Osiris

[font=Calibri][size=2][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Quick update on my progress with this;[/font][/size][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=2][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]I bought a bottle of white vinegar for a whopping 39p from the local supermarket. Using a cotton bud dipped (as opposed to soaked) in the white vinegar, I cleaned the corroded contact as best I could given the confines of the space I was working in. Then, I dried off any excess vinegar with a dry cotton bud. Next, I cleaned away any potential acidic residue from the vinegar using a cotton bud dipped in tap water (I'm sure deionised water would have been preferable but I didn't have any to hand). Dried this off again with a dry cotton bud. To make sure everything was completely dry, I blasted it with warm (not hot) air from Mrs Oriris's (I'm not allowed to call her Isis anymore) hairdryer for a couple of minutes.[/font][/size][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=2][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]I did this 3 times, allowing 24 hours between each session. And the result, well, it looks as though pretty much all of the corrosion has now gone. The contact is much cleaner, there is still a very slight discolouration, but it looks way better than it did a couple of days ago.[/font][/size][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=2][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]As for reliability, when I first noticed the issue, the transmitter would fire up around 2 times out of 3 and on the third time it would not switch on.[/font][/size][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=2][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Last night I switched the unit on and off 12 to 15 times, randomly reinserting the batteries just to be sure, and it fired up each and every time [/font][/size][/size][/font] [font=Calibri][size=2][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Fingers crossed that this has solved the issue. Needless to say that from now on I won't be leaving batteries in the transmitter when it's not being used. [/font][/size][/size][/font]

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1457976359' post='3003578'] Another thing you can try (if you're comfortable with the soldering iron) is to use a very fine sandpaper to the place where you have the corrosion and then tin it with solder - a fine layer of solder will protect it against future corrosion and promote a good contact. A picture of the damaged area would be great for us to know the extent of the corrosion. [/quote] That sounds like a great idea. Only problem is that the corroded connector is at the bottom of the battery cavity so it's very tight in there. Taking the case apart may well open it up to allow better access, but I'm reluctant to dismantle it in case I can't put it back together afterwards (I hate doing fiddly little jobs!). I'll try and get some pictures later. The corrosion isn't too bad, although the affected connector is clearly tarnished compared to its still shiny neighbour.

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1457941399' post='3003090'] Blimey that's certainly not a standard replacement. It looks more like a part of the Millennium Falcon [/quote] Is the Hyperdrive f****d again???

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1457913391' post='3003047'] I don't think you'll find replacement contacts other than from Line 6. Looking at my own transmitter, this looks like them: [url="http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/285420-Line-6-30-51-0473"]http://www.fullcompa...ne-6-30-51-0473[/url] You can get spare parts from Line 6 in the UK, see [url="http://www.mia.org.uk/supplier/195/line-6-uk-ltd"]http://www.mia.org.u...5/line-6-uk-ltd[/url] Be warned, however, they are totally useless - took several goes before I finally managed to get a battery door from them. I think they mean well but are utterly incompetent. [/quote] Cheers, I'll drop them a line to see about sourcing some spare contacts - although from what you've said, I might come to regret it if it takes forever!

Thanks, Norris, I'll have a look online and see if I can find some suitable look replacement contacts. I'm not sure my soldering skills are up to something as fiddly as replacing them through, I don't mind replacing pots and pickups but tend to steer clear on anything with a PCB inside. Looking online, it seems that the accepted wisdom is that corroded contacts can be cleaned using either vinegar or lemon juice gently applied with a cotton bud. As the unit is already temperamental I'm tempted to try this first particularly as the corrosion doesn't seem to be too severe, at least when compared to some online images. I can't see that this will make anything worse than it already is. Fingers crossed that this will solve the problem. Failing that I'll look at getting the contacts replaced. Worst case scenario is buying a new transmitter.

I've had a battery leak in the transmitter of my Line 6 G55 wireless system. The battery was a Duracell Pro-cell AA alkaline jobby, so supposedly a decent battery, not some cheap and cheerful thing. Since then, the transmitter doesn't always power up, it does more often than not, but around 1 times in 3 it won't. This can usually be resolved by taking the batteries out and reinserting them. When it does power up, it's stable and doesn't cut out, it seems quite happy. When you look inside the transmitter, you can see that one of the metal tabs that the battery makes contact with at the bottom of the battery cavity has some corrosion on it. My guess is that this corrosion is what's causing the issue. There was also some dried salt like deposits which I have cleaned away with a dry cotton bud. Anyone have any ideas as to if it is possible to somehow clean up the corrosion (it's in the bottom of a very snug AA battery sized cavity, so there's very little room to maneuver)? If it can't be cleaned up, does anyone have any idea if this is likely to be expensive if I was to get it repaired (although I appreciate that there's no telling if there is any further damage that can't be seen inside the unit)? The cost of a new unit transmitter - [url="http://www.dv247.com/microphones/line-6-tbp12-channel-wireless-transmitter--83632?gclid=CKac3oWwvcsCFYMK0wodIlUOJA"]model number TBP 12[/url] - is around £120. Am I just better of cutting my losses and buying a new transmitter?

I asked a similar question a few weeks ago too, [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/278725-bypassing-a-b3-in-the-fx-loop-will-it-mute-the-amp/"]the thread is here[/url]. In summary, I have run my B3 through the fx loop of my TC Electronics RH450 and it seemed happy enough. No nasty digital type distortion issues. [quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1457735887' post='3001544'] I'd allways check a pedal before putting it in an amps effects loop as it can damage pedals that aren't designed for it. [/quote] According to one of the responses on my thread, the pedal will not get damaged by running it in the loop, it will just distort. However, that's only what someone else has said, I do not claim to know if it will cause any damage or not, I'm just saying that there is more than one school of thought on this issue. There's certainly no warning in the B3 manual. and, I have been running a Mark Bass super booster pedal in the fx loop for seevral years and that has never complained!

Just received a fuel tank junior power supply from Pete and it was an easy, hassle free transaction. He kept me informed at every step of the way. The unit itself was immaculate as he'd described it and it arrived quickly. You can't ask for any more than that

Just received an old Boss bass limiter pedal from Josh and the transaction was a breeze. Fast and friendly communication all the way. Happy to recommend him to other Bass-chatters. Cheers, Sid.

Tom bought a mic from me and it was a doddle. Fast and friendly comms and quick payment. Can't ask for more than that as a seller .

Just had thought, I don't claim to fully understand all the techy talk about signal levels, but as the B3 seems happy in the effects loop, would the prolonged input of the higher signal do any damage to the unit? (As mentioned earlier, I've been using a Mark Bass Super Booster for about 3 years (approx 30-40 gigs per year) without any obvious problem).

OK, I have finally found the time to try the B3 in the effects loop of my TC RH450 and, at in-house volumes at least, it seemed quite happy. No sign of unwanted noise or nasty digital distortion or any obvious loss of volume, although I'd need to confirm that at gig volume to be 100% certain. There was certainly nothing obvious at the volume I was playing - loud enough to annoy my son watching TV but (unfortunately) not loud enough to upset the elderly nosy neighbors. I tried the B3 in both active and passive modes and it worked without issue, using my usual gain and eq settings (gain just below clipping and eq mostly flat with a slight (approx 3dB cut to the low mids) using my passive bastardised Sandberg Basic VM with Seymour Duncan SPB-4 and Nordstrand MM4.4 Pickups, which has a very hot output for a passive bass. So, in answer to my original question - will it mute the amp in bypass mode, the answer is yes and no. Entering tuner mode keeps the signal passing through, putting the B3 into silent tuning mutes the amp.

Thanks for the suggestions, folks. In the end I didn't get a chance to set anything up last night, oh the joys of having a family .... Dood, I always set the amp input gain so that it's just below the point where the pre-amp clips when I really dig in (I was under the impression this is the optimum setting?). With that in mind, if the B3 is in-line between the bass and amp, then presumably and effects that boost the signal, like a drive setting, will also clip the pre-amp? I didn't realise that fx loops have a stronger signal. Any reason for that? Surely they are optimised to work with all fx units (am I right in thinking that the implication is that some units work on different signal levels???) I'm happy to try the B3 both in-line and in the fx loop, but my preference would be for the B3 in the loop - if it can be done without issue - as it just seems like a better option to me. Yeah, I know that's hardly any justification whatsoever, but I just don't like the idea of having pedals between the bass and amp For information, I have been using a Mark Bass super booster as an amp top pedal in the fx loop for years without issue. All the RH450 manual has to say on the matter of the fx loop is that "[i]This break point can be used as a regular serial effects loop for inserting e.g. modulation effects or other external devices.[/i]" Do the input/output spec figures mean anything in regard to the fx loop signal strength? For example, the RH450 manual says that the pre-amp out is - [i]1/4" Jack, Balanced Output, Max Output, Level = +8dBu[/i] Whereas the B3 manual says of its input - [i]Rated input level -20dBm, Input impedance 1MΩ[/i]

A new side project I have on the go may require the use of some effects on the bass - I don't usually bother with effects live other than a touch of compression and the in built compressor on my amp has that covered! I'm wondering if I was to put a Zoom B3 into the effects loop on my amp (TC RH450) and set the B3 into bypass mode (as it would only be needed for a handful of songs), would this actually mute the output of the amp? Or just bypass the B3 and let the amp work as though there are no effects in the chain? No doubt I can rig it all up later and find out, but I'm sat at my desk at work pondering!