anzoid

And thanks for all the other comments whilst I was typing my last reply. If I clear a little space around the broken screw needle nose pliers might indeed do the job. Just not sure I've got the patience (see: didn't drill a pilot hole in the first place )

Thanks HowieBass, a quick Google search based on your comment turned up hollow screw extractors - smallest I can find is 1/4" - which, measuring on the headstock, is going to leave a larger hole than I'd like. I did see a suggestion of using panel pins to bang in a series of small holes around the broken screw to loosen it - not sure that would be much better, and harder to fill the damage I suppose. Not sure wood filler would give a good base to re-drill the hole, but would allow me to put in a dummy screwhead for "the look"...

Putting new tuners on my somewhat beaten up fretless Fender neck. I (stupidly) didn't drill a pilot hole for one screw (for the other three the holes already lined up). Anyway, screw was about 80% in when the head snapped off. Any advice on how to get the rest of the screw out? Is it even possible with such a small screw? I'm not too worried about the security of the tuner - seen plenty of basses where screws are missing from a tuner - but would like to make things tidy again if possible.

Oh... you mean the guitar...

I'm not sure covering yourself with a young child would be appropriate - might raise some eyebrows

Just bought a Behringer Bass Chorus from Pat. Super quick delivery and great communications. Buy with confidence Thank Pat!

Well, what with inflation and all that his £375 from 1987 is now worth £968... and don't forget the inflation on £200 worth of hard case... (£516 in today's money!!) So, it's actually a very good deal - perhaps even a bargain...

Just bought an MXR M81 Pre-amp pedal from Brian. Easy communication, super fast shipping and excellent pedal. Thank you!

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1493668542' post='3289881'] Perhaps it was to hide damage? [/quote] That's one way of doing it

Who would do this to a Peavey T40 [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEAVEY-T-40-BASS-GUITAR-BROKEN-HEADSTOCK-FOR-SPARES-GENUINE-U-S-A-/182554999536"]http://www.ebay.co.u...A-/182554999536[/url]

Sold some tuners to Gary. Great communication, fast payment, good person to do business with! Thanks Gary!

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1493457907' post='3288439'] [/quote] It's the Big Al before there was a Big Al

Another bass guitar auction coming up in Wiltshire, with a bunch of stuff from Mark Griffiths - including a very tasty looking Kubicki Factor. Start planning your bidding: [url="http://guitar-auctions.co.uk/catalogue-preview-thursday-15th-june-2017/"]http://guitar-auctio...15th-june-2017/[/url]

Recent convert to P-basses. This one started life as a 1998-1999 MIM fretless, replaced the fretless neck with an all maple one from a 2010-2011 MIM Fender. Pickup is an SD 1/4-pounder, scratchplate and bridge are no names off of eBay and I even changed all the screws to black to complete the look. Body is a little battered, but neck is perfect. Monster sound and I've not played any of my other basses since this one was done. [attachment=244051:p-bass-1.jpg] [attachment=244052:p-bass-2.jpg]

[quote name='MacDaddy' timestamp='1492515501' post='3280819'] If i just had basses, or didn't have guitars with humbuckers, definitely buy it again. But as i don't, and do, nope �� [/quote] Useful to know. Though I seem to have solved my original problem with my Line 6 G30 by using a slightly more powerful PSU... so not so much need to be looking elsewhere.

I used Jack's Instrument Services in Manchester (http://www.jacksinstrumentservices.com/) to get the body of a Stingray copy re-done in bright yellow (yeah...) a while back. Cost me £200 (I think that included return shipping, though I paid to get the body up there in the first place). I had already stripped the previous finish but Jack had to do some work on it to remove a bit of wood filler that I had left behind, because I didn't even realise it was there. The finish was nitrocellulose and was really nice when done - very good quality. He only does nitro, no acrylics or anything like that. Worth shooting him an e-mail anyway, I was well impressed with the overall service - responsiveness, communication, updates, etc. It did take a while but that was because I sent it over the winter and the finish needed extra curing time as it was cold in Manchester

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1492363100' post='3279698'] Leaving gaps above and below is actually bad news. You can get circular hot air flow coming from the back back into the front... [/quote] Thanks for that EBS Freak - didn't realise you could actually make things worse for yourself! Would that be the same if I put the amp in a large rack - say 12u tall with a racked mixing desk on top - something like this, which is an alternative option as we have a Yamaha MG166c to accommodate as well (pain the in the butt size for a mixing desk as it's 12u and there aren't many options for 12u desks... it's mostly 10u stuff...): http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/manufacturer/product.asp?item=spider-12u-x-12u-mixer-rack-on-castors-4870-6631 Would I end up having to blank off the rest of the rack?

Cool, thank you! Will go take a look at Swan's website.