DHA

[quote name='stacedabass' post='324465' date='Nov 7 2008, 08:24 PM']hi i have a dha valetone mk3 (love it!!) currently being powered by a maplins 12v 2.0A current, i was wondering if i could be able to power the mk3 with the T-rex Fuel tank using one of it's 12v output even though it has a maximum of 500ma current. I just want to cut down on all my trailing cables and i thought the fuel tank would be a good solution for my 9v and 12v pedals. Cheers Nick[/quote] Hi Nick, Yes it should be fine as the MK3 only draws about 300mA on start up and then drops to 150mA. The only things to watch will be if the 2.1mm connector can be set to centre positive and that the supply is well regulated (I suspect it is). Dave

[quote name='katri' post='317421' date='Oct 29 2008, 11:35 AM']is there any chance I will be able to custom order the VT1-EQ in red splatter in the future or will that not be an option?? Thanks Dan[/quote] Yes, I will still be doing the "Custom Shop" versions of the EQ's but the price will go up. Dave

[quote name='kennyrodg' post='316375' date='Oct 28 2008, 07:39 AM']Thanks for the replies. Yes,its the L49BR. If i'm honest dave its rendering my VT-1 unuseable.The background noise is terrible with your pedal and its a loud hum with both my boss and aphex compressors. Cheers for the link CK,i'll check it out. PS, Dave, I just noticed the one you show on your website is'nt the one from maplins,where do i get the one one your website ?? I'll have one of you if you have one. cheers.[/quote] I sell 100's of L49BRs and they are totally noise free - it's either a faulty one or its another problem with the set up. Dave

[quote name='kennyrodg' post='315584' date='Oct 27 2008, 09:58 AM']hey folks. I use a maplins power suply for my DHA pedal.I had an inkling the P/S is noisy so ive tried it on a couple of my other pedals and its the same on them all.Switch over to battery power and the pedals are quiet. Is there a decent alternative 12volt power supply available that anyone can recommend. Thanks in advance.[/quote] We recommend the L49BR from Maplins, is that the one that is noisy? Dave

[quote name='clauster' post='311262' date='Oct 21 2008, 01:02 PM']Dave, Any news on this? I fance a VT1 std in the near future but would like a painted one.[/quote] Yes, about another 3-4 weeks as we are working on the first batch of boards now. Dave

[quote name='karlbbb' post='309971' date='Oct 19 2008, 06:51 PM']Sounds like it'd be just what I need Dave! Would the pedal be OK to run after a Boss tuner pedal, or would I be best just leaving the tuner out until I need it? The idea of the VT1 is certainly intriguing and would be great to have all my tone coming from just the one pedal.[/quote] Yes it will be fine after the tuner. Dave

[quote name='karlbbb' post='309785' date='Oct 19 2008, 12:47 PM']If I was to buy the DHA VT1-EQ-DassDrive would the internal tube offer any natural compression? With regards to compression I'm only after a tiny amount just to smooth out the sound, so was wondering if having the tube in the DHA pedal would give me the small amount I need?[/quote] Valves add compression anyway as they tend to fatten out the sound and seem slower to react to peaks than solid state. But there is always the colour switch on the EQ which switches in a negative feedback path into the circuit and this introduces compression and gain. Dave

[quote name='dannybuoy' post='308800' date='Oct 17 2008, 05:47 PM']Hi Dave, I had a VT2 and one thing I did not like about it was the volume jump when engaging the 2nd valve stage. It would be much more useful to have either 2 separate channels that you can switch between, or just add a separate master volume control for 1+2 mode. It would also be great to have a switchable 5kHz low pass filter (i.e. speaker sim) on the DI and headphone outputs! I also preferred not to use the colour switch, and the clipping switch was very subtle - Si seemed to not affect the sound much, and Ge dropped the volume by a large amount. Personally I would prefer to not have these features and instead have a cleaner and more low-cost layout. Pokey-out-lightey-up valves are a great idea though! As long as they're well protected like on the EHX tube pedals.[/quote] I am looking at two volume controls and the boost only being available for channel 1 which will sort the volume jump issue. I will look into the filter idea as I have had that request before. The two separate channels idea is not new as I used to do a "Twin" pedal which had two VT1's in the same box. So you could have channel 1 or 2, plus 1+2. I have been thinking about a VT3 in a rack but it's possible I could just about do it in a pedal. It would be a VT1 and a VT2 in the same box so 3 valves with true separate channels. I will try and use the same PCB for both the VT2-EQ-Bass-Drive and the VT3-EQ-Bass-Drive to keep the costs down. So if the VT3 is more what people are looking for then I work on that. Will do versions with or without some features like DI, headphones, Colour, clipping so that there are different cost options. I will work out a price for the VT3 if anyone is interested. I think one thing to remember about these pedals is that they are really valve pre-amps as well as overdrives/EQs/DIs and I have VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive customers using them to drive separate power amps and active cabs. Dave

Hi all, I have had a few requests for a dual channel version of the VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive which we do but only in a rack format. So I have been thinking about what I can fit into our standard larger box and have come up with the following...... 1. Valve driven two stage overdrive with true by-pass and 1+2 footswitches. 2. Two 12ax7 valves fitted pointing up thou the case with protective cover. Will be able to swap valves without taking the back off. When channel 1 is selected one valve will light up blue and when 1+2 is selected then both will light, one red and one blue. 3. I/P pad, Gain 1, 1>2, Gain 2, Level, Boost (switch pot), Treble, Mid, Bass, Q controls. 4. Bright switch, DI ground lift switch, Colour switch and Si/Ge clipping switch. 5. Balanced DI with XLR 6. In and Out 1/4" jacks 7. 2.1mm power connector - 9-12VDC operation. 8. Active EQ with mid band Q sweep. As I say it's really a cross between the VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive and a VT2-Dual-Custom-Bass. This design will require a new PCB so as I normally do with new projects I am offering the first five BC members that buy in advance a discount to help fund the development. The target price for this pedal which will be called a VT2-EQ-Bass-Drive will be £230-£240 but the discount price for the first five will be £200 and includes power supply and P&P. This version may not have the headphone amp and Line In as on the VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive as I might not be able to fit it all on the PCB. I will try. Comments welcome Dave at DHA

[quote name='umcoo' post='306015' date='Oct 14 2008, 09:23 AM']Bumping this to see if the vt1 kits are still available, and to any builders out there...how was it?[/quote] I have stopped doing kits for the moment. Dave

[quote name='alembic1989' post='304887' date='Oct 12 2008, 04:45 PM']Hi, I have a bass currently fitted with 2 bartolini soapbars, and an EMG BQ3 preamp system (with mid sweep control). I want to replace the bridge pick up with a Delano Music Man type . Is it simply a question of pulling the old Bart out and replacing it with a delano (After routing to correct size)..or is there something I am overlooking??[/quote] As long as both pickup types have the same number of wires then yes it's that simple. Some pickups have coil taps which means there are 4 wires not 2 but even then it's still simple to fit.

[quote name='andy67' post='289719' date='Sep 23 2008, 10:20 AM']Hi folks, I am able to wire up a pbass no probs but...adding the dimarzio model one is presenting a problem!! I have the output wires terminated correctly from the model one: white and black joined - not in use green and earth red free I added another volume pot connected the pup (model one) as follows: Green and earth to third pole and top of pot, red to first pole (excuse the poor electronic terminology), leaving middle pole free, from there I connected the earth and red pole to the appropriate jack poles - nothing! what I want to so is have the split p working independently with tone, and the model one to have volume only. I have it connected up in Jazz Bass formation and it works perfectly except it sounds a wee bit too jazzy for my liking! please help... andy[/quote] sorry but I can't understand what you have done from the above, can you send a circuit diagram? Dave

Sounds like you are out of phase with the PA. Should not be the case if the DI is wired correctly. What happens if you Mic the cab instead?

We will be making a few changes in the way we operate in the next few weeks and I wanted you all to know. Production has been a problem over the last year or so due to high sales peaks at times and we have reached a point where we need to outsource some of the manufacturing. I have a good friend also based in Devon who has a small electonics company that is well suited to taking on the main volume production. So, we are splitting the current product range into two - "Custom Shop" and "Std". I will still make the "Custom Shop" models with their hand-painted boxes, etc. The range will include The VT1-MK3, VT1-"Bob-the-Blender", VT1-Bass-Compressor, Fuzzy Feeling, VT2-Dual and VT2-Dual-Custom, Any racks, amps, etc. plus any product with a custom paint finish or design. Looking at this range being sent out with a certificate of ownership and maybe a DHA "Custom Shop" T-shirt. The Std range will include the VT1-Std-Bass and VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive which will now include a single colour spray painted box (yellow is looking good). A new VT2-Dual-EQ-Drive will join this list at sometime. This will mean a reduction in waiting times. All pedals, effects etc will still have the same level of support, etc. Watch this space Dave

[quote name='Mr Fudge' post='277473' date='Sep 4 2008, 11:57 PM']I have received mine in the past few days. My rig is in storage at the mo as I am on paternity leave, however just for a bit of fun I put my guitar through it with a little practice amp and it sounded great. In its own right it would make a great little boost and added drive for guitar solo's. Can't wait to use it for what it's designed for.[/quote] The VT1's were designed for guitar to start with as I am a guitarist not a bass player. But, I was asked by a member or two on this forum if I would do a bass version and after a few mods and design changes the VT1 and VT2 Bass versions where born. I now sell 75% of my pedals to bass players! I find that the bass versions of my pedals work well for guitar but the same is not true of the reverse, it's okay but not as good. Dave

[quote name='El_JimBob' post='275058' date='Sep 1 2008, 11:03 PM']Care to explain a Baxandall eq design? I feel like such a tool cheers for the reply.... *edit* ok, i've had a bit of a read up so lets see if i can grasp this - would i be right in saying that the frequency bands in this type of eq interact with each other differently dependant on how much they are cut or boosted ie: make the mid-points appear to move/shift? and can i presume that 'noon' on each band would constitute a 'flat' eq? or am i talking out of my hole? [/quote] Yes, there is a small interaction between the mid and bass, treble. But there is no interaction between bass and treble that's why the equations don't work for a 3 band Baxandall design. A quick Google on Baxandall might help but it's the most used design for active EQ. When the treble, mid and bass pots are at noon there is a totally flat frequency response. This is why the Baxandall design is so good as other designs just take frequencies away and there is no flat response. Dave

[quote name='El_JimBob' post='271722' date='Aug 28 2008, 12:56 PM']Hi - i'm quite interested in the new EQ Drive, but i'd like a little more info on the EQ section's frequency bands if possible.... Cheers. Jim *apologies if this has been asked already*[/quote] Hi, I use a 3-band active Baxandall design and adjust the mid frequency bands Q point. The bass frequency mid point is around 30Hz, Mid 1kHz and treble 10kHz. But there is a +- 200-300Hz on the mid with the Q control which is hard to calculate as the Baxandall equations really only work with a 2 band design. There is a cut and boost of 20dB at each band Dave

[quote name='umph' post='269410' date='Aug 25 2008, 12:00 PM']should do an npn one ;< is it based on an mkII to?[/quote] Yes, it's based on ColorSound MKII.

Hi, Our rep in the USA (a bass player) has requested a bass version of our "Fuzzy Feeling" Ge transistor fuzz. So here it is with the design mods for an improved low frequency response. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DHA-Fuzzy-Feeling-Bass-Boutique-Germanium-Fuzz-effect_W0QQitemZ310077860092QQihZ021QQcategoryZ22669QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DHA-Fuzzy-Feeling-Ba...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url] It is available from us in the UK as of today. Dave

[quote name='dannybuoy' post='268059' date='Aug 22 2008, 07:31 PM']Dave, what would it take to add a switchable speaker sim on the DI/line/headphone outputs? This pedal would really have my interest then![/quote] A speaker sim would be a digital thing and I don't do that, sorry. BTW the headphone output can drive stereo speakers at about a 1W per channel into 8R. Dave

[quote name='El_JimBob' post='267929' date='Aug 22 2008, 03:46 PM']Would 3.5mm stereo jacks not be better for the headphone jack/line out and line in? Headphones and mini stereo cables seem to be more readily available in these sizes (as far as i am aware). Colour me interested tho, especially as you now seem to have discontinued those kits you were doing....[/quote] Yes, you are right should be 3.5mm for line in/out. Stopped doing the kits

[quote name='Silent Fly' post='234446' date='Jul 7 2008, 07:59 PM']Hi Dave/DHA, Do you have anynews about these pedals? Silent Fly[/quote] Hi, The final production of the VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive is now complete as the new PCB and design has been tested. Anyone waiting for a VT1-EQ-Bass-Drive will receive the new version in the couple of weeks. Pictures soon but it has the following features. VT1 valve overdrive with active EQ, Q sweep, balanced DI, line in/out, headphone amp, Colour switch, bright switch, selectable clean Boost with level, DI gnd lift. 10 knobs, 4 switches all on the top of the box. knobs - left to right (top row) i/p pad, Gain, Boost, Level, Q left to right (bottom row) Headphone/line out level, DI Level, Treble, Mid, Bass switches - left to right, Colour, Bright, Boost, DI gnd lift. connections - 1/4" jack instrument in and out. XLR balanced DI out 2.5mm power connector 2.5mm stereo jack headphone/line out 2.5mm stereo jack line in. The DI and line out/headphones are on all the time there is power connected but the EQ and valve drive is selected with true by-pass with the footswitch. The EQ is active and there is a mid range Q sweep. The line in allows the user to play along to backing, cd's, mp3's, iPod, etc. on the headphones/line out. Colour adds gain, distortion and compression - almost fuzz. Thanks to all for the comments and reviews which have helped develop this product. There is a short but very good review in the latest UK bassplayer mag. We are trying to keep the price low for a pedal with all these features as we see it as our volume bass product so keeping the £149 plus P&P and including Power supply for a while. Dave

[quote name='stevebasshead' post='261568' date='Aug 13 2008, 02:27 PM']Could be worth getting this moved to the Repairs and Technical Issues forum? Or drop a PM to Dave Hall (DHA) and ask where he gets his etched?[/quote] We use pro companies and use double-sided TPH and solder masks, not cheap and will cost more for the first one as the set up costs are high. Why use a PCB for a one off? Veroboard is great for one offs. Dave

[quote name='danlea' post='259800' date='Aug 11 2008, 11:19 AM']Ok. Given that the amount of treble cut is inversely related to the resistance in series with the capacitor, I've put in three options. In the off position, the resistance is simply that of the permanently wired in resistor (~250k - the figures in the schematic are minimum resistance specs of the resistors I'll be buying and they come in 240k, not 250k). This is the standard full spectrum tone setting of most basses. In the down position (A) the other resistor is added in parallel, giving a resistance just below it's own value. In the up position ( the resistor is shorted, giving effectively zero resistance and the full treble cut. I'm pretty sure that bit's fine, I'm not really certain about how the loading of the pickups affects the tone and output. If I were to follow the Seymour Duncan wiring for P-J blend and master exactly I'd be replacing the p pot with a resistor as it doesn't need to change, but I can't see that this resistor would then actually be doing anything useful, so have left it out. Dan.[/quote] Should be fine and will not do any harm so "suck it and see" Dave

[quote name='enigmatic' post='259315' date='Aug 10 2008, 02:42 PM']Hi, I'm not sure if this is the right place for this question, but..... Basically my amp got knocked off a stage and is now very distorted at all volumes. I've tested the head through another cab and it worked fine so the problem must be the speaker, I tried to a repairer to replace the speaker but he said he couldn't get hold of a replacement and wasn't sure when he might be able to, as they have been on order from Japan for over two months. Thomann do say they should get some in on either the 13-14 aug. However, as I've hurt my back recently i was wondering what you're thoughts were about replacing it with something like [url="http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=326"]http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/index...products_id=326[/url] Would this sound good? and would it be any lighter? Also would it be easy to do myself? My soldering at school wasn't too bad, just need to get hold of a new iron! Cheers MAt![/quote] I am sure it will sound fine but as I don't know the weight of the original speaker or the spec then I can't answer your other questions. Just make sure that it is the same impedance and can handle the power. It's only two wires to solder but you will need to make sure you get them the right way round. There will be a + - on the speaker and most likely the wires will be red and black, so red to + and black to - Dave