Joebethell

Today has been a day to forget really. So in preparation for trying to get something done at the weekend on the bass I tried to stick some strings on to make sure everything is good up to tension (I should have done this a while ago but time has gotten away from me the last couple of months). Anyway things of note! Lucky I have a spare nut as in my absence of skill I may have adjusted it tiny bit too low but the even with it the bass has a bigger issue the bride recess. The only thing I can think is that the mark1 Badass has a thicker base plate as the Hipshot now struggles with adjustment. Height has to be set at a scary angle to get the string off the board. So back to square one do I wait for an old badass with the narrow spacing (rarer than s rare thing) or do I find some way to shim the bridge maybe like the old brass tone plate idea that yamaha used to use?

Yeah would have been around the same time late 90s. The RIC that I played was in the Exchange and was fireglo or Montezuma Brown can't remember exactly just remember the tone blew me away. Have had a couple since a 4003 and a 4001 but I still think that one had something extra. Such a same the two shops are gone though! Not many like that anymore if any.

Right time I got back on this. After not really getting time to do anything for a few months I plan on working on the Curlee over the weekend so hopefully some interesting updates to come.

Spent many hours lusting over Basses in the old Musical Exchange Brimingham and the Bass Centre round the corner. Stand out items include a Wal Mk1 for £300 a black Jaydee Supernatual that played like butter and a 4001 that sounded so huge!! I have never picked up another Ricky that sounded like that one. WHY I didn't purchase any of these I don't know. I used to love getting buzzed into the old vintage section next to the bass cave in Musical exchange silly really but I always remember that and the broken bits area that you could hunt through and make offers for all sorts. Stupid mistake by me was letting my PT5 go a few years ago after falling in love with it in Bass Direct still miss that bass keep looking at Tbird loaded basses (none Tbird shaped)

Ah so it is priced a bit high then. Good looking thing though not that I could justify it just not seen one for a while.

Dont know if this is a good price but looks like s nice bass for the money to me. Seem to remember these are rated very highly by some. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372168107339

That top is stunning I know you have a fingerboard selected but I think a birds eye or flamed maple would contrast really well. If it plays like the little beast I played at at the bash this will be very very hard to put down.

Been a while but finally got a little bit more work done on the Curlee. After my concerns over the bridge I have managed to attach it with very little work i sanded some of the finish in the cutaway flat and it fits in quite well now. I have also managed to screw it down without issue although the two outer screws are at the point where the neck joins the body they seem to bite into the body wood deeper than the neck so it feels very secure. Tuners have also now been attached after receiving the correct fitment. Next on the plans order a pickup and attach/shape the brass nut so I can get some tension on the neck and get it setup and playable.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1503297380' post='3356919'] This one should be a reasonably easy fix. If it was me, I would drill a decently sized hole (10mm dia minimum) to the screw depth with a forstner bit and glue in a hardwood dowel. There will be enough surface contact with the dowel for the gaps not to be critical. Most of the force on the bridge screws is sideways so it should be perfectly secure enough. [/quote] THANKS that's a great tip 👍

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1502432764' post='3351334'] Looking closely at your new bridge I wonder if you might have a problem with the attaching screws. It looks from your photos as if the screws will bite at the point where the neck root meets the body beneath the top. [/quote] So had a quick look this week but progress has been hampered by two things. Firstly I was going to fit the tuners only to find that I had been sent the wrong size 1/2" rather than the 3/8ths that had been ordered. After a couple of emails in which it was implied that I was at fault even though I have a clear email history with my specs stated they asked me to send back the incorrect items and the correct tuners would be sent out same day. I replied sharply saying I would post asap only to now be told they are out of stock so I have to wait 3/4weeks. Setback 2 as you thought it looks like the bridge mounting screws will be at the point where the neck meets the body the centre two screws would be in solid neck wood but the outer two would be in the gaps you can see in the pictures.

I had a sneaky bid but wasn't going over 20quid as I'm just trying to get a little system setup in the spare room. And these looked interesting.

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1502532296' post='3352032'] Do the bridge screws bite on a good piece of timber or are they right on the end of the neck beam? If they are close you might want to take the bridge recess to a depth that would allow you to insert a make-up piece. The make-up piece would be attached to both the neck beam and the body allowing you to attach the bridge to it and thereby remove the risk of splitting the end of the neck beam. I'd suggest with the CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue that you try it on the back first because it usually causes a whitish residue or bloom to appear on surfaces near where it is applied. I am not sure how easily the resulting blemish would buff out. For safety, ventilate the area when you use it anyway but it might help to keep a light draught airflow across the surfaces being repaired to lessen the bloom effect. But you know all of that already right? [/quote] Thank you all advise is more than welcome