King Tut

I just bought a Geddy Lee Jazz body off of Chris. It was exactly as described except he threw in a BA II bridge instead of a standard thingy!! Checked it was OK first - which - of course - it was. The body was well packaged, and he kept me up to date throughout the transaction. Couldn't have asked for more - thanks dude!! Col

I've just bought a rather super fully loaded Geddy Body from chrisdabass, and I'm wanting to put a black sceratchplate on it. I've checked on Bass Parts resource, and I've seen they do a specific replacement for the geddy. However, I was really looking for something with the pickup cover holes and lower thumbrest holes ala pre 74 ish. Of course - I could always just drill these into a standard scratchplate. Does anyone know if there's any difference in the hole spacing with a geddy guard - or maybe it's just the single screw hole in the middle that makes it specific. Whaddya reckon guys and gals?

Thank you miss penguin it was very helpful - although from the two replies, I'm obviously going to have to experiment with the tightness of the bow! The gig went really well, but we were running a bit behind time, and guess what number I dropped? That's right - the one that used the bow.....coward that I am!!

[quote name='MB1' post='184448' date='Apr 24 2008, 12:26 PM']MB1. What!....Ronnie Jordan? An original AH 250 GP 11(immaculate condition/recently serviced/all 100%)with cover circa 1980s on Ebay sold for £190 Last week only a couple of miles away from me....... still gutted! [/quote] Hee hee - I got one of them!! Awesome!

Thanks Dougal!

I've started using a bow on my NS CR5 and I want to clear a few questions up - quickly if possible as I've got my first gig featuring the bow on one song this friday! First off - how do I know if I've adjusted the bow to the correct amount of tension? Should I loosen the bow off after use? How often should I apply rosin to the bow, and how much? I'm getting a build up of rosin on the strings, should I clean it off and if so, with what? Any other tips would be appreciated dudes!

I stick my strings in a stone polishing tumbler, with some meths in, then tumble them for about 20 mins. I've not been doing it for long so I'm not sure how succesful it'll be long term but it's certainly better than boiling them!

VM Jazz's are great. I'd keep the pups, and change the bridge for a BA or maybe a Gotoh. Having said that, the standard bridge, although basic, is fairly substantial, and made of thicker metal than many older fenders. Once set up - they're pretty good as standard.

I thoroughly agree. i went into a shop about 8 or 9 years ago with £800 to spend on a new US precision. Tried 3 of them and walked out with a mex precision. One of my favourite current gigging basses is also a mex precision. Basses really are a sum of their parts and not about the country of origin - although there are features on US fenders that 'should' make them better - graphite reinforced neck, better sounding pups, more substantial bridge/body through stringing - doesn't always work that way though!

I recently bought an S1 sunburst Jazz off of flanker and I've got to say it's one of the nicest basses I've ever owned. Everything is just perfect finish wise. I love the S1 - gives me the best of both worlds - the neck finish - kind of a plasticky satin is hugely comfortable. I reckon the neck will be pretty stable due to the graphite rods, the bridge is more substantial than those of olde, and it's overall just.....nice. Not sure why they did away with the S1 on jazzes - ideas?

Thanks for all your advice - I shouldn't have dissed Thomann so readily - on the strength of the photo, a new speaker was shipped out this morning FOC! Nice one.

Thanks Stephen - but it was OK when new - it's only started farting recently. I'll ring Thomann next week. I'd really like to put some better speakers in the boxes to be honest - synaesthesia could you recommend something that would work well?

OK here's the speaker showing the surround - looks standard to me And here's the damage The edge of the driver seems to be loose around a lot of the edge, I'm a bit hacked off with Thomann as I've emailed three people there since sunday and no one's responded. The price you pay for cheap gear I suppose!

[quote name='synaesthesia' post='173460' date='Apr 9 2008, 09:40 PM']Post pics of the cab with the grilled removed etc.; and of the driver - damage, surround etc[/quote] OK - I'll stick pics up later this afternoon - cheers

Being a cheapskate, I bought a pair of active subs (the box 12A) from Thomann. One of the drivers has torn and needs replacing. I may get this done under warranty but to be honest - I've lost faith in them a bit. Would it be feasible to replace them with something easily available, that will sound good? I've had a look at the driver, and there's no manufacturers name on it, but it's labelled as 4 ohm, and the spec for the whole speaker rate it at 300W output, so I'm assuming the speaker is rated at least that. I don't really understand about enclosure design, X max and all that, so can anyone recommend a driver to do the job. I was thinking along the lines of an eminence delta 12LF 4 ohm (around £50 - 60 each) - would that be suitable? Suggestions please but can't spend a fortune!

This is quite topical for me - I depped for Richard on friday night as part of "Giles Hedley and the Aviators". It was a real honour to fill this guys shoes - and a top gig to boot. Giles is an awesome blues guitarist/singer/harp player - don't miss him if you get the chance to see him!

OK - well that's a bit of good news for us Traceaholics!!

I emailed these guys the other day asking where I could get a UV tube for my Trace (now found!). Didn't hear a jot back from them.