red Channel - Clean to Overdrive, is a VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive but with an extra gain stage. 2. Blue Channel - Gain, Level, Treble, Mid, Bass (active EQ), Bright switch, Boost Switch (boost level on pre-set inside the box). 3. Red Channel - Gain, Overdrive, Level, Treble, Mid, Bass (active EQ), Bright switch, Boost Switch (boost level on pre-set inside the box). 4. Common Input Pad level control. 5. XLR balanced DI, 1/4" jack in and out - for selected channel or by-Pass. 6. 1/4" stereo jack out for Red and Blue Channel out (non by-pass so on all the time) 7. Headphone amp with level. 8. Line in so you can play along on the headphones to CD's, iPod, etc. 9. DI level pot, DI ground lift switch. 10. By-pass and Red or Blue footswitches. 11. HERE'S THE NEAT BIT! - the two valves stick out the top of the pedal with a protective backet. One valve glows green when the pedal is selected, the other is Red or Blue for the channel selection. Valves can be swapped from the top. 12. Same size box as my other VT2 pedals, This pedal will replace the DHA VT2-Duals. I will be doing a rack mount version with 3 valves. Same spec as above but with a valve driven FX loop (3rd valve), 2 DI's, Tuner mute and footswitch. First pedals will be ready in about 3-4 weeks and I will do the same as I always do with a new product and let the first 5 BC members that order get them at a reduced rate. Target price for this product will be £250 + P&P - First 5 will be £200 with Power Supply and P&P I will do a guitar version as well. regards Dave

[quote name='leschirons' post='448283' date='Mar 28 2009, 06:28 PM']Hi Dave, Thanks for the info earlier. Took out the two power tubes and turned it on after fitting another new 1.5 fuse. Lights up and, stays lit up after turning standby to play position. Thanks again, hopefully, it will be a pair of tubes. Regards, Keith[/quote] It still might be the output transformer but try new matched tubes first, it will need rebiasing as well. let us know how you get on. Dave

[quote name='leschirons' post='447003' date='Mar 27 2009, 11:00 AM']Hi, I have a Fender 60 watt 2x12 Blues Deville in my studio that I let our guitarist use for rehersals. Last week, he forgot to turn it off and I discovered this 3 days later. (Standby was also off, ie, amp would have produced sound) Now, it fires up on the power switch but when the standby is turned off, ie, ready to play, it blows the 2.5 fuse. There was no smell of burning but I did notice that the speaker connection plate on one driver was floating and had become detatched. If the speaker wires (copper ones to the coil) had inadvertedly touch the chassis of the speaker, could this be tripping it out? or, is it a repair shop job? Thanks in advance for any advice offered.[/quote] If the speaker wire was shorted out then it will not be good news I am sorry to say. Try taking the output valves out and then see if it blows the fuse when powered up. If it does not then it might just be the valves that are dead, if it does then I expect the output transformer is toast. Good luck Dave

[quote name='The Funk' post='445239' date='Mar 25 2009, 06:21 PM']Thanks for the explanation. Next question: what's the advantage of Ploat and when would you use it?[/quote] Not really sure what the advantage is to be honest! But all high end DI's have this and it's simple to do so I did it. With Ploat you still have a ground connection via the 10R resistor and 99 times out of 100 this will fix ground loop hums but when it does not the ground Float will do the job. I am sure one of the brighter BC members will know why and will be along soon It's Pin 1 on the XLR that is connected to ground or not via the ground lift switch and not to be confused with the cable screen that is always connected to ground.

[quote name='The Funk' post='445204' date='Mar 25 2009, 05:56 PM']Float and Ploat?[/quote] Float disconnects the ground completely and Ploat connects to ground via 10R resistor and 100nF cap in parallel.

I have just received a bluk order of VT1-EQ PCBs and as there is a breakout bit on the board for the valve to sit in I put a spare DI circuit on there. So instead of bunging all the spare bits of PCB in the bin I can now offer a balanced DI pedal. It will be an XLR balanced DI (same design as the EQ) with a 3 position ground switch - ground, Float and Ploat, instrument in and out on 1/4" jacks (out is just linked to the in), DI level pot with switch for on/off (also switches on via the i/p jack), on led, battery and 9-12VDC centre negative power connector in a 110mm x 60mm x 50mm (with the knob) box. This is solid state design so there is no valve signal path unlike my other designs, it is not designed to colour the tone in anyway. £30 + £3.50 P&P to BC forum members. Dave

[quote name='juice' post='444219' date='Mar 24 2009, 08:13 PM']not really sure.... I would guess from looking that the base part appears to still be on the board & there is no holes through the board so i guess it mus be soldered on the top somehow? by the fact that I can see the wire coil which i presume was 'inside' the component it has come apart. I wonder if it would be normal to apply this silicon type blob? It is probably to small to photo but will try when my cameras charged up thanks for your help so far[/quote] Ah! It might be a surface mount component (SMT) in which much harder to fix without the correct equipment. Ring Line 6 would be my advice. Dave

[quote name='juice' post='444079' date='Mar 24 2009, 06:37 PM']hi, I have a Line-6 DM4 distortion modeler which has packed up on me. As it was rattling I opened it up expecting to find a loose chip. What I have found is a component labeled 330fu which looks like a resistor of some sort with wire wound around a central core it appears as though it is covered in a silicone type blob. The position on the circuit board is marked as L1 on the main power in section. I would love to get it repaired but Line 6 haven't contacted me despite 2calls a week for 4 weeks! thanks for any help you can give juice[/quote] It's an inductor and sounds like it's part of the switchmode power supply circuit. Anyone with some soldering iron skills should be able to sort that out. Dave

[quote name='jw54' post='440312' date='Mar 20 2009, 02:30 PM']Hi Dave I've just been given a Behringer BA210 cab and one of the speakers has blown. What I want to know is what is the cheapest way to fix the problem? The drivers are 250W at 4 ohms - I don't know whether they are connected in series or parallel - and a new Bugera aluminium cone replacement is £75. Could I replace both speakers with Celestions (200W at 8ohms and for £30 each) or is it possible to actually glue/repair the cone? Thanks John[/quote] You need to know how the existing speakers are wired and what impedance they are before we can work out what to do. I expect that if the cab is 4R then it's two 8R speakers wired in parallel, if so then why not just replace the blown speaker with a Celestion?

[quote name='Leowasright' post='436904' date='Mar 17 2009, 09:11 AM']I dont know anyone reasonable in portsmouth, Steves amps in godalming are good but its a fair way from you. This guy is near my friend who lives near Aldershot, so may be the #1 option. Good news overall, the Bassman now seems to be in a stable condition to now be usable. Better news, I got a 1981 MV Marshall 100 from my friend for £200 as well..... Now to a Hiwatt.... Thanks to Dave Hall.[/quote] You are welcome

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='432233' date='Mar 12 2009, 10:51 AM']Here's a question for the all-valve users out there... I had the chance to try out an all-valve head the other night (my first time), and I was blown away by the tone. Simply awesome. It was a 70s Traynor YBA-series head, and it micturated upon my solid-state Peavey Max 700 from a great, great height. Lovely, lovely clean tones, and plenty of grind and rage in there when I cranked it up. It felt like the sound I'd been looking for. I'm a little bit in love. :blush: So my question is this: how much of the tone of an all-valve head do you think comes from the power stage? Obviously there's a great deal of tone-shaping in the preamp stage, so I would assume that's where the majority of the tone is coming from. But feel free to disagree. (It was impossible to really tell on the Traynor -- it didn't have separate pre and power controls, just volume.) And the reason for the question is that I'm getting hold of an 800W solid-state power amp for next to nothing, and wondering if a valve pre would give me enough of that magic -- maybe one of the DHA boxes? Or if I'd be horribly disappointed and weep for my lost love.[/quote] Chris B is selling a DHA VTX-400-Bass on this site. Silly price! It's an all valve pre-amp plus a low wattage valve power stage which then feeds a 400W SS amp. So you get both valve pre-amp and output valve tone but very loud. Dave