King Tut

I use a Sennheiser Freeport radio system and use a rechargeable NiMH all the time. I just recharge it after every gig. I make sure to turn the transmitter off between sets. Maplins are currently knocking out 3 200MAh PP3s (NiMH rechargeable) for a tenner. A 'no brainer' if you ask me!

Looking for a 250Klog blend pot for a Fender P that's been converted to PJ. WD have got one but it's a bit pricey when you factor in postage - for what you're getting. Any suggestions? Cheers Col

Try sticking on a new E string - and leaving more string to wind on the post - so it goes right down. I've got an MM5 - superb bass for the dosh if you pick a good un!

Later - not 'ater'!!

I've got al ater one of these and it's awesome - can't believe how good the earlier ones must be if they're supposed to be better! Free bump!

It was me who picked up the RBX 270 - I've had 3 basses from them............ First an Ibanez SR900 - it was mint, listed at £300, I knocked them down to £260. Second was a well used but perfectly good Westone Thunder 1A plus fender hard case for £99. And the best was the RBX 270 for £25. Perfect working order but heavily scratched. I sanded it down and waxed it, shielded the cavity and sold it to a mate for £50. The markup wasn't to make a profit - simply reflected a new set of strings and some labour - and it was a wicked bass. I was so impressed with the quality, I've just bought a BB614. Our local store has a very interesting looking 'Asama' bass - original body shape with a maple neck that is a bit bowed - I'm tempted!! Anyone heard of thes? Anyway - in answer to the original post - yes - you can definately find some bargains in Crack Converters!!

[quote name='bass_in_ya_face' post='64755' date='Sep 24 2007, 02:05 PM']why do I never find anything like that? What do you use to remove the scratches?[/quote] Well I never just removed the scratches - I took all the original finish of with a sander for the flat bits, and sandpaper followed by wire wool for the curvy bits. Then i waxed it mant times with beeswax - probably not the most enduring of finishes but it looks nice. Sold it on today, gonna deliver it later this afternoon - didn't make much on it but at least it's been rescued, and a new player will benefit from it.

Lucky old me picked up a yamaha rbx 270 for £25 in Cash Converters last week. Body was badly scratched - but otherwise fine, so I've rubbed it down and waxed it, shileded the cavity, put on new strings and set it up - it's pretty darn good - even paying full price. It's selling to a mates daughter next week - another one rescuede from the trash!!

You're correct - you don't need to wax the coloured oil finishes. I use furniture polish....shock horror!!

My drummer must be closest to the loudest drummer in the worls...honest! Most smaller gigs I use a nemesis NC210 combo, bigger gigs I use I markbass SA450 into a Nemesis NSP115 which is just awesomely loud. If I'm playing outdoors - I couple it to a Trace 2 x10 - but it's more for show - it's just so loud with the 1 x 15 on it's own....... Nemesis NC210 is good - give it a try!

Looks like basswood to me. CIJ and MIJ do NOT denote the wood! Nothing wrong with basswood per se but an alder bass will inevitably sell for more. Col

I'd say initially - go for a MIJ/CIJ, but............if you find a mexi jazz that does it for you - looks, feels and sounds good - then go for it. A MIJ will always have a better resale price, but you can't beat buying a bass that looks good in the flesh, and by playing it, you know has no deadspots or other issues. If this bass is gonna be your 'one and only' please..... don't trust to a mail order online sale - try before u buy!

If you're getting 'playing noise', then raise your action - no amount of electronic trickery will cure this. As for Mexican Fenders - there's good and bad - I've just bought a (cheap) beat up P bass that plays awesome and sounds pretty darn good - and because it was cheap I don't need to be precious when gigging it. Warwicks are quality basses - as stock - so check your set up before you spend loads of dough!

That's interesting about the 'G' on the 'E' string. My 'Classic 50's' P had exactly the same issue when playing quietly , but at gigs it seemed to dissapear. Now I've played it a bit it's gone - hopefully - for ever! I've probably set it up a bit and tweaked the truss rod - so maybe that's made the difference. I've always associated dead spots with the G string and was quite amazed at myself when I bought the P home, and found it flumped it that most fundamental of positions! But hey - it's 'All Right Now!!' Col

Thanks Andy - Ironically - the £26 quote motivated me to look real hard in my gig bag - and hey.....guess what......£26 quids worth of antenna appeared ha ha!! Col

OK - so I lost the screw in antenna from my freeport belt pack - it's a little screw in jobby. I got in touch with Sennheiser who helpfully gave me the number of their spares department, and the item number. The spares department told me they couldn't sell me the part as i don't have an account - I'd have to go through the retailer. Got in touch with Sound Control, who told me....quote......"It was more trouble than it was worth to order spares" - couldn't believe that so I gave them a piece of my mind. They referred me to Turnkey. Turnkey referred me back to Sound Control. although I never mentioned I'd bought the product from them. They also recommended a company Cimple Solutions. Simple Solutions have been very professional and helpful, however............. ...........I received a quote for the part today at just over £26 inc postage. Now I don't want to seem like a real breadhead - but that sounds like a huge con for a tiny screw in antenna. So my question is................Could I bodge it and just wedge a small length of wire in the hole. Ironically, the transmitter still works without the antenna, although it's range is reduced. Any ideas?

Coolest? Sting Norman Watt - Roy Tony Levin No contest!

Bought a v nice jap fretless jazz off of him - nice fella