Osiris

This might surprise you but.....

For good honest and transparent tone, a simple straight forward eq section and the versatility of a foot-switchable warm and usable drive channel, I highly recommend the Genzler Magellan. It'll do everything from clean mid scooped sounds to warm, classic mid rich drive - not full bore distortion but everything from vintage warmth to a subtle overdrive, all perfectly usable for an always on sound. Simple to use and quick and easy to dial great sounds into. And it's at the lower end of the price range compared to many of its peers too.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1496519188' post='3312107']
Pick up cover or scratchplate type thing - he was making headstock design lights - made me a GB Rumour style one - I'm pretty sure he could make you something to do the job.

I suggest you PM him to discuss..
[/quote]

Thanks, I'll drop him a line shortly.

[quote name='Mudpup' timestamp='1496480106' post='3311729']
Just found this yesterday on the Zoom site - it should make a great pedal even better
V2.0 firmware update now available

[url="https://www.zoom.co.jp/products/multistomp/zoom-ms-60b-multistomp-bass-pedal#downloads"]https://www.zoom.co....pedal#downloads[/url]

Adds 84 new effects including a load of amp models
Heres the new list - the ones with blue stars next to them are the new ones
[url="https://www.zoom.co.jp/sites/default/files/products/downloads/pdfs/E_MS-60B_FX-list_v2.pdf"]https://www.zoom.co...._FX-list_v2.pdf[/url]

I just did the update without any issues - although be aware you need to turn the power off whilst you do the update - and it seems to preserve all your old patches without a problem

Off to have a noodle now........
[/quote]

Thanks for the heads up, I've just updated mine and it takes about 10 seconds.
None of my presets were overwritten and there looks to be a ton of new stuff to play with too

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1496487078' post='3311820']
Bertbass can make you a cover on a waterjet - you'd have to send him template - sure it would be a better solution and won't cost the Earth.
[/quote]


Do you mean something like a bespoke plastic (or similar material) insert? That sounds like the sort of thing that could work.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1496478248' post='3311710']
[url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/polycell-trade-polyfilla-all-purpose-ready-mix-filler-white-2kg/29114?kpid=29114&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%2520Listing%2520Ads-_-Sales%2520Tracking-_-sales%2520tracking%2520url&gclid=CjwKEAjwvMnJBRCO2NSu-Puc6AUSJAAf-OSU92uy-j9vKcqo4-AczK_tUKyb3uX-O5YcdJzal9BDjxoCmnXw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CN-Q1-ufodQCFSgh0wodkHcIdQ"]http://www.screwfix....CFSgh0wodkHcIdQ[/url]
[/quote]

2 Kilo's ought to do it

[size=4]I've copied this in from a similar thread from a while ago, hope it's useful;[/size]

[size=4]Try and get your hands on a copy of [/size][url="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bass-Guitar-Dummies-Patrick-Pfeiffer/dp/1118748808/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485275192&sr=8-1&keywords=bass+guitar+for+dummies"]Bass guitar for dummies[/url][size=4] by Patrick Pfeiffer.[/size]

[size=4]Someone bought me a copy of it for Christmas a few years back as a so called novelty gift, but it actually turns out to be one of the best, non-dreary theory books that I've ever used.[/size]
[size=4]Up until that point I'd been playing for about 20 years and been through though quite a few theory books. Like you I found them to be mostly dry and uninspiring, whereas this is simple, straight forward and to the point. It manages to get the key points across succinctly without blinding you with science or making you lose the will to live.[/size]

[size=4]For example, like a lot of people, I'd spent years struggling to grasp the concept of modes. This book covers modes in a sentence or 2, which once I read it, I thought to myself "is that it, is it really that simple?" And yes, it is. It's just that everything I'd read about modes to that point had made the subject seem like an unnecessarily complex, esoteric mystery.[/size]

[size=4]Like all dummies books, it can get a bit [/size][i]Sesame Street[/i][size=4] in places, but if you can live with that it's a superb book.[/size]
[size=4]It may not be the most thorough, but I think that's what stops it getting tedious. However it covers the important, fundamental principles in an easy to understand way.[/size]

[quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1496414438' post='3311273']
I thought if the gap is about 1mm all around, the old covers might slide over the dimarzio cream covers.

And the Silicone will just be a bit of a bodge...

But.

It's your bass ����
[/quote]

The gap around the actual 'body' of the pickup is minimal, it's a good fit in the bass, it's just around the lugs where the screws are that there's an unsightly gap. That being the case, there isn't room to slide to original black covers over the cream ones, unfortunately.

Yes, the silicone would be a total bodge but easily reversible if it looks crap!

The glue holding on the covers looks just like [url="https://www.talkbass.com/threads/vinatge-dimarzio-model-p-creme.437417/"]these [/url](second picture down). It seems to be a sealed unit to me.

Aesthetics are down to personal taste, I really like the mismatched look

[quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1496412731' post='3311255']
I wouldn't bother. And certainly not silicone...

Would the cheapy cover off the old pickup not slot over the dimarzio?
[/quote]

Why not use silicone, out of interest?

I thought about changing the covers, but the Dimarzio's covers look like they're glued on (or at least have been sealed with something) so I didn't want to start pulling anything apart as it'll probably do more damage than good.

I use mine all the time too, probably more than my ring finger. I haven't got the longest of fingers, so I find it easier to cover smaller stretches using index and pinky e.g. 2 frets at the lower end of the neck, say F to G, than by using a finger-per-fret approach. I also usually play octaves like this too, index on the lower note and the pinky on the octave.

I saw Bruce Foxton play last year (one of my heroes) and he didn't appear to use his pinky all night

I recently changed the P pickup in my cheap and cheerful Peavey Zodiac for a Dimarzio Model P but the cream colour on the white body highlights the large routing around the pickup lugs. Is there a quick and easy way to fill these so it doesn't look too obvious?

I was thinking along the lines of some white silicone bathroom sealant, would that do it? It doesn't need to be a professional job, I'd be happy with something that just makes it less obvious.

[attachment=246501:P1040422.JPG]

[quote name='No. 8 Wire' timestamp='1496004108' post='3308085']
I just fired up the pc editor for the first time today.

You can definitely see and tweak the artist tone prints with the pc editor.
[/quote]

Yes, it does indeed look like that's the case, but what's confusing is that the tone print name in the drop down box in the top left hand corner of the editor stays as 'Default' even though the parameters change, it doesn't change to reflect the name of the tone print currently loaded into the pedal as I would have expected it to.

Anyway, I've made a couple of minor tweaks to the muscle comp tone print (reduced the level high a bit and upped the blend all a little) and loaded it back into the pedal. Now to see how it sounds at tomorrow nights band rehearsal...

I one played with a drummer like that, a technically brilliant player with the 'slight disadvantage' of having no sense of rhythm (we put up with him as long as we could because he was a bit of a character, but it still didn't last).

Anyway, myself and the 2 guitarists were chatting at the bar after a gig one night and another drummer friend of mine came up and said to us "You three have got to stop going into those changes too early".

I can't comment on the BF super twin as I've never played through one myself and am yet to hear another player using one.
However, they are very well respected cabs that a lot of guys on here love them. It's also currently (possibly the only) cab on my mental short list of potential replacements for if and when it's time to replace my current cab.

Speaking of which, I have been using a Tecamp M212 for 7 or 8 years now and couldn't be happier with it.
As I understand it, Tecamp are now effectively Eich. I don't know the details of what happened but someone may well be able to fill us in? [size=4]Anyway, the Eich 212M appears to be more or less the same cab as its Tecamp predecessor. The hardware and specs seem to be virtually identical, although mine is 4 ohm and has a steel grill instead of the grill cloth of the Eich.[/size]

So, what do I like about it? It's light, an easy one man lift, lighter than you'd expect considered its size. It's loud, I think the sensitivity is something like 101 db which very good. I've ran it with several different amps and have never needed to push the volume control of each beyond about 10 o'clock even when playing with loud bands. The cab has a huge sound, I've used it without PA support in rooms that will hold around 300 to 400 people and never felt that is was struggling or lacking anything. The projection is superb, even in cramped gigs where it's blasting into my backside all night [size=4] I can still clearly hear everything that I'm playing. Most importantly, it sounds great too. You can clearly tell different amps and basses apart through it so it's not adding its own tonal colouring to the sound, just putting out what you put in. It'll handle deep lows without farting out and the horn is clean and bright without being noisy or abrasive. Some people claim that neodymium speakers have a pronounced mid range response (or something like that) but that's not the case here. The mids are punchy and clear.[/size]

[size=4]In my experience[/size], it's been brilliant, a perfect single cab solution. Never had any issues with it either!
[size=4]Assuming the Eich is at least as capable as its predecessor, it'll be a very good choice.[/size]

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1495974554' post='3307834']
THat should be pretty easy to do using the PC editor, which is the way I access the pedal. I can't comment on using the android app.
Once you've downloaded the editor and booted it up on your PC with the pedal connected by USB, the software has two main tabs - "library" (to access TC's online toneprint library) and "editor". If the musclecomp toneprint is already on your pedal then just go straight to the "editor" and all the parameters should come up. If it is not there already, then use the "library" to get to musclecomp and then send it to the pedal, and then go to the "editor".

From your description, the easiest way to reduce treble is to reduce "level high" in the gain section of the parameters.

THis link has someone else's screenshots of the parameters accessed on the software and what it should look like on screen .........https://www.talkbass.com/threads/npd-tc-spectracomp.1264098/#post-19623477

Once you've tweaked it to your liking then store it using the software to be able to reload it again if you need to (i would then send it to the pedal again (just to make absolutely sure)).
[/quote]

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Admittedly, I haven't actually hooked the pedal up to the editor software yet, but I had read somewhere that you couldn't see the parameters for artists tone prints. I think the justification was some sort of copyright or legal issue, although I've been trying to find where I originally read that, but to no avail.... Anyway, I'll give it a go and see what happens.

Is there a simple parameter for blending back the uncompressed signal for parallel compression?

Mine seems to hold the tone print without 'forgetting' it. It's powered by a T.Rex fuel tank junior.
Should it ever develop pedal amnesia, I could probably live with beaming a suitable tone print back in on power up, but only as long as it doesn't forget it while it is being used I.e. long enough to get through a gig without having to 'remind' it what it's supposed to be doing.

Yes, another happy user of this superb little compressor here too!

Agreed that the default tone print isn't the best, with the rest of my gear there was something unpleasant going on with the mid range that I didn't like, it seemed a bit mushy and ill defined, but that was soon addressed by swapping out the tone print. While some of the downloadable tone prints can be a bit OTT, there are some more subtle and very useable ones too; a couple worthy of mention are Fed Comp, which is ultra transparent and even, and Captain East, another subtle one with some parallel compression throw in.

I've had look at the tone print editor with a view to trying to create my own print. However, although I understand the principles of compression and what the respective parameters control, what I don't fully understand how best to configure them across the different compression bands to achieve the sound I want. I've only ever tweaked single band compressors before.

At the minute, I'm using the Muscle Comp tone print as I like the punch it imparts especially at gig volume. But it also adds more top end than I like, so I simply eq it out at the minute. I'd like to create something with the punch of the Muscle Comp but without the higher frequency boost, and to also experiment with adding in some parallel compression. It doesn't look like you can edit the existing tone prints so I can't see what settings are used in the Muscle Comp print, otherwise I'd start from there and make some changes to suit.

Has anyone got any pointers that could help me achieve this, please?

Sounds like it could possibly be a combination of the tweeter and mid driver in the cab and/or pickup balance that make the cable tone noticeably more pronounced with your rig. I use a Tecamp 2x12 with a horn, although this is only up at about 10 to 15%, and tend to play pretty much exclusively on the neck pickup, occasionally blending in a little bit of the bridge pickup if need be, so my tone is possibly darker than your own?

Anyone else think it looks like Groot from Guardians of the Galaxy? Or is it just me?

[quote name='sumorabbit' timestamp='1495730317' post='3306218']
I bought the G55 today and it works flawlessly with all previously mentioned whiney basses. What a difference. Oddly there is a substantial tone difference. The gr55 without cable tone is clicky on the top end and with its considerably dulled. The G10 had a baked in cable tone that was somewhat in the middle of these extremes, nothing I can't solve with my now working preamps though eh!

Cheers guys
[/quote]

Glad to hear that the problem has now been resolved.

In my experience, I've only ever found the cable tone button to be subtle. Noticeable, but subtle none the less.
But this could possibly down to differences in how we set up our own sounds, perhaps? I tend to play with a relatively flat eq with enough high end to make the bass clear in the mix but no significant treble boost. Do you prefer a more modern glassy top end? Could that be why it's more pronounced with your gear?

Oh no, that sounds a right ball ache

I've been gigging a G55 for 2 or 3 years now with both and active and passive basses. My 2 actives both have 9 volt Glockenklang pre-amps and I've never had any high pitched whine or other unexpected noises, crap playing aside.
One is also a Sandberg with their own brand pups, not Delano's, the other is an Ibanez with Bartolini pups.

I'm powering it with the supplied Line 6 wall wart but off the top of my head I have no idea what the voltage is for it.

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]This feedback isn't based on any recent BC market place transaction with Paul, but I think he's more than earned the following praise.

Paul has done a lot of work for me over the years on a number of my basses, from quick and easy jobs to a couple of outright ball aches. Every job he's done has been completed with great care and attention to detail and he's completely honest about any unexpected issues. He also managed to solve an issue with one of my Sandberg's that 2 or 3 other luthiers/guitar repair guys had not even been able to diagnose, let alone fix. And on top of that, the prices he charges are more than fair.

Cheers, Paul. [/font][/size]

[quote name='blue' timestamp='1495414521' post='3303566']
Works like a charm. The trick is finding pre-sets you can apply to your work.

Blue
[/quote][size=4][quote name='blue' timestamp='1495414521' post='3303566'][/size]
Works like a charm. The trick is finding pre-sets you can apply to your work.

Blue
[/quote]

That's good to hear.

I don't have the Corona chorus pedal although it looks great, but I recently picked up a TCE Spectracomp and have been having great fun trying out the different tone prints to see which ones work well for me.

[quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1495389700' post='3303412']
[attachment=245725:Warwick $$ 2007 (3).JPG]

I found one! It's not a Streamer, but it is a Warwick.

A $$ model (German made- 2007); humbucker PUPs with single or double coil selection and a choice of passive and active modes. Swamp Ash body, Ovangkol neck, Natural Oil finish.

In good condition, with a few dinks commensurate with being a 10 year old bass, but acquired for a negotiated price not far above the Warwick Rockbass Streamer Standard I returned last week.

I had the benefit of Grangur in tow, for a second opinion, with his SS1 to A/B and my Markbass to play through (the seller had an Orange TB 500 which has a lot more colour). We both agreed that the $$ was worth getting and had good tone and tonal variety.

Many thanks BC'ers for all your input on this and other related threads (particularly to Grangur for giving up his time, again, and sharing his expertise) and to the wise voices encouraging me to go for a quality bass, second hand, rather than settle for a lesser new model. I already know I will both enjoy playing this more and it will retain its value much better than the bass I have just returned.

Really looking to getting up to speed on 5 strings and getting to know this Warwick $$ bass over the coming weeks and months.

AK
[/quote]

Looks great, let us know how you get on with it once you have put it through its paces

[quote name='blue' timestamp='1495042154' post='3300824']
Thanks Osiris & Bartel

Blue
[/quote]

Did it work?

[quote name='lee650' timestamp='1495120643' post='3301451']
Just a quick question! If you have the TC Corona,could you use a toneprint from the Vortex pedal so you can have chorus/flanger on one pedal?
[/quote]

No idea, maybe try it and see?
My guess is that it wouldn't load - just don't blame me if it kills the pedal